TEXT: Techniques
  1. Scoring 
  Scoring is a technique used to make folding easier by pre-creasing the paper along a fold line. The 
  most common method of scoring is to lightly drag a knife blade across the fold line, slicing through the 
  upper layers of the paper. The recommended method is to instead use an empty ballpoint pen or a ball 
  stylus tool to gently compress the paper along the fold lines. This prevents the appearance of unsightly 
  naked edges and makes for a much stronger model.
  2. Cutting
  Cutting may seem to be a glaringly obvious technique, but a few pointers are essential. For the majority 
  of cutting where paper models are concerned, a sharp knife and a steel ruler are far more precise and 
  efficient than a pair of scissors. Save the scissors for separating individual parts or groups of parts 
  from the rest of the sheet. 
  3. Edging
  Edging improves the appearance of paper models considerably by hiding the naked edges of cut parts. 
  Anything from color markers to soft pencils and various types of paints may be used to edge parts. 
  However, in most cases, matching the color exactly is less of a concern than simply matching the 
  contrast. For most purposes, three or four shades of gray from lightest to darkest will more than 
  suffice.
  4. Folding and Gluing
  Depending on the thickness of the paper or cardstock used, some parts may be difficult to assemble 
  with fingers alone. In this situation, a pair of tweezers is worth more than its weight in gold. Tweezers 
  come in a wide variety of sizes and jaw shapes, and some of the more exotic shapes are fantastically 
  useful for assembling tiny parts. Tweezers can be used to fold tiny flaps and clamp them in place while 
  the glue sets, as well as making it much easier to attach small parts to other parts.
  ©2003 Christopher Roe. All rights reserved. Permission granted to photocopy for personal use only.
  Tools Needed
  1. Knife
  2. Steel ruler
  3. Scissors
  4. Tweezers
  5. White glue
  6. Empty ballpoint pen
  7. Markers or paint
  8. Cutting mat
  9. Inkjet or laser printer
  10. Cardstock or heavy photo paper
  11. Patience
  The Basics Of Paper Modeling, Page 1 of 2
  
  Special Notes
  1. Gluing Tabs
  This model includes integral gluing tabs for joining certain parts together. However, the utility of gluing 
  tabs decreases proportionally as the thickness of the paper or cardstock increases. Thick cardstock 
  or paper can be used for printing this model, but it is recommended that you try a test assembly 
  before committing wholly to assembling a model. If the gluing tabs won't fit or otherwise throw off the 
  tolerances of the finished test assembly, leave them off the parts entirely and cut your own gluing tabs 
  out of scrap cardstock.
  These separate gluing tabs should overlap both of the parts to be joined, and glued to the unprinted 
  surface along the joining edges of both parts. This is called “backing”, and a side effect of this is that 
  parts will fit more or less flush. Backing parts with separate gluing tabs also generally yields better 
  modeling results, but the integral gluing tabs are retained for the convenience of beginners and those 
  who prefer to use thinner media for their paper models.
  2. Weighting
  This model comes with a set of hexagonal bases for the convenience of gamers, and these bases are 
  designed with enough interior volume to accommodate several small coins or metal washers. Gluing a 
  few pennies or small washers inside the bases will lend a greater heft and a degree of stability that 
  should make the model more convenient to use in a gaming environment.
  3. Sealing
  In most cases, sealing the model with varnish or other form of spray sealant isn't necessary. However, 
  if you want to add further detail to the model with decals or paint, you may want to seal the model with 
  several light coats of a waterproof glossy clear sealant first. This will protect the model from a 
  moderate level of moisture, and the smooth surface will facilitate the application of decals. You can 
  also apply a final coat of a matte clear sealant to kill the gloss afterwards. Keep in mind that the simple 
  act of sealing a model does not necessarily render it waterproof, and that any application of waterslide 
  decals needs to be done with great care.
  ©2003 Christopher Roe. All rights reserved. Permission granted to photocopy for personal use only.
  The Basics Of Paper Modeling, Page 2 of 2
  
  Torso Unit
  1. Glue Part 01 to 02 to form Subassembly A.
  2. Glue Part 03 to 04 to form Subassembly B.
  3. Glue Part 05 to 06 to form Subassembly C.
  4. Glue Subassemblies A and C to Subassembly B.
  Shoulder Blocks
  1. Glue Part 08 to 07 to form Subassembly D.
  2. Glue Part 10 to 09 to form Subassembly E.
  3. Glue Subassemblies D and E to the right and left sides 
  of the Torso Unit, respectively.
  Hip Rotator
  1. Glue Parts 11 and 13  to Part 12 to form Subassembly 
  F.
  2. Glue Subassembly F to the bottom of the Torso Unit.
  Right Side Weapon Pod (Subassembly G)
  1. Glue Parts 26 and 25 to Part 24, and then glue Part 27 
  to  the front of Parts 25 and 26 to form the barrel 
  assembly.
  2. Glue the barrel assembly to the front of Part 18.
  3. Connect Parts 18 and 19 using Part 20. You may either 
  trim off the trapezoidal end flaps on Part 20 and then glue 
  the edges to Parts 18 and 19, or slice openings into Parts 
  18 and 19 before gluing Part 20 in place.
  4. Do not glue Parts 18 and 19 together. Part 19 is 
  mounted on the right shoulder block in a later step.
  Assembly Instructions: Page 1
  
  Left Side Weapons Pod (Subassembly H)
  1. Glue Part 17 to the end of Part 16.
  2. Glue the open end of Part 16 to the back of Part 15.
  3. Glue Part 21 to the front of Part 15.
  Weapon Mounts
  1. Glue Subassembly G to the right shoulder block. 
  Ensure that Part 19 is glued only to the flat side of the right 
  shoulder block.
  2. Glue Subassembly H to the left shoulder block.
  3. Glue Part 22 to the flat side of the left shoulder block, 
  and then glue Part 23 to the top of Part 22, ensuring that 
  both Parts 22 and 23 are aligned along a common vertical 
  center axis.
  Suspension Unit
  1. Glue Parts 30 and 29 to Part 28, and Parts 33 and 32 to 
  Part 31 to form the right and left feet.
  2. Glue the right foot to the bottom of Part 35, and the left 
  foot to Part 34 to form the right and left lower legs.
  3 Glue the right lower leg to Part 37 and the left lower leg 
  to  Part 36 to form the complete right and left leg units.
  4. Glue the legs to the right and left sides of Part 14.
  Optional: Hex Base
  1. Glue Parts 39 and 40 to Part 38 to form the hex base.
  2. Glue Part 41 to the bottom of the hex base.
  Special Note: Before gluing Part 41 to the hex base, you 
  may want to glue up to six pennies or small metal 
  washers to the inside of the hex base for added weight 
  and stability.
  Assembly Instructions: Page 2
  
  Final Assembly
  1. Glue the Suspension Unit to the Torso Unit.
  Reference Images
  Clockwise: Front, Rear, Left, and Right views
  Model Scale: 1:60
  ©2003 Christopher Roe. All rights reserved. Permission granted to photocopy for personal use only.
  Assembly Instructions: Page 3
  
SOURCE: textdata/thevault/Crafts/Papercraft/Ebbles Miniatures/EBM10005 - MQ3a Mecha Model Set/mq3a_model_instructions.pdf