Suzy Menkes column

#CNILux Day Two: Rupert Sanderson’s Journey East

The shoe designer talks Suzy Menkes through his brand’s trajectory, his design ethos, and dressing the Duchess

CNILux Day Two: Rupert Sanderson’s Journey East 1

RUPERT SANDERSON's roots lie in the East. Born in Malaysia, like fellow shoe designer Jimmy Choo ("There must be something in the water," he told Suzy Menkes at the Condé Nast Conference this afternoon), he has, as he puts it, "an affinity with this part of the world - it never feels a long way away". Back in Asia to talk shop, he revealed what makes his business tick.

On expansion into Asia

"Maybe ten years into the business, someone came into the shop with his girlfriend. He was very young, and looking for an opportunity to set up a business in Hong Kong. He wrote me an email, and we built a relationship based on old-fashioned trust. He set up our first store in Hong Kong five years ago."

His personal history with Asia

"I was born in Penang, and so was Jimmy Choo, so there must be something in the water! We moved on, but I have come back many times. I have an affinity for this part of the world; it's never felt a long way away. I feel connected to it."

CNILux Day Two: Rupert Sanderson’s Journey East 2

Above, and below: A typically fresh and chic Rupert Sanderson campaign, from the designer's archive

On his Asian partner

"What makes my situation great is that my partner is like me: he's independent and poured his life and soul into the business. There are large distributors to work with, but it's a tough relationship to manage. They have many brands and if it doesn't work, understandably they kick you out."

On his design ethos

"Good design to me is as little design as possible. There's all these things about the simple line and beautiful silhouettes but I always try to take things away from a design and do as little as possible - that's my guiding principle. If it's graceful, I'm happy with it.

On knowing when to stop

"If something isn't working, it's a visceral feeling that it's not right. We could be working for a month or so on one story and it's such a relief when you can kill it and divest yourself of something that's not working."

On dressing the Duchess of Cambridge

"It's a very un-fashion relationship. She keeps a very long-armed distance from the fashion world; she has a few pairs of my shoes and the Palace get in contact occasionally and wants us to send some pairs over. There's no hullabaloo that surrounds it, like normal styling."

Celebrity dressing

"The whole star system and how it gets dressed is so tough when you're up against big brands that have machines set up to do just that. The effort that one has to make to get shoes on the red carpet, and then no-one sees them because the gown covers the shoes! I just thought, 'I'm not going to do it' and the moment we stopped, the stars started wearing my shoes, and then stylists got in touch directly. It was a huge relief that you didn't have to be a apart of the machinery."

CNILux Day Two: Rupert Sanderson’s Journey East 3


On presence in Korea

"We're lucky enough to be in Boon The Shop, and have been for a while. It's an interesting part of the world. The idea that it's going to continue to show an upwards trend - particularly for women buying for themselves - is something I am excited about. We make shoes that are more expensive than our shoes in London, becoming like a form of jewellery on the foot that is intrinsically valuable. This trend across Asia is going to grow, and it's exciting. Our plan now is to look for partners. In Korea it's essential to work with a partner. We're open for business!"

On shoes and sex

"As a man making women's shoes, I have an abstract relationship with the thing I make and I suppose I have a distance from it. The transformational power of a shoe is something I am fascinated with. When someone comes in and you see the magic that happens when they find the shoe they want, it has a power that takes it further than how far I can take it. I love that process. Shoes make women incredibly sexy."

By Scarlett Conlon, reporting live from Day Two of the second Condé Nast International Conference in Seoul

Vogue Recommande


17 rare photos of stars taken by Andy Warhol, from Farah Fawcett to Brooke Shields


The most beautiful locations Luca Guadagnino has captured on film