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Found 63 results

  1. I recently got a 1996 Mazda 626 on the cheap, and it's got some quirks I'm trying to track down. When you first start it in the morning, the car idles at 2k until it gets to temperature, where it settles down at 800 RPM. It also shifts a bit hard when cold, and the first time it hits 25 mph after a cold start, the revs jump up to 5k before the car shifts and continues forward (the car has to sit for 5 hours or so before it's reproducible) I haven't checked much other than fluid levels so far, to make sure the transmission wasn't running dry or something. I've repaired all my vehicles in the past, but as they've been all motorcycles, I'm not entirely sure where I should start. I'm hoping the high idle is just a vacuum leak somewhere, but I've heard some cars idle high when cold by design, which sounds really odd.
  2. Hi All, New here as I just inherited my brothers old I4 4 speed 626, still going strong with 534,000kms on it When I first got the car off him, I drove it home, 2 hours on the highway and thought it was odd that it was sitting 4,000rpm on the freeway. Some investigation last night showed that in 'D' it will stay stuck in 3rd gear and won't really do anything else. We also discovered that the 'L (1)' position on the shifter allows the car to shift from first to second and shifting it from that into '(S) 2' position allows it to go into third and then fourth. If you put it back in drive, it will go bezerk and downshift into 3rd after a moment. We tried turning the hold function on and off but it has no affect on what happens. Has anyone ever heard or something weird like this happening or know what might be causing it?
  3. Hi I was driving my 1995 autotrans 2.0L Mazda 626 around and it was working fine , I stopped to do some thinkgs then started it and now it will only drive slowly in forward gears if you start off yo can maybe get it up to 30kph usually it just crawls, revers works fine so i dont think it is the tourque converter after getting the codes off it indicates voltage out of range on VSS any ideas what would stopp the car driving in forward gears that way?
  5. I had my 1995 626 go south yesterday, Driving fine all day then I parked it and now I have reverse working all forward gears it will move slowly and reves high moving about 30 kph max any idea what came apart in the trans?
  8. Hey guys. I Just bought my first Mazda. Its 626LX V6 AT with just 61,000 KM (39,000 Miles). One owner since new. Everything is working good, but I know that tranny on them is weak and I want to keep it in a good shape as long as it possible. Im not sure if the transmission fluid was changed on this car, and I have two options now: 1. Change transmission fluid as soon as it possible at dealership. Or 2. I can add some good additives of LubeGuard like this one Additive. What you can advise me to make my tranny shift smoother. I also think that I have to change a spark plugs, cause I have just really little vibration at idle. I think its probably old spark plugs (15 y.o.) or the spark wires. I hope you can advise me what to do first, and what I should really do or not. Here are some pics of it .
  9. I bought a 1994 Mazda 626 2L 4-Cylinder 5 Speed Manual about 6 months ago. Recently I've noticed the engine revving by itself between 500 and 2500 RPMs when I engage the clutch and brakes. Today I tried to drive and have lost all clutch pressure. The fluid resevoir is full and doesn't appear to be leaking. The car has stopped revving by itself since the clutch pressure has disappeared. However, the car will stall in first gear if the clutch is engaged. Pumping the clutch appears to restore some pressure until it is again engaged to shift. I've never had this problem before. Can somebody please help! The clutch had good pressure and was halfway up just yesterday.
  10. I'm working on a 98 Mazda 626 GF 2L with an automatic transmission. While I'm used to driving manuals, I would say that the amount of vibration when sitting stopped in drive with the brake on seems excessive. The excess vibration goes away when put in neutral. I also noticed that when first taking off or in certain types of acceleration it feels mushy, like there is a lack of power until suddenly I get a solid feeling. All this is in addition to a rough but stable idle when in park. The tranny fluid is pretty old and dark ( it hasn't been changed for five years and about 80,000 kilometers ), however it's not dirty - there is no grime or particles in the fluid and there is no burnt smell ( I asked more than one person to smell it ). Also, the gears engage immediately without hesitation when I shift it into drive or reverse. Due to this I don't think it's the clutches. While I have little exp. with automatics, my gut feeling is that the torque converter maybe isn't working as efficiently as it should and isn't locking as soon as it should. I think when it finally feels solid and powerful that is the torque converter locking. If I'm correct about the nature of the problem, could changing the old fluid out and adding something like lucas transmission fix improve the situation? Or do those types of products only help with worn clutches? If that won't help, how big of a job is it to change a torque converter and is it an expensive part? EDIT Another thing to consider, could this just be a symptom of problems with the engine idle? When in park and I press hard on the gas the engine seems to wobble / shake and if I go to WOT it's very noticeable and I'll even hear a belt slip for a moment.
  11. Totally new to the forum although I've learned a great deal about my Mazda from you guys over the last few years. I do most of my own work and consider myself fairly knowledgeable about the vehicles I maintain (1955 Chevy 3100; '71 Ford F-100; '95 Olds Cutlass Cruiser; '91 Chevy Cavalier). I am NOT trained or certified as a mechanic, and I have never rebuilt a transmission. I HAVE replaced a transmission in the Mazda before so I don't need any guidance about removal and/or installation....it just takes a lot of time, energy, and the right tools. At this point, I'm no longer seeking advice about what's wrong with the transmission. I replaced the original several months ago with a used one. Ran great for a while and then began to make a whirling/wizzing noise in the valve body. Now, it no longer shifts in any sensible pattern from one gear to the next. I have taken it to a couple of transmission shops who "think" that the internal filter is clogged and causing pressure problems throughout the tranny. Before that, I drained and replaced the fluid twice (installing new filters each time) which gave no improvement. I also added a cooler. The price I'm being quoted in this area for a rebuild is between $3,300 and $3,600. I don't have the money and I need to get the car back on the road. The Raleigh Transtar location has a Master Rebuild Kit for $194. This, I can afford....along with my time and energy. I have searched the forum and haven't found any topic directly related to rebuilding this particular transmission. I've read here and there that it's a very difficult job and not something to consider lightly. But, I really don't have anything to lose by trying (other than $194 for the kit and cost of incidentals). I still have the old transmission and I plan to rebuild that one on the bench. I would like to know if any of you can recommend 1) a good manual to use, 2) the particular tools I may need, and 3) any additional advice about unforeseen challenges. For instance, the last shop I spoke with stated that the valves would need to be bored. Is that REALLY necessary?
  12. Hello all!! Need some help. My Daughter just bought a used car from a friend. Had CEL on but otherwise seems to run well. 2000 w/167,000 miles on it. I took it to work to run it through it's paces and once warm, started to slip and want to shift up and down at highway speeds (65-70). Once I slowed to city traffic, wanted to down shift, "clunk" and shift hard at 25-45 mph. Fluids are good and O/D light not on. I had O'reilly pull the CEL code(s) and it was P1569 -VTCS Solenoid Valve Circuit Low Input and also said see P0661. The fresh air intake hose is torn as well. They may be unrelated. Any ideas?? Leaving for college soon and dont want to give her my Jeep!! Please and thanks for the help!
  13. I have just bought a 626 lx 2.0L, manual. First time I saw the car and tested it, the clutch fell to the floor when stepped and I had to find a way to pull it back up after every shift but the gear shifted alright. Now that I paid for it and brought it home to fix up, the only way to move the car is when I pick a gear before starting the car. That way, am able to move but on same gear. If I try shifting it wont work and it would kill the engine if i slowed down or used the breaks. So its a one gear per session car (sounds funny from a certain angle. Lol). I bleeded the whole clutch line replaced the slave, the master seems fine, changed part of the line just in case it had breaks but its still same. Am not sure if the transmission fluid could be an issue but I checked around the transmission where the label said "oil" and a F and L level indicator. Am not able to tell if that is where the transmission fluid is. And if I could please be assisted with what type of transmission fluid is best for my car. please help. I just wanna move the car.
  14. 2002 Mazda 626, 2.0L 4-cyl, Automatic Transmission: CD4E Current symptoms: O/D Off Light flashing - giving code P0731 Delayed shift between 1st and 2nd Shifts hard between 1st and 2nd Transmission fluid light brown I don't smell any burning but a friend said he smelt a slight burnt smell in the transmission fluid I just bought this car, it has 84K miles. I have no idea if the fluid has even been changed. I talked to 3 shops, all 3 said I needed a rebuild and quoted costs ranging from $2,600 to $3,300. None seem to think it's possible for any other issue to be causing my problem (i.e. bad fluid, bad sensor, etc.) What should I do? 1) Drain fluid? 2) Flush fluid? 3) Can you check any sensors? 4) just take it to the shop and let them rebuild it? 5) Purchase a remanufactured one and have the shop install it (I found a remanufactured that has a 5 year warranty for about $1,300) 6) Anything else? Basically, I want to know if there's anything I can do other than just taking it to the shop and letting them rebuild it. I want to be sure that's the problem before I spend all that money. Thanks a ton!!!!
  15. 99 ATX We had some stalling issues while the motor is warm and read a couple threads yesterday that suggested adding an additional battery ground. I did this last night and it improved the situation. The car still idles very low, and tends to stall in reverse, but is still improved. Also, I've posted that my gauge cluster is out despite fuses being okay. So we decided it was running well enough to go around the block and what was discovered is that it won't shift to second, unless I manually dropped it down. Since we the motor/trans is new to the car I am thinking that it is likely something that we didn't reconnect properly. Or even wondering if it is the ECU. Ours is from a 99 and the motor/trans I believe may be an 00, not sure if anything changed between these years. Car revs fine, new fluid, filled properly. I feel like/hoping the problem is not with the transmission itself and feel like I'm missing something else with it. Read some threads and here is where I'm thinking I should start May be the transaxle range switch with a bad/loose connection. "If it's not the ATF or solenoids it's going to be worn friction material at least in terms of internal issues. I would look into testing the MAF/VAF, TPS, and O2 first as they are what primarily control the shift points in the automatics (DJDevon3)." Any other ideas????
  16. Hello everyone, this is my first post, but I've been stalking around for the past month or so. I have a 2002 Mazda 626 manual 2.5L V6 and as with many others find it frustrating to drive on the highway.. 65mph at ~3000rpms. After looking around I have seen that you can quite easily swap out the 5th gears to improve the gear ratio resulting in lower rpms, which is what I am looking to do. However, in the few months of searching the internet I haven't found a cut and dry answer on what vehicle/transmissions are compatible with my 2002 626. I know the answer may be out there so if I have missed it please feel free to direct me to it. If not any, information you guys can provide would be greatly appreciated and let me know if there is any other information that would be helpful. Thanks in advance, Zach
  17. Hey everyone, My name is John and I have a 2000 626 4-cyl, auto that has been getting sketchy with me when starting. In Park, I turn the key and the dash lights come on and the bell noise sounds, but nothing from the engine. I shimmy the key a bit, press down on the brake and push the shift forward as much as possible (still in Park obviously) and then it starts up fine. Sometimes it takes 2-3 tries, sometimes more. My obvious worry is that one of these days it won't start at all and I'll be screwed. A friend of mine told me that he thinks it's a switch that tells the car that it is in Park and it's safe for the car to start, that has worn down. Another friend told me to look up "transmission interlock start switch" but I haven't had much luck with any results matching my situation. I am very ignorant on car technical stuff, so bear with me. I also don't have a garage or the tools/know-how to do much myself. I just want to get an idea of what I should tell my mechanic because (of course) every time I've brought it to them, the problem disappeared. Any insights would be greatly appreciated. I often drive long distances for gigs (I'm a musician) and I don't want to get stranded far away, late at night. My wife will kill me Cheers-- Uncle Eb/John
  18. So i drive a 2002 2.0L 4CYL AUTO. Yes it has the world class ford transmission... The guys i bought it from said it would go 200k (has 130,000) witch i soon found out was a lie after doing some research about this tranmission. My biggest problems with it are slipping anf overheating. I live in wisconsin so during the cold winter it usually doesnt have an overheating problem but in the summer it burns i can smell it and it slips. One thing that pisses me off is that the transmission filter is in the middle of the transmission witch I dont want to pull it all apart to change it. Read that again and try saying it wasnt a stupid idea. i paid $2500 for the car im not going to put the same value of the car into fixing it... Besides that I love my 626 cloth interior (I prefer leather) but nothing is ripped or stained but the dash was pulling apart at the crease by the heat controls no biggy. This car is 100% rust free. One thing i dont hate more is rusty cars... there ugly and loose value fast! If anyone has any ideas for a few transmission fixes or clever ideas let me know! I much appriciate it!
  19. Currently looking to buy a used transmission to replace the original in my 2000 626. Automatic transmission, 2.0L engine, 4cyl. Please let me know if you're selling, or know of someone who is! I really need my car back to commute to school :/
  20. So I just bought this 2000 626 for $900 with leather seats, clean engine, clean clean underbody, good clearcoat, no rust, no dents, A/C working very well, but a known issue with the transmission. It would jump out of gear going above 45 mph, and the O/D would start flashing as well eventually. After driving for 3 weeks, the issue with it jumping out of gear at the lower speeds (2nd and 3rd gears) started to become more commonplace. 142K miles. I have a code reader and it spit out 0708. Intensive google search and youtube videos yielded a common result of simply replacing the neutral safety switch. It cost me $20 brand new on amazon and it took me all of 15 minutes to completely install it (just had to lift up the air filter compartment to give me enough room to unbolt the old switch and put the new one in it's place. If you do this, make sure to put your car in neutral first and pull up the parking brake. The new units will come set to the neutral position. The transmission is good as new. The old boy who sold me the car said he took it to a trans shop and they said the O/D solenoid would need to be changed out (i.e., you're essentially going to do a rebuild, costing thousands). Oh and I changed out my back brakes shoes and one of the drums for $36 in parts (Midas wanted $650, no lie). So $56 later, I have a $900 car that is worth about $3,100 (NADA Retail clean).
  21. Transmission fluid appears to be percolating at the top of the pan thru the overflow valve. Why is this happening? My fluid level is not high. if anything it is low. Dipstick says check fluid in park, idle and hot. Is there a way to stop this leak.
  22. So my car seems to stutter around 40 mph and\or 2000 rpms. It feels like it's trying shift, loses about 500 rpms for a second abd then goes back to normal. Occasionally it slams gears. The mechanic looked at it and said I have a bad shift cable, but that he can't guarantee its my only problem. What are the chances that my symptoms are explained by the shift cable?
  23. I have a 1999 Mazda Automatic and this evening on my way home I shifted from 2nd gear into drive and found that the RPMs continued to rev. I then tried to shift through the other gears and even into neutral and reverse but although the shifter moved the car stayed in its current gear. I wasn't thinking and turned off the car when I had made it home and now it is unable to start again because i can't get the car into park. Any suggestions on the possible cause and or solutions? Thanks!
  24. ihave a 1999 car with a 2006 transmission. my husband is trying to replace the transmission filter but cant find it. does anyone know where this filter is located? and will the 1999 filter fit? i bought the filter not knowing the transmission had been rreplaced. the gasket looks the same. can anyone help? tia lisa
  25. The O/D OFF sign keeps on flashing on my dashboard right from the start of the engine. Any possible Solution? Thanks experts.
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