Food // Restaurants

What's New: Cafe Claude now in Cow Hollow

Franck LeClerc has once again channeled Paris to open his latest French restaurant in San Francisco: A swanky Cow Hollow outpost of Cafe Claude.

LeClerc has built a mini-empire of sorts on Claude Lane, an otherwise nondescript alley just east of Union Square. There, he's parlayed the success of a single restaurant - the first Cafe Claude - into a bustling thoroughfare of restaurants and art galleries, including the critically acclaimed Gitane.

Located off the main Fillmore strip of bars that includes Balboa Cafe, the new Cafe Claude embraces a throwback, plush atmosphere - a notable contrast to the original. The brooding interior is decked out in hand-picked vintage light fixtures, tin ceilings, dark woods and velvet fabrics. A new chef, Doug DeGeeter, is aboard; he's created a menu that leans heavily on classics - steak tartare ($14/$17), escargots ($11), nicoise salad ($23). A short bar looks over the dining room, and even though no hard liquor is involved, bar manager Carlos Yturria offers five low-alcohol aperitif cocktails. Wine and beer are also offered.

The second Cafe Claude may be the first time that LeClerc has left his Claude Lane sanctuary, but it won't be the last. He's currently working on yet another French restaurant: Gaspar Brasserie, located in the Galleria Park Hotel.

Cafe Claude: 2120 Greenwich St., near Fillmore Street, San Francisco. (415) 375-9550 or Dinner Tue-Sun. Reservations accepted.