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Analysis of Laboratory Generated Sea Waves

Spectral analysis and statistical analysis are two major methods in analyzing the characteristics of ocean waves. In the spectral analysis, both indirect and direct methods are adopted to obtain the wave spectra under 23 sea states generated in the laboratory. Comparing the obtained spectra with the standard one, it is drawn that these two methods almost give the same result and are consistent with the reality. Furthermore, some other useful laws are also summarized at the same time which mainly focus on the spatial variation and relationship with initial wave steepness for the significant wave height, wave period, spectral moment, steepness and spectral width parameter. In the statistical analysis, some relationships about skewness and kurtosis are researched and the exceedance distributions of wave height, crest and trough in the experiment are compared with Rayleigh distribution and GC approximation. Typical wave period distributions and joint distributions are also presented and compared with the theoretical models. where P T is the peak wave period. There are several expressions used as standard forms of the frequency spectrum which can be regarded as having been derived empirically with some theoretical guidance. Pierson and Moskowitz (1964) used the field data and theoretical discoveries of Phillips (1958) to deduce a wind speed dependent spectrum. Later, the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum was extended to including the fetch-limited seas. Hasselmann et al. (1973) published the famous JONSWAP spectrum which received almost instant recognition and became very well known in international literature. An alternative formulation of JONSWAP was proposed by Goda (1988):