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Imperial Feedback: Food and the French Culinary Legacy of Empire

The French colonial culinary experience mirrors that of other major colonial powers. Globalization of the food industry and market linkages gave formal and informal empire more significance than ever before at the beginning of the twentieth century. Colonial settler regimes producing basic foodstuffs readily available in Europe, such as meat and wine, or factory-farmed ingredients for industrial food products like peanut oil and palm oil, supplanted the older colonial system of cultivation of exotic goods. The European market for these goods grew rapidly; advances in shipping and refrigeration intensified flows of food. Imports from extra-European sources substituted for agricultural produce previously grown domestically. Producers of food on the Continent found themselves competing with goods produced in white-settler dominated colonies or former colonies with large European settlement populations. Cheap food from distant colonial sources could bring short-term benefits to consumers, but it could also lead to competition that had long-term consequences for domestic producers. The French response to this vast marketplace with all its anxieties about vulnerability and homogenization was to embrace the local, the connection with place and history as an antidote. They embraced terroir. Terroir is understood as the holistic combination of soil, climate, topography, and the ‘‘soul’’ of the cultivator that is encoded in the system of appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC). The French promoted wines, cheeses, and other agricultural products as rooted in soil and history and offering a genuine experience of France. Wine consumption, in particular, was seen as providing natural access to an authentic, organic France regionally variegated by terroir. It became an anthropological code for ‘‘Frenchness,’’ and