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Chocolate and Corn Flour: History, Race, and Place in the Making of "Black" Mexico (review)

history of Spain and Andean colonial institutions. Readers may appreciate these presentations, though they contain little not found in other sources. The author frames her data into three theoretical perspectives. One is that Moquegua, 1,200 km from the center of viceregal power in Lima, was in a peripheral frontier. Politically that was true, but economically Moquegua had a huge advantage over the vinicultural valleys lying farther north in the Majes, Sihuas and other valleys of the Arequipa region and those still farther north around Ica and Nazca. Not only was Moquegua closer to Potosí—then South American’s largest city in the seventeenth century—but it also enjoyed a major advantage in transportation. Llama-herding folk on the northern altiplano, had old ties of reciprocity with Moquegua and they provided the multitude of pack animals needed to take liquid goods to the Villa Imperial of Potosí, Oruro, Callangas and La Paz. A second conceptual construct of the author, actor-network theory, fits the findings in this book much better than her third theory of the diffusion of innovation. The paucity of concrete temporal and spatial information concerning other vineyard regions make Rice’s treatment of the spread of innovations fuzzy at best. If one views a book based on research as presenting discrete aspects of scholarly effort, namely fieldwork, “head work,” and “text work,” it is the first of these three that stands out in this volume as the delectable kernel. Excavation revealed by digging through layers of goat excrement deposited in animal pens that had once been bodegas provided a window into technology but also social relations of the colonial period. The chapter on rural landscape is a gem. By comparison, the derivative contextualizations and theories are less satisfactory. The “text work” aspect of this volume has much to recommend it, although a taxing succession of passive sentence constructions, the paucity and small scale of the maps; and an inappropriateness of the dust jacket design. No objurgation can diminish the intellectual value of this book for both the historical geography of Peru and the historical geography of New World viniculture. Based largely on the nitty-gritty site work about an introduced element of European culture and thus an uncommon departure from Andean archaeology as pre-Columbian, there is nothing else like it.