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Moderates and radicals

Dr Philip Norrie is a plain speaking man—a human clotbuster for all killjoys. One of some 150 practising doctors in Australia who have established vineyards, a tradition that began with the first white settlers, his mission is to preach about the therapeutic effects of wine drinking—in moderation, of course—whenever he can. In this case, the setting was the burnished oak panelling and marble colonnades of Australia House, where a packed assembly of wine buffs, foodies, and journalists, unable to resist a legitimate excuse to drink Australian wine for free, had gathered to hear the evidence.

”Wine is like Draino [an agent widely used in Australia to unblock …