Hats off to Matt Moran



This was published 17 years ago

Hats off to Matt Moran

Chef Matt Moran spent a year trying to reinstate his Circular Quay fine diner Aria as one of Sydney's top eateries. Last night, in front of a documentary crew that has followed every step of his comeback, he learned his efforts had paid off.

Moran's restaurant was downgraded to a one-hat establishment in last year's Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide. Last night it was returned to two-hat status, providing scenes of jubilation for the cameras.

A delighted Moran said: "It's been a f--- of a lot of hard work and I'm just so glad. I've just spoken to the guys and they're ecstatic. There's going to be a few drinks tonight."

Other chefs had less to celebrate at the Opera House launch of the 2005 guide. An unprecedented 20 Sydney restaurants were downgraded with former two-hat restaurants Forty One, Lucio's, Otto, Sailors Thai and Salt all slipping to a one-hat rating.

Judges said the restaurants were victims of increased competition and a "certain complacency" that was particularly noticeable in the two-hat category.


There was better news for Bilson's, Flying Fish and Omega, which each received two chef's hats on debut. Aqua Dining, Fish Face, Cruise, Four in Hand, Galileo, Liquidity, Lotus, Moog Wine + Food, Mosaic, Mu Shu and Restaurant Atelier all attained the one-hat ranking.

Among those that lost out were former one-hatters Alio, Cottage Point Inn, Elio, harbourkitchen & bar, Prime, Shun Tak Inn and Wasavie.

"The competition is getting harder as the restaurants in Sydney get better," said the guide's co-editor, Matthew Evans. "They have to improve to stay up with their peers."

The list of Sydney's most exclusive food temples remained largely unchanged. Quay, est, Marque, Rockpool and Tetsuya's hung onto their three hats although former three-hatter Claude's was unscored due to the recent departure of chef and owner Tim Pak Poy.

Quay was voted restaurant of the year and Brent Savage from Moog Wine + Food won the inaugural chef of the year. Peter Conistis's Omega won best new restaurant and Canberra's Waters Edge took out the award for best regional restaurant.

Evans praised Moran's efforts to reinvigorate Aria. "We know it [his downgrading] had a serious impact on him. He has lifted from 12 months ago, but the level he has reached is starting to eclipse some of his former peers in the two-hat category."

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