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Bar Terra

A wine country classic takes a casual turn. 

In response to a cultural drift away from white table cloths, Lissa Doumani and Hiro Sone have converted half of their terrific restaurant, Terra, to this more relaxed sidekick. The new space has a bar and uncovered tables and a kitchen that operates at perfect pitch. Its East-meets-West menu, offered as a laid-back list of à la carte options, crosses continents without a sign of jet lag. Bacalao fritters are like fried seafood gnocchi, their crisp coats and creamy centers enlivened by an aromatic saffron aioli. The shoyu ramen has the kind of complex broth that only results from slow and careful cooking. Pork trotters and jowls come entangled in the noodles, along with the comforting addition of a coddled egg. There’s a stew of silken tripe and a pairing of seared albacore and sautéed calamari, enriched with black brushstrokes of squid ink, and for dessert, roasted figs in tangy lebne arrayed beside a beautifully fragile pistachio burma.$$$ DRW ★★★




Average price of an entrée:
$ = $10 or less
$$ = $11–17
$$$ = $18–24
$$$$ = $25 or more

D = Dinner only
R = Reservation required/recommended
C = Cash only
V = Valet parking
W = Wheelchair accessible

★★★★ = superlative
★★★ = excellent
★★ = very good
★ = good