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  4/4/2021
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  For the past year and a half, once a week I have a bunch of friends over to 
  my house for a weekly game night where we all get together and play 
  Dungeons and Dragons. Because we're f*%#ing cool. Our group is fairly 
  large with seven players and myself as the dungeon master (I know, I know, 
  hes a dungeon master for a weekly D&D game? Tame the pitter-patter of 
  your fluttering hearts and calm the rush of blood to your nethers, I'm taken). 
  With such a large group, we need quite a bit of space, which for the past 18 
  months has meant my dining room table.
  While everyone does fit around this table, it gets a little elbowy with all 
  seven people plus all of their books and notes and stuff taking up positions 
  around the table. That's before you even account for me with all of my DM 
  shit taking up a chunk of surface area. While that's mostly bearable, the 
  main thing is that between my source books, miniatures, campaign binders, 
  props (yes I have props, I run an immersive game, f*%k you), and other 
  assorted things; when the table is not being used for gaming I have to move 
  approximately 180,000,000 lbs of shit out of there if I want to use the room 
  for anything else.
  I decided that it was for the best if I actually set up a space to be a 
  designated game room. We've got a room downstairs in our house where 
  we've been steadily moving all of our hand-me-down/thrift store furniture as 
  we replace it with newer, less decrepit things to the point where it's become 
  this weird hybrid room with a junky dining room set, a couch and chair from 
  1992 and a terrible rug. Also I accidentally painted it basketball orange so. . .
  If we got rid of the garbage furniture, repainted the walls and furnished it 
  with stuff that made some semblance of sense, we could have a really nice 
  game room/place to entertain. The centerpiece and focal point of this room, 
  would of course be the gaming table.
  I had an idea what I wanted, which was a fairly simple table, preferably kind 
  of rustic/taverny looking that had removable table-top slats to reveal a 
  gaming pit underneath so that the piece could do double duty as a normal 
  table when not in use for D&D. With my general vision in mind I did some 
  shopping around online, finding that unless I wanted to spend upwards of 
  $1,000 I was out of luck. On top of that, the options I found that were 
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  remotely reasonable in cost were not what I was looking for aesthetically 
  speaking.
  Now, I won't name any companies specifically, but I'll just say that if i'm 
  going to get a gaming table that is to be considered in any way ultimate, 
  it's sure as sh!t not going to be some Ikea looking piece of crap. If I'm going 
  to have a sh%t gaming table, I'll spend 200 bucks and make it my damned 
  self.
  The following is the process of building my custom gaming table, with notes 
  and descriptions of what I did, in case anyone reading is interested in 
  building one for themselves:
  The first thing I did was search around on the internet for plans for a gaming 
  table build. Like I said, I had a general idea that I needed a fairly large, 
  rectangular table with a gaming pit set down into the surface and panels of 
  some sort that could be put in and taken out to convert it to a regular table 
  when not in use, no break down of my game setup required.
  I found a set of plans that seemed fairly popular for people doing home 
  builds of tables, which I will link to at the end so you can use that as an 
  additional resource if you are trying to recreate this build. The only issues I 
  had with the plans and walkthrough video that the original creator put 
  together was that they were a little vague about certain details, missing 
  measurements in some places and the table he was building was only 4X4, 
  and had a monitor mounted in it. Needing a larger table and not really being 
  a digital map/computer screen kind of DM, some modifications would need 
  to be made, along with a fair bit of just f*#@ing winging it. I never claimed to 
  be a competent carpenter, I think it's important that you remember that.
  I went through his plans, watched his walkthrough a couple of times while 
  taking notes, and assembled my materials list based on what I thought I'd 
  need to build his same style table at the dimensions I wanted. Here is what I 
  came up with:
  • (2x) 1"x6"x8'*
  I Pooped in the
  Woods
   
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  • (2x) 1"x6"x6'*
  • (4x) 1"x4"x8'*
  • (4x) 1"x4"x4'
  • (3x) 3/4"x3/4"x6' quarter round
  • (10x) 2"x4"x8'
  • (5x) 1"x8"x6*
  • 4'x6'x3/4" plywood
  *try to get the higher quality, smoother, straighter cuts of lumber for these 
  items as they are the parts of the table that will be visible, and it's important 
  that they not be warped. It will save you a lot of effort sanding and prepping 
  as well if some of that is done for you.
  My additional materials list included these items:
  • Wood glue (large)
  • Wood filler (stainable)
  • (8x) 2 1/2" lag bolts
  • 1 5/8" screws
  • 2 1/2" screws
  • finish nails
  • 120 and 220 grit sandpaper
  • wood stain (color of choice)
  • wood pre-stain
  • Spar-Urethane (1g)
  Tools I used:
  • Handheld circular saw
  • Table Saw
  • Jig saw
  • Corded Drill
  • tape measures, levels, straight edges
  December 2015 (1)
  November 2015 (1)
  October 2015 (2)
  September 2015 (1)
  August 2015 (2)
  July 2015 (7)
  
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  Tools that I didn't have but would have been good: Miter saw
  I got all my materials and set everything up in the garage. I had an old desk 
  in there that I used to place the plywood on while building the table, but if 
  you have a couple of sawhorses or some other flat surface to work on, 
  whatever will do.
  The first thing I needed to decide was exactly what size the table should be. 
  Based on the size of the room I wanted to put it in, and the number of 
  people I needed to comfortably sit around it, I settled on having the play 
  area be 3'x6' with the total dimensions of the table being closer to 4'X7' with 
  the added length and width of the area around the gaming pit that would 
  have cup holders and dice trays set into it
  I cut my plywood down to 3X6 with s circular saw. which is the size it is in 
  the picture above.
  The basic plan from this point was to build a framework on the underside to 
  make sure the table was nice and sturdy, and then build up and out off the 
  edges of the plywood on the top to create a raised frame around the center.
  
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  Next the framing/support for the bottom using 2x4's. In the original design, 
  there was a cutout and mount for a monitor smack in the center of the 
  plywood there, but I wasn't planning on doing that so I added a third 
  support right in the middle to make sure it was nice and sturdy.
  The two sides of this 'ladder' looking thing are the exact same length as the 
  plywood, while the horizontal supports are 24 inches and spaced evenly, 
  using the center one at the exact middle of the table as a reference.
  
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  WIth everything centered lengthwise and widthwise, I took a pencil and 
  marked the outlines where the supports were and removed them.
  I took my drill and pre-drilled holes where the supports would be attached 
  to the plywood. I always try to pre-drill, as it reduces the risk of splitting the 
  wood, or stripping a screw half way in. Especially since I was going to be 
  using 2 1/2" screws for this part the last thing I wanted to do was spend 
  twenty goddamn minutes unscrewing a stripped screw from the board with 
  a pair of pliers.
  
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  2 1/2" screws securely drilled in from below, using my pre-drilled holes as a 
  guide, I flipped the table over to get to work on the top portion.
  The next step here would be to put on the first piece of framing, what would 
  essentially create the border around the play area (plywood surface).
  
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  The original plans recommended a 2 1/2 inch lip above the play area so that 
  there would be enough room to place a tabletop over it without having to 
  remove miniatures and stuff, so I marked 2 1/2 inches on the 1X4's that are 
  used for this part. 
  This took some figuring as it was poorly marked on the original plans I had, 
  and the walkthrough video didn't cover it, but this framing is done by cutting 
  the two pieces on the long sides of the table so they extend past the end of 
  the table, while the pieces on the short sides sit inside.
  You apply a bead of wood glue, line up your 2 1/2" mark with the top edge 
  of the plywood, and secure it with finish nails to hold it in place. You then go 
  back though with 1 5/8" screws and secure it firmly to the plywood.
  It looks like this when it's done:
  
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  The thing that tripped me up was figuring out exactly how far out the two 
  side pieces needed to stick. What I ended up doing was attaching the two 
  short pieces to the plywood first, since I knew they were exactly the width of 
  the plywood. I then set it on the ground and laid pieces out to mock 
  everything up so I could measure. Essentially, what you are starting here is 
  the framework that the top piece with the cupholders and stuff sits on, the 
  short piece that was just secured being flush with the 1x6 that creates that 
  top.
  
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  Long story short if you use the inside corner of the short 1x4 (corner of the 
  plywood) as your starting point, the long board needs to stick out 5" off the 
  end of the table, so that when another 1x4 is later attached flat with the 
  protruding pieces it creates a frame that is 5 1/2 inches wide to fit flush with 
  the 1x6 top piece. (Actual measurement for a 1x6 is really 5 1/2 inches wide, 
  probably for some mathematical reason that makes sense, but I don't 
  understand, so I'm just going with because wood is stupid)
  If that was confusing, sorry. It confused the shi%t out of me while I was 
  building the thing, and STILL confused the sh%t out of my trying to re-
  explain it after I've already done it. Hopefully the pictures going forward will 
  help you understand how it all goes together.
  
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  The next thing to do is cut out all these little nubbin boys here. They are 
  made by taking 2X4's, cutting them once to make 5' pieces, and then 
  cutting those lengthwise to shave off about and inch.
  These are going to be the braces that go all around the frame we have put 
  up and become supports to make the outer area nice and strong, since 
  that's where people will be leaning. I made 12 of them, and arranged them 
  like this:
  
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  The long sides got four each, while the short sides got two. You can kind of 
  see now how those long pieces create two additional supports on the 
  corners. I probably messed this up a little bit with my placement on the long 
  sides with these. I probably should have spaced them out more so that the 
  corners had a support down right at the end just like the short sides do. It all 
  went together fine and seems sturdy, so I guess it's not that big a deal.
  To secure these, i put wood glue on the end, pressed it to the 1x4 with the 
  bottoms of both pieces flush with one another then hammered a finish nail 
  in from the inside of the frame to hold it in place and followed it up with a 1 
  5/8" screw.
  
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  This is where stuff started to get a little tricky for me in particular as I didn't 
  have a nice table mounted miter saw for making 45 degree cuts. I was 
  working pretty much exclusively freehand. My hand circular saw did angle 
  to make a 45, but I pretty much had to rely on a steady hand to make it 
  even.
  In other words I was f*%#ed at this point.
  Using the long pieces of the interior part of the framework as a guide (the 
  shorter edge of the angled cut lined up with the end of the other piece of 
  wood) I made the two of those with the 1x4s and attached them so that I 
  could set my shorter pieces on top and mark where to make my cuts.
  I attached these at this point, but you SHOULD NOT. The next step I outline, 
  should be done before you put these pieces in place. It will make your life 
  much easier.
  Here it is assembled. The angled pieces get slapped onto the outside of 
  the framework we've created out of our long inner boards and 2x4 nubbies. 
  
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  Two finish nails go into the board at the site of each support with wood glue 
  to seal it all. I also put two nails in each corner to help pull them more flush. 
  Like I said I was freehanding that sh#t, so it didn't come out as perfect as I'd 
  have liked.
  Next I put in the quarter round pieces that will serve as a lip for the tabletop 
  to rest on when covering the gaming area.  Like I said, I should have done 
  this before attaching the 1x4 to the outside of the frame because it was a 
  nightmare to attach these. I couldn't get a hammer at a correct angle or with 
  enough force to drive finish nails in, so I ended up having to pre-drill holes 
  with my drill, and then hand screw in 1 5/8' screws doing my best not to 
  punch out of the rounded side if I went too far.
  The next step was to cut the 1x6's at 45 degree angles across the width to 
  create the top of our outer border. Again, here a mounted miter saw with a 
  swivel would have been nice, but I did it freehand by making a 45 degree 
  angle line in pencil and following it as steadily as possible.
  
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  Here it is with three of the four pieces in place. You can finally tell what the 
  finished thing is going to look like here. with the raised area for players to 
  lean, write and place their drinks on, and the lower portion down below for 
  miniatures and maps.
  You can also see here I started tracing my cutouts for cupholders. 
  It was around this time that I changed my mind on putting dice trays in, as I 
  felt they would take too much of the surface area away and leave players 
  feeling a little cramped. With such a large interior play area it would be easy 
  enough to roll in there.
  I traced the rim of the cupholders so that I'd be able to cut out the hole with 
  a jig saw slightly smaller. The hole didn't need to be particularly pretty, just 
  wide enough that the cup holder could slip in there and rest on the lip.
  The cupholders I got off Amazon, they are the same ones the guy used for 
  his original design. A link to them is in the description of the youtube video 
  I'll put at the end.
  
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  Here it is all assembled. I attached the tops of the arm rest portion by 
  putting a bead of glue all the way around the 1x4 frame that I created and 
  setting the piece down before securing it with finish nails. I went in after that 
  with wood filler and patched over my nail holes as well as the seams at the 
  corners where my aformentioned lack of proper tools and general shittiness 
  at carpentry had left it looking slopy.
  Next I made the legs.
  
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  These were pretty simple 2x4 legs. Each one is made by cutting lengths of 
  2x4s and screwing them together. One piece is longer, and gets cut to 
  whatever the height you want your table to be is. I went a little higher than 
  the original plans, but you could easily go higher still if you wanted a bartop 
  height gaming table. Whatever you cut the longer piece at, you cut the 
  other part of the leg 3 1/2 inches shorter so that it can slot right up against 
  the ladder shaped frame that was done in the beginning.
  Rinse and repeat until you've got four identical table legs, then pre-drill and 
  secure the two halves of the legs to each other. I used three 2 1/2" screws 
  for each leg. 
  I wouldn't recommend attaching the legs to the table yet, as it will be a lot 
  easier to attach the bottom shelf to them after you make it and then put the 
  thing together in it's final home at the very end.
  Next I created the slats to sit inside the lip of the table and create a smooth 
  surface for when it wasn't in use for gaming. I had originally intended to 
  make them horizontal but a friend suggested they would look better as long 
  vertical planks instead. Due to the fact that he was right and also doing long 
  vertical planks meant less cutting I decided to go with that. Whoever said 
  laziness and aesthetic appeal didn't go hand in hand?
  
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  To get the 1x8's to fit properly I did still have some cutting to do though, so 
  first I cut them all down to 6ft so they would fit lengthwise. The math wizards 
  in the group might be saying "Hey, isn't that opening 36 inches wide? 8inch 
  planks aren't going to divide evenly into that amount of space".
  The math wizards are correct. Five 8' planks, which we all know are really 
  7.5 inches across because wood is stupid, to fit into the 36inch opening I left 
  four of them alone and cut the fifth piece down to six inches wide using a 
  table saw and set this in as the middle piece.
  It's hard to see here, but I cut a hole in the center of that thinner piece so 
  that it could hooked with a finger and lifted out of the center when you were 
  trying to take the cover off.
  At this point I wanted a change of pace from measuring, cutting and 
  building, so I decided to leave the bottom shelf for later, and go on to sand 
  stain and finish the parts I had already built.
  
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  I used the 120 grit sandpaper to smooth down any rough patches and then 
  switch to the 220 to give everything a once over to get it as smooth as 
  possible, I have an orbital sander, but after doing all of the cutting freehand I 
  had some stupid idea that Id forsake the power tool and sand it all by hand. 
  I do not recommend this it was tiring and took forever.
  I used a lighter colored stain, with just a hint of amber tint to it, because I 
  was going for a rustic, well worn tavern table look to go with the D&D 
  concept of the table. It took two coats of stain to get the color the way I 
  liked it.
  
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  For the finish I used the Spar-urethane because I did some research, and 
  short of actually building a framework around the table pieces and doing a 
  resin pour, that was the best finish to give that thick glassy bartop look I 
  wanted. 
  The urethane took three coats to get it nice and solid. I had some trouble 
  with the slats after the urethane went down as the layer added just enough 
  extra size and friction to make them not want to fit. I had to further shave 
  down the center plank little by little until it fit in.
  Once it was all dry I popped the cupholders in to see what the finished 
  tabletop would look like. I opted not to secure the cupholders, as they fit in 
  there fairly snugly, and I figured if anyone ever spilled or anything they'd be 
  easier to clean if I could just take them out.
  
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  The bottom shelf was surprisingly easy to make. It's just a frame of 2x4s 
  screwed into each other with 2 1/2 inch screws  then planks get attached to 
  the top with wood glue and finish nails.
  I measured the distance between the insides of the long supports on the 
  underside of the table and made the shelf that exact width and 62 inches 
  long. For the top I used pieces of leftover something I had picked up at 
  some point that was not the size I thought it was (I think they were 8 inches 
  wide by 1 1/2 or something) It turned out I had just enough to perfectly fit the 
  frame I'd made, and the pattern of the alternating depth wood looked cool 
  so I wen't with it. It was either that or go buy more wood, and once again, 
  laziness and aesthetics are not mutually exclusive.
  
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  I sanded, stained and finished it the same as I had done with the tabletop 
  and legs, attached the legs to the corners of it from the inside with 2 1/2 
  inch nails and it was all done.
  I attached bottle openers to the four corners of the table top so people 
  could open their beers while we play, and it was all ready to go except for 
  getting it moved inside, assembled, and finishing the play surface on the 
  interior.
  
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  I did bring it inside at this point and attached the top to the bottom. For the 
  play surface I decided to use cork. I thought felt would look bad if I tried to 
  put it down myself, and that 5mm craft foam that you see used a lot didn't 
  seem like it would hold up, so I found a roll of 4ft by 6ft cork sheeting that I 
  could cut to size and super glue to the play surface.
  If you were following along, doing your own table build, you could call it a 
  day at this point if you wanted to. The table has everything it needs to be a 
  completely low tech solution for your tabletop game. As I said, I'm not really 
  a computer maps and mounted monitor kind of DM so for the most part a 
  nice looking table with some minor bells and whistles pretty well covers my 
  needs.
  
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  I did however get a little ambitious with some ideas for some 
  slight upgrades to add a little bit of tech flare to my setup. If none of this 
  other stuff appeals to you, feel free to stop at the above point, but here is a 
  breakdown of a couple of add-ons I made:
  The first thing I added was these color changing LED strip lights that I found 
  around the interior border. The lights I found have a little remote control so I 
  can switch them to different hues so I can play around with mood 
  lighting. Red when the party fights the dragon in it's lair full of magma flows? 
  Green when they walk through the sunlit forests of the elves? Pink when the 
  bard starts playing Barry White in the tavern to seduce wenches? You get 
  the idea, I told you I run an immersive game and anyone who says 
  otherwise is a lying son of a b#tch.
  
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  I secured them around the interior lip of the play area and drilled a small 
  hole through which to run the power cable out of the table and down the 
  leg. 
  
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  Last, I decided I wanted to create a piece that would give me (or anyone 
  DMing) extra space at the head of the table for all the assorted stuff they 
  need, so I took a scrap piece of the plywood I'd cut off the table and made 
  a single horizontal plank about a foot wide that I stained and finished. 
  Plywood doesn't really take stain properly the way a normal piece of lumber 
  will so I don't typically recommend it. For me it was the only spare piece of 
  wood I had that was large enough and it was a combination of wanting to 
  make use of what I had if I could and not caring all that much about the 
  appearance since it was only there to get hidden behind the DM screen 
  anyway. Sometimes laziness and aesthetic appeal are in fact, at odds. 
  If you wanted to do this, it would be a simple matter of getting another 
  board at whatever width you felt was suitable for the DM area.
  
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  idiottantrum.com/aih/2018/7/17/gaming-table
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  Here is the finished product, all the bells and whistles added
  
  4/4/2021
  How to Build it; Custom Gaming Table — Idiot Tantrum
  idiottantrum.com/aih/2018/7/17/gaming-table
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  I put two chairs on each side for the picture here, but it easily fits three to a 
  side with two on each end for a total of eight people comfortably around it. 
  Eventually my plan is to make a pair of benches for the long sides and get a 
  few interesting looking chairs for the ends. Until then, I'm just using chairs 
  from wherever in my house..
  
  4/4/2021
  How to Build it; Custom Gaming Table — Idiot Tantrum
  idiottantrum.com/aih/2018/7/17/gaming-table
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  4/4/2021
  How to Build it; Custom Gaming Table — Idiot Tantrum
  idiottantrum.com/aih/2018/7/17/gaming-table
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  
  RV'S ARE THE FU$*ING WORST.
   
  EXPERTS ANNOUNCE: THE LAST FUCKIN
  All in all I'm pretty happy with the way it came out. It's very sturdy, looks 
  pretty much how I envisioned it, and will suit my gaming needs perfectly.
  Now I just have to do something about the rest of the room around it. . .
  Link to the youtube video with plans that I followed: here
  These can also befound in the description of the video:
  Link to the cupholders: here
  Link for bottle openers: here
  Link for LED's : here (note here: They cost me 24 bucks of a supposed 
  original price of $138. They have an expiration timer on the sale, but it said 
  the same thing when I bought them three weeks ago, so I think it's just 
  bullshit to make you buy them faster.)
   Matthew Palmieri /   36 Comments
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   Gaming Table, D&D, Dungeons And Dragons, Tabletop Gaming, Table
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SOURCE: textdata/thevault/Crafts/Building/How to Build it - Custom Gaming Table — Idiot Tantrum.pdf