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Modeling Breaking Waves and Studying Amplitude Dependent Behavior

This project implements a method, presented by Longuet-Higgins and Cokelet, for modeling the breaking of ocean waves. Five waves are generated, with the same shaped profile but different amplitudes. Their behavior over time is compared, and it is seen that higher amplitude waves break faster and with a sharper point. Additionally, a variable S is calculated to measure the surfability of these waves. The second smallest wave, 2πa = 0.4, has the greatest value for S.