The mainsheet will be led forward to a double block (one steering, one sheet) at a cockpit front corner and then  back to hand.  I'll sit at a good height facing forward, with the one hand for the sheet, and one for steering, as before. The  steering line may have enough friction to let it go for a short time. I could think about a cleat for the main  sheet later.  The steering is critical for the idea as a whole to work. Fortunately, I can set the steering up cheaply and try it  first. I can drop the hull down from the ceiling when I want to work on it. The only cost will be a few small  blocks and some line. If the steering works, I can add the kayak stabilizers and the seat in time for an early  spring lake trial.  Recently, I lowered the hull from the ceiling and did a trial set up for the steering line and seat placement.  There were only a few minor surprises, and they were good ones. The steering line requires no added bungee  cord for tension adjustment. I have a bowline loop at one end, and a rolling hitch for adjustment at the other.  Photos show the bowline and rolling hitch joining of the port side. Eventually, I plan to have them on  starboard. It was just easier to work in the garage from the port side. A simple constrictor knot worked fine at  the tiller. There's a short section of small plastic pipe on the line forward to keep it from rubbing against the  centerboard trunk. It was easy to get the tension in the steering line to adjust anywhere between what was  obviously too tight and too loose. Just right will probably need to be set on the water.  I didn't bother to drop the floorboards in for these photos. They will raise the seat a couple of inches.  The tiller naturally swings in a downward arc toward the blocks in each corner. That's all the throw I would  normally use. The tension seems constant throughout the swing. I should be able to get it just tight enough to  127