TEXT: T&T Abridged Rules 
  http://www.freedungeons.com/rules/ 
   
   
  The Tunnels & Trolls solitaire games provide the 
  means for you to play the part of an adventurous hero 
  in mystical, magical times. Such an adventurer seeks 
  wealth, fame and glory in ancient citadels filled with 
  monsters and treasures galore. To play this game, you 
  will need some rough paper, a pencil or pen, and a 
  number of six-sided dice (at least three). You might find 
  index cards useful, and there may be occasions where 
  you are asked to use an ordinary deck of cards. 
   
  Contents 
  • 
  CREATING YOUR ADVENTURER  
  • 
  CHARACTER RACES  
  • 
  CHARACTER TYPES  
  • 
  PROVISIONS AND EQUIPMENT  
  • 
  WEAPONS  
  • 
  GENERAL SUPPLIES  
  • 
  COMBAT  
  • 
  SAVING ROLLS  
  • 
  MISSILE WEAPONS AND COMBAT  
  • 
  MAGIC AND SPELL CASTING  
  • 
  THE SPELL BOOK  
  • 
  TIME  
  • 
  EXPERIENCE  
  • 
  TREASURE TABLE  
   
  CREATING YOUR ADVENTURER 
  Each adventurer is defined by “Prime Attributes”: 
  Strength, Intelligence, Luck, Constitution, Dexterity, 
  Charisma, and Speed. They define the character's 
  basic innate abilities. Other details, like the character's 
  name, sex, hair and eye colour, kindred, character type, 
  round a character out, but the “Prime Attributes” are the 
  factors that make the game work. 
  Roll three six-sided dice, add up the scores and 
  write them next to the prime attributes: use pencil 
  because these numbers could change later. Repeat the 
  roll for each attribute listed. 
  STRENGTH (ST) is the ability to exert force – 
  lifting, shoving, etc. Strength limits your choice of 
  weapons and tells you how much you can carry. If ST 
  ever falls to 0 or below your character is dead. 
  INTELLIGENCE (IQ) measures a character's ability 
  to reason, solve problems, and remember. 
  LUCK (LK) measures how blind chance works for 
  or against your character. Luck affects combat results, 
  and is usually the attribute affecting “Saving Rolls” 
  (explained in its own section). 
  CONSTITUTION (CON) measures a character's 
  health. 
  Combat 
  damage 
  is 
  subtracted 
  from 
  Constitution. If CON reaches 0, the character is dead. 
  DEXTERITY (DEX) refers to both manual dexterity 
  and physical agility. Marksmanship is defined by 
  Dexterity. 
  CHARISMA 
  (CHR) 
  measures 
  personal 
  attractiveness and leadership ability. It is not just a 
  measure of good looks, but most often it is treated as 
  such. 
  SPEED (SPD) is how fleet of foot and how 
  responsive a character is. Speed is the only thing 
  standing between many adventurers and the monsters 
  pursuing them. 
  WEIGHT POSSIBLE is 100 times Strength. It 
  measures how many “weight units” a character can 
  haul around. (If Mantaro the Inimitable has a ST of 15, 
  he can carry 1500 weight units.) Ten weight units weigh 
  one pound. 
   
  CHARACTER RACES 
  The next thing you'll want to decide is whether or not 
  you want your character to be a human or to be one of 
  the other ancient races which inhabit this magical 
  world. It is recommended that you start out with a 
  
  T&T Abridged Rules 
  http://www.freedungeons.com/rules/ 
  human, but especially in some of the more difficult 
  adventures, you may want to create a character from 
  one of the tougher kindreds until you develop a more 
  experienced human. The Peters-McAllister Chart For 
  Creating Man-like Characters, below, creates some of 
  the other humanoid kindred. 
  ELVES 
  IQ and DEX × 3/2, CHR × 2, CON × 2/3.  
  All other attributes × 1. 
  DWARVES 
  ST and CON × 2, CHR × 2/3.  All other 
  attributes × 1. 
  HOBBITS 
  ST × ½, CON × 2, DEX × 3/2.  All other 
  attributes × 1. 
  As you can see, no single race is unconditionally better 
  than any other race. Humans are often the best all-
  round choice, and there is never any question about 
  whether they are the kind of adventurer accepted into a 
  scenario. 
   
  CHARACTER TYPES 
  The final decision needed to create your character is 
  what kind of background and training he or she has 
  had. This background determines how the character 
  makes a living and a great deal more. A character must 
  fall within one of the two categories listed below. Each 
  category has advantages and disadvantages, strengths 
  and weaknesses. Read through them all, and then 
  decide. (A recommendation: if this is the first time you 
  have played T & T, try a human warrior to begin with.) 
  WARRIOR: A warrior understands force first, 
  subtlety last. Warriors are trained in using weapons and 
  Armor to their best advantage, and get twice the normal 
  listed protection from Armor and shields they use. 
  While warriors can use most magical artifacts they find, 
  warriors cannot cast any magic (like being colour-blind, 
  it is simply beyond their abilities). If a character's ST is 
  greater than his IQ or LK, that character could make a 
  good warrior. 
  WIZARD: Wizards (also called magicians, mages, 
  magic-users, and sorcerers) are those individuals that 
  had the innate ability and received the training to 
  control the psi-forces that power the arcane world of 
  magic. Only youngsters with a reasonably good 
  Intelligence (IQ of 10 or better) and decent Dexterity 
  (DEX of 8 or better) will be trained by the elder wizards 
  of the all-pervasive Wizard's Guild. All the Level 1 
  spells (detailed later) are the basic heritage of wizard 
  characters. Spells beyond that level must be purchased 
  from the Wizard's Guild or discovered while 
  adventuring. Wizards can use a magic staff to reserve 
  their energies while casting magic. 
  Because wizards spent their youth learning magic, 
  they are inept at using weapons. Only small weapons 
  like 
  daggers, 
  and 
  appropriate 
  weapons 
  like 
  quarterstaves may be used by wizards. Wizards do get 
  combat adds, the same as any other character type, 
  and may wear what Armor they choose although they 
  get only the Armor's listed value in protection. If IQ is 
  greater than either ST or LK, the character could make 
  a good wizard. Don't forget a wizard must have an IQ of 
  10 or more, and a DEX of 8 or more to begin with. 
  There are two other character types: rogues and 
  wizard warriors (they can be found in the full Tunnels & 
  Trolls Rule Book). 
   
  PROVISIONS AND EQUIPMENT 
  You have determined virtually everything about your 
  character. Now it is time to buy the provisions and 
  equipment the character will need on his or her 
  adventures. 
  Characters probably have a few possessions 
  before that first big adventure, but nothing really 
  suitable for a serious adventurer. A character scrapes 
  up all the money possible and starts from scratch. To 
  determine the number of gold coins your character 
  starts out with, roll 3 dice and multiply the result by 10 
  (you will get between 30 and 180 gold pieces, 
  abbreviated g.p.). Some things in the equipment lists 
  you will not be able to purchase immediately, but after 
  even one adventure, the character may be able to 
  purchase more and better equipment with the rewards 
  of success. 
  The basic unit of exchange is the gold piece, a 
  simple gold coin. Prices are all listed in gold pieces. 
  There are also silver and copper coins. One gold piece 
  = 10 silver pieces (s.p.) = 100 copper pieces (c.p.). 
  Every coin, regardless of value, weighs 1 weight unit. 
  This makes the basic unit of weight also equal to a gold 
  piece. Most jewels weigh no more than 1 g.p. (and 
  most less), although large objects like jade statues 
  have no standard weight. 
   
   
   
   
  
  T&T Abridged Rules 
  http://www.freedungeons.com/rules/ 
  WEAPONS 
  Dice + Adds ST req DEX req Cost Weight 
  Range 
  *Great Sword 
  6 + 0 
  21 
  18 
  120 
  170 
   
  Broadsword 
  3 + 4 
  15 
  10 
  70 
  120 
   
  Short Sword 
  3 + 0 
  7 
  3 
  35 
  30 
   
  Falchion 
  4 + 4 
  12 
  13 
  75 
  110 
   
  Scimitar 
  4 + 0 
  10 
  11 
  60 
  100 
   
  Rapier 
  3 + 4 
  10 
  14 
  80 
  20 
   
  *Doublebitted Axe 
  6 + 3 
  21 
  10 
  140 
  220 
   
  *Heavy Mace 
  5 + 2 
  17 
  3 
  120 
  200 
   
  Bludgeon 
  3 + 0 
  5 
  2 
  15 
  50 
   
  *Quarterstaff 
  2 + 0 
  2 
  8 
  10 
  50 
   
  Baton - weighted stick 
  2 + 0 
  2 
  1 
  10 
  20 
   
  Trident 
  4 + 3 
  10 
  10 
  60 
  75 
  10 yds. 
  Common Spear 
  3 + 1 
  8 
  8 
  22 
  50 
  40 yds. 
  Sax (dagger) 
  2 + 5 
  7 
  10 
  30 
  25 
   
  Haladie (dagger) 
  2 + 4 
  2 
  4 
  25 
  10 
   
  Dirk 
  2 + 1 
  1 
  4 
  18 
  16 
   
  to throw 
   
   
  10 
   
   
  10 yds. 
  *Crossbow 
  5 + 0 
  15 
  10 
  250 
  180 
  100 yds. 
  *Medium Longbow 
  4 + 3 
  15 
  15 
  100 
  60 
  140 yds. 
  *Very light bow 
  2 + 0 
  9 
  15 
  50 
  30 
  60 yds. 
  Sheaf of 24 arrows 
   
   
   
  40 
  10 
   
  Curare (poison): 3 applications 
   
   
   
  100 
  1 
   
  Curare doubles effectiveness of any edged weapon 
  before combat adds computed. One application lasts 3 
  combat rounds only. 
  All weapons have ST and DEX requirements. A 
  character must meet these required minimums to use 
  the weapon. The “Weight” of a weapon is given in 
  weight units – remember Weight Carried. Keep track of 
  the weight of purchases and the weight of any money 
  the character carries. 
  The column of “Dice + Adds” pertains to the 
  weapons' combat effectiveness. The greater the 
  numbers in these categories, the more deadly the 
  weapon is. Specifics are discussed under “Conducting 
  Combat”. Wizards may not use weapons with more 
  than 2 dice (but any number of adds) in the Dice + 
  Adds column. 
  The column labeled “Range” states the maximum 
  range for the weapon in missile combat. If there is no 
  listing, the weapon may not be used as a missile. 
  Further discussion of missile combat follows. 
  An asterisk (*) indicates a weapon that requires two 
  hands for proper use. No second weapon or shield may 
  be used unless the character has more than two hands. 
  Two weapons without asterisks may be used 
  simultaneously IF the user has the ST and DEX 
  requirements for BOTH weapons (e.g. to fight with a 
  dirk in each hand requires a minimum ST of 2 and a 
  DEX of 8). 
   
  GENERAL SUPPLIES 
  Cost 
  Weight 
  Warm dry clothing and pack 
  5 
  10 
  Provisions for 1 day (food, drink, "matches") 
  10 
  20 
  Ordinary torch (lasts 10 turns) 
  1 s.p. 
  10 
  Hemp rope 
  1 s.p./ft. 
  5/ft. 
  Calf-high boots 
  10 
  40 
  Ordinary magic staff (may double as quarterstaff. If so, weight is 50.) 
  100 
  30 
   
   
   
  
  T&T Abridged Rules 
  http://www.freedungeons.com/rules/ 
  ARMOR 
  Armor lasts as long as it is being worn unless 
  something is specifically stated to destroy it. Armor and 
  shields can take “hits” (damage in combat) every time 
  they are hit, protecting the wearer. The total “ST 
  needed” of a character's Armor and shield must never 
  exceed their personal ST.  i.e. a person wearing mail 
  (ST needed 12) and carrying a target shield (ST 
  needed 5) requires a minimum ST of 17. However the 
  “ST needed” of the character's weapon is not added to 
  this total; for example, in the case above the character 
  would be able to carry any weapon to a maximum “ST 
  needed” of 17 in addition to his Armor and shield. Note 
  that one cannot add to the “complete” suits of Armor – 
  the arming doublet and steel cap are for those who 
  cannot afford complete Armor. 
   
  Hits taken 
  ST needed 
  Cost 
  Weight 
  Complete mail (complete body, helm, gauntlets) 
  11 
  12 
  300 
  1200 
  Complete leather (complete body, helm, gauntlets) 
  6 
  2 
  50 
  200 
  Arming doublet 
  3 
  1 
  40 
  75 
  Steel cap 
  1 
  1 
  10 
  25 
  Target shield 
  4 
  5 
  35 
  300 
   
  COMBAT 
  You know you'll probably get into a fight when 
  adventuring. But how good a fighter are you? The 
  attributes listed above tell you. The ones important in 
  fighting are ST, LK, and DEX (strength, luck and 
  dexterity). If you are better than average in any of those 
  attributes, you're a better fighter – you hit harder, 
  control your weapon better, or are just more apt to get a 
  lucky shot. Since “average” is between 9 and 12, for 
  each point above 12 in your ST, LK or DEX, you get 1 
  point added to your “Personal Adds”. 
  If any of those attributes is below 9, you must 
  subtract 1 point from you personal adds for each point 
  any one of the three attributes is less than 9. 
  Every weapon gets a certain number of dice to 
  represent the amount of damage it can do. That plus 
  your personal adds reflects how well you fight. 
  When you get into combat, decide what weapon 
  you'll use. In the adventure itself, your options may be 
  dictated by circumstances found there – follow those 
  instructions. If you have your own weapons available, 
  you can use them. The shortsword gets 3 dice, and the 
  dagger gets 2 dice plus 5 extra “adds”. You can sue 
  both at once if you wish. 
  When you enter combat, start by rolling the dice for 
  your weapon (3 dice for the sword, 2 for the dagger). 
  Add the pips showing (let's say you get 18 for them 
  both together). Add the weapon's extra adds, if any (the 
  dagger gets 5, the sword, 0). Add all that to your 
  personal adds. (If you have 33 personal adds, your total 
  would be 56.) That result is your hit point total, and it 
  represents your part in a single round of fighting. 
  Your opponents will fight back, of course. Some 
  fight the way you do, with weapons and adds. When 
  you have to fight such an opponent, you will be told the 
  weapon(s) being used, the CON and personal adds of 
  your foes, and if they are wearing any Armor. 
  However, most monsters have a Monster Rating 
  (MR). This number reflects how well the monster fights. 
  When you're told a monster's MR, check this chart to 
  see how many dice it gets: 
  Monster Rating Number of Dice 
  1-9 
  1 
  10-19 
  2 
  20-29 
  3 
  30-39 
  4 
  etc. 
  etc. 
   
  An easy way to find out how many dice a monster gets 
  is to divide the Monster Rating by 10 (discarding any 
  remainder), and add 1. At places in the game, you will 
  have to determine what the Monster Rating is, 
  according to the directions given in the text, before 
  determining the number of dice a monster gets. Simply 
  follow the instructions in the text. 
  Monsters also get “adds” like your personal adds: 
  that number is one-half its Monster Rating, rounded up. 
  When a monster fights, you roll the number of dice 
  indicated on the chart. Add up the spots showing, then 
  add the monster's adds. The result is the monster's hit 
  point total. If you foe fights the way you do, roll dice for 
  his weapon and add the weapon and personal adds 
  noted to get your enemy's hit point total. 
  
  T&T Abridged Rules 
  http://www.freedungeons.com/rules/ 
  After you get your hit point total, and your foe's hit 
  point total, compare the two numbers. The side that 
  had the higher number hurt the side that had the lower 
  number. The difference between the two numbers 
  indicates how badly the loser was hurt. 
  You may have to fight several opponents at once. If 
  so, add together all the monsters' hit point totals before 
  comparing the grand total with your hit point total. 
  Follow this chart to conduct simple combat: 
  • 
  Pick your weapon(s). 
    
  • 
  Roll the dice indicated, adding the pips: 
  ___________ 
  • 
  Add weapon adds, if any: 
  ___________ 
  • 
  Add your personal adds: 
  ___________ 
  This is your hit point total: 
  ___________ 
  • 
  Does your foe have a Monster Rating or weapons? 
  ___________ 
  • 
  Roll the dice for its MR or weapon, and total: 
  ___________ 
  • 
  Add foe's weapon adds, if any: 
  ___________ 
  • 
  Add half its current MR or its personal adds: 
  ___________ 
  This is the monster's hit point total: 
  ___________ 
  • 
  Subtract the smaller hit point total from the larger hit point total. The result is the possible damage.   
  • 
  If you had the larger number, then:  
  o Subtract the value of any Armor worn by your foe(s).  
  o Subtract the damage from your foe's MR or CON.  
  o If the result is 0 or below, the monster is dead.  
  o If not, use the result as the new MR or CON and continue fighting. 
   
  • 
  If the monster had the larger number, then:  
  o Subtract 12 points from the damage for your leather Armor, if you're wearing it (it protects you  
         every turn as long as you wear it).  
  o Subtract any remaining damage from your CON number. That's an actual wound; you're bleeding.  
  o If your CON drops to 0 or below, you're dead. Sorry!  
  o If you aren't dead, fight again or run away! 
   
   
  If you face Armored opponents (and you might), you 
  will be told how many points their Armor is worth, and 
  whether they are warriors. If they are warriors, you 
  have to double the listed protection value, according to 
  what's written in the game text. 
   
  SAVING ROLLS 
  When the text of the game instructs you to “make a 
  saving roll”, you use 2 dice to check your abilities 
  against the hand of fate. The text will tell you on what 
  attribute to make the roll and at what level to make the 
  roll. Once you know the level of the saving roll to be 
  made, follow the chart below: 
  • 
  Note what number currently represents the attribute 
  on which the roll is to be made.  
  • 
  Subtract the attribute number from 20 (for level 1 
  roll), from 25 (Level 2 roll), from 30 (Level 3 roll), from 
  35 (Level 4), or 40 (Level 5).  
  • 
  If the result is less than 5, make it equal to 5. 
                      This is your "To hit" number.  
  • 
  Roll 2 dice  
  • 
  If the result is a 1 and a 2, or a 1 and a 3, you have 
  automatically missed the saving roll.  
  • 
  If there are no doubles, just add the pips.  
  o If the result of the dice roll is equal to or greater 
  than your "To hit" number (from above), then you made 
  the saving roll. If not you missed the roll.  
  • 
  If the result is doubles (any pair from two 1's to two 
  6's), add the pips, pick up the dice, and roll again. Keep 
  rolling and adding as long as you roll doubles 
  consecutively. When you throw the dice and do NOT 
  get doubles, make a grand total for the dice throws.  
  o If the grand total is equal to or greater than the “To 
  hit” number you found above, then you made the 
  saving roll. If not, then you missed it.  
  The text will tell you what to do if you make or miss a 
  particular saving roll, but generally it's a lot better to 
  make it than to miss! 
  
  T&T Abridged Rules 
  http://www.freedungeons.com/rules/ 
  MISSILE WEAPONS AND COMBAT 
  When a foe is big and nasty it is often best to try to kill it 
  at a distance. Missile weapons, when they hit the 
  target, can be devastating because the damage done is 
  intercepted by Armor alone, the target's Hit Point Total 
  is not subtracted from the damage you have done. An 
  arrow a day will keep the monsters away. 
  Hitting the target is the trick. The archer must make 
  a DEX saving roll, with the chart below providing the 
  “To hit” number. Pick the closest target size, cross 
  reference with range and let fly! 
  Target Size 
  Pointblank 
  0-5 yards 
  Near 
  6-50 
  yds 
  Far 
  51-
  100 
  yds 
  Extreme 
  101 + 
  yds 
  Dragon 
  20 
  25 
  30 
  35 
  Troll/man 
  25 
  35 
  45 
  55 
  Hobbit/child 
  30 
  45 
  60 
  75 
  Rabbit/rat 
  35 
  55 
  75 
  95 
  Coin 
  40 
  65 
  90 
  115 
   
  There is one more thing that needs to be adjusted 
  when using missile weapons. A character gets to add 
  his DEX personal adds in again. This reflects how 
  important DEX is in missile combat. If your character 
  has 2 adds from his DEX, for the purpose of missile 
  combat he has 4 adds. If he has -2 adds he will, 
  unfortunately, have -4 for missile combat. 
  The last detail is this. Just as the target gets no 
  combat roll against your arrow, if you don't kill the 
  target, and it is close enough to attack you in the round 
  you shot it, you will not get a combat roll. So soften 
  them up with arrows at long range, then fight hard with 
  a sword or spear if they get close. 
   
  MAGIC AND SPELL CASTING 
  Wizardly characters use magic in combat and in more 
  ordinary situations. In this game, magic is envisioned 
  as a psi-based conjuration or creation powered by the 
  magician's inner strength. A magician's Strength is 
  depleted when he or she casts magic. This cost is listed 
  following the spell name in The Spell Book in 
  parentheses. 
  Wizards may reduce the cost of spell casting by 
  using a magic staff or by gaining experience. A magic 
  staff reduces the cost of casting spell by the same 
  number as the level of the magic-user. Thus, a first 
  Level wizard using a staff may cast any first level spell 
  for one less ST point than that listed. 
  As a wizard survives his adventures, he or she 
  becomes more experienced and goes up in levels. 
  However, the magician will still wish to use lower level 
  spells. Because of his greater experience, a higher 
  level mage casts a lower level spell for 1 ST point less 
  for each level that spell is below the caster's level. (A 
  third level magic-user subtracts 2 from the cost of a first 
  level spell.) 
  These reductions can be combined. A third level 
  magic-user with a magic staff subtracts three points, 
  and the magician's own proficiency (being higher level 
  than the spell being cast) subtracts two. 
  No reduction permits any spell to be cast for less 
  than 1 point. All spells cost a minimum of 1 ST point to 
  cast - there must be something to get the spell started. 
  (The spell Detect Magic is an exception which only 
  requires that the wizard concentrate on detection.) 
  Strength expended in spell casting is not lost 
  forever. The magic-user replenishes lost Strength at the 
  rate of 1 ST point per full turn (about 10 minutes). In 
  these solitaires, magicians regain ST at 1 point per 
  numbered paragraph unless instructed otherwise. 
  Magic-users can cast only one spell per combat 
  round, and may not fight with weapons during that 
  same round. If a wizard is in close combat and chooses 
  to cast a spell such as a Vorpal Blade, he will have to 
  take the full brunt of his opponent's Hit Point Total 
  because, while casting magic, the mage will have 
  generated no Hit Point Total of his own. Combat spells 
  such as Take That, You Fiend and Blasting Power do 
  create a Hit Point Total. Other spells, such as Oh-Go-
  Away, divert the foe so no comparison Hit Point Totals 
  is needed (if the spell is successful). A careful reading 
  of the spell available should clarify your options. 
  All wizards start with all the Level 1 spells. A mage 
  may only buy more from the Wizards Guild, and only 
  after attaining the appropriate level himself. 
   
   
   
   
  
  T&T Abridged Rules 
  http://www.freedungeons.com/rules/ 
  THE SPELL BOOK 
  LEVEL 1: Requires minimum IQ 10, DEX 8. All beginning wizards know all these spells. 
  Detect Magic 
  (0) 
  Detects good and bad magic. 
  Lock Tight (1) 
  Locks any door for 3 turns. 
  Knock Knock 
  (2) 
  Unlocks locked doors. 
  Will-o-the-wisp 
  (1) 
  Lights up finger or staff in lieu of a torch. About 1 candlepower. Lasts 1 turn. 
  Oh There It Is 
  (4) 
  Usually detects concealed or invisible things or doors by surrounding them with a purple glow that 
  slowly fades. 
  Take That, 
  You Fiend (6) 
  Uses IQ as weapon, inflicting hits equal to caster's IQ. Must be directed at an individual foe. No effect 
  on inanimate objects. 
  Vorpal Blade 
  (5) 
  Doubles die roll for swords or daggers for one subsequent combat round. 
  Oh-Go-Away 
  (5) 
  Combines total of caster's IQ, LK and CHR to drive away foes with a lower Monster Rating or 
  equivalent attribute total. If spell fails, monster chases magic-user to the exclusion of his or her 
  comrades. 
   
  LEVEL 2: Requires minimum IQ 12, DEX 9. Each spell costs 500 g.p. (payable to the Wizards' Guild). 
  Omnipotent Eye 
  (5) 
  Provides more information about nature and/or level of magic on persons/objects. 
  Hidey Hole (10) 
  Makes user and his companions invisible for 3 turns. (Note: some solos treat this as a Level 1 
  spell.) 
  Cateyes (6) 
  Allows one to see in the dark for 3 turns. 
  Glue-You (8) 
  Impedes movement/travel of victim by ½ for 1 turn. In combat this means you get 2 combat rounds 
  to opponent's one. 
  Little Feets (8) 
  Rapid travel; doubles speed for 1 turn. In combat you get 2 rounds to opponent's 1. 
  Mirage (8) 
  Projects visual, non-auditory image as hallucination. Destroyed by physical contact. 
  Poor Baby (2 ST/1 
  CON) 
  Magical healing of wounds or injuries. Cannot raise CON above original level. 
  Whammy (10) 
  Triples die roll for any weapon for 1 subsequent combat round. 
  Magic Fangs 
  (1/combat round) 
  Changes belt or staff into small poisonous serpent with MR not greater than caster's CHR. Cannot 
  "communicate" with mage but will obey commands. Lasts as long as mage puts ST into it at time 
  of creation. Does not work on twigs or torches. 
   
  LEVEL 3: Requires minimum IQ 14, DEX 10. Cost 1000 g.p. each. 
  Curses Foiled 
  (7) 
  Removes evil spells and curses of lower orders. 
  Slush Yuck 
  (15) 
  Converts rock to mud/quicksand for 2 turns, up to 1000 cubic feet. Caster may dictate dimensions as 
  desired, but shape must be a regular geometric solid. 
  Rock-a-Bye 
  (11) 
  Puts monsters/foes to sleep for 1-6 turns (roll 1 die to determine) if caster's ST, IQ, and CHR total 
  exceed MR (or foe's ST, IQ and CHR total if rated). 
  Dis-Spell (11) 
  Negates magic of same or lower orders. 
  Blasting Power 
  (8) 
  Throws bolt/fountain of fire at foes. This blast gets same number of dice as user's level number, plus 
  caster's combat adds. 
  Freeze Pleeze 
  Throws sheet of ice at foes. Blast gets same number of dice as user's level number, plus caster's 
  
  T&T Abridged Rules 
  http://www.freedungeons.com/rules/ 
  (8) 
  combat adds. 
  Fly Me (7) 
  Allows user to fly (running speed) 1 turn. 
  Healing 
  Feeling (14) 
  Cures any kind of disease. 
   
  LEVEL 4: Requires minimum IQ 16, DEX 11. Cost 1500 g.p. each. 
  Too-Bad Toxin (7) 
  Cures the effect of any poison and nullifies further effects. Does not heal the wound from 
  weapon/fang that delivered the poison. 
  Wink-wing (14) 
  Allows one to transport oneself (only) up to 50' in direction of choice without crossing 
  intervening space. 
  Smog (11) 
  Projects cloud of poison gas at goes. If foes breathe, they lose half power or more. 
  Dum-Dum (8) 
  Reduces foe's IQ to 3 or, if spell fails for any reason, reduces caster's IQ to 3. 
  Double-double (18) 
  Doubles one Prime Attribute for up to 5 turns. When spell wears off, attribute is halved for same 
  number of turns. 
  Protective Pentagram 
  (12) 
  Raises a protective barrier 3' in diameter for 2 turns. No weapons or spells penetrate (in or out). 
  Upsidaisy (9) 
  Permits caster to levitate and move objects or beings up to caster's own weight for 1 full turn. 
   
  LEVEL 5: Requires minimum IQ 18, DEX 12. Cost 2000 g.p. each. 
  Mind Pox (39) 
  Causes mental confusion; the victim cannot attack or defend. Lasts 3 turns. Can affect any number 
  of beings up to level of caster. 
  Dear God (30) 
  Allows one to ask 3 yes-or-not questions of the Game Master, to be answered truthfully. 
  ESP (20) 
  Detects true intent of man or monster. 
  Second Sight 
  (25) 
  Allows one to distinguish beween illusion and reality for 1 turn. 
  Breaker 
  Breaker (35) 
  Causes any weapon or Armor to become so brittle it will shatter at the first impact. Any magic on that 
  weapon or Armor will make it immune to the spell. 
   
  LEVEL 6: Requires minimum IQ 20, DEX 13. Cost 2500 g.p. each. 
  Wall of Fire 
  (26) 
  Puts a sheet of flame up between caster and foes. Will deliver caster's IQ times his level to anyone 
  walking through the wall, unless the person is immune to fire. 
  Wall of Ice 
  (26) 
  Places a wall of ice between caster and foes. Will take caster's IQ times his level in hits to breech. 
  Wall of 
  Thorns (14) 
  Puts a wall of thorns up between caster and foe. It can be cut or burned down, but anyone walking 
  through it must make a LK saving roll at the caster's level to avoid falling asleep for 1-6 days. 
  Wall of 
  Stone (20) 
  Places an impassable wall of stone up between caster and foes. Must be chopped through to avoid. 
  Wall of Iron 
  (23) 
  Places a wall of iron between caster and foes. Impassable unless one can melt or warp iron. 
  All the walls are immobile and appear within reach of the caster. The walls must be a rectangle or square and cannot 
  exceed 1000 cubic feet. If not dispelled or destroyed it will vanish after a day. 
   
  LEVEL 7: Requires minimum IQ 22, DEX 14. Cost 3000 g.p. each. 
  Zappathingum (24) 
  Enchants any weapon to 3 times normal effectiveness. Lasts 1-6 hours. 
   
  LEVEL 8: Requires minimum IQ 24, DEX 15. Cost 3500 g.p. each. 
  Zapparmor (30) 
  Enchants any Armor or shield to 3 times normal protection. Lasts 1-6 hours. 
  
  T&T Abridged Rules 
  http://www.freedungeons.com/rules/ 
  Zombie Zonk 
  (36) 
  Creates zombies from corpses by doubling their ST and CON or MR. Lasts for 5 turns (50 minutes). 
  The zombies die if their master dies. 
   
  LEVEL 9: Requires minimum IQ 26, DEX 16. Cost 4000 g.p. each. 
  Medusa (30) 
  Turns flesh to unliving stone. 
  Death Spell 9 (40) 
  Kills the target if it cannot make a 9th level luck saving roll. 
   
  LEVEL 10: Requires minimum IQ 29, DEX 17. Cost 4500 g.p. each. 
  Hellbomb Bursts (36) 
  Disintegrates up to 100 cubic feet of anything. 
   
  LEVEL 11: Requires minimum IQ 30, DEX 18. Cost 5000 g.p. each. 
  Bigger is Better 
  (33) 
  Enlarges any creature. Roll one die and add one. Use that number to multiply the MR or and CON of 
  the creature. The effect lasts for one day. 
   
  There are other spells available to the wizards of the 
  world, but those listed above will allow you to work 
  through the solo adventures the best. For other spells 
  and more detailed descriptions of the spells above, 
  check the Tunnels & Trolls Rule Book. 
   
  TIME 
  Regular turns in Tunnels & Trolls, non-combat 
  paragraphs in the solo adventures, are 10 minutes in 
  length. Combat rounds are 2 minutes in length. Wizards 
  recover one Strength point per 10 minutes, and may 
  cast one spell per Combat Round. It is easy for a 
  wizard to tire himself out very quickly. Warriors may 
  attack once, either hand to hand or with missile 
  weapons, per combat round. Damage to a character's 
  CON is recovered at one point per day unless magic is 
  used to speed the healing process. 
   
  EXPERIENCE 
  Unlike other solo adventures, Tunnels & Trolls allows 
  characters to grow and pass from one adventure to 
  another. To do that characters earn experience points, 
  also known as adventure points. Adventure points are 
  earned for the following: 
  COMBAT: points equal to the MR or totalled IQ, 
  CON and of the vanquished foe. 
  SAVING ROLLS: points equal to the dice roll times 
  the level of the roll. (A 2nd level roll where the dice 
  yielded a total of 14 would give the character 28 a.p.'s). 
  CASTING MAGIC: points equal to the actual 
  strength used in spell casting. 
  GM AWARDS: Successfully completing a mission 
  or achieving a similar feat will be worth points and the 
  GM (Game Master) will state what the award is. The 
  minimum a.p.'s for any adventure in the solos will be 
  100 a.p.'s unless otherwise stated in the solo. 
  All characters start at 1st level and, as they collect 
  a.p.'s, progress up in levels. Below are the totals of 
  a.p.'s needed to reach the first 11 levels: 
  Level XP to Reach 
  1 
  0 
  2 
  1,000 
  3 
  3,000 
  4 
  7,000 
  5 
  15,000 
  6 
  25,000 
  7 
  45,000 
  8 
  70,000 
  9 
  100,000 
  10 
  140,000 
  11 
  200,000 
   
  Points needed to reach these levels are cumulative 
  Once a character has garnered enough points to 
  pass up to a new level he can modify one of his "prime 
  attributes". Below are the options he may use to modify 
  his attributes. 
  A. 
  Add the new level number to either ST or CON, or 
  ½ of level number to both. 
  B. 
  Add ½ the number to IQ or DEX or CHR 
  (exclusive, not inclusive). 
  C. 
  Add 2× the number to Luck. All fractions round 
  down. 
   
  By upping the attributes, through encounters in the solo 
  adventures and level raises, your character will have a 
  
  T&T Abridged Rules 
  http://www.freedungeons.com/rules/ 
  whole host of spells and weapons made available to 
  him. Money will allow him to buy Armor or those 
  weapons and spells, making him better able to face the 
  trials and tribulations of the solo adventures. Your 
  characters can pass from one solo to the next, earning 
  titles and treasure in a never ending heroic career. 
   
  A Short Table to Randomly Generate Treasure 
  (abridged from the T & T Rule Book) 
  When you are told to roll on the jewel generation table, 
  start by rolling 1 die to find out how big it is: 
  1 or 2: small (5× base value; 1 weight unit) 
  3 or 4: average (10× base value; 2 weight units) 
  5 or 6: large (20× base value; 4 weight units) 
   
  To find out what kind of gem it is, roll 2 dice: 
  2: 
  Emerald (base value 18 gold pieces) 
  3: 
  Sapphire (base value 16 gold pieces 
  4: 
  Pearl (base value 14 gold pieces) 
  5: 
  Topaz (base value 5 gold pieces) 
  6: 
  Aquamarine (base value 11 gold pieces) 
  7: 
  Amethyst (base value 6 gold pieces) 
  8: 
  Opal (base value 8 gold pieces) 
  9: 
  Garnet (base value 4 gold pieces) 
  10: 
  Jade (base value 12 gold pieces) 
  11: 
  Ruby (base value 15 gold pieces) 
  12: 
  Diamond (base value 17 gold pieces) 
   
  Multiply the gem's base value by its size multiplier to 
  get the jewel's value, the number of gold pieces it is 
  worth. 
   
   
  The rules above are condensed from the Tunnels & Trolls Rule Book. The Rule Book itself contains more weapons, 
  spells, character types, character races and other details that will enhance your play. We hope you will enjoy the 
  coming adventures, and we look forward to entertaining your character through the rest of the series. 
   
   
   
  
SOURCE: textdata/thevault/Tunnels & Trolls (osr)/Supplemental/TnT - Abridged Rules .pdf