How I solved my itchy skin once and for all with a dermatologist-approved plan

A deep dive into dermatology...

04 Mar 2020


It was summer ten years ago when my legs started itching. It was a heat wave, my second year of uni, and my legs were aflame. I assumed I was having an allergic reaction to something, and so dutifully checked my detergent, my skincare regime- the works- but nothing was different. I went to my GP, who almost immediately diagnosed me with folliculitis- an infection of the hair follicles. I was given a course of antibiotics and strict instructions not to shave my legs for a month. In the middle of a heat wave, you can imagine this was excellent news. This was the summer I bought 500 maxi dresses.

Ten years later and I am comfortably convinced I never had folliculitis after all. Because what began that summer has been my reality for the past decade. My legs react very badly to shaving- no matter what moisturiser I throw at it, what cleansing oils or careful shaving techniques I deploy- the end result will still be painfully itchy legs. Summers are, understandably, a blast.

The fact is, I got complacent with it- assumed itchy legs and shaving rash were my new normal and, much like the way I have stuck with the same skin regime for a decade, I never altered my hair removal technique- assuming waxing would have much the same effect. But this year-on the tenth anniversary of ‘itchy-leg-summer’ I decided a decade of inaction was ridiculous. I went into full-on investigation mode.

The first person I spoke to was Paula Begoun, founder of Paula’s Choice; a brand which has established itself on unbiased and thorough approach to skincare, steeped in Paula’s history with consumer advocacy.

So, what causes itchy, rash-prone skin like mine?

Rashes from shaving are often caused by the skincare products you are using on your legs. If you are scrubbing your legs, especially with loofahs or salt scrubs or any other types of manual scrubbing, stop doing so, as it causes irritation and rashes even if you don’t shave,” she says, “Skin can become even more inflamed if the body care products you use contain any fragrance, including natural fragrances like essential oils. It’s very possible that shaving your legs isn’t causing the rashes but the skin care products you use are.”

Noted. A quick inspection of my skin regime shows fragrance-free, innocent-seeming products, but I make a mental note to not scrub my legs either.

It does make me question: should I be shaving at all? Paula runs me through the alternatives.

“Epilating is an option as it works fast and can last for several days but for some people it’s painful and this method isn’t as permanent or even semi-permanent (depends on how much hair you have and its thickness) as the claims make it sound. To use it effectively on a regular basis you have to have some hair length for the tweezers in the device to grab on to the hair and pull it out. This means you have to tolerate some amount of hair regrowth before you use it again, a practice not everyone likes when their goal is to always have bare legs.”

I agree, thinking back to my maxi-dress summer of hairy legs and- no matter what patriarchal pressure may have contributed to my viewpoint- how much I do not like leaving my legs au natural… What about waxing? I already get my bikini line done, but have always demurred from my legs due to cost and upkeep.

“Waxing is the same as epilating,” Paula confirms, “ It just pulls the hair out from the root in a different manner and the same issues apply, although waxing is a messier process.”

I decide that perhaps I am just shaving wrong- and ask Paula’s help. She tells me there is actually not really a “wrong” way to shave; so long as you make sure to avoid using a blunt razor and any shave product with a fragrance. She does give me one great hack for shaving my legs though; “a non-fragranced hair conditioner is actually a great shave product.” Genius.

Armed with great advice, I decided to get my skin checked out by a dermatologist- a long overdue appointment. I head to see Dr Stefanie Williams, an award-laden dermatologist and medical director of the prestigious Eudelo Clinic. She is famous for her in-depth knowledge of skin biology.

At my consultation, we go through the history of my skin- early childhood brushes with eczema, my (admirable, it turns out)- lifelong use of Aqueous Cream over bar soap (which Paula Begoun confirms is “drying and often irritating”) and my decade of itchy skin- localised entirely on my legs. Dr Williams agrees that the specificity of this affecting only my legs points to shaving as the direct cause.

A look at my legs is all she needs to confirm that I don’t- and didn’t- have folliculitis. Then, she runs a wooden stick gently along the skin on my arm and has an “aha!” moment. I’m confused - and then fascinated.

“I think you have dermatographia,” she exclaims- far too cheerfully for someone diagnosing me with something. Dermatographia- it turns out- is a rare condition (around 5% of people have it) wherein minor abrasions on the skin become major events. Running a wooden stick across my arm, for example, left a bright-white mark that lasted several minutes.

“That’s normal, no?” I ask, to which Dr Williams vehemently shakes her head.

What my skin type does, then, is react badly to any scratch, knock, bump or- of course- aggressive “mechanical abrasion” ie shaving; with an almost allergic reaction. My skin is basically that one person you know who hates hugs, who freaks out when you touch them. She prescribes me antihistamines to take regularly - or at least around the time I am shaving- to combat this.

She also alerts me to the fact my skin reacts with pseudofolliculitis; an inflammation of the hair follicles which is caused by - literally- a close shave. The closer you get to the skin when you shave, the more likely this is. Unlike folliculitis, this is not caused by infection, but by trapped hairs, something that is more common in people with curly hair like mine and, fascinatingly, with a specific type of keratin in the hair (K6HF). She gives me an AHA Body lotion (meaning it contains Glycolic Alpha Hydroxy Acid). It sounds familiar- and I realise that Paula had also recommended the same treatment. What Dr Williams gives me is an Exuviance Retexturing Treatment which I am told to put on before shaving- but not directly afterwards.

Dr Williams’ ultimate recommendation is that I get laser treatment- something that will remove completely the mechanical abrasions currently traumatising my skin. I earmark that for the future- knowing its not in my budget right now- but feel grateful that a more permanent solution exists in the pipeline. I leave lighter and hopeful about my skin’s future happiness.

For the present, she gives me great shaving tips; to shave in the direction of hair growth, avoid stretching the skin, to use single blades and shave less regularly, as well as to use Cetaphil directly after shaving; a treatment commonly used for eczema sufferers.

I add this to my groaning bag of products both Dr Williams and Paula have recommended. My skincare now takes in a full La Roche Posay regime directly created to target itchy skin. I have started washing with a Lipikar Syndet AP + Shower gel- a Lipid replenishing anti-irritation and anti-scratching cream wash, with Lipikar Huile Lavant-an anti-irritation cleansing oil, finishing off with Cicaplast Baume B5- soothing repair balm, Cetaphil or my new AHA body lotion for a day I haven’t shaved.

The results are promising- with noticeably less itching and smoother, less aggravated skin. I’m more considered in my shaving and more mindful of what I’m putting on my skin at all times. Until my wallet stretches to a skin-fixing laser attack, I feel armed and ready to combat the genetic assault my skin endures. Because beyond any skin regime or product, what I now have is a thorough understanding of my skin and its unique peculiarities. I know it better now- what it needs, what it hates, why it gets angry. As ever, knowledge is power, and I only wish I’d gained it ten years ago.