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Garcilaso and the Uncu: Observations on Dress and Identity among the Inca

Garcilaso de la Vega, as others before and after him, recorded aspects of Andean society pertaining to the use and significance of the garments of the Inca. Garcilaso’s remarks, however, provide particular insight of a personal nature. These highlight aspects of Andean life at a moment of cultural transformation, bringing to the forefront subtle details of the character of Inca ways in contrast to the encroaching Spanish world. In his narrative of the Royal Commentaries of the Incas, recounting the mythological origins of Inca society, traditions from the ancient past and recent history intermingle. According to these histories, the prevailing Inca mythology posited that everyone prior to the Inca had been naked, or wore only leaves and skins. The drawings of Guaman Poma de Ayala, in his Nueva Corónica y Buen Gobierno (1614), depict this transformation from the wearing of garments made of leaves to that of animal pelts, in his presentation of the early ages of man (fig. 1). Such documents attribute the fine art of weaving, and even that of wearing clothes, to the first Inca nobility, specifically Mama Ocllo (fig. 2). Garcilaso claims that she and her husband, Manco Capac, the first Inca king, were responsible for the important civilizing aspect of Inca culture*the wearing of clothes.