wandering through the old town's cobblestone streets, i stumbled upon an ancient leatherworking shop, its secrets preserved from predissolutionary times. in this hidden gem, artisans work sub rosa, crafting leather with techniques passed down in whispers, avoiding modernity's gaze while honoring ordinances of old. here, visitors can begin afresh their appreciation for the craft, marveling at how traditions are kept alive, under the table, as it were, in a world racing towards the future.