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  1. Today
  2. I finally after 6 months installed my anti lift/caster correction kit on the BL5, WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Also replace the leaking hydraulic diff cradle bush and its partner on the otherside with a whiteline positive retention kit and am yet to go row some gears. Now to get it retuned and go for that 12sec pass
  3. Changed my power steering fluid. Well, more accurately, I sucked out the fluid and poured some new atf in, cycled it, sucked it out, new stuff in etc etc so it was no longer a black sludge, and is now a semi translucent Reddy brown. Going to do it again in another week or so, just going to run that stuff to loosen up all the crap while chasing out other rattles. Car is running ok, need to get it tuned. Then a write up of the saga that has been this "she'll be done by Christmas" engine build that is now nearly 2 years overdue.
  4. I found the Philips + whatever bulbs lasted for longer than I owned the car.
  5. Ok haven’t spent much time around the car and build lately but repost from the 500kw build. Kind of want it done mid October or I’ll run into other things I need to get sorted. Wiseco boostline rods are top of list, as well triangles are structurally awesome (without the O) Plus rated to 2000hp so no chance they will bend or break. RCM 12/14mm studs means no head modification and just tapping the block out. Since that is the only soft metal there is no reason to go 14mm as s99 steel should not stretch unless the engine s***s itself. I was going ARP but the prices are way too high for the 11mm let alone anything bigger. More I’ve seen from overseas that pinning and line honing the crank journals is a must. EFR7163 is here and needs to be ceramic coated then heat wrapped in alloy ceramic alloy sandwich heat shield. Has the dual port turbosmart wastegate actuator all fitted. GFB makes a vent to atmosphere valve for the EFR now so can keep the pssh noises. Thinking to that I will keep the EFR boost solenoid. Exhaust needs a bit or work still to make it straight through not quad tipped. Even though it is titanium smaller AdrenalinR one naught sound better. Luckly I don’t have to drive to work as that pitch stop still sounds like s*** vibrating the firewall. Intercooler is still a big unknown. Really want to go water cooler and no bonnet scoop 😱🤬 yes yes, special place in hell awaits I know.
  6. This weekend my dash lights for both the battery and the handbrake were lit up on the dash (randomly). After awhile the speedo cluster started to flash in 3's. Orange ring around cluster then the speedo cluster then off altogether. This repeated in 3's for 4-5 mins while idling until the entire dash died. Eventually while driving from a car park the car lost power to the fuel pump so it wouldn't drive, it idled strangely... when I turned the car off it wouldn't start again. Dead as dead. The battery is fairly new. This wasn't a gradual thing it all happened in one day. My guess is the alternator isn't charging correctly but keen to see if anyone else has experienced this issue and has some ideas. (I've checked earth straps) I haven't tried to start on jumper leads yet incase it's potentially a bigger issue. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  7. If they are standard filament bulbs and are after a simple upgrade, look for some quality Hella/Narva or other branded + output bulbs. Normally in like +120% or +150% etc etc. Bear in mind, this comes at the expense of bulb life If they're the factory HID units, boon's suggestion should have you covered. Side note, @boon when you went to Philips bulbs, did you stay with the OE 4300k colour or venture out for something different? Another thought, on the right hand side lower dash, to the right of the ignition barrel is a little switch panel. On that panel there could be a little scroll wheel numbered 0 through to 5. This is the headlight level adjuster, used to lower the headlight aim based on vehicle load, when you're towing, full boot, 5 passengers etc. If your car is empty (light) the scroll wheel should be on 0, if you're car is fully loaded (heavy), scroll the number up as you need. This lowers your headlights as to not blind oncoming cars when you have a full load (which lowers the rear of your car causing headlights to aim abnormally higher thus blinding)
  8. New tyres, balanced and aligned. Still got a vibration, and actually I think its still lacking power.
  9. Yesterday
  10. Ahh was it that way around, my bad, knew it was a cheapo way to change style.
  11. boon

    Light upgrades

    Best bet is to get some good quality high-output HID bulbs and give the headlight lenses a good polish. I'm running genuine Philips bulbs in mine and they're pretty good.
  12. They have EL headers. They are a budget option for getting an EL header if you want to do that, because the flange location matches a turbo up-pipe.
  13. Yep and love it! Wish I had bought one of these first time around...
  14. Last week
  15. Joker

    Light upgrades

    arent they HID's? upgrade?
  17. You could remove the trim around the bottom of the windscreen under the plastic trim and check you don’t have any crap built up, I’m pretty sure that’s where the air feeds into the filter?
  18. Dirty coil most likely. Some model years in some markets didn't actually come with a filter from factory so would have got pretty bad before one was put in. Worth checking the drain is free-flowing too. The line comes out above the rear bush on the front control arm. We get the same with home/commercial aircons during the seasonal switchover when people run them on auto where they jump between heating and cooling modes. As the coil dries off it can have a musty smell. Once cooling again it's fine.
  19. Sorry full tard moment here For some reason thought rev d was all 3rd gen lol. If all suspension is the same from 99-03 then yes only top hats on the front need to be changed. One thing i did also notice is the BL/BP front inserts are a little longer then the BE/BH ones. My BE/BH ones have no thread showing at the bottom perch so basically as high as they can go and are not quite tucking tire on a 225/45 17 tire (10mm off the guard). The rears were exactly the same as my old yellowspeed though. Although the yellowspeeds arent known to go very low. Again sorry for the confusion
  20. 2007 Legacy wagon NZ new. Every since I've had it, when you turn the a/c off so it's only running the fan, after a minute or so it starts smelling like a wet dog. Turn the a/c back on and it goes away, turn it off again and the smell comes back. Smell lingers for about 5 minutes. I pulled the glove-box out and pulled out the cabin filter, which wasn't excessively bad, but far from new. Put a brand new filter in, but it didn't change the wet dog smell. So not sure what to try next.
  21. Hey guys, wanting to get some brighter lights or a extra lights for night driving. Anything not too expensive and and too hard to install. Have a subaru legacy 2005. Cheers
  22. No difference in suspension set-up between revs A-E.
  23. Did you go through with the purchase? I have a 2008 Legacy GT and its a good car.
  24. Its my long distance GT car for now. Looking forward to doing a few roadtrips in my native South Island
  25. @JordanfromNZ , the guy with the bh5 revd which he has named as Arwen and does questionable activities with in the back seats
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