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Whose Fatherland? Which History? Reflections on Timothy Snyder's The Reconstruction of Nations

The Rossa cemetery in what is now Vilnius, Lithuania, is a strange place. The locals know it’s there, but seem to avoid it, which is hardly surprising – the bodies and the histories buried there have little to do with the city’s present status as ethnically cleansed capital of a reconstructed Lithuania. They belong to the cities of Wilno, Vilne, Vil’na and Vil’nia, its Polish, Yiddish, Russian and Belarusian pasts. Last year my wife Helen and I visited Lithuania, in search of some trace of her family who lived there between the wars. We went to Rossa in search of the grave of a distant relative, Lavon Dubiejkowski, a well known architect in Wilno and prominent advocate of an independent Belarus after 1918. It soon became apparent we had little chance of finding it; the cemetery was virtually deserted, and a friendly young man could only point us to a section where important people were buried, including, to my great surprise, the grave of the mother of Marshal Pilsudski. I could not imagine what it was doing in Vilnius, Lithuania; it was only after we returned to Australia that I grasped its full significance. When Jozef Pilsudski, Polish patriot and twice Prime Minister, died in Warsaw in 1935, “his body was placed in the crypt of Wawel Cathedral in Krakow, with the exception of his brain, which he had willed for study to Stefan Batory University [in Wilno], and his heart, which he directed was to be interred in his mother’s grave in the Rasu [Rossa] Cemetery in Vilnius [Wilno]”. The inscription reads matka i serce syna [“mother and heart of son”]. When Frederic Chopin, Polish patriot and pianist extraordinaire, died in Paris in 1849, he was buried at Père Lachaise Cemetery after a lengthy funeral procession