Inés Cuatrecasas and her business partner Marc Oliver come from one of the European design capitals: luminous Barcelona. Nevertheless, their professional career made and unexpected turn: a 5,588km one to be precise, and now they are leading Mille Collines fashion brand from Kigali, Rwanda capital city. Thanks to it, they hope to contribute to the development of the country and to how African products are perceived in other countries.
Their way of looking at things is local and global at the same time, artisan and avant-garde, a spirit rooted in capturing the best of different worlds, just the kind of vision that we admire in Dragonfruit.
African fashion is greatly unkown in Europe. How come a catalan girl gets interested in it?
Because of personal reasons I have had a strong bond with African continent since my childhood and I have been able to travel there may times. In my career as a designer, Africa has always been my muse. Fashion appeals me because of it’s sociologic side, as a tool to change the consumer’s mind and to fill in an unkown necessity.
I arrived to Rwanda for the first time in Summer of 2005, in coop with a Fundation. While I was there I met a rwandese woman, -Antoinette- strong, passionate and a fighter. We connected very quickly. She had worked her whole life in couture, and now she teaches sewing, as well as many other things. Inspired by Antoinette I came back a year later with Marc, my business partner, and we piloted our first collection. The result was much more positive than we had expeted. After successfully testing the outcome of the colledtion, a year later we founded the brand.
What new things has African fashion taught you? Why does it inspire you?
Because of the access it grants us to artisans and artisan techniques, very hard to find in Europe nowadays. Rwanda has allowed us to create a structure where we participate in the whole process. Africa is inspiration. Besides the less tangible feelings that made us fall in love with this continent, this place drags you to the essence of creation. As it used to be in Europe during the ’50s, were you were part and witness in every step of the process of developing a product. As designers, it is a privilege.
What defines Mille Collines’ style? What does it borrow from each place?
Mille Collines speaks of contrast. It feeds from two very different and strong influences. It dresses a woman who isn’t afraid of a changing world, who believes that through diversity we get closer to a more sophisticated kind of richness. A woman who values a high quality and unique product: every piece is handmade. Mille Collines woman feels connection with Africa. Be it because she is African and this brand speaks to her about her land, where she lives and her home is, or be it because she is far away and she feels a poignant longing. In an ever more global world there is room for a product that fusions and makes those influences get closer, that is, the mirror of the historical moment we are currently living in.
Why Rwanda? How did you get to live and work in there?
We get asked this question often. Africa and fashion are almost antagonic concepts currently. In this country we have set up an able team, there is a very high number of qualified professionals that don’t have many opportunities. We have discovered an unexplored territory to create items that, to many people’s surprise, are made in Africa and are sophisticated. Besides, Rwanda is a “kind” african country, that turns the day to day into a pleasent routine devoid of unpleasent surprises. It’s small size allow as to work with people located in very different parts of the country and not losing control of the productions.
We arrived to Rwanda with more information than that appearing in the press or TV. We had travelled the country before to visit the projects of an NGO founded by my mother, África Digna (Dignified/Worthy Africa). Rwanda is much better than imagined, there have been many changes in the last years. In fact, the country is known as “the African Switzerland” because of the degree of security and stability it offers to foreing investors.
The media stresses out so much the negative side, that when you land here you become very surprised at all the good things they never tell you. This helps adapting faster. Today, in our experience, we can say that these many preconceived ideas about African reality are unfairly exaggerated.
Do you collaborate with local artisans?
Yes, there are 270 local artisans collaborating with our brand today. In the raffia, tin, horn, embroidery, cristal and aluminium cooperatives.
We use them a lot. We work a lot with social networks, we connect every shop and every team through Facebook. It’s important that all of them are exposed to what is happening at the other end of the chain, that there is a space where they can generate projects with each other, were they can chat and contact, social networks have helped greatly altough there is still a barrier to be overcomed face to face, we solve this issue with regular meetings.
How do you see Burberry and other prestige brands’ appropiation of African fashion elements?
Communicating Africa is always interesting, but in many cases it’s just a trend, and that has an expiration date on it.
Is there an “African fashion”or are there too many differences among the different countries?
Undoubtely, there are common patterns. More than the traditional fashion, currently we can talk about a professional and exportable fashion: Globalization has provided the African people with tools for creating a product that can compete with the rest of the world. I’d want that it would be known what is Rwanda and Africa today, the many opportunities that are unfolding. Many people would get surprised.
We’ll keep an eye in Mille Collines’ challenges for this year. Whoever who wants to join, can follow their blog. Shortly, clothing items will be available as well in the online shop.