Master gardening: Dealing with drought

Tim Abbey

Normally, I don’t like to repeat myself in a column, but due to the weather we have had this year, I felt I should.

This past summer was hot and in most locations, very dry. With prolonged dry soil conditions, plants lose the fine root hairs that are used to extract water and minerals. Broadleaf or needled evergreens may be stressed under these conditions as we go into winter. Very cold temperatures, particularly accompanied by winds, can damage these plants.

Why is Lake Redman so low?

Because of the frozen soil and the extra drying effect of the wind, broadleaf evergreens (such as holly, rhododendron, azaleas, and Japanese andromeda) and needled evergreens (including fir, spruce, and pine) lose moisture through the leaves that cannot be replaced. This kills the foliage, causing it to turn brown. Without a full complement of root hairs, these plants will be even more susceptible to winter desiccation.

This damage becomes much more noticeable in the spring as landscape plants start to actively grow.

How can you prevent this from happening? In many situations, you cannot.

Masterful Gardening: Show your evergreens some love

However, there are some steps you can take to try to minimize the damage. If you have any of these plants in your landscape, remember to water them this fall, particularly if we continue to stay dry. This is the greatest help you can provide for them. This is especially true if the plants were put in during late summer or fall.

Newly transplanted plants do not have a complete root system so are at a disadvantage trying to extract water from the soil.  Monitor soil moisture and if necessary continue watering into December. Also, the proper application of mulch around these plants helps prevent the soil from drying out. You can put up wind breaks made out of burlap or plastic to decrease the effect of any prevailing winds.

Masterful Gardening: Provide winter wildlife necessities in the landscape

The dormant season, particularly as we get close to spring, is a great time to prune deciduous trees, and shrubs that bloom on new growth. There are a number of reasons this time is so appropriate. I find that it is easier to see the “form” of a woody plant when there are no leaves. Branches that are damaged or starting to cross, or if co-dominate leaders are present, are all visible and can be removed.

Since woody plants are dormant, the wound caused by pruning isn’t as stressful to the plant as it might be during a dry growing season. Also, diseases and insects that take advantage of pruning wounds are not active at this time. Finally, I think it is a great excuse to get back outside and stay active in your landscape.

Master Gardening: Don't miss out on beautiful fall foliage

You can prune small branches with hand-held pruners. A small saw can also be used for these removals. Branches that are out of reach can be addressed by using a pole pruner. Larger limbs require a larger hand-held saw or chainsaw. I know I am lecturing, but use eye protection when you are pruning, and if you are using a chainsaw, ear protection and protective chaps are also a necessity.

If the tree is tall, or there is a lot of work that needs to be done, an ISA (International Society of Arboriculture) Certified Arborist would be a good choice to do the job.


Master Gardening: When is the soil ready to work?