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  • Location
    Nebraska, USA
  • Cars Owned:
    '74 TR6
    '69 GT6
    '57 MGA

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  1. I dusted off a couple of old physics text books to refresh my memory on this. Using the textbook calculations, it looks like even at 100 mph, the dynamic pressure of the intake air due to forward motion would only be a couple of tenths of a psi above ambient. I'm sure this assumes no flow, so the fact that there is actually significant flow in the induction system would reduce that. While the effect of this pressure increase might possibly be measured, it's unlikely that it could be felt. It would be roughly equivalent to a drop of around 300 feet in altitude, an increase of about 10 m
  2. Yeah, I'm not really counting on any significant ram effect, though it might be fun to try to measure it. Ed
  3. The idea is to provide the coolest air possible to the carbs. There might even be a small ram effect at speed. Ed
  4. Some beautiful engine bays shown on this thread. Here's mine: Ed
  5. Yes, mine (74) were recessed, too. The washers were also distinctive. Some modern reproductions are not the same. Ed
  6. Yes, the mechanisms for the tach and speedometer are essentially identical. Ed
  7. Charlie-- Nice setup. There is typically a number on the face of the speedometer that tells how many revolutions of the input cable will result in one mile on the odometer. A little thought will reveal that the number will also indicate what RPM of the input cable should result in a 60 MPH indication on the speedo. On my TR6 speedo, that number is 1120. My calibration setup was essentially the same as yours. Varying the strength of the magnet changes the slope of the graph that relates input RPM to indicated MPH. Ed
  8. On my oil pump bush, the cross drilled hole is in a reduced diameter area so the orientation of the hole shouldn't matter. Also, when comparing two bushes, it looks like there isn't necessarily a relationship between the hole and the slot in the top face. Ed
  9. How about an MGA/GT? bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-50/IMG_0875a.JPG
  10. I have seen both the tapping screw that Jergus shows, and a machine screw in that location. From a 74 TR6: From a 69 GT6:
  11. If you can't or don't want to deface one of the existing nozzles, just glue or even tape on a little spacer. It will last long enough for the job, then remove it. Ed
  12. One thing to realize about the common terminal mounted battery isolators under discussion is that despite the misleading color of the metal, these are not made of brass, but pot metal with a brass finish. There may be exceptions, but ive never seen one. Ed
  13. Yes, These can be put on either positive or negative side of the battery, but it's better to put it on whichever side is connected to the body (usually negative these days). Ed
  14. If you zomm in, you might make out how it is in my car. The vinyl ends just at the up-curve ovf rpthe door opening. Ed
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