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Two new lipoaminoacids with complementary modes of action: new prospects to fight out against skin aging

The mode of action of two cosmetic active ingredients (AIs), palmitoyl glycine (PG) and cocoyl alanine (CA) was studied with cDNA array experiments and quantitative PCR confirmations, which were performed on experimentally aged human fibroblasts. These preliminary studies revealed complementary profiles. Thus, specific supplementary investigations were then carried out for each AI. Protocols used were based either on in vitro models: (i) biochemical assays, (ii) monolayer cell culture (primary human fibroblasts and keratinocytes) and (iii) the model of capillary‐like tube formation by human endothelial cells or on ex vivo models, i.e. topically treated skin explants and both immunohistochemical and ChromameterTM investigations. New prospects are proposed to fight out against skin aging. Indeed, PG and CA showed complementary properties and thus enabled a regulation or a restoration effect on main aging‐associated disorders. Thus, they can not only act on tissue architecture, cell–cell interactions and extracellular matrix protection but also on inflammation, cell longevity, skin immune system protection, skin radiance and stem cell survey. Finally, a clinical trial performed on Caucasian women confirmed AI anti‐wrinkle efficacy, which was superior to that of a market reference ingredient. In the future, complementary experiments enabling a better understanding of the aging‐induced decline of epidermal stem cells would be of a great interest.