TEXT:  
   
  TUNNELS & TROLLS™ 
  [6th Edition T&T, Date: 2001 by Outlaw Press.] 
   
  {This new addition to the rules was printed without express written permission of the owner FBI (Flying 
  Buffalo Inc.) and it should not be construed as a infringement upon the ownership of their held copyright and 
  trademark.} 
   
  A Sword-and-Sorcery Fantasy Role-Playing Game 
   
  THE BASIC GAME 
   
  It is important to explain the basic concept of the game as briefly as possible. Here it is. In an alternate world where 
  fantasy is alive and magic works (a world somewhat but not exactly similar to Tolkien's Middle Earth) there exist 
  numerous enchanted tunnel complexes (call them Dungeons or Underworlds if you wish) that are liberally loaded 
  with many types of treasure, and abundantly guarded by every imaginable form of monster, magic, and trap. 
  Generally speaking, the greater treasures and most powerful monsters are found further below the surface. Brave 
  men and women arm themselves and venture within the tunnels at risk of body and soul to seek treasure and 
  experience. Those who survive and return from such expeditions will increase in experience and wealth to hitherto 
  undreamed-of heights of power and glory over a long period of time. Every time your character escapes from a 
  tunnel alive, you may consider yourself a winner. The higher the level and the more wealth your character attains, 
  the better you are doing in comparison to all the other players. 
   
  In order to play the game, it is necessary to do the following things first: 
   
  1) Someone must create (dig) and stock a dungeon with monsters, magic, and treasure. The person who does that 
  has godlike powers over his or her own dungeons, but is expected to be fair to the other players. The Game Master, 
  or GM (also referred to from time to time as the Dungeon Master, or DM) may not play as a character inside his or 
  her own dungeon. 
   
  2) Create and name the fantasy characters who will explore the dungeon. 
   
  3) Arm and provision these characters so that they will have some kind of chance of getting down into the dungeon 
  and back out alive. Instructions for the above operations, and for combating monsters and compiling experience (in 
  points) follow. 
   
  Tunnels & Trolls is a game of limited information. Individual players cannot see the whole board (or dungeon map). 
  Only the GM knows what is on his map, and tells the players what they can see and observe around them. They, in 
  turn, tell the GM what actions they take, what special search procedures they use, and anything else that may be 
  relevant to the situation. Unless you have a GM who is kind enough to set everything up for you in miniatures, it is 
  vitally important to keep a good idea of your surroundings in mind. Draw your own maps if you must, or feel free to 
  ask the GM to draw you a rough map of what the immediate environment looks like. 
   
  Characters and players should speak for themselves. But, with everyone trying to talk at once a game can rapidly 
  degenerate into a shouting match (that can be fun sometimes, too), so it is recommended that the GM keep the 
  number of players in his party small - two or three players with up to four characters apiece is ideal. When it is 
  necessary for a GM to try and cope with more than three players, it may be necessary to limit the number of 
  characters they can use at one time, and/or to invoke some form of parliamentary procedure to determine who gets 
  to talk when. 
   
  Hint to the Game Master: do not allow one player to dominate play, even if that player has all the best characters - 
  that will make the game less interesting for the other players. The game will be more enjoyable for all if everyone in 
  it participates. When there is doubt about how the delving party is arrayed or what they would do, the GM should 
  
   
   
  query each player separately for each character. If a situation arises where the GM wants the spontaneous reactions 
  of each player or character, he may ask them to write out their next set of orders and give it to him without 
  consulting any other player. The occasional use of such devices keeps the players on their mental “toes” and adds a 
  bit of suspense and surprise to the game. 
   
  CREATING CHARACTERS 
   
  The Tunnels & Trolls solitaire games provide the means for you to play the part of an adventurous hero in mystical, 
  magical times, and in order to be a player in T&T you will need one or more (probably more) player characters. 
  Such an adventurer seeks wealth, fame, and glory in ancient citadels filled with monsters and treasures galore. To 
  play this game, you will need some rough paper, a pencil or pen, and a number of six-sided dice (at least three). You 
  might find index cards useful, and there may be occasions where you are asked to use an ordinary deck of cards. 
  You create these characters yourself in a semirandom fashion - that is, their beginning attributes are randomly 
  arrived at, but you determine such things as character type, kindred, sex, name, choice of weapons, and all those 
  small details that will individualize your character. 
   
  CREATING YOUR ADVENTURER  
   
   
  Each adventurer is defined by “Prime Attributes”: Strength, Mystic, Intelligence, Luck, Constitution, Dexterity, 
  Charisma, and Speed. They defin e the character’s basic innate abilities. Other details, like the character’s name, 
  sex, hair and eye color kindred, character type, round a character out, but the “Prime Attributes” are the factors that 
  make the game work. They determine its innate abilities: what weapons it can use effectively, how many languages 
  it can speak, how much punishment it can take in combat, etc. Each attribute will be explained fully below. 
   
  First you need to know how to determine these prime attributes. That's what the three dice are for. For each of the 
  prime attributes roll three six-sided dice and write down the total obtained. You would be well advised to write them 
  down in pencil, as the numbers are variable and may change as the character has adventures. Repeat the roll for each 
  attribute listed. 
   
  STRENGTH (ST) is the ability to exert force - lifting, shoving, etc. Strength limits your choice of weapons and 
  tells you how much junk (measured in weight units, see below) the character can move around. If ST ever falls to 0 
  or below your character is dead. You must also remember weapons have strength requirements to use. 
   
  MYSTIC (MC) (also wrongly called Power) is the power every character has within themselves which to tap into 
  magical energies or in other words their character’s latent magical ability. This attribute is never adjusted by race or 
  size. Only Wizards and Rogues are allowed to tap into their Mystic power. The Mystic stat is also the number of 
  spell points a character has to cast spells. If MC ever falls to 0 or below your character is unconscious for at least 1 
  hour. Mystic points expended during the adventure in spell casting will be recovered at a rate of 1 point per turn of 
  rest. 
   
  INTELLIGENCE (IQ) measures a character’s ability to reason, solve problems, and remember well, etc. It is also 
  a factor in language ability. All humans start out knowing the Common Tongue. For every intelligence point over 
  12, a character may learn another language. You can choose these for yourself, or roll 4 times on the Language 
  Table. 
   
  LUCK (LK) is the ability to be in the right place at the right time, or to put something else in the right place at the 
  right time. It is useful in avoiding traps, striking lucky blows with weapons, and gambling of all sorts. The Luck 
  attribute is typically used in making saving rolls (fully explained in Saving Rolls). 
   
  CONSTITUTION (CON) is the general measure of a character’s health. It is also the measure of endurance and 
  how much punishment the body can absorb before it dies. Hits taken in combat are subtracted from Constitution. If 
  CON ever goes to 0, the character dies. 
   
  DEXTERITY (DEX) refers to manual dexterity and general agility. Dexterity is also used to calculate 
  
   
   
  marksmanship for the use of missile weapons. See the marksmanship table. 
   
  CHARISMA (CHR) measures personal attractiveness and leadership ability and force of personality. Measures 
  personal attractiveness and leadership ability. It is not just a measure of good looks, but most often it is treated as 
  such. Stronger personalities will have higher Charisma scores. A high score does not necessarily mean the person is 
  nice. Fearsomeness, beauty, confidence, and kindness can all lead to high Charisma scores. Monster characters, 
  when rated with this attribute, are rated in negative numbers. 
   
  SPEED (SPD) is how fleet of foot and how responsive a character is. Speed is the only thing standing between 
  many adventurers and the monsters pursuing them.  
   
  Each turn, characters may have the option of moving a certain distance on the GM’s map. Although many T&T 
  adventures are carried out in tunnels with moderately level stone floors, if you get into an outdoor adventure, the 
  GM should take terrain and manner of travel into consideration. 
   
  Focusing in on individual characters, you may wish to determine a SPEED rating, which is determined the same 
  way one finds Prime Attributes, i.e. roll 3 dice and record the total. This number should not change in the way Prime 
  Attributes might (unless by GM's magic, in which case anything goes). The length of a person's legs does not change 
  much as he or she becomes more experienced in the ways of the world. This SPEED rating (abbreviated ‘SP’) also 
  determines a character’s reaction time. 
   
  Stone and dirt floors are not completely level. Dungeons are rarely well-lit at the best of times - torches and lanterns 
  cast a fair amount of light, but not nearly as much as full sunlight. Further, most characters (those who expect to 
  survive) will be carrying weapons, armor, heavy boots and clothing, a pack, and possibly more. 
   
  Taking all the above items into consideration, normal walking speed in a dungeon will not be as fast as you or I 
  could walk to the local quickserve market. Moreover, if dungeon characters are looking for tripwires, secret 
  passages, and other traps and tricks, their speed will be further reduced. The chart below will help you determine 
  how fast a character may go in feet per minute. 
   
  SPEED TABLE 
                                                               Normal 
                                        Looking          dungeon 
                                        carefully            speed 
  Carrying ½  or more 
  (SP × 10) 
  (SP × 10) 
  weight possible in                2 
  dim light 
   
  Carrying 1/2 or less 
  (SP × 20) 
  (SP × 20) 
  weight possible in                 2 
  dim light 
   
  Unladen, full light 
  (SP × 30) 
  (SP × 30) 
                                             2 
   
  In the chart, ‘×’ is a multiplication symbol ‘SP’ refers to the character’s rolled-up SPEED rating. 
   
  Movement 
   
  Each turn, the characters will travel a certain distance on the map. Obviously, this will depend both on terrain and 
  the manner of travel. A lot of this has to be left to the GM’s discretion, but here is a guide: 
   
  WALKING: 200 feet per minute  
  RUNNING: 600 feet per minute  
  FLYING: 1,000 feet per minute 
   
  
   
   
  Forest or rough ground will cut speed by half; heavy forest or swamp  
   
  will reduce it to 1/3. Darkness reduces speed by half; this is halved again if you have no torches. (For nocturnal 
  monsters, such as night-gaunts and orcs, this is reversed; daylight, if it can be tolerated at all, halves speed.) 
   
  Flight is slowed by darkness (or light), but not by the nature of the ground below, except that forest, water, etc., 
  prevent takeoff and landing. 
   
  Aquatic creatures swim at walking speed. 
   
  When humans are fleeing from monsters, or vice versa, check the SPEED column of the MONSTER TABLE to 
  determine whether the monsters can outrun the humans. When fleeing from something faster, a character must make 
  his saving roll to escape, or turn and fight. 
   
  A combat turn should be considered two minutes long. Game turns may be considered ten minutes long. The GM 
  may wish to alter this in any of several ways - fine, but make sure all players are playing in the same time-scale. 
   
  The whole question of speed and movement is highly subjective. Game masters should strive for playability rather 
  than realism, should the two considerations conflict. 
   
  AREA’S OF CHARACTER CREATION 
   
  COMBAT ADDS: also called Personal Adds, should be mentioned briefly at this point. When should be mentioned 
  briefly at this point. When fighting, a character receives a bonus for exceptional ST, LK, and/or DEX. ‘Exceptional’ 
  is any attribute over 12; the bonus is one point for each attribute point over 12 (i.e., Thorin the Spiteful’s Strength of 
  13 gets him +1 for his personal adds). However, if ST, LK, or DEX is exceptionally low (any attribute less than 9) a 
  character has what is known as Negative Adds, or ‘subtracts’ (Thorin the Spiteful poor dexterity of 6 gives him a -3 
  in personal adds). Note that a character can have both negative and positive adds that cancel out to a single number 
  which indicates his overall unusual ability. In the case of Thorin the Spiteful, his total Personal Adds are -2 (his 
  average Luck of 10 doesn’t alter things either direction). How these adds affect his combat will be explained in The 
  Combat Section. 
   
  To continue the explanation of the headings on the cards, we move to: 
   
  GOLD: or G.P. (short for “gold pieces” called Gold Crowns in the city of Khazan). This is the measure of a 
  character’s personal wealth at any time. When starting a fresh character you have some money with which to buy 
  weapons, armor, and other provisions. Roll the 3 dice again and multiply by 10 for the number of gold pieces your 
  character possesses at the moment he first comes to your attention. The character will probably spend most of this 
  capital equipping himself for his first dungeon trip, but if he's lucky, he’ll come back home with more. The number 
  under GOLD could easily be negative if the character owes money. A character need not carry all his wealth on him 
  at all times. He can leave it with a friend, bury it in a secret location, put it in a bank or whatever he chooses. All 
  things considered, it is better to be rich than poor in this game. 
   
  ADVENTURE POINTS: (also called Experience Points) is of course blank at the start; these points are awarded by 
  the Game Master during the course of the character’s adventures. The experience points accumulate from game to 
  game, and are the real indicator of your success in T&T. 
   
  WEAPONS: List here all the weapons your character owns. It also helps to keep track of how many dice the 
  weapon gets, its range if it is a missile weapon, and if there is anything special about it, like an enchantment. 
   
  ARMOR: List by type or piece the armor and/or shields a character is using, and how many hits it will take. Shields 
  count as armor although they require a minimum Strength and Dexterity to wield. 
   
  LANGUAGES: List all the languages your character can speak. In earlier editions of T&T, if a character got an IQ 
  boost of 10 points, he suddenly developed the ability to be fluent in 10 more languages. The Language Chart is a 
  
   
   
  somewhat more logical means of finding time and means to learn languages. Thorin the Spiteful rolled 4 times on 
  the Language Chart and rolled Common twice. However, sometime in his past he’s also managed to pick up Elvish 
  and Orcish. 
   
  MAGIC: Characters should have listed here any magical implements they manage to pick up, and what they do. At 
  the start, Fang has none. 
   
  OTHER: Here you write anything else the character buys (steals, finds, or is given) to equip himself before going 
  into a dungeon. You may choose to write these things on the back of the card instead, but be sure it is written in 
  before the active part of the game begins - you may know that you’re wearing alligatorskin thigh-high boots, but if 
  you don't have it written down, the Game Master has every right to treat you as if you were barefoot in his cactus 
  room... Also, a character’s belongings may alter during the course of play, so be sure to keep an accurate accounting 
  of whatever he picks up or loses. You may also wish to add a few other items to your character card that will help 
  define him in your mind, like height and weight. 
   
  For HEIGHT and WEIGHT roll 3 dice again, and consult the Size and Weight Chart. 1 rolled an 11 for Thorin the 
  Spiteful’s height and a 9 for his weight. Consulting the chart for humans, I learn that Thorin the Spiteful is 5'8" and 
  160 lbs. 
   
  I need to know how much weight Thorin the Spiteful can carry - I don’t want to equip him with plate armor and find 
  he cannot move. Therefore it is a good idea to note WEIGHT POSSIBLE and WEIGHT CARRIED. 
   
  WEIGHT POSSIBLE: is a simple function of Strength - a character can lift and carry 10 times as many pounds as 
  he has Strength points (or 100 weight units per Strength point, as 10 weight units equal 1 lbs.). Thorin the Spiteful’s 
  capacity is 130 lbs. (1300 weight units). At full load he could carry that much weight for as many game turns as he 
  has Constitution points; then he will collapse from exhaustion. Half that much (65 lbs.) he could carry twice as long. 
  Characters seldom need to carry that much weight for a long time period without a rest. Unwounded characters can 
  lift up to twice their maximum weight possible for one to six minutes (the time might be determined by the roll of 1 
  six-sided die). 
   
  WEIGHT CARRIED: is the total in weight units or lbs. (choose whichever you prefer to work in, but be 
  consistent) which the chara cter is actually carrying around with him. Thorin the Spiteful hasn’t purchased any 
  weapons or armor yet, so the only weight he has with him is the 80 gold pieces he came into being with. Since every 
  coin - gold, silver, or copper - weighs exactly one weight unit, Fang is carrying 80 weight units. 
   
  THE MAIN CHARACTER RACES 
   
  The known world of Tunnels & Trolls is largely populated by humans, but the world is a pretty big place, after all. 
  At some time in your tunnel travelling adventures you may find it to y our liking to create a character of some other 
  mythic type than Human. 
   
  The presence of Elves, Dwarves, and the like can add a certain spice not, found when playing only Humans. To aid 
  the Tunnel Trekker, the following is a list of recommended methods for formulating the humanoid kindred of men. 
   
  The next thing you’ll want to decide is whether or not you want your character to be a human or to be one of the 
  other ancient races which inhabit this magical world. It is recommended that you start out with a human, but 
  especially in some of the more difficult adventures, you may want to create a character from one of the tougher 
  kindreds until you develop a more experienced human. 
   
  (×) represents the multiplication symbol. At all times the number of dice rolled to obtain attributes remains 3, just as 
  in human character creation. 
   
  ELVES IQ and DEX × 2, CHR × 2, CON × 2/3 All other attributes × 1. 
  FAIRIES 
  ST × 1/4 , DEX × 3/2, IQ and MC ×1, LK × 3/2,  
   
   
  CON × 1/4, CHR x 2 All other attributes x 1. 
  
   
   
  DWARVES 
  ST and CON × 2, CHR × 2/3. All other attributes × 1. 
  HOBBIT 
  ST ×1/2, DEX ×3/2, MC ×1/2, All other attributes × 1. 
  LEPRECHAUN ST ×1/2, DEX ×3/2, CON ×3/2, MC ×3/2. All other attributes × 1. 
  TROLLS 
  ST and CON × 3. Other attributes × 1. 
   
   
  (Trolls are monsters, and although some “good” trolls can be found.) 
   
  As you can see, no single race is unconditionally better than any other race. Humans are the most often used, but it 
  does not always mean they are the most favored race. Generally the scenario dictates the race of the adventurer need, 
  with campaigns featuring a wide variety of races. All races are accepted in the Tunnels & Trolls World of Kaball. 
   
  The humanoid kindreds give evidence of the unusual abilities mostly by their unusual Prime Attributes. However 
  (and it may only be rumor), Dwarves do seem to have an uncanny ability to determine the value of jewels and gems 
  by simply looking at them; some say Dwarves can even sniff out large concentrations of gold if they can get near 
  enough in the first place. 
   
  The pointy-eared Elves might be able to hear just a little better than a Human, but rumors that they can see to the 
  farthest horizon, or see in the dark are entirely unfounded. Although Elves and Dwarves once were bitter enemies 
  and some individuals still keep old hatreds burning, by and large the two races get along moderately well these days. 
   
  Fairies, as could be expected, can fly there's nothing more useless than a walking fairy. That is unless you want him 
  or her to carry as much as possible - any fairy loaded to one weight-unit more than half its carrying capacity is too 
  overburdened to fly. (Note that this is an alteration from earlier editions where any fairy with a ST greater than 2 
  couldn't fly. Logically, no creature built like a fairy could fly - it must be magic, so fairies can now fly, regardless of 
  strength. just don't give them too much to carry around. The Mystic power is where their magic ability comes from.) 
   
  Hobbits are generally good at stealth and hiding themselves effectively, when the need arises. As for Leprechauns... 
   
  Well, once Leprechauns were the most misunderstood character race in T&T, and this despite their engaging 
  presence in Western mythos. We hope more players will find the new Leprechauns of sufficient interest to insure 
  their presence in dungeons everywhere. Leprechauns are essentially a peaceful people, but gold holds the same 
  allure for them as for the other races: hence their desire to descend into dungeons. 
   
  All Leprechauns should be classified as wizards - no rogues and no warriors. This is not from lack of weapons 
  training in their youth, but because no Leprechaun would have anything to do with a weapon larger than a cobbler's 
  awl or a dinner knife. (Therefore Leprechauns function under the same rules for weapons-use as trained wizards - 
  nothing larger than two-die weapons in combat.) Leprechauns are inherently magical, however. and it is part of their 
  genetic heritage to be able to perform a spell akin to the Teleport spell (See Level 4 Teleport spell) for a strength 
  cost of only 5. However there are. no wizards' schools in the land of the Leprechauns (and they encourage none), so 
  Leprechauns must purchase all other spells they wish to learn, just as a rogue is compelled to (the Wizards’ Guild 
  won't teach Leprechauns because the Leprechaun lord's won't allow the Guild to open branch offices in their area ... 
  ). 
   
  Alternate Characters Races 
   
  Kindred                  ST  
  DX  
  IQ  
  LK  
  CON  
  CH  
  MC  
  SPD  
  HT         WT 
  Balrog   
  ×10  
  ×2  
  ×2  
  ×1  
  ×7  
  ×5  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×3  
  ×4 
  Basilisk   
  ×1/4  
  ×2/3  
  ×2  
  ×1  
  ×1/4  
  ×1/2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1/10  
  ×1/10 
  Brownie                 ×1/4  
  ×1  
  ×3/4  
  ×1  
  ×3  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1/10  
  ×1/20 
  Centaur   
  ×3  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×3  
  ×1  
  ×1/2  
  ×3/2  
  ×3/2  
  ×5 
  Chimera                  ×4  
  max 3 
  ×6/5  
  ×1/4  
  ×3  
  ×5  
  ×1/4  
  ×1  
  ×4/3  
  ×9/2 
  Demon   
  ×9/2  
  ×3/2  
  ×2  
  ×1/4  
  ×9/2  
  ×5  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×3/2  
  ×2 
  Dragon   
  ×25  
  ×3  
  ×5  
  ×1/2  
  ×50  
  ×5  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ---  
  ×50 
  Dwarf   
  ×2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×2  
  ×2/3  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×2/3  
  ×7/8 
  Elf  
   
  ×1  
  ×3/2  
  ×3/2  
  ×1  
  ×2/3  
  ×2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×11/10  ×1 
  Fairy  
   
  ×1/4  
  ×3/2  
  ×1  
  ×3/2  
  ×1/4  
  ×2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1/10  
  ×1/20 
  Giant  
   
  ×5  
  ×1  
  ×1/2  
  ×1  
  ×5  
  ×5  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×5  
  ×10 
  
   
   
  Giant Spider  
  ×2  
  ×2  
  ×1  
  ×1/2  
  ×1  
  ×4  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1/2 
  Gnome   
  ×2/3  
  ×1  
  ×3/2  
  ×3/2  
  ×2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×2/3  
  ×2/3 
  Goblin   
  ×3/4  
  ×3/2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×3/4  
  ×1/2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×3/4  
  ×3/4 
  Gorgon   
  ×1  
  ×3/2  
  ×1  
  ×3/4  
  ×5/4  
  ×3  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1 
  Griffin   
  ×10  
  max 3  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×10  
  ×5  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×3/2  
  ×9 
  Gremlin                   ×1/2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×3/2  
  ×1/2  
  ×1/2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1/3  
  ×1/3 
  Groxnar                   ×3/2  
  ×3/2  
  ×1  
  ×3/4  
  ×3/2  
  ×1/2  
  ×1/4  
  ×1  
  ×5/4  
  ×5/3 
  Half-Orc*  
  ×3/2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×3/2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×5/4  
  ×3/2 
  Harpy   
  ×3/2  
  max 3  
  ×2/3  
  ×1  
  ×3/2  
  ×2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1/2 
  Hobbit   
  ×1/2  
  ×3/2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×2  
  ×1  
  ×1/2  
  ×1  
  ×1/2  
  ×2/3 
  Human   
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1 
  Hydra   
  ×15  
  max 3  
  max 9  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×5  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×2  
  ×3 
  Lamia   
  ×5/2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1/2  
  ×2  
  ×2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×3/2 
  Leprechaun  
  ×1/2  
  ×3/2  
  ×1  
  ×3/2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×3/2  
  ×1  
  ×1/3  
  ×1/4 
  Living Skeleton  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1 
  Living Statue  
  ×2  
  ×1/3  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×10  
  ×4  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×10 
  Lizard Man  
  ×3/2  
  ×3/2  
  ×1/2  
  ×1  
  ×2  
  ×1/2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×11/10  ×3/2 
  Naga  
   
  ×2  
  ×2  
  ×3  
  ×1  
  ×3  
  ×1  
  ×3  
  ×1/2  
  ×1  
  ×1 
  Manticore  
  ×4  
  max 3  
  ×3/4  
  ×3/4  
  ×4  
  ×5  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×4/3  
  ×2 
  Mer-person  
  ×3/2  
  ×3/2  
  ×5/4  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1 
  Minotaur  
  ×5/2  
  ×3/4  
  ×3/4  
  ×1  
  ×5/2  
  ×5  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×5/4  
  ×3/2 
  Ogre  
   
  ×2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×2  
  ×3/2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×3/2  
  ×2 
  Orc  
   
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1 
  Primitive (N/thal)  ×3/2  
  ×3/4  
  ×3/4  
  ×1  
  ×2  
  ×1  
  1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1 
  Satyr  
   
  ×3/4  
  ×3/2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×3/4  
  ×3/4  
  ×3/4 
  Scurvexi  
  ×2/3  
  ×3/2  
  ×3/2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1 (-2”)  ×5/6 
  Shoggoth  
  ×20  
  ×1  
  max 5  
  ×1  
  ×50  
  ×4  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×5  
  ×10 
  Sphinx   
  ×3/2  
  max 3  
  ×2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×2 
  Sylvan Elf  
  ×2/3  
  ×2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×2/3  
  ×2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×2/3  
  ×1/2 
  Troll  
   
  ×3  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×3  
  ×4  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×2  
  ×4 
  Unicorn   
  ×2  
  max 3  
  ×1  
  ×3/2  
  ×3  
  ×3  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×2 
  Warg  
   
  ×5/2  
  max 3  
  ×3/4  
  ×1  
  ×5/2  
  ×2  
  ×1  
  ×1 
   ---  
  ×3/2 
  Wurm   
  ×15  
  max 3  
  ×5  
  ×1/2  
  ×25  
  ×5  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ---  
  ×25 
  Wyvern   
  ×3  
  max 3  
  ×3  
  ×1/2  
  ×5  
  ×4  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×3/2  
  ×2 
   
  * Half-orcs are a strange breed. Neither orcs nor humans fully accept them. Most parents abandon these cross breeds 
  at birth. Still those that survive are toughened by the experience. They are muscular, physically intimidating 
  creatures. All half-orcs are sterile.  
   
  Created Kindred 
   
  These kindred are not born as much as created. Traditional reproduction is impossible for all but the were-creatures. 
  Weres can reproduce, but it does not guarantee their curse will pass to their offspring. Vampires can infect others 
  turning them in to vampires, but they are sterile creatures. Most kindred distrust these created kindred, and several 
  seek their total annihilation. Mostly humans suffer from these afflictions. It is up to the GM whether to allow 
  different kindreds or even starting characters to be one of the created kindred. 
   
  Kindred                 ST  
  DX  
  IQ  
  LK  
  CON  
  CH  
  MC  
  SPD  
  HT        WT 
  Ghost   
  ---  
  ---  
  ×1  
  ×2  
  ×1  
  ×4  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  --- 
  Ghoul   
  ×3  
  ×1  
  ×1/4  
  ×1/2  
  ×3  
  ×4  
  ×2/3  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1 
  Mummy                 ×2  
  max 3  
  max 3  
  max 10  ×3  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1 
  Vampire                  ×5/2  
  ×1  
  ×3/2  
  ×3/2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1 
  Werewolf  
  ×5/2  
  max 3  
  ×1/2  
  ×2/3  
  ×3  
  ×4  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ---  
  ×1 
  Zombie   
  ×2  
  max 3  
  max 3  
  ×1/4  
  ×3  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×1 
   
  Animal Kindred 
  
   
   
   
  Kindred                 ST  
  DX  
  IQ  
  LK  
  CON  
  CH  
  MC  
  SPD  
  HT          WT 
  Giant Slug  
  ×2  
  max 3  
  max 3  
  ×1/4  
  ×10  
  ×1/2  
  ×1  
  ×1  
  ×2 
  ×10 
   
  Half-Breeds 
   
  In magically charged environments almost any kind of crossbreeding can occur. Half-breeds tend to be rare. 
  Chances are that most half-breeds will be the offspring of dungeon-delving or adventuring characters. In addition, 
  only logical creatures could breed together (fairies and giants do not cut it.) To create a half-breed, roll 3d6. If you 
  do not roll triples, the child is not a noticeable half-breed. Roll one more die: if it comes up even, the child will 
  resemble its mother; odd and it will resemble its father. If you roll triples (other than three 6’s), the child is a half-
  breed. To determine its attributes, average the attribute modifiers of the parents. If you have rolled an 18 on three 
  dice, you have a super breed. This child has the greatest attribute modifier of its parents per attribute. (A dwarf’s 
  CON modifier of x 2 will take effect, rather than the elf’s CON modifier of  x 2/3). These superbreeds are usually 
  sterile.  
   
  One other note should be made. If dear old Dad or Mom, has received some tremendous magical gift (like the ability 
  to shapeshift), this is not passed on to the children. A family curse will follow bloodlines. Of course, all children are 
  first level characters and must be rolled up as such.  
   
  CHARACTER TYPES 
   
  The final decision needed to create your character is what kind of background and training he or she has had. This 
  background determines how the character makes a living and a great deal more. A character must fall within one of 
  the two categories listed below. Each category has advantages and disadvantages, strengths and weaknesses. Read 
  through them all, and then decide. (A recommendation: if this is the first time you have played T&T, try a human 
  warrior to begin with.) 
   
  PROFESSIONAL: An added character type, Professionals are highly skilled in their chosen profession. This 
  assumes the character was apprenticed at a young age. Most of these types are not delvers. Normally, they are 
  content to live their life out earning honest gold by providing goods and services. Only extraordinary circumstances 
  force a professional out into the cold harsh world of delving. 
   
  Professionals have no ability to perform magic and no warrior bonuses, but may use any weapons as per a Rogue. In 
  addition, Professionals may add their level to the die roll of any saving rolls relating to their known skills. 
  Professionals should have specialized skills no one els e has. 
   
  Warriors are effectively a specialized type of professional. 
   
  WARRIOR: A warrior understands force first, subtlety last. Warriors are trained in using weapons and armor to 
  their best advantage, and get twice the normal listed protection from armor and shields they use. While warriors can 
  use most magical artifacts they find, warriors cannot cost any magic (like being color-blind, it is simply beyond their 
  abilities). If a character’s ST is greater than his IQ or LK, that character could make a good warrior. 
   
  * 
  Offensive bonus. Warriors gain a +1 Personal Add bonus per level . Unarmored and unarmed, they are no 
  more formidable than a wizard with equal Personal Adds.  
  * 
  Defensive bonus. Someone who has practiced combat all of their lives should have some knowledge of 
  dodging and parrying beyond the average man. They will be able to fight in minimal armor and still have an edge. 
  Not equipment dependent. Currently, a warrior without his armor is without any advantage.  
  * 
  Training with weapons. The warrior will be able use the thigh bone he found on the floor to beat the 
  stuffing out of that goblin, because he knows how to get the most out any weapon, even if he has to improvise.  
  * 
  Unarmed combat. A warrior will be a formidable fighter, even if he has to beat his foes with his bare fists.  
  * 
  Improves with experience. A warrior doesn't have the vast array of spells that the magic-throwing types 
  do. They spend their whole lives fighting. As they get more and more experienced (gain levels), their martial 
  prowess should increase. Every type gets Personal Adds increases with raised attributes. The warrior deserves an 
  
   
   
  extra edge to reflect that his specialty, his entire life, is combat.  
   
  Warriors fight. That is all they do and they should do it well. A warrior may specialize further with missile weapons 
  or melee weapons. A melee specialist gains twice as many melee Adds as their level, but gain no extra Missile Adds 
  due to experience level. A missile specialist can add their level to their saving roll to hit the target, but lose all extra 
  melee Adds (they still get the extra Missile Adds for their experience level). 
   
  WIZARD: Wizards (also called magicians, mages, magic-users, and sorcerers) are those individuals that had the 
  innate ability and received the training to control the psi-forces that power the arcane world of magic. Only 
  youngsters with a reasonably good Intelligence and Mystic power (IQ & MC of 10 or better) and decent Dexterity 
  (DEX of 8 or better) will be trained by the elder wizards of the all-pervasive Wizard’s Guild. All the Level 1 spells 
  (detailed later) are the basic heritage of wizard characters. Spells beyond that level must be purchased from the 
  Wizard’s Guild or discovered while adventuring. Wizards can use a magic staff to reserve their energies while 
  casting magic. 
   
  Because wizards spent their youth learning magic, they are inept at using weapons. Only small weapons like 
  daggers, and appropriate weapons like quarterstaves may be used by wizards. Wizards do get combat adds, the same 
  as any other character type, and may wear what armor they choose although they get only the armor’s listed value in 
  protection. If IQ or MC (Mystic power) is greater than either ST or LK, the character could make a good wizard. 
  Don't forget a wizard must have an IQ & MC of 10 or more, and a DEX of 8 or more to begin with. 
   
  Wizards are only trained with weapons that do 2 dice of damage or less. The wizard mindset finds training with 
  other weapons a waste of time, effort, and power. This view in ingrained by the Wizards’ Guild and the individual 
  wizard’s desire for power. Those who manage to avoid this mindset become Rogues instead. If a wizard picks up 
  skill with any weapon doing more than 2 dice damage, their magic skills suffer. As long as a wizard has even skill 
  level 1 with any forbidden weapon skill, that wizard is treated as a rogue for purposes of magic only (can cast no 
  magic above level 7 and loses use of Mystic reducing techniques including practice), and does not gain any rogue 
  benefits. Once the weapon skill is forgotten the old abilities may return (at GM’s discretion). 
   
  Because magic is a developed psi-power instead of a god - or goddess-given ability, wizards may wear “cold iron” if 
  they so choose - any armor or shield they can carry and afford. If a wizard has to fall back on weapons - 
  quarterstaves or daggers - he or she does get applicable Personal Adds for being strong, lucky, or dexterous. (There 
  are, of course, no personal adds applicable for magical attacks). 
   
  Wizards are modelled on Tolkien’s Gandalf, or Merlin of Arthur’s England. Magic is their best weapon and 
  protection, and only a wizard has an understanding of magic sufficient to create new spells. At that, it takes a wizard 
  at least of 5th level to invent new spells - and this should only be done with the agreement of fellow players as to the 
  spell’s appropriateness, logic and suitable level and strength cost assigned. 
   
  ROGUE: are characters who have the psi-ability to use magic, but for one reason or another never received the 
  training for it. Their IQ or MC may have begun too low for acceptance by the Wizards’ Guild; they may have been 
  street urchins without sufficient capital to pay the entrance fees; they may have been brought up in a backwater 
  village too small to bother with such things; they may have been a high lord’s younger child too lazy to stick to the 
  intense studies of either weapons or magic. 
   
  To correct some misconceptions, the name Rogue is simply shortened from Rogue Wizard. The term originated to 
  describe those wizards who would not join the guild when it formed long ago. The term now describes anyone who 
  has an aptitude for magic, but who was not fortunate enough to have received training. Despite having Luck as their 
  main attribute and being jacks-of-all-trades, rogues are not necessarily thieves. They are untrained wizards. The lack 
  of intensive training in magic means that they can learn a little about anything. They are much better with weapons, 
  even if they could not train as much as warriors.  
   
  I should also point out that when the book says that rogues must learn all their spells from PC wizards because the 
  Guild will not teach them, it means ALL their spells. Rogues receive no spells at all when starting out. It seems that 
  unless the Wizards’ Guild got to indoctrinate you from a young age and teach you its outlook, it will not teach you 
  even after you learn the rudiments on your own. It is also possible that many rogues were former apprentices in the 
  
   
   
  guild, kicked out early on and ostracized forever after. 
   
  Rogues have the ability to use any weapon of their choice (which they have the attributes sufficient to be able to 
  handle) as well as the ability to learn magic from anyone they can find who will teach them how. However, rogues 
  will never find weapons and armor to serve them quite as well as they do warriors (rogues do not get the "double" 
  effect of armor) and rogues must learn all their spells from a wizard. 
   
  In learning spells, the rogue learns the individual skills necessary, but will never have magic become second nature - 
  thus no rogue can invent new spells. Furthermore, the use of magic staffs by rogues is impossible, as their utilization 
  requires more understanding of the nature of magic than any rogue will ever obtain. 
   
  Also, rogues must cast spells at the full listed strength cost, even if the rogue advances in levels. If a rogue casts a 
  given spell at a higher level, he must pay the full maximum MC cost. In addition, any magic above 7th level 
  becomes too complicated for a wizard to teach any rogue, even with magic to pound it into the rogue's head. Above 
  7th level, magic becomes as confusing to a rogue as to any warrior, although the rogue can continue to use magic 
  whether he himself is 5th level or 50th. Magic isn't easy, nor is it an art for the dilettante, and these are the penalties 
  rogues pay for lack of training. 
   
  WARRIOR-WIZARDS: are a rare breed indeed. These are characters to whom a moderate amount of magic 
  training and weapons training were both available in their growing years. It takes an uncommon character to be able 
  to absorb both, and good circumstance to be in the right place at the right time to receive the training. 
   
   
  A young warrior-wizard must have, above all else, better than average (on a scale of 3-18) attributes: all Prime 
  Attributes (ST, MC, IQ, LK, CON, DEX, and CHR). This is before alterations are made in attributes for the 
  humanoid kindred - on the average, there are no more elvish warrior-wizards than human ones. 
   
   
  A character cannot choose to be a warrior-wizard. He or she must be “born” that way. You can choose to be a 
  warrior, a wizard, or a rogue, but never a warrior-wizard - circumstances of birth and training required to create one 
  are rare, and should be so in your games. (For the curious, the odds are that only 1 in 360 characters will be a 
  warrior-wizard.) 
   
  PROVISIONS AND EQUIPMENT 
   
  You have determined virtually everything about your character. Now it is time to buy the provisions and equipment 
  the character will need on his or her adventures. 
   
   
  Characters probably have a few possessions before that first big adventure, but nothing really suitable for a serious 
  adventurer. A character scrapes up all the money possible and starts from scratch. To determine the number of 
  gold coins your character starts out with, roll 3 dice and multiply the result by 10 (you will get between 30 and 
  180 gold pieces, abbreviated g.p.). Some things in the equipment lists you will not be able to purchase immediately, 
  but after even one adventure, the character may be able to purchase more and better equipment with the rewards of 
  success. 
   
   
  The basic unit of exchange is the gold piece, a simple gold coin. Prices are all listed in gold pieces. There are also 
  silver and copper coins. One gold piece = 10 silver pieces (s.p.) = 100 copper pieces (c.p.). Every coin, regardless of 
  value/type, weighs 1 weight unit. This makes the basic unit of weight also equal to a gold piece. In the T&T World 
  of Kaball coins are referred to as follows; Gold Lions, Silver Eagles, Copper Stars. Most jewels weigh no more than 
  1 g.p. (and most less), although large objects like jade statues have no standard weight. 
   
  WEAPONS 
   
  Class I: Swords  
  WEAPONS              Dice + ST req DEX req Cost  Weight  Range 
                                      Adds 
  
   
   
  *Great Shamsheer (6’)  6 + 2 
  22 
  18 
  135 
  150 
  - 
  *Flamberge (6’)            6 + 1 
  21 
  18 
  125 
  165 
  - 
  *Great Sword (6’)        6 + 0 
  21 
  18 
  120 
  170 
  - 
  *Two-handed- 
  broadsword (5’)           5 + 2 
  17 
  14 
  110 
  160 
  - 
  *Hand-and-a-half- 
  sword (4’)                    5 + 0 
  16 
  12 
  90        150 
  - 
  Broadsword (3’-4’)      3 + 4 
  15 
  10 
  70 
  120 
  - 
  Gladius (2½’-3’)           3 + 2   10         7         50        70        - 
  Short Sword (2’-2½’)  3 + 0 
  7 
   3 
  35 
  30 
  - 
  Falchion (4’)                 4 + 4 
  12 
  13 
  75 
  110 
  - 
  Scimitar (3’)                 4 + 0 
  10 
  11 
  60 
  100 
  - 
  Rapier (3’-5’)               3 + 4 
  10 
  14 
  80 
  20 
  - 
  *Doublebitted Axe  
  6 + 3 
  21 
  10 
  140 
  220 
  - 
  Throwing Axe 
   
  2 + 2 
  7 
  5/10 
  28 
  35  
  15 yards 
  *Heavy Mace 
   
  5 + 2 
  17 
  3 
  120 
  200 
  - 
  Warhammer                 5 + 1 
  16 
  3 
  85        300 
  - 
  Morningstar                  5 + 0 
  17 
  11        140 
  110 
  - 
  Ball Mace (Bronze)  
  3 + 4 
  12 
  7 
  120 
  125 
  - 
  Bludgeon 
   
  3 + 0 
  5 
  2 
  15 
  50 
  - 
   
  Class II: Pole Weapons 
  WEAPONS              Dice + ST req DEX req Cost   Weight     Range 
                                      Adds 
  Poleaxe (10’)               7 + 0 
  14 
  13 
  210 
  300 
  - 
  Chauves Souris (12’)    6 + 5 
  15 
  12 
  250 
  190 
  - 
  Pike (12’)                     6 + 0 
  16 
  12 
  160 
  100 
  - 
  Quarterstaff 
   
  2 + 0 
  2 
  8 
  10 
  50 
  - 
  Baton (weighted stick)  2 + 0 
  2 
  1 
  10 
  20 
  - 
  Trident  
   
  4 + 3 
  10 
  10 
  60 
  75 
  10 yds 
  Common Spear 
  3 + 1 
  8 
  8 
  22 
  50 
  40 yds 
  Javelin  
   
  2 + 0    5 7 
  10 
  30 
  40 yds 
   
  Class III: Daggers 
  WEAPONS              Dice + ST req DEX req Cost   Weight  Range 
                                      Adds 
  Sax (dagger) 
   
  2 + 5 
  7 
  10 
  30 
  25 
  - 
  Kurkri                          2 + 5 
  6 
  6/30     30 
  20 
  - 
  Haladie (dagger) 2 + 4 
  2 
  4 
  25 
  10 
  - 
  Bich’wa                       2 + 3 
  1 
  4/23 
  20 
  33 
  10 yds 
  Dirk (to throw)             2 + 1 
  1 
  4/10 
  18 
  16 
  10 yds 
  Stiletto 5” - 1’              2 - 2  
  1  
  1/8   
  5  
  10  
  10 
   
  Class VI: Projectile Weapons 
  WEAPONS              Dice + ST req DEX req Cost   Weight     Range 
                                      Adds 
  *Sling Staff                   3 + 0    5 
  11        5          100      150 yds 
  Common Sling              3 + 0    5 
  11        1          10 100 yds 
  Pouch of 100 stones        - -      -           -         3          50          - - 
  Shuriken (3)                  1 + 0    2 
  10        30        10 10 yds 
  Throwing Knife             4 + 0    8 
  15        180      125      30 yds 
  *Cranequin                   8 + 0 
  15 
  10 
  600 
  250 
  100 yds. 
  *Crossbow 
   
  5 + 0 
  15 
  10 
  250 
  180 
  100 yds. 
  *Crossbow (light)         4 + 0 
  12 
  10 
  170 
  120 
  90 yds. 
  Quarrels (10)                  - -       -           -         5          10          - - 
  *Extra-Heavy Bow       6 + 0 
  25 
  17 
  200 
  70        100 yds. 
  
   
   
  *Medium Longbow 
  4 + 3 
  15 
  15 
  100 
  60 
  140 yds. 
  *Very light bow 2 + 0 
  9 
  15 
  50 
  30 
  60 yds. 
  Sheaf of 24 arrows 
    - -       -           -         40        10           - - 
  Curare (poison, 3 applications):  - 
    - 
  100 
  1 
     - - 
   
  doubles effectiveness of any edged weapon before combat adds computed. One application 
  lasts 3 combat rounds only. 
   
  All weapons have ST and DEX requirements. A character must meet these required minimums to use the weapon. 
  The “Weight” of a weapon is given in weight units - remember Weight Carried. Keep track of the weight of 
  purchases and the weight of any money the character carries. 
   
   
  The column of “Dice + Adds” pertains to the weapons’ combat effectiveness. The greater the numbers in these 
  categories, the more deadly the weapon is. Specifics are discussed under “Conducting Combat”. Wizards may not 
  use weapons with more than 2 dice (but any number of adds) in the Dice + Adds column. 
   
   
  The column labeled “ Range” states the maximum range for the weapon in missile combat. If there is no listing, the 
  weapon may not be used as a missile. Further discussion of missile combat follows, 
   
   
  An asterisk (*) indicates a weapon that requires two hands for proper use. No second weapon or shield may be used 
  unless the character has more than two hands. Two weapons without asterisks may be used simultaneously IF the 
  user has the ST and DEX requirements for BOTH weapons (e.g. to fight with a dirk in each hand requires a 
  minimum ST of 2 and a DEX of 8). 
   
  Creatures with a size/height multiplier of ×2 or greater (or ×1/2 or smaller) multiply the size, cost, weight, ST 
  requirement and dice+adds of their weapons by their size multiplier. The size/height multiplier is also applied to 
  unarmed effectiveness. E.g.: A 25' giant (with a size/height multiplier of ×5) would get 5 dice unarmed and 25 dice 
  + 15 adds with a giant version of a great axe. Unfortunately, the axe would also require a ST of 100 to wield, but at 
  least a 10 DX is still adequate. The DX requirement is only affected by the size multiplier if a smaller character tries 
  to wield it. E.g. A human trying to wield the same giant great axe requires a DX of 50! 
   
  SWORDS 
  Class II - Curved Swords  
  Dice + Adds   
  ST req. DX req.  Weight  Cost   
  Katana 2’4” - 3’4” long  
   
  4 + lvl*   
  10   
  10  
  55   
  300  
   
  HAFED WEAPONS 
  Class III - Smashing Heads  
  Dice + Adds 
  ST req. DX req. Weight  Cost   
  Ball Mace (Bronze)  
   
  3’ 4   
   
  12   
  7   
  125 
  120  
  Feather Staff - closed 3’11”  
  3  
   
  10  
  5  
  20  
  150 
  Nunchaku each haft 1’ - 1’6”  
  3  
   
  7  
  16  
  20   
  100 
  #Iron Shod Quarterstaff 5’  
  2  
   
  2  
  8  
  50  
  10 
   
  POLE ARMS 
   
   
  Dice + Adds 
  ST req. DX req. Weight  Cost     
  #Feather Staff - extended 6’7”  
  4 + 3  
   
  10  
  12  
  20  
  150 
   
  #Requires two hands to wield 
  *Katana does more damage in the hands of an experience user. Each Level with Katana increases the damage done 
  by +1 Add and increases the Dexterity required by +1. Level 1 Katana is equivalent and interchangeable with Level 
  1 Swords. After Level 1 the weapon styles change too much skill. Its Lacquered Bamboo sheath may be used 
  defensively against bladed weapons taking 1 hit per round. After 3 rounds of such treatment the sheath will break. 
   
  UNUSUAL WEAPONS 
   
  Dice + Adds 
  ST req. DX req. Weight   Cost   
  #Yaitish 6’7” / 4’11”  
   
  6 + 2 /  3 + 4*  
  21  
  8  
  200  
  120 
  #Kusari-Gama - sickle  
  only 1’8”- 2’ 
   
   
  4 + 1**   
  14  
  8  
  70  
  160 
  - coordinated use of  
  chain & sickle  4’11” - 14’9” 
  6 + 1  
   
  14  
  22 
  -- 
  -- 
  
   
   
  #Net 3***     
   
  #Requires two hands to wield 
   
  * The Yaitish may be used either as, a bola with a length of 6’7” doing 6 + 2 damage and bola rules in the 5th 
  edition of T&T, or as a light flail with a length 4’11” doing 3 + 4 damage. Used as a flail, the Yaitish is a two -
  handed weapon. 
   
  ** If the user has at least 1.5 meters of space to all sides he may get partial use of the chain, and should count dice as 
  5 + 1. If the user cart get at least 3 meters of clear space on all sides, he can count full use at 6 + 1. The clear space 
  to swing the chain is vital - you can't swing the chain if your back is to a wall or a fellow delver. 
   
  To trip an opponent, the user must have at least partial use of the chain (i.e. at least 1.5 in of dear space on any side). 
  This should be followed by a low level DEX or LK saving roll (GM's discretion) or the GM may rule that if the 
  user's DEX exceeds that of the foe he's seeking to trip, the move will be successful. To entangle a weapon, it is 
  suggested that the GM consider weapon-lengths to determine the ease of entanglement: small weapons like daggers 
  will be extremely difficult (if not impossible) to entangle for disarmament purposes (at least 4th level SR suggested); 
  one-handed swords and hafted weapons should be easier to entangle (3rd level roll suggested); two -handed swords 
  and hafted weapons easier still (2nd level roll suggested); spears and polearms easiest (1st level roll suggested). A 
  GM may wish to adjust the required saving rolls up or down according to the difference in DEX of the opponents, so 
  that a character with far superior DEX than his opponent would cause entanglement (or escape entanglement) more 
  readily than would opponents with similar DEX ratings. 
   
  *** The net gets 3d when used for an attack. If the net wielder wins the round, he does no damage; instead, he rolls 
  to see which part of his foe he entangles (see Alternate Gladiator Combat for hit location table). Entanglement has 
  specific results for each body part, as follows. A net may not execute a Lunge attack. 
   
  * 
  A head hit by a net: the foe must reduce his combat roll in half until the net is thrown off.   
  * 
  An arm hit by a net: the foe cannot use his weapon or shield until the net is thrown off.  
  * 
  A torso hit by a net: the foe's arm is pinned to his torso and rendered useless until 
   
  he can throw the net off. The arm trapped is the arm opposite the net arm of  
   
  the attacker.  
  * 
  A thigh/shin hit by a net: the foe is tripped. His Dexterity is halved until he can throw  
   
  the net off. While fighting from the ground, any head hit result by the foe may be  
   
  ignored by the net wielder; regardless of the damage done, it is considered a miss. 
   
  For a foe to throw off the net, he must make a DEX saving roll on the combat roll of the net when it got him. This 
  will reflect how well he is entangled, and the halving of DEX from a wound or being tripped will be in effect for 
  making the saving roll to throw the net off. If the roll is made, the net is thrown off. The saving roll never gets 
  tougher and all fighters are encouraged to try to throw a net off before they die.  
   
  SPEARS 
   
   
  Dice + Adds     ST req.   DX req.  Weight   Cost      Range   
   #Pilum 5’ + 3’ pike 
   
  5  
   
  13  
  8  
  105  
  75  
  20 
  Trident   
   
   
  4 + 3  
   
  10  
  10  
  75  
  60  
  10 
  Spear 6’  
   
   
  3 + 1  
   
  8  
  8  
  50  
  22  
  40 
  Sinalawitan - Spirit Spear 6’3”  
  3 + 1*   
  7  
  10  
  50  
  100*  
  30 
  Javelin   
   
   
  2  
   
  5  
  7  
  30  
  10  
  40 
  Javelin Sling   
   
   
  ×2   
   
   
  15   
  10   
  10   
  +10 
   
  DAGGERS 
   
   
  Dice + Adds     ST req.  DX req.  Weight    Cost     Range    
  Sax 2’ - 2’6”  
   
   
  2 + 5  
   
  7  
  10  
  25  
  30 
  -- 
  Dagger & Wheel Lock 1’7”  
  2 + 3**   
  5  
  8 / 20  
  45  
  1720  
  10 
  Dirk 1’3” - 1’6”  
   
   
  2 + 1  
   
  1  
  4 / 10  
  16  
  18  
  10 
  Sai 1’4” to 1’8” ***  
   
  2  
   
  5  
  13 / 26  20  
  200  
  5 
  Poniard 1’ 
   
   
  2 
   
  1 
  3 / 14 
  10 
  10 
  10 
  Stiletto 5” - 1’  
   
   
  2 - 2  
   
  1  
  1 / 8   
  10  
  5  
  10 
  
   
   
   
  GUNNES 
   
   
  Dice + Adds     ST req.  DX req.  Weight    Cost     Range    
  Dagger & Wheel Lock 1’7”  
  5 + 15   
  10  
  8  
  45        1720          20 
   
  #Requires two hands to wield  
   
  *20 gold for a tainted spear. Getting any blood on the spear contaminates it forever. Drives away non-corporal 
  entities if user’s Intelligence + Luck + Charisma is greater than the entity’s MR or Intelligence + Luck + Charisma. 
  This spear will harm non-corporal entities in combat. 
   
  ** 2 dice with point missing.  
   
  ***The sai can also deflect 2 hits in combat. The cost and weight is per sai, but sai are commonly sold in sets of 3. 
  Sai’s are normally used in pairs, one in each hand, the third sai is worn on the belt as a back up. 
   
  TOO-HEAVY WEAPONS 
   
  If a character does not have sufficient minimum Strength to wield a weapon, then that weapon is too heavy. The 
  character loses Strength every combat round equal to the difference of his Strength vs. the minimum required 
  Strength. Further more, anyone who wields a weapon which is too heavy for him should not receive his Adds for the 
  attack. The same applies if the weapon is heavier than the character (a fairy may be strong enough and dexterous 
  enough to wield a great sword, but will lose mobility using the 6 foot long sword). Any weapon heavier than the 
  character will most certainly need to be wielded with 2 hands. 
   
  TWO WEAPONS 
   
  Use a total of minimum Strength and Dexterity required for both weapons. 
   
  Thus to use a Sabre (ST 9, DEX 10) and a Katar (ST 2 DEX 8) you would need a ST of 11 and DX of 18. This 
  seems a little two easy as you get 5 + 8 damage from this combo (weight 82 cost 74), the only drawback is not 
  getting a shield. 
   
  GENERAL SUPPLIES 
   
  Items 
   
   
   
   
            Weight 
  Cost  
  Warm clothing & pack  
   
   
   
  10  
  5 
  Light clothing & pack   
   
   
   
  8  
  5  
  Fine cloth clothing  
   
   
   
  4  
  10  
     
  Woolen blanket    
   
   
   
  20  
  2  
  Large square of Oilskin cloth   
   
   
  50  
  5 
  Bed Roll (blanket/cover) 
   
   
   
  8 
  25 
     
  1 day’s food provisions w/o drink 
  (food, drink, “matches”) 
   
   
   
  10  
  8 
   
  Leather flask (pint) (lasts 1 day) 
   
   
  2(15)  
  2  
  Copper flask (pint)   
   
   
   
  2(15)  
  5  
     
  Sulfur matches  
   
   
   
   
  (20)   
  1 1  
  Tinder box (flint/steel/birds nest) 
   
   
  2  
  2  
  Small bronze mirror   
   
   
   
  5  
  8  
  Lodestone  
   
   
   
   
  2  
  3  
  Compass  
   
   
   
   
  1  
  5 
     
  
   
   
  Torch - provides enough light for 10 turns   
  10  
  1s 
  Lantern - provides twice the light of a torch  
  for 50 turns (w/o oil)  
   
   
   
  10  
  10 
  Skin of lamp oil   
   
   
   
  15  
  10 
  Tallow candles (10)   
   
   
   
  5  
  1s  
  Wax candles (10)   
   
   
   
  5  
  1  
     
  50 foot Ball of twine   
   
   
   
  3  
  5s  
  Silk rope - per foot  
   
   
   
  1  
  1 
  Hemp rope - per foot  
   
   
   
  5  
  1s 
  10 pitons  
   
   
   
   
  25  
  10 
     
  Calf high boots   
   
   
   
  20  
  5 
  Knee high boots   
   
   
   
  40  
  10 
  Thigh high boots  
   
   
  60  
  15 
  Sandals   
   
   
   
   
  2  
  2 
  Shoes   
   
   
   
   
  10  
  3 
  Armor Repair Materials  
   
   
   
  50  
  100 
  Small hammer (to pound out dents)    
  Pliers and a small shaft (for making  
  replacement chainmail links)    
  Spare wire (enough to repair 5 Hits of armor)    
  Leather patches, lacings, spare straps &  
  buckles (enough to repair 5 Hits of armor)    
      
  Block of ink   
   
   
   
   
  2  
  5s  
  Parchment (12 sheets)   
   
   
   
  2  
  5  
  Bound book (144 sheets)    
   
   
  30  
  100  
   
  POISONS 
   
  All poisons are sold in vials containing 3 applications. Where one application can cover a large weapon, 24 arrows 
  or bolts, or 2 daggers. Poisoned weapons must penetrate the foe’s armor to be effective. When used as a weapon 
  poison, poisons last for 3 combat rounds or until the weapon penetrates armor before wearing off once (whichever 
  comes first). 
   
  Poison   
  Description  
   
   
   
   
   
          Weight 
  Cost 
  Curare    
  Doubles effectiveness of any edged weapon after penetrating armor.   
  1  
  100 
  Spider   
  Venom Does no extra damage. Instead will paralyze the victim within  
   
   
  3 combat rounds. The first combat round has no noticeable affect.  
   
   
  The second combat round the victim is at half effectiveness. At the  
   
   
  end of the third combat round the victim is paralyzed and helpless  
  1  
  150 
  Hellfire Juice   
  Half again effectiveness of any weapon (even blunt ones) after  
   
   
  penetrating armor.  
   
   
   
   
   
  1  
  500 
  Dragon Venom 
  Quadruples effectiveness of any edged weapon after penetrating  
   
   
  armor.   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  1  
  1000 
   
  The Thieves’ Guild also controls the production of poisons and blade venoms, and it is to them that even respectable 
  gentry come to get their Curare or Spider Venom. To higher level thieves with proven ability (sufficient DX and 
  IQ), the Guild will provide alchemical training in poison brewing -- for a fee. 
   
  Thieves’ Guild 
  Like most enterprises, criminal activity is monopolized by powerful guild houses. The Thieves’ Guild is a shadowy 
  organization, but not an entirely secret one. Most traders and merchants will know how to contact a guild as easily 
  as any street thug. Any thief entering a new territory must check in with the local guild and clear any major 
  
   
   
  operation with the guild hierarchy (you may be refused permission if your target has already purchased 
  “protection”). 
   
  Any criminal gains less than 100 gp per week are free and clear. Any thefts greater than that value must fork over at 
  least ten percent to the local guild; failure to do so will result in unpleasant retributions. 
   
  MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS 
   
  Instrument  
  Description  
   
   
   
   
   
   
             Weight     Cost 
  Aeolian Harp   
  A stringed instrument sounded by the wind. It consists of six or more catgut  
   
   
  strings stretched over two bridges in a long narrow sound box. Sitting it  
   
   
  somewhere in the open and letting the wind blow across the strings causing  
   
   
  them to vibrate plays it.  
   
   
   
   
   
   
  20  
  20  
  Bagpipe   
  A wind instrument, which requires the player to inflate the leather bag by  
   
   
  blowing into it through a tube. The music comes from four wooden pipes  
   
   
  equipped with reeds that jut out from the bag. One of the pipes has holes  
   
   
  drilled in it. The bagpiper produces a shrill skirling melody by covering and  
   
   
  uncovering these holes with the fingers.   
   
   
   
   
  30  
  500  
  Drum    
  A wooden or metal cylinder with calfskin stretched tightly over one or both  
   
   
  ends to form the head. Striking the head with the hands or one or two sticks  
   
   
  plays it.   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  20  
  10  
  Fife   
   
  A small flute made of wood or metal. The fife has six to eight finger holes,  
   
   
  and is played by holding it horizontally and blowing across a mouth hole. It  
   
   
  has a high pitched tone to it.  2 15  
  Flageolet   
  A small wind instrument that has a whistle type mouthpiece, and has four  
   
   
  finger holes and two thumb holes. It is made of either wood or metal. The  
   
   
  flageolet has a very shrill tune.   
   
   
   
   
   
  1  
  5  
  Flute   
   
  A wooden. or metal tube about 26 long, closed at one end with holes for  
   
   
  regulating the tone. The flute played by holding it horizontally and blowing  
   
   
  over a hole near the closed end. It has a smooth rich tone to it.   
   
  5  
  50  
  Harp   
   
  A triangular shaped stringed musical instrument. The frame is made of wood  
   
   
  and it comes in many sizes, from about 12" to almost 61 in height.   
            10-1000 10-1000  
  Lute & Mandolin A wooden pear shaped instrument It has a deep, curved back and a flat top.  
   
   
  They vary greatly in the size, and number  
   
   
  of strings they have. Plucking the strings  
   
   
  with the right hand and stopping them  
   
   
  with the left plays them.    
   
   
   
   
   
  50  
  300 
  Lyre   
   
  A stringed musical instrument made up  
   
   
  of a sound box, two curved arms, and a  
   
   
  crossbar, stretched across a bridge and attached to the sound box. The is  
   
   
  played by stringing or, plucking the strings with the fingers or a plectrum.   
  10  
  100  
  Sitar   
   
  A stringed instrument, somewhat resembling a lute and having a variable  
   
   
  amount of strings, some that are picked and others that vibrate sympathetically.  
   
   
  It has a subtle, gentle tone.   
   
   
   
   
   
  50  
  500 
  Tambourine   
  A drum-like instrument that consists of a calfskin head stretched over one end  
   
   
  of a shallow wooden hoop, and attached to the sides of the hoop are small  
   
   
  metal disks. It's played by shaking or tapping it.   
   
   
   
  10  
  30 
  Trumpet   
  Consists of a cylindrical tube, made of brass. turned twice back upon itself,  
   
   
  with a cup-shaped mouthpiece at one end and a flaring bell at the other. The  
   
   
  vibrations of the players lips produce the tones.  
   
   
   
  30  
  100  
   
  ARMOR 
   
  Armor lasts as long as it is being worn unless something is specifically stated to destroy it. Armor and shields can 
  
   
   
  take “hits” (damage in combat) every time they are hit, protecting the wearer. The total “ST needed” of a character’s 
  armor and shield must never exceed their personal ST. i.e.. a person wearing mail (ST needed 12) and carrying a 
  target shield (ST needed 5) requires a minimum ST of 17. However the “ST needed” of the character’s weapon is 
  not added to this total; for example, in the case above the character would be able to carry any weapon to a 
  maximum 
   
   
  “ST needed” of 17 in addition to his armor and shield. Note that one cannot add to the “complete” suits of armor - 
  the arming doublet and steel cap are for those who cannot afford complete armor. 
   
  If in town, the damaged armor can be taken to an armorer (or tanner, etc.) and they can repair it for a cost of 
  (original cost/original Hits) per point to be repaired. Armor damaged 50% or more of its original value is beyond 
  repair. Repairs cannot mend armor to higher then one less than its original Hit rating. Each point will take about one 
  half-hour to fix. 
   
  BODY ARMOR           Hits Taken             ST req    Cost gp 
            Weight  
  Cloth Cuirass  
   
  1  
   
  1  
  15  
   
  50 
  Full Quilted  
   
  2  
   
  1  
  30  
   
  70 
  Leather Cuirass   
  3  
   
  1  
  30  
   
  150 
  Ring Cuirass  
   
  4  
   
  2  
  70  
   
  240 
  Scale Cuirass  
   
  4  
   
  3  
  35  
   
  500 
  Full Leather  
   
  5  
   
  1  
  40  
   
  170 
  Lamellar Cuirass  
  5 
   
  2 
  200 
   
  570 
  Full Ringmail  
   
  6  
   
  3  
  90  
   
  270* 
  Mail Cuirass  
   
  6  
   
  6  
  150  
   
  800* 
  Full Scale  
   
  7  
   
  6  
  70  
   
  720* 
  Full Lamellar  
   
  8  
   
  4  
  385  
   
  860 
  Bronze Cuirass   
  8  
   
  5  
  100  
   
  900* 
  Full Mail  
   
  9  
   
  11  
  285  
   
  1160* 
  Full Composite Plate  
  11  
   
  10  
  480  
   
  950* 
  Full Plate Suit  
   
  14  
   
  12  
  600  
   
  1200* 
   
  Helmets  
          Hits Taken                ST req    Cost gp 
            Weight  
  Pot Helm  
   
  1  
   
  1  
  10  
   
  25 
  Greek Helm  
   
  2  
   
  1  
  15  
   
  35 
  Full Helm  
   
  3  
   
  1  
  20  
   
  50 
       
  Shields  
          Hits Taken                ST req    Cost gp 
            Weight  
  Buckler   
   
  3  
   
  1  
  10  
   
  75 
  Target Shield  
   
  4  
   
  5  
  35  
   
  300 
  Aspis (medium)   
  5  
   
  5  
  65  
   
  450 
  Tower Shield  
   
  6  
   
  6  
  100  
   
  550 
   
  ARMOR CHART 
   
  There are four distinct bits of armor that any person may wear: 
   
  1. Helmet  
  2. Shield 
  3. Body Armor (hauberk, cuirass, back and breast, etc…) 
  4. Limb Armor (greaves, gauntlets, vambraces, leggings, bracers, etc…) 
   
  Only one of each type may be used. The ST requirement given is cumulative and the total must not exceed the 
  wearer’s Strength. Body armor is of two general types: 
   
  * 
  Cuirass -- covers the torso, shoulder and hip (typified by the Roman Lorica).  
  * 
  Full -- an extended cuirass including attached gauntlets and greaves.  
  
   
   
  * 
  -- any armor marked with an asterix is too cumbersome for constant use; a character may wear such armor 
  for as many (10 minute) turns as their CON; after which they lose one point of ST every turn they are not resting. 
  Lost ST is not recovered until the armor is removed.  
   
  ARMOR WEAR 
   
  Armor protects a delver from some of the impact of many blows, often saving his life, but while doing this it takes 
  quite a beating. Armor doesn't last forever. It eventually will become battered and worn as more and more damage 
  penetrates it. 
   
  Each time a delver is struck and Hits get through his armor, it means his armor has been breached and possibly 
  damaged. He must make a saving roll on the rating of his armor. If this is failed, a suit, shield, or piece of his choice 
  is diminished by 1 for the number of Hits that it can absorb. 
   
  No Experience Points are gained for Armor saving rolls. 
   
  The saving roll level is based on how much damage gets  through the armor. Starting at a level 0 saving roll, each 5 
  point of damage that gets through the armor increases the saving roll by 1. 
   
  Example: Vanger the Ranger is fighting Saki the Gnome Gninja. The gninja's katana strikes Vanger's scale 
  and target shield (12 Hits), but only does 10 Hits which the armor bounces. Neither the ranger or his armor is 
  damaged and no saving roll is required. 
   
  The next round, the gninja beats him by 15. His armor takes 12, but 3 get through. He takes 3 Constitution 
  damage and makes a level 0 Armor saving roll (base chance 5 or better). He rolls a 9 and his armor 
  withstands the impact. 
   
  Later in the battle, Vanger strikes the gninja with his sword... doing 6 over Saki's lamellar armor. The gnome 
  takes 6 Constitution and makes a level 1 Armor saving roll (20-10=10). He rolls a 9 and his armor suffers a -1 
  rating. 
   
  SPECIALIZED WEAPONS AND ARMOR 
   
  Barbed Weapons: Thrusting weapons may be barbed. This adds +½% to the weapon’s weight. To remove a barbed 
  weapon requires a level 1 Strength saving roll, and even trying to remove it causes 1 point damage. Removing the 
  barbed weapon does ½ the normal weapon damage ignoring armor (no personal Adds). Moving with an impaled 
  barbed weapon causes 2 point of damage per combat round. 
   
  Serrated Blades: Bladed weapons may be serrated for a more vicious cutting action. Serration does +1 damage. Note 
  that making a weapon serrated may cause the weapon to break, as the blade is made weaker by the removal of 
  material. Each combat round roll 2 dice. A roll of ‘2’ means the weapon breaks. 
   
  OTHER MATERIALS FOR WEAPONS & ARMOR 
   
  Bronze is less sturdy than iron, 1/3 as expensive as steel and normal weight. Iron will not tend to break against 
  bronze and it is 2/3 the price of steel. Copper is less sturdy than bronze, and gold and silver are even less sturdy than 
  copper. Mithril is far stronger than even steel and a mithril weapon is worth a number of gold pieces equal to ten 
  times its steel counterpart’s weight in weight units!  
   
  All armor should be doubled versus any weapons made from a material softer than bronze (less Durability). Witness 
  the fact that quilted jerkins more than protected the conquistadors against the Aztecs’ flint arrows. 
   
  Whenever a weapon is used in combat against an opponent with armor, a shield, or a weapon of a higher Durability, 
  the weapon has a chance of breaking. The person with the less durable weapon mustsubtract the Durability of his 
  weapon from the Durability of the hardest thing it would have struck during combat. This difference becomes the 
  level of the Luck saving roll the wielder must make to prevent his weapon from breaking. Gold, silver, copper, and 
  
   
   
  iron tend to bend rather than break and a Armory skill saving roll should be allowed after combat to repair bent 
  swords and such. Note that blunt weapons tend to survive well and short weapons like daggers tend not to bend, but 
  will dull badly.  
   
  Gold and Silver: More likely to bend out of shape than break. Durability 1 
  Copper/ Flint/ Obsidian: Durability 2 
  Bronze: Bronze is brittle, but harder than Iron. Bronze is 30% more expensive than steel and normal weight. 
  Durability 3 
  Iron: More likely to bend out of shape than break. It is 2/3 the price of steel. Durability 4 
  Steel: The standard metal of the weapons and armor listed in the Weapon and Armor Tables. Durability 5 
  Mithril: Mithril is worth 10 gold per one weight unit of metal. Durability 8 
   
  ANIMAL & MONSTER HIDES 
   
  In general if the carcass of an animal or other deadly creature can be brought to a tanner or skilled armorer, its skin 
  can be made into armor. A typical tanner working with an armorer can make a suit of armor out of the skin of the 
  creature in one day of work per hit taken that the skin gave the creature originally. One saving roll is made during 
  each day by averaging the skill of tanner and armorer. A failure by both, two days in a row indicates that the 
  material is ruined. Success yields armor of equivalent protection property, making the saving roll by two additional 
  levels will increase the hits taken of the armor by 1, while making the saving by four additional levels will increase 
  the armor by +1d3 hits taken. The initial saving roll should depend on the difficulty of working the hide.  
   
  Some creatures are magical or enchanted in nature thus making their hide intrinsically magical in nature and 
  normally impervious to attempts at tanning and molding it into usable armor. There are, however, some armorers 
  that are skilled enough to do this, thus yielding very powerful armor with possible traces of the magic that the 
  creature was a part of or created out of. Armors may have magical abilities, especially if the team makes an 
  incredible success roll during its creation. These magical abilities should be limited. 
   
  COMBAT 
   
  You know you’ll probably get into a fight when adventuring. But how good a fighter are you? The attributes listed 
  above tell you. The ones important in fighting are ST, LK, and DEX (strength, luck, and dexterity). If you are better 
  than average in any of those attributes, you’re a better fighter - you hit harder, control your weapon better, or are just 
  more apt to get a lucky shot. Since “average” is between 9 and 12, for each point above 12 in your ST, LK or DEX, 
  you get 1 point added to your “Personal Adds”. 
   
  If any of those three attributes is below 9, you must subtract 1 point from your personal adds for each point any one 
  of the three attributes is less than 9. 
   
  Every weapon gets a certain number of dice to represent the amount of damage it can do. That plus your personal 
  adds reflects how well you fight. 
   
  When you get into combat, decide what weapon you’ll use. In the adventure itself, your options may be dictated by 
  circumstances found there - follow those instructions. If you have your own weapons available, you can use them. 
  The shortsword gets 3 dice, and the dagger gets 2 dice plus 5 extra “adds”. Yo u can use both at once if you wish. 
   
   
  When you enter combat, start by rolling the dice for your weapon (3 dice for the sword, 2 for the dagger). Add the 
  pips showing (let’s say you get 18 for them both together). Add the weapons’ extra adds, if any (the dagger gets 5, 
  the sword, 0). Add all that to your personal adds. (If you have 33 personal adds, your total would be 56.) That result 
  is your hit point total, and it represents your part in a single round of fighting. 
   
   
  Your opponents will fight back, of course. Some fight the way you do, with weapons and adds. When you have to 
  fight such an opponent, you will be told the weapon(s) being used, the CON and personal adds of your foes, and if 
  they are wearing any armor. 
   
   
  
   
   
  However, most monsters have a Monster Rating (MR). This number reflects how well the monster fights. When 
  you're told a monster’s MR, check this chart to see how many dice it gets: 
   
   
  Monster Rating Number of Dice 
   
  1- 9 
   
   
   
  1 
   
  10-19 
   
   
   
  2 
   
  20-29 
   
   
   
  3 
   
  30-39 
   
   
   
  4 
   
  etc. 
   
   
   
  etc. 
   
  An easy way to find out how many dice a monster gets is to divide the Monster Rating by 10 (discarding any 
  remainder), and add 1. At places in the game, you will have to determine what the Monster Rating is, according to 
  the directions given in the text, before determining the number of dice a monster gets. Simply follow the instructions 
  in the text. 
   
  Monsters also get “adds” like your personal adds: that number is one-half its Monster Rating, rounded up. When a 
  monster fights, you roll the number of dice indicated on the chart. Add up the spots showing, then add the monster's 
  adds. The result is the monster’s hit point total. If your foe fights the way you do, roll dice for his weapon and add 
  the weapon and personal adds noted to get your enemy’s hit point total. 
   
  After you get your hit point total, and your foe’s hit point total, compare the two numbers. The side that had the 
  higher number hurt the side that had the lower number. The difference between the two numbers indicates how 
  badly the loser was hurt. 
   
  You may have to fight several opponents at once. If so, add together all the monsters’ hit point totals before 
  comparing the grand total with your hit point total. 
   
  Follow this chart to conduct simple combat: 
  • Pick your weapon(s). 
   
   
   
   
  • Roll the dice indicated, adding the pips: 
   
  _____________ 
  • Add weapon adds, if any: 
   
   
   
  _____________ 
  • Add your personal adds:  
   
   
  _____________ 
   
  This is your hit point total:  
   
  _____________ 
  • Does your foe have a Monster Rating or weapons?  
  • Roll the dice for its MR or weapon, and total:             _____________ 
  • Add foe’s weapon adds, if any: 
   
   
  _____________ 
  • Add half its current MR or its personal adds:               _____________ 
   
  This is the monster’s hit point total:  
  _____________ 
  • Subtract the smaller hit point total from the larger hit 
   
  point total. The result is the possible damage. 
   
  • If you had the larger number, then: 
   
  -Subtract the value of any armor worn by your foe(s). 
   
  -Subtract the damage from your foe’s MR or CON. 
   
  -If the result is 0 or below, the monster is dead. 
   
  -If not, use the result as the new MR or CON and continue fighting. 
   
  • If the monster had the larger number, then: 
   
  -Subtract 12 points from the damage for your leather armor, if you’re  
   
  wearing it (it protects you every turn as long as you wear it). 
   
  -Subtract any remaining damage from your CON number. That's an  
   
  actual wound; you’re bleeding. 
   
  -If your CON drops to 0 or below, you’re dead. Sorry! 
   
  -If you aren't dead, fight again or run away! 
   
   
  If you face a rmored opponents (and you might), you will be told how many points their armor is worth, and 
  whether they are warriors. If they are warriors, you will have to double the listed protection value, according to 
  what's written in the game text. 
  
   
   
   
  ALTERNATE COMBAT I 
   
  An important note: combat takes place over a two minute interval. There are a series of blows, misses, blocks, and 
  parries included in the simple roll of the dice. The character’s Adds (and Missile Adds) reflect how often the 
  character hits his opponent, how hard he hits his opponent, any lucky blows of chance, how often he parries his 
  opponent’s attack, how often he avoids the attack, and any lucky misses or near misses. It can be safely assumed the 
  average combatant will land 2 dice blows when harming their opponent in a melee combat round. 
   
  The following variations can be used without real changes to the standard Tunnels & Trolls melee combat rules: 
   
  1.  
  Do not add up all dice rolls on one side and compare with the total of the other. Break up the combat into 
  however many individual combats are desired. Remember that the location of all combatants is important. The GM 
  should declare whom the monsters are attacking, before the characters decide their actions. This allows typically 
  heroic leaps to the rescue. Remember that this is a privilege, so if characters do not take at least an occasional stab at 
  selfless heroism, you can withdraw this boon. 
   
  2.  
  During a melee you may always choose to defend another person. If you lose the combat round, you can 
  always agree with your teammate to take a greater portion of the total damage than he does. 
   
  3.  
  It is also possible to disengage from the melee wherever your retreat isn't blocked. Instead of attacking you 
  must make a Level 1 saving roll on Speed. If you are outnumbered the saving roll must be made at a level equal to 
  the number of creatures by which your opponents outnumber you. Every person staying to fight and allow you a 
  better chance of escape lowers the saving roll level by 1. The saving roll level can never be lowered below 1, and the 
  GM may raise it if appropriate. 
   
  4.  
  It is also possible to forsake all attacks, spells, and other actions for a better defense. If the character does 
  nothing for the combat round but dodge (or dodge and run), he may subtract a number equal to ½ his Dexterity from 
  any damage he takes. Of course, armor protects normally against any hits that the dodge did not manage to avoid. 
  Also, the character still gets his dice and adds with which to counter his foe, but if he wins the round he does no 
  damage to the monster he's fighting. If a dodging character’s total is added into a general hit total alongside real 
  combatants, his hits are discounted if his side wins the round. This should be handled in the same way as the overlap 
  from a TTYF spell. 
   
  E.g.: Hogarth the Hapless is suddenly confronted with a Balrog. His Strength is 15, his Dexterity is 14, and his 
  Luck is 7 (he does stumble across Balrogs, after all). Thus, Hogarth has 3 combat adds. Despite being a 
  warrior and normally quite brave, Hogarth decides that discretion is the better part of valor. So instead of 
  attacking, he turns and runs, weaving and dodging all the way. Hogarth can evade 7 points of damage (1/2 his 
  14 DX) and his leather armor will save him from another 12. Alas, Hogarth is still likely to die horribly. 
   
  ALTERNATE COMBAT II 
   
  There are two totals per combatant in every combat round. The offensive total is the weapon totals of all the 
  weapons being used plus the combatant’s personal Adds. The defensive total is the combatant’s personal Adds plus 
  the total number of hits offered by the combatant’s armor plus the raw number of dice of the weapons used. The 
  offensive total is compared against the defender’s defensive total. Any points that exceed the defensive total does 
  direct damage to the defender’s Constitution or MR (whichever is appropriate). 
   
  Example: Howard the Hopeless is fighting against an orc with a MR 20. Howard’s Adds are +6, he wields a 
  broadsword (3d+4), and wears full leather armor (5 hits) with a pot helm (1 hit). His rolls an 8 + 4 for his 
  broadsword, so his offensive total is 8 + 4 + 6 = 18. His broadsword adds 3 to the defensive total (the 
  broadsword’s dice). His defensive total is 6 + 3 + 5 + 1 = 15. The orc rolls an 11 for an offensive total of 11 + 
  10 = 21 and a defensive total of 3 + 10 = 13. Howard does 5 points of damage to the orc, but takes 6 hits 
  damage off his Constitution at the same time.  
   
  Thankfully, next round the orc will have a MR 15. Maybe Howard should look into buying a shield or heavier 
  
   
   
  armor. 
   
  RATING MONSTERS 
   
  Rated Monster start at 1d6+0 at 0 MR. For each additional 10 MR they gain basically +10 CON, +1d6 and +5 Adds 
  (about 8 average Hits rolled). 
   
  If you have a party of three delvers that have a total of 10d6, plus 37 Adds and two of them are wearing armor (both 
  leather, 6 hits) then you are going to want a creature (for an even fight) with similar combat abilities. Add 10 to the 
  MR until it reaches a nearly equal point to the delvers. 
   
  With the progression of +5 Adds automatically to each dice, this might seem hard to get an equivalent match, so 
  figure out the averaged Party Strength of the delvers (dice x 3.5 + adds, in this case 72) and keep building up the 
  MR until you get an average that is close. From this reference point you can decide on how relatively tough you 
  want the monster to be: 
   
  *   
  Sword-Fodder: -15 to +15 to MR (average of -10 to +10).  
  *   
  Good Fight: +25 MR (average of +22). The delvers will  
   
  need to be lucky, or pull out some direct damage to weaken it.  
  *   
  Tough Fight: +30 MR (average of +29). This monster will  
   
  be tough. It can be worn down, but direct damage and/or  
   
  cunning are almost a must.  
  * 
  Epic Battle: +40 MR (average of +37). This monster will savage  
   
  the delvers. Direct damage will be needed to weaken it enough  
   
  to finish it off.  
  * 
  Hopeless Battle: +50 MR (average of +46). This monster will  
   
  demolish the party in straight melee combat. Those without direct  
   
  damage or major tricks up their sleeves may be in trouble.  
   
  Monsters may also have armor, which makes them much more difficult to kill. Monsters can also have “direct 
  damage” (spells, a thrown knife, etc.) which they are likely to use on their opening turn of combat. If this attack is 
  apt to kill one of the delvers, figure the MR of that monster from a Party Strength excluding the member most likely 
  to be lost (probably the one with the lowest Constitution, Dexterity, or Luck... you are going to have to choose here). 
  If the monster fails to kill a delver with his initial attack, he has lost his advantage and will likely be dispatched 
  quickly. 
   
  The above scale works for fighting a group of monsters as well. Simply take the selected “battle difficulty” and split 
  the MR into several separate beasts. The base MR arrived at can be thought of as Monster Party Strength. 
   
  A solo delver fighting a group of monsters would best be done by taking how hard you want the fight to be (“Good 
  Fight”) and dividing the MR among the monsters.  
   
  BERSERKER FIGHTING 
   
  Sometimes in battle, fighters go berserk. Berserk fighters are called berserkers. Berserk fighters get no adds and no 
  subtracts. However, they do get to roll extra dice. 
   
  Usually, characters will be able to choose whether or not to go berserk. Characters with an IQ of 8 or less will 
  always go berserk when the battle-madness strikes (i.e., when they get the opportunity). Characters with an IQ of 16 
  or higher will never go berserk (unless ensorcelled). 
   
  Characters using missile weapons will not go berserk while discharging a missile. (Whoever heard of the Berserk 
  Bowman?) Berserkers must use a hand-held weapon of some kind (or their bare berserker hands). Berserkers who 
  have a shield to chew on get a special add of 5 to whatever their berserk roll may be; however, the shield must be in 
  the Berserker's possession when the madness strikes and may not be borrowed. Berserk characters expend 2 ST 
  
   
   
  points per combat turn while berserk. Characters still berserk after monsters/enemy have been slain will turn on the 
  members of their own party. 
   
  Berserkers may be calmed down by the following methods: 
  1) They become too weak to fight and their madness wears off when they have reduced their own Strength to 5 or 
  lower. 
  2) A delver with a CHR of 15 or higher may calm down a Berserker at the end of any combat turn. 
  3) The character with the highest CHR in the party may try to make the Berserker’s SR on LK (1 try only) to force 
  the Berserker to either recognize his friends or be knocked out from behind. 
  4) A magic-user can knock out a Berserker with an appropriate spell (a sleep spell or the like). 
   
  Even though battle continues, an exhausted Berserker (with a reduced ST of 5 or lower) may not continue to fight. 
  He does, however, continue to take hits if the other guys are winning. 
   
  Berserk battle madness comes only on humans and humanoid characters only rarely, and under special conditions. 
  Characters using 3- (or more) dice weapons may go berserk when any 2 or more of their dice come up the same 
  number. (Example: a broad-axe with 4 dice rolls a 6, 3, 1, 1. Its owner can go berserk if he or she wishes, but may 
  only roll 2 dice - for the double - on the second try. Suppose the character throws a double 
   
  SAVING ROLLS 
   
   
  When the text of the game instructs you to “make a saving roll”, you use 2 dice to check your abilities against the 
  hand of fate. The next will tell you on what attribute to make the roll, and at what level to make the roll. Once you 
  know the level of the saving roll to be made, follow the chart below: 
   
  • Note what number currently represents the attribute on which the roll is to be made. 
  • Subtract the attribute number from 20 (for Level 1 roll), from (Level 2 roll),  
   
  from 30 (Level 3 roll), from 35 (Level 4), 40 (Level 5). 
  • If the result is less than 5, make it equal to 5. 
   
  This is your “To hit” number. 
  • Roll 2 dice. 
  • If the result is a 1 and a 2, or a 1 and a 3, you have automatically missed the saving roll. 
  • If there are no doubles, just add the pips. 
   
  -If the result of the dice roll is equal to or greater than your “To hit”  
   
  number (from above), then you made the saving roll, If not, you  
   
  missed the roll. 
  • If the result is doubles (any pair from two 1’s to two 6’s), add the pips, pick  
   
  up the dice, and roll again. Keep rolling and adding as long as you roll  
   
  doubles consecutively. When you throw the dice and do NOT get  
   
  doubles, make a grand total for the dice throws. 
   
  -If the grand total is equal to or greater than the “to hit” number you  
   
  found above, then you made the saving roll. If not, then you missed it.  
   
  The text will tell you what to do if you make or miss a particular saving roll, 
   
  but generally it’s a lot better to make it than to miss! 
   
  ALTERNATE SAVING ROLLS I 
   
  Saving rolls do not need to be changed so much as looked at in a fresh way. Since most people find addition much 
  quicker than subtraction, add your roll to your Attribute to see if you succeed. If you equal or exceed the saving roll 
  number you make it.  
   
  Level  
   
  Description 
  0  
   
  automatic 
  1  
   
  commonplace 
  2  
   
  deed that requires some ability 
  
   
   
  3  
   
  challenging 
  4  
   
  very, very hard to do 
  5+  
   
  very, very unlikely to truly impossible 
   
  SAVING ROLLS EXPLAINED 
   
  From time to time, characters may be placed in such danger (by a trap, by combat, by magic, or by their own 
  clumsiness) that only pure luck can save them. This is where the ‘saving roll’ comes in. All important characters in 
  this game have a luck rating - the higher the rating, the luckier the character. The saving roll needed is based on a 
  character’s luck rating. 
   
  These rolls are set up in levels of difficulty. If the peril to be avoided is something fairly ordinary, like dodging a 
  missile or not falling into an open cesspool, only a first-level saving roll would be required. But if the peril is 
  something tremendous, like escaping from the center of a burning, collapsing house with archers stationed on all 
  sides to pick you off as you come out, a fourth or fifth level saving roll (at least!) would reasonably be required. 
   
  When making a saving roll, you always use two dice. However, doubles add and roll over - i.e. if you roll two 4s, 
  you may roll again, and add the 8 you already have to the new roll, whatever it is. Thus, it is possible to keep rolling 
  and adding indefinitely, if y ou can keep rolling doubles. So don't despair if you find you need a saving roll greater 
  than 12. The following chart gives the first 4 levels of saving rolls; the progression should be clear enough. Note that 
  you must always roll at least a 5, no matter how lucky you are - accidents can always happen. 
   
  Level            Formula 
  1                   20 - luck 
  2                   25 - luck 
  3                   30 - luck 
  4                   35 - luck 
   
  In other words: subtract your luck from the appropriate number to get your saving roll, which must never be less 
  than the minimum of 5 (although if you roll double 1s or double 2s you do get to roll again). 
   
  As a character attains higher levels, he/she will have opportunities to improve his or her luck, making the higher 
  level saving rolls easier. Also, GMs often let you run across magical treasure which improve (or worsen) your luck, 
  so ratings of 30 or even higher are not unheard of. 
   
  When a character mis ses his saving roll by a narrow margin, the GM may relent and inflict a milder version of the 
  original hazard. However, for his own honor, he will usually want to kill all your attacking monsters he can! 
   
  Saving rolls are usually used to avoid mechanical traps, dodge missiles, escape death after exposure to poison or 
  disease, etc. They are usually not used as defense against magic, although the GM may decree otherwise. A 
  character in hiding may need to roll to avoid discovery. In general, if there is a question of whether a player is lucky 
  enough to accomplish something the saving roll concept can be employed, whether or not actual ‘escape” is 
  involved. Furthermore, GMs may require saving rolls on other attributes-- on IQ to throw off the effects of a 
  hypnotic gem, on Dex to run across rooftops and so on. 
   
  If a non-player character requires a saving roll, the GM will roll up his luck (or other attribute) and (try to) make the 
  roll. 
   
  MISSILE WEAPONS AND COMBAT 
   
  When a foe is big and nasty it is often best to try to kill it at a distance. Missile weapons, when they hit the target, 
  can be devastating because the damage done is intercepted by armor alone, the target’s Hit Point Total is not 
  subtracted from the damage you have done. An arrow a day will keep the monsters away. 
   
  Missile weapons are treated differently from ordinary weapons. When a missile (spear, arrow, thrown ax or dagger, 
  
   
   
  spitball, or whatever) is fired, it is necessary to roll (1) to see whether it was accurately fired, and (2) whether, if it 
  was, the target was lucky enough to duck it. Dexterity represents marksmanship.  
   
  Hitting the target is the trick. The archer must make a DEX saving roll, with the chart below providing the “to hit” 
  number. Pick the closest target size, cross reference with range and let fly! 
   
  Target  
  Pointblank  
  Near 
   
  Far 
   
  Extreme 
  Size 
   
  0-5 yards 
  6-50 yds 51 = 100 yds 
  101 + yds 
  Dragon             20 
   
  25 
   
  30 
   
  35 
  Troll/man 
  25 
   
  35 
   
  45 
   
  55 
  Hobbit/child 
  30 
   
  45 
   
  60 
   
  75 
  Rabbit/rat 
  35 
   
  55 
   
  75 
   
  5 
  Coin 
   
  40 
   
  65 
   
  90 
   
  115 
   
  There is one more thing that needs to be adjusted when using missile weapons. A character gets to add his DEX 
  personal adds in again. This reflects how important DEX is in missile combat. If your character has 2 adds from his 
  DEX, for the purpose of missile combat he has 4 adds. If he has -2 adds he will, unfortunately, have -4 for missile 
  combat. 
   
  The last detail is this. Just as the target gets no combat roll against your arrow, if you don’t kill the target, and it is 
  close enough to attack you in the round you shot it, you will not get a combat roll. So soften them up with arrows at 
  long range, then fight hard with a sword or spear if they get close. 
   
  Close range is 0 to 10 feet. Medium range is 10 to 100 feet. Long range is 100 feet to the weapon’s range limit - see 
  WEAPONS TABLE. 
   
  The GM may allow player characters to attempt saving rolls (q.v.) to escape being hit, if they are aware they are 
  being shot at. There are a few people who can bat arrows out of the air, and there is always the chance of getting 
  your shield or armor in the way, or of taking the shot in a nonvital area. To avoid damage, the character must make a 
  first-level saving roll against an archer with a dexterity under 13, second-level against 1-3 to 21, third-level against 
  22 to 27, fourth level against 28 to 31 ... This only applies if the shooter fired well enough to hit them in the first 
  place. 
   
  ENDURANCE 
   
  Evenly matched battles can go on for a long time, but not forever. Combatants will tire. Those wearing the heaviest 
  armor tire fastest. Generally speaking, the extremely fit citizens of Kaball can fight for a number of combat turns 
  equal to their Constitution rating. When that number is exceeded, the character/opponent begins to weaken. Strength 
  goes down by 1 point per combat round (and if Strength goes down, combat Adds go down). If the fighting 
  character is carrying stuff, he weakens a lot faster, using a formula of CON/(1 + N), where N = number of weight 
  units being carried divided by 100, giving the number of combat turns before the character loses Strength. If a 
  character gets too weak to effectively use his weapon, but continues using it, he weakens even faster. If Strength 
  reaches zero, or goes negative, the character falls down unconscious for combat turns equal to the negative number 
  as Strength rebuilds to a positive number. At the Game Master’s option, the Character must make a first level 
  Constitution saving roll (on his current Constitution) to see if his heart burst from the effort and he died on the spot. 
  This takes care of all those situations people complain about where it seems that heavy-armored characters cannot be 
  hurt. It is also a major advantage for monster-rated creatures who are assumed to have Constitutions equal to their 
  monster rating.  
   
  GOING SOFT 
   
  Delvers are truly exceptional people. They are constantly battling fierce beasts, dodging deadly traps and pitfalls - 
  and basically fighting for their lives most of the time. That is quite a work-out and those that survive develop far 
  beyond that of the average person... however, sometimes even the most daring delver decides that it is time to hang 
  up the old magic sword and relax to enjoy the vast wealth he has acquired through his travels. For every year spent 
  without adventuring, he will lose 10% of his current adventure point total. When this causes him to drop below that 
  required for his current level, he drops to the level below it and must subtract the points equal to the level lost (in the 
  
   
   
  same ratio they are gained) from his characteristics. One of the level bonus options must be selected and applied in 
  reverse. This can apply to skills as well. 
   
  No amount of practice can fully substitute the kind of “kill or be killed”, “sink or swim”, “Do or DIE” type of 
  training received in real-life adventuring - but, if the retired character practices his craft at least twenty hours each 
  week, every week without fail - he will only lose 5% per year. 
   
  “But, hey! Wizards are not physical characters. Why should they go soft the same way? They often hole up in 
  towers and study spell books. That's what wizards do.” As any post graduate student can tell you, in the field 
  experience is very different from theoretical models. They actively go out and hone their skills “in the field”, just as 
  a warrior. They are just different skills. The above still applies for them, but they are more likely to continue 
  studying their craft once they have stopped adventuring so usually they will only lose the 5% per year. 
   
  PLAYING THE NUMBERS 
   
  Sometimes the number of dice to be rolled in T&T combat is daunting... or just plain unavailable. There are three 
  primary methods to skirt around this dilemma: 
   
  OPTION ONE: [HOUSE RULES] 
   
  1.  
  “When Monster-rated foes have big monster ratings--like 300--I usually don't have 31 dice to roll, although 
  that can be fun. I'm more likely to divide by 10, or some other convenient factor and calculate monster hits that way. 
  In this case, ten Orcs with monster ratings of 30 each would roll 3 dice getting 6, 4, 4 for 14 times 10 = 140 weapon 
  hits plus 1 die (its 31 dice total) = 143 weapons hits and 150 adds for a combat total of 293. There was one 6, and 
  times 10 makes 10 sixes for 10 points of spite damage if the Orcs lost that combat round. [Actually rolling 31 dice, I 
  got only 117 for the Orcs’ dice roll. As you can see, factoring will produce a wider variety of combat results than 
  mere die-rolling or averaging is likely to do, and thus make the game more exciting.] 
   
  Note, this method generates a much wider range of numbers and makes combat far more unpredictable, weighing it 
  even more so in favor of the side with the most dice. 
   
  2.  
  Reduce all factors (dice, adds, armor) by a like amount (usually 2) and then re-convert Hits to CON after 
  armor is applied. 
   
  For Spite Damage, multiply the number of sixes rolled by 2 (or whatever number you divided by). Do not round 
  adds and roll “true” half die when needed (divide the result by 1/2 without rounding). Everything will arrive at a 
  whole number when re-converted.  
   
  Note, this method will make the combat outcome closer to what it would have been had all the dice been rolled. 
   
  Example: Gorz Orcstab (6d, armor 6 hits), Tawny Manslaughter (5d+12, armor 8 hits) and Hobbert the 
  Hairy (2d+3, armor 3 hits) are gearing up to take down a Newt-Dragon (MR 70, 8d+35) that has been 
  carrying away local virgins. 
   
  Gorz becomes 3d, armor 3. Tawny 2.5d+6, armor 4. Hobbert becomes 1d+1.5, armor 1.5, and the Newt-
  Dragon becomes 4d+17.5. 
   
  The delvers have a total of 6.5d+7.5. Combat is fought using these smaller numbers, but if someone takes 
  damage, it is multiplied by 2 (after armor has been applied). 
   
  3.  
  Roll the dice that you have (or want to roll) and assume any unrolled dice are 3.5 each. This will be very 
  close to same result had all the dice been rolled. 
   
  BLOW-BY-BLOW COMBAT: [GLADIATOR COMBAT] 
   
  The classic Tunnels and Trolls combat round is a series of attacks, blocks, dodges, and parries all represented by 
  
   
   
  Adds, Weapons, and Armor. At the end of a 2 minute combat round, the character is bleeding from numerous small 
  wounds and perhaps a larger wound or two. 
   
  This a simple system for the adaptation of T&T to simulate the gory spectacles of combat, and gives us a system to 
  reduce general T&T combat to a blow-by-blow system.  
   
  This “Gladiator” system works fairly easily, and requires only minor changes to the T&T combat system.  
   
  1.  
  In this variant each combat round takes only 10 seconds. (Combat spells can be cast within 10 seconds, but 
  can only be cast once every 2 minutes! It takes time to gather the thoughts and raw magic necessary to cast a spell. 
  Some spells like Take That, You Fiend! have long lasting effects. It may take 2 minutes before a foe recovers from 
  that spell.)  
   
  2.  
  Each player must choose an “attack tactic” for each combat round he fights. Such tactics will target the 
  damage done on an opponent's body. There are four types of tactics available: 
   
  a.  
  The Lunge tactic indicates a move where the attack comes towards the opponent with the intent of stabbing 
  instead of slashing or chopping. A trident may only execute Lunge attacks, while a net cannot perform Lunge 
  attacks at all.  
   
  b.  
  The Draw tactic indicates a slashing/chopping attack that runs across the body of the opponent. It is meant 
  to disembowel the foe.  
   
  c.  
  The Quarter tactic is an attack that runs from the head of a foe to his feet.  
   
  d.  
  The Slash tactic attacks indicate a blow that runs diagonally across the body of the foe.  
   
  3.  
  Combat is conducted in the normal T&T fashion: dice are rolled for each weapon used and then combat 
  totals are compared. However, after this is done, the winner of a combat round divides his total by 2d6 (the number 
  of blows he might have made in the 2 minute combat round), and then roll 2d6 and consult the Hit Location Chart 
  below to see where his blow lands. This chart is vital - an attack to an armored location will not do as much damage 
  as one might like.  
   
  Note: Full suits of armor must be broken down by hit location. 
   
  4.  
  It is very important to indicate the “handedness” of each participating gladiator. Generally, a right-handed 
  fighter will hit his foe on the foe's left side. Wherever the chart notes “Arm, same” that means a right-handed fighter 
  has hit the right arm of his foe (the attack that is usually most difficult). If a side is not specified on the chart, all 
  attacks will hit the body location on the side opposite the handedness of the gladiator delivering the blow. (If you 
  look into a mirror for a while, you will see the logic of this.) Torso hits where a shield would be able to absorb some 
  damage are also noted on the chart. If the chart does not indicate a shield, the shield is not in play.  
   
  Note: If a Lunge result indicates an arm or thigh hit, roll 1d6. An odd result indicates a hit on the right limb, an even 
  result means a hit on the left limb.  
   
  5.  
  Damage to different limbs and body parts will have specific results. If a foe does damage to a limb equal to 
  50% of that character's Constitution, the limb is useless from that point on.  
   
  If the useless limb is an arm, the shield can no longer be used to take damage; any weapon held must be shifted to 
  the other hand to continue using it. (This can be done easily, and the weapon will be ready for the next round.)  
   
  A useless leg will result in a 50 % reduction in the character's Dexterity. Both legs gone results in immobility (and 
  probably death). A head wound doing more than 50% damage to the character's Constitution will result in 
  unconsciousness if the character cannot make a Constitution saving roll against the total amount of damage he has 
  taken in the fight. (For example, Flavius started the fight with a Constitution of 15. He takes a head wound for 8 
  points of damage. He will fall unconscious if he cannot make a saving roll against those 8 points of damage with his 
  
   
   
  new CON of 7. (8 minus his new CON gives him what he must roll on 2d6 to make the SR, i.e. 1. Though the 
  difference is 1, he must make at least a 5 as per normal saving roll rules.)  
   
  Torso wounds will not cause problems. Characters are tough.  
   
  HIT LOCATION TABLE 
   
  Die roll   
  Lunge   
  Draw  
   
  Quarter  
  Slash 
  2  
   
  Head    
  Head    
  Head    
  Head 
  3  
   
  Torso   
  Torso, shield  
  Arm, same  
  Arm, same 
  4  
   
  Torso   
  Torso   
  Thigh   
  Shin 
  5  
   
  Torso   
  Thigh, same  
  Thigh   
  Shin 
  6  
   
  Thigh   
  Thigh   
  Thigh   
  Torso 
  7  
   
  Arm  
   
  Arm  
   
  Torso   
  Torso, shield 
  8  
   
  Thigh   
  Arm  
   
  Arm  
   
  Torso 
  9  
   
  Torso   
  Arm, same  
  Arm  
   
  Arm 
  10  
   
  Torso   
  Torso   
  Arm  
   
  Arm 
  11  
   
  Torso   
  Torso   
  Arm, same  
  Arm, same 
  12  
   
  Head  
   
  Head    
  Head    
  Head 
   
  GLADIATORS 
   
  As mentioned above, the different types of gladiators were armed with different weapons and armor. I have reduced 
  all of their weapons and armor to the nearest T&T equivalents. The tower shield, given its size, will protect not only 
  the arm using it, but the thigh on that side and the torso on that side, regardless of the chart result.  
   
  These are the various types of Gladiators:  
   
  SAMNITE. Their oblong shield is a Knight’s shield, while the armored sleeve is a piece of mail that will protect the 
  sword arm alone. They get one greave to protect the left shin and the helmet should be a full helm. Arm them with a 
  Gladius or Pilum.  
   
  THRACIAN. Greaves protect both shins while bracers (1 hit) cover their thighs. They get a Target shield and 
  should be armed with a scimitar. Their helmet should be a Greek helm.  
   
  GAUL. They get a full helm and Back and breast for upper body armor. The sword arm would have vambrace and 
  the shin on the shield side should have a greave. A gladius and target shield, with appropriate fish designs, will 
  complete the armament.  
   
  SECUTOR. A tower shield, full helm and bracers for thighs and sword arm are all the protection this fighter wears. 
  A gladius or poniard would provide the offensive punch for this gladiator.  
   
  RETARIUS. Bracers protect the legs, torso, and net arm of this fighter. He wears no helmet. A trident, dirk and net 
  are his weapons. A retarius may attack with either his net or another of his weapons in any one round.  
   
  Armor will only protect the part of the body that it covers. No gladiator will get the doubled effect for armor; after 
  all, they were trained to kill, not ward off blows.  
   
  If a Gladiator’s CON is reduced to 5 or less, or he is otherwise rendered unconscious, his fate will be decided by the 
  “crowd”. Any unconscious fighter must attempt to make a L#-SR, using the number of rounds he lasted in the fight 
  as the attribute (#) for making the saving roll. If he makes it, he will be allowed a chance to win. If he misses it, he 
  gets one last chance to make a Charisma (reputation) saving roll on his level. If he makes that, he lives. If he fails, 
  death.  
   
  Experience points for these professional fighters should be awarded on the basis of how well the fight went and how 
  difficult a fight it was.  
  
   
   
   
   
  MAGIC AND SPELL CASTING 
   
  Wizardly characters use magic in combat and in more ordinary situations. In this game, magic is envisioned as a psi-
  based mental conjuration or creation powered by the magician’s inner strength. A magician’s “Mystic” power is 
  depleted when he or she casts magic. This cost is listed following the spell name in The Spell Book in parentheses. 
   
  Wizards may reduce the cost of spell casting by using a magic staff or by gaining experience. A magic staff reduces 
  the cost of casting a spell by the same number as the level of the magic-user Thus, a first Level wizard using a staff 
  may cast any first level spell for one less “Mystic” or MC point than that listed. 
   
  As a wizard survives his adventures, he or she becomes more experienced and goes up in levels . However, the 
  magician will still wish to use lower level spells. Because of his greater experience, a higher level mage casts a 
  lower level spell for 1 MC point less for each level that spell is below the caster’s level. (A third level magic-user 
  subtracts 2 from the cost of a first level spell.) 
   
  These reductions can be combined. A third level magic-user with a magic staff subtracts five from the cost of a first 
  level spell. The staff subtracts three points, and the magician’s own proficiency (being higher level than the spell 
  being cast) subtracts two. 
   
  No reduction permits any spell to be cast for less than 1 point. All spells cost a minimum of 1 MC point to cast - 
  there must be something to get the spell started. (The spell Detect Magic is an exception which only requires that the 
  wizard Concentrate on detection.) 
   
  Mystic energies expended in spell casting is not lost forever. The magic-user replenishes lost Mystic at the rate of 1 
  MC point per full turn (about 10 minutes). In these solitaires, magicians regain MC at 1 point per numbered 
  paragraph unless instructed otherwise. 
   
  Magic-users can cast only one spell per combat round, and may not fight with weapons during that some round. If a 
  wizard is in close combat and chooses to cast a spell such as a Vo rpal Blade, he will have to take the full brunt of his 
  opponent’s Hit Point Total because, while casting magic, the mage will have generated no Hit Point Total of his 
  own. Combat spells such as Take That, You Fiend and Blasting Power do create a Hit Point Total. Other spells, such 
  as Panic, divert the foe so no comparison of Hit Point Totals is needed (if the spell is successful). A careful reading 
  of the spells available should clarify your options. 
   
  STAFFS: “Good” mages are almost always endowed with staffs (‘staves’ for the grammatical). These tools 
  facilitate spell casting by reducing the Mystic required to cast a spell by one unit for each level the wizard has 
  attained, i.e. a 3rd level mage subtracts 3 from the Mystic cost of casting a spell when using his staff. Staffs come in 
  3 varieties - makeshift, ordinaire, and deluxe. A makeshift staff is any piece of wood picked up and used to cast 
  magic. Because not all wood is suitable, the first time it is used, the wizard should make a low-level saving roll to 
  see if the staff explodes. If it does not, then he/she can cast up to twice his IQ through the staff before it is not longer 
  useful. The staff ordinaire is permanent but has no special powers not already mentioned. The deluxe staff is a better 
  model: it has a name, is indestructible, and remembers any spell ever cast through it. Only wizards get any benefit 
  from the use of a staff. Because rogues have no training in magic, they cannot use them as tools, and must always 
  cast magic at the spell cost listed, even if they are of higher level. Staffs may look like wands, quarterstaffs, or what-
  have-you. A magic-user can tell if a piece of wood is a staff with the Detect Magic spell. 
   
   
  All wizards start with all the Level 1 spells. A mage may only buy more from the Wizards Guild, and only after 
  attaining the appropriate level himself. 
   
  THE SPELL BOOK 
   
  LEVEL 1: 
  First level spells require a minimum IQ of 10 and a minimum DEX of 8 to cast. They are the basic heritage of all 
  
   
   
  first-level wizards and warrior-wizards. All beginning wizards know all these spells. All higher level spells cost the 
  wizards ever-increasing amounts of money as the character ascends in level. After a magic-using character casts a 
  spell (be it wizard, rogue, or warrior-wizard) he regains his Mc expended at the rate of 1 point per regular turn. 
   
  Alarums (4) 
  This is placed across an opening, on an object, or on an areas of 10 foot radius. If the areas is disturbed or crossed, 
  the caster will be alerted. Lasts 100 hours. 
   
  Clot! (1)  [Range 10’] 
  Stops external bleeding. (This includes blood drain by a monster, requiring the monster to attack again to restart the 
  drain.) 
   
  Cloud o’ Dust (4)  [Range 30’] 
  Raises a ten foot wide cloud of dust which reduces visibility by half and chokes the breathing of all within (Level 3 
  Constitution saving roll or lose half Strength while in the cloud). Lasts one (ten minute) turn. 
   
  Detect Magic (0) [Range 30’] 
  Detects good and bad magic. 
   
  Detect Miracle (2) 
  Detects priestly and divine miracles. Works much like Detect Magic. 
   
  Hocus Pocus (1) 
  Enchants a staff, wand, stick, etc. to become a magic focus. Does not ensure durability of focus. A level 1 Luck 
  saving roll is required the first time it is used to see if the magic focus works. A failed roll means the magic focus is 
  burned out and the materials are wasted. A hocus pocus focus only lasts for twice the caster’s Intelligence in Mystic 
  expended. After which the focus is burned out and cannot be re -enchanted. It does not store Mystic. Acts just like a 
  magic staff would. 
   
  Hotfoot (7) [Range 30’] 
  This causes one target to experience the momentary sensation of having a lit match stuck between the toes. This can 
  affect any number of targets, so long as the combined CHA (or MR) does not exceed the caster’s IQ. Higher levels 
  double this limit. 
   
  Knock-Knock (2) 
  Opens locked doors (usually). 
   
  No-Feel-ums (3) 
  Renders all others incapable of feeling the thief’s activities on their person, such as pocket picking or even poison 
  injecting. Lasts one round only. 
   
  Lock Tight (1) 
  Locks any door for 3 turns. 
   
  Oh Go Away (5) [Range 50’] 
  Combines total of caster’s IQ, LK and CH to drive away foes with a lower Monster Rating or equivalent attribute 
  total. If spell fails, the victim chases magic-user to the exclusion of his or her comrades. 
   
  Oh There It Is (4) [Range 10’] 
  Usually detects concealed or invisible things by surrounding them with a purple glow that slowly fades. 
   
  Panic (5) 
  Combines total of caster’s IQ, LK and CHR to drive away foes with a lower Monster Rating or equivalent attribute 
  total. If spell monster chases spell-user to the exclusion of his or her comrades. 
   
  Revelation (4) 
  
   
   
  Usually detects concealed or invisible things or doors by surrounding them with a purple glow that slowly fades. 
   
  Skyhole (3) 
  This will pierce overcast or clouds, creating a hole directly between your position and the sun (or moon, or directly 
  overhead if only starlight is available). Lasts one (ten minute) turn. 
   
  Sparkler (3) [Range 30’] 
  Creates a yard-wide sphere of glowing motes, which moves about at the caster’s direction. It will weakly illuminate 
  a five foot radius. Lasts one turn or until dismissed. 
   
  Sticky Foot (3) [Range 30’] 
  This will glue one target’s foot to the ground for a second only (thus if they are not moving, they may never notice). 
  The target’s CHA cannot exceed the caster’s IQ. 
   
  Take That, You Fiend (6) [Range 250’] 
  Uses IQ as weapon, inflicting hits equal to caster’s IQ. Must be directed at an individual foe. No effect on inanimate 
  objects. 
   
  Vorpal Blade (5) 
  Doubles die roll for swords or daggers for one subsequent combat round. 
   
  Panic (5) 
  Combines total of caster’s IQ, LK and CHR to drive away foes with a lower Monster Rating or equivalent attribute 
  total. If spell monster chases spell-user to the exclusion of his or her comrades. 
   
  Unlock (2) 
  Unlocks locked doors. 
   
  Wedgie (5)  [Range 30’] 
  This forcibly yanks one person’s pants or underpants up into their personal regions. This will halve their adds for at 
  least one round. 
   
  Will-o-the-wisp (1) 
  Lights up finger or staff in lieu of a torch. About 1 candlepower. Lasts 1 turn. 
   
  Whisper (5) [Range 10’] 
  Originally a message spell of limited utility (note the short range), it was eventually used merely for starting brawls. 
  It allows the caster to “project” his voice so that it seems to be coming from a point right next to the target’s ear. The 
  spoken message cannot be longer than (caster’s MC) words. Higher levels double the range. 
   
  LEVEL 2: 
  Requires minimum IQ 12, DEX 9. Each spell costs 500 g.p. (payable to the Wizards’ Guild). 
   
  Antsy (7) [Range 30’] 
  This gives any one person the sensation of ants in the pants; it requires a L2 IQ SR to ignore. 
   
  Ass-o-Light (8) [Range 30’] 
  This causes one target’s posterior to burst into flames. The fire is purely visual effect and can do no actual damage; 
  the pain, however, is real. The whole event is but momentary, but will cause complete preoccupation for at least one 
  round. The target can completely deflect this spell with a L2 IQ SR. 
   
  Chameleon (5) 
  The person will blend into any background and be harder to hit (double missile SR) & easier to hide (halve hiding 
  SR). In melee, this will halve the attacker’s adds. Lasts 1 turn. 
   
  Concealing Cloak (10) 
  
   
   
  Makes user and his companions invisible for 3 turns. (Note: some solos treat this as a Level 1 spell.) 
   
  Cateyes (6) 
  Allows one to see in the dark for 3 turns. 
   
  Curse (2 - pt. removed) 
  Subtracts the level number of the caster from any prime attribute of a caster, or MR of a rated monster. The spell 
  lasts until it is removed by magic. If the curse causes death, removal of the curse will not bring the victim back to 
  life. 
   
  Delay (8) 
  Impedes movement/travel of victim by for 1 turn. In combat, this means you get 2 combat rounds to opponent’s one. 
   
  Enhance (10) 
  Triples die roll for any weapon for 1 subsequent combat round. 
   
  Flame Flick (5) 
  A small spurt of flame from the finger, which may be “flicked” up to 15 feet away. It may ignite dry combustibles, 
  or do 1-2 points of damage. 
   
  Fresh Breath (8) 
  Creates enough air for one person to breathe for one hour. It will not create excessive air pressure, and the air will 
  not be contained, but is free to bubble or blow away. 
   
  Giggles (10) [Range 30’] 
  This affects only one target, inflicting a giggle fit that lasts one round. This reduces all personal adds to zero and 
  increases all SRs by two levels. If the target is under stress at the moment, they are allowed a L2 IQ SR to deflect 
  the spell. 
   
  Glue You (8) [Range 30’] 
  Impedes movement/travel of victim by ½ for 1 turn. In combat, this means the magic user get 2 combat rounds to 
  opponent's one. 
   
  Hidey Hole (10) 
  Makes the magic user and his companions invisible for 3 turns. 
   
  Jack Frost (6) 
  Causes a layer of light frost to cover everything within 100 feet of the caster. 
   
  Little Feets (8) 
  Rapid travel; doubles speed for 1 turn. In combat the magic user get 2 rounds to opponents 1. 
   
  Magic Fangs (1/combat round) 
  Changes belt or staff into small poisonous serpent with MR not greater than caster’s CHR. “Cannot communicate” 
  with mage but will obey commands. Lasts as long as mage puts MC into it a time of creation. Does not work on 
  twigs or torches. 
   
  Moonbeams in a Jar (7) [Range 50’] 
  Creates light -- moonlight intensity -- over a ten foot radius area; lasts one turn. Higher levels may increase the 
  duration or radius. 
   
  Mirage (8) [Range 100’] 
  Projects visual, non-auditory image as hallucination. Destroyed by physical contact. 
   
  Night Blight (7) [Range 50’] 
  Creates darkness over a ten foot radius -- not total darkness, but as an overcast night; lasts one turn. Higher levels 
  
   
   
  may either double the duration or the radius. 
   
  No-Hear-ums (5) 
  Completely silences any activity done directly by the thief (caster). You can drag a table silently, but if a lamp falls 
  off it, there will be a noise. Lasts one turn. 
   
  Omnipotent Eye (5) 
  Provides more information about nature and/or level of magic on persons/objects. 
   
  Pepperload (5) [Range 30’] 
  This will affect one target whose IQ+LK+CHA cannot exceed the caster’s (higher levels increase this limit). Their 
  next mouthful of food or drink (if taken within the next round) will be a pure mixture of curry, tabasco, and 
  jalapeño. 
   
  Poor Baby (2 Mc per 1 CON) 
  Magical healing of wounds or injuries. Cannot raise Constitution above original level. 
   
  Portal Picture (4) 
  This creates a perfect three dimensional illusion of a passage through a wall or similar barrier. Lasts one (10 minute) 
  turn or until someone bumps into it. 
   
  Sleep Tight (9) [Range 30’] 
  Cast on a sleeping person, it will keep him asleep for one hour. Only a Dis -spell can awaken him. 
   
  Snuff (10) [Range 30’] 
  This can affect any number of targets, so long as the total CHA (or MR) does not exceed the caster’s IQ (higher 
  levels double this limit). They are inflicted with a sneezing fit that prevents any action for one round. 
   
  Swiftfoot (8) 
  Rapid travel; doubles speed for 1 turn. In combat you get 2 rounds to opponent’s 1. 
   
  Whammy (10) 
  Triples die roll for any weapon for 1 subsequent combat round. 
   
  Weathercast (7) 
  Will give the caster accurate knowledge of the general weather conditions in this region over the next 24 hours. 
   
  Yassa Massa (8) 
  Can be cast only on previously-subdued monsters/foes. Will permanently enslave if victim’s total ST, IQ and CHR 
  are less than that of wizard, or if MR is less (and remains so). 
   
  LEVEL 3: 
  Requires minimum IQ 14, DEX 10. Cost 1,000 g.p. each. 
   
  All Leathered-Up (4 per 1 Hit repaired) 
  Repairs damage done to non-metal armor or weapons. Over 50% of the original material must be present for the 
  spell to work. 
   
  Assay (6) 
  Accurately determines the value of precious metals & stones; also spots fakes and worthless items. 
   
  Curses Foiled (7) 
  Removes evil spells and curses of lower orders. 
   
  Drop! (10) [Range 50’] 
  This can affect any number of targets, so long as the total CHA (or MR) does not exceed the caster's IQ (higher 
  
   
   
  levels double this limit). They experience a sudden loss of pantaloon security. This will cause pants or skirts to drop 
  about the ankles; any sort of clothing that fastens about the waist will do -- this won’t work on robes, togas, etc. 
   
  Dummy Talk (8) [Range 30’] 
  The caster can supply up to (caster’s le vel) words that the target will then speak out loud. The target first gets a L1 
  IQ SR to resist the impulse; even if the target speaks the words, it will have no effect on the attitude or frame of 
  mind, and he can immediately countermand it. Some things, however, once said, are difficult to take back. 
   
  Blasting Power (8) 
  Throws bolt/fountain of fire at foes. This blast gets same number of dice as user's level number, plus caster’s combat 
  adds. 
   
  Bog and Mire (15) 
  Converts rock to mud/quick sand for 2 turns, up to 1000 cubic feet. Caster may dictate dimensions as desired, but 
  shape must be a regular geometric solid. 
   
  Crossed Tracks (8) 
  Hopelessly confuses any trail left by the caster and up to 9 other people. Can only be followed by using a Second 
  Sight spell. 
   
  Curse You (7) 
  Can curse one attribute lowering it by number of points equal to the level of this spell. If the attribute is reduced to 0 
  or less, the victim dies. The curse will last until a Curses Foiled is cast at a high enough level. 
   
  Curses Foiled (7) 
  Removes evil spells and curses of lower orders. 
   
  Dispel (11) [Range 50’] 
  Negates magic of same or lower orders. 
   
  Drearnweaver (11) 
  Puts monsters/foes to sleep for 1-6 turns (roll 1 dice to determine) if caster’s MC, IQ, and CHR total exceed MR (or 
  foe’s MC, IQ and CHR total if rated). 
   
  Fireball (6) [Range 100’] 
  A glowing red 6 inch sphere hurtles to the target & explodes. The caster must make the appropriate Dexterity saving 
  roll to hit, or specify a terminal range for explosion. Damage is 2 dice, no adds. Higher levels either double the 
  damage or the range. 
   
  Fly Me (7) 
  Allows user to fly (running speed) 1 turn. 
   
  Freeze Pleeze (8) [Range 70’] 
  Throws sheet of ice at foes. Blast gets same number of dice as user’s level number, plus caster’s combat Adds 
  (missile Adds if used). 
   
  Hard Stuff (15) 
  The reverse of Slush Yuck, turns mud/quicksand into rock for 2 turns, up to 1000 cubic feet. Caster may dictate 
  dimensions as desired, but shape must be a regular geometric solid. 
   
  Healing Feeling (14) 
  Cures any kind of disease. 
   
  Hide This (15) [Range 25’] 
  Used to hide any non-living object from sight only and will not mask any magical vibes, sound, or smells. Dispels 
  when touched. 
  
   
   
   
  Icefall (8) 
  Throws sheet of ice at foes. Blast gets same number of dice as user’s level number, plus caster’s combat adds. 
   
  Miasmal Fart (6) [Range 30’] 
  This creates a ten foot diameter cloud of the foulest smelling abdominal gases. It is not contained and will dissipate 
  normally. Higher levels double the diameter of the cloud. 
   
  No-See-ums (12) 
  Renders the caster invisible for one turn. The caster may move around freely. 
   
  Palm Objects (8) 
  This illusionary spell can be mentally cast. When cast it grants the user the ability to pick any item (which he or she 
  could normally pick up) which is fist sized or smaller, and cause the item to magically disappear as if by slight of 
  hand. Anyone touching or searching the caster’s hands or body will find nothing. This spell lasts for 3 turns, after 
  which the item magically returns to the caster’s hand. 
   
  Peek-a-boo (15) [Range 25’] 
  Allows the caster to see inside a Hidey Hole for one turn. Without the spell being dispelled. 
   
  Pretty Ugly (6) 
  Will double or halve CHA for 1 hour. 
   
  Rock-a-Bye (11) [Range 50’] 
  Puts foes to sleep for 1-6 turns (roll 1 die to determine) if caster’s ST, IQ, and CHR total exceed MR (or foe’s ST, 
  IQ and CHR total if rated). 
   
  Say Cheese (6) 
  Produces a flash of intense light from the caster’s palm -- anyone looking that direction (or anywhere in the vicinity 
  if at night) must make  an level 3 Luck saving roll or be dazzled (halve their combat roll, double their saving rolls, 
  etc.). If at night, anyone looking directly at the flash will be night-blinded for one turn if they fail a level 6 Luck 
  saving roll. 
   
  Scalpel, Please (2 Mc per 1 CON) 
  The caster’s finger cuts a clean incision, doing 1 (or more) points of damage. Can be used as a weapon, or to do 
  crude surgery (arrow removal, etc.) without excessive blood loss or risk of further infection. 
   
  Schwahh (17) 
  This spell causes all non-magical armor to lose it protection completely for 1d6 combat rounds. There is also a 2 in 6 
  chance that it will cause an additional ten percent in hits inflicted on the wearer due to the unknown vulnerability of 
  the armor.  
   
  Slip Slidin’ Away (16) [Range 30’] 
  Negates a lower level Glue You. 
   
  Slush Yuck (15) [Range 40’] 
  Converts rock to mud/quicksand for 2 turns, up to 1000 cubic feet. Caster may dictate dimensions as desired, but 
  shape must be a regular geometric solid. 
   
  Snowball (4) [Range 30’] 
  Hurls an ordinary snowball; caster must make the appropriate Dexterity saving roll to hit the target. (The snow 
  sublimates almost immediately after hitting the target.) Higher levels double the number of snowballs -- they may be 
  “thrown” separately or all at once. 
   
  Splint & Knit (7) 
  Sets and heals one broken bone instantly. 
  
   
   
   
  Sploosh! (10) [Range 50’] 
  Summons 20 gallons of water from the nearest source (if within a mile or so) and dumps it atop the target. 
   
  Stop That (18) [Range 20’] 
  Stops a s ingle foe in their tracks. If there are more than one foe in area the caster will become confused and 
  immobilize himself. Your foe will remain stuck for as long as you don't move suddenly and can still see them and 
  they you for up to fifty feet.  
   
  Take It Back (12) [Range 250’] 
  This is used to reverse a Take That, You Fiend! back to the caster. You must first make a saving roll on Intelligence 
  at the level of the caster to see if you are successful. If you fail your saving roll you take the full blast. This  spell 
  must be cast at two levels above the Take That, You Fiend! 
   
  Tinkle (11) [Range 30’] 
  This causes one target, whose CHA cannot exceed the caster’s IQ, to immediately lose bladder control. The effect 
  may depend on the target’s character, and on how full the bladder was (they get a L3 LK SR to avoid any real 
  distraction). If in combat, they will lose all personal adds for one round. 
   
  True-Tongue (8) 
  Forces one person to speak the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth for one turn (10 minutes). 
   
  Twinkle, Twinkle Foolish Gold (12) [Range 50’] 
  This illusion cause all round stones within fifteen feet of the target point to assume the appearance of gold nuggets 
  and coins. Once a person starts picking them up, they get a L3 IQ SR to discover the illusion. Lasts one turn. 
   
  Whimpy (20) [Range 10’] 
  Divides by three the foes weapon attack die roll for one combat turn. 
   
  Waterclean (10) 
  Completely purifies a quantity of water of all contaminants (including poisons); up to (the caster’s level squared) 
  quarts. 
   
  Web (8) [Range 50’]  
  Creates a 1 -layer mass of strong, sticky strands 20' x 40'. 
   
  Wings (7) 
  Allows user to fly (running speed) 1 turn. 
   
  Wraith Mist (10) 
  Causes the caster and everything carried to become an insubstantial but visible wavy mist. You can move about as 
  normal, and pass through cracks or key holes in doors. You cannot touch anything, only view your surroundings. 
  This spell does not give you any special vision to see in the dark. Airtight locations cannot be entered. This spell last 
  3 turns. 
   
  Zap! (8) [Range 150’] 
  A lightning bolt leaps from the caster’s finger to the target. Does dice damage equal to the caster’s level plus missile 
  adds. 
   
  LEVEL 4: 
  Requires minimum IQ 16, DEX 11. Cost 1,500 g.p. each. 
   
  Ask for Directions (30) 
  Reads the minds of every creature within a structure. Gets general directions (N, E, S, W, NE, etc.) on the way to 
  escape or leave that structure. May only be cast once per game. A second casting will be too strenuous for the 
  caster’s mind causing a fatal stroke. 
  
   
   
   
  Bat Eyes (20) [Range 75’] 
  Will make an enclosed room pitch black, that only the caster can see in for 1 turn.  
   
  Clumsy (8) [Range 20’] 
  Reduces victim’s Dexterity to 1. If this spell fails for some reason the caster’s Dexterity is affected instead. The 
  victim is allowed a saving roll on Dexterity at the casters level and if made the caster must make a saving roll on 
  Dexterity at one level higher to prevent the spell from failing. The effect of the spell can be negated by saying the 
  spell backwards costing 12 Mystic.  
   
  Chill (10) [Range 20’] 
  Cools the temperature of a small object (up to hobbit size) by 20°F for one turn. 
   
  Double-double (18) 
  Doubles one Prime Attribute for up to 5 turns. When spell wears off, attribute is halved for same number of turns. 
   
  Ding-a-Ling (18) [Range 50’] 
  Negates a Rock-a-Bye. 
   
  Dum Dum (8) [Range 20’] 
  Reduces foe’s Intelligence to 3. If spell fails for any reason, caster’s Intelligence is reduced to 3. 
   
  Eeek! (18) [Range 30’] 
  This causes one target, whose CHA cannot exceed the caster’s IQ, to be suddenly convinced they are completely 
  naked. Lasts one turn. 
   
  Essential Fart (10) [Range 50’] 
  Even worse than Miasmal Fart, more equivalent to tear gas. Any being caught in the effect will have to fight at one-
  half effectiveness or surrender. (This can be considered previously subdued)  
   
  Flame Out (10) [Range 50’] 
  Extinguishes a campfire sized fire (or up to four torches). Higher levels put out larger fires (e.g., a bonfire = L6, a 
  house fire = L8). 
   
  Gill Frill (16) 
  Allows a person to breath underwater for one hour. 
   
  Hot Stuff (10) [Range 20’] 
  Raises the temperature of an object (up to hobbit size) by 20°F for one turn. 
   
  House Call (50) 
  Works like Poor Baby only faster. Can restore up to 25 Constitutions points within 1 turn. This rapid healing is very 
  painful. The patient must have all broken bones already set, have foreign objects removed (arrows, stones, gravel, 
  etc.), and stay still for the entire turn for the healing to work. Failure to properly prep the patient will result in at best 
  no healing, and at worse improper healing (a broken bone knitting at a right angle, skin growing over an imbedded 
  arrow, etc.) 
   
  Instant Banking (20) 
  When cast upon a collection of loot (not exceeding the caster’s IQ in pounds), the goods will sink without a trace 
  into the ground beneath. It will stay there, safe from water, worms, & other natural hazards (but not from discovery 
  by others). The caster may recall it to the surface at any time, but after one year and a day, the spell dissolves and the 
  treasure reappears. 
   
  Invincible Flame (14) [Range 20’] 
  Cast on an existing fire (up to bonfire size), this will cause it to continue burning as long as the fuel remains, 
  regardless of presence of oxygen, high winds, even underwater, etc. Lasts one hour. 
  
   
   
   
  Ker-Rack! (10) [Range 30’] 
  If the caster’s IQ is at least half the victim’s CON or MR, he will cause one selected limb bone to shatter (this rarely 
  kills, damage is usually 1-3d plus loss of use of limb). 
   
  Mystic Woollies (15) 
  Cause the caster or one other person to be impervious to cold & immune to cold damage for one hour. 
   
  Protective Charm (8) 
  Caster takes any coin and places it on a wrist and casts the spell, a two foot diameter shield will appear. Nothing can 
  penetrate this shield as long as you can get/keep it between you and the weapon or projectile. (Best results if using 
  the optional hit location table)  
   
  Protective Pentagram (12) 
  Raises a protective barrier 3’ in diameter for 2 turns. No weapons or spells penetrate (in or out). 
   
  Sixth Sense (10) 
  Renders a person quite incapable of being surprised by anything for one hour. 
   
  Slamshut (10) [Range 30’] 
  Will close an opening of window (half-door) size; the surrounding material closes in and has its ordinary resistance 
  to breakage, etc. Lasts one hour if not smashed. Increased levels increase the size of the opening allowed. 
   
  Smog (11) [Range 50’] 
  Projects cloud of poison gas at foes. It foes breathe, they lose half power or more. 
   
  Snooze Alarm (12) 
  This is a simple ward; placed on a container or across a threshold, will instantly awaken and alert the caster when it 
  is triggered. Lasts for 12 hours or until triggered. 
   
  Stay-Cool (15) 
  This renders the caster or one other person impervious to heat & immune to all fire damage (except magical flames 
  created by a magic user (or dragon) with greater Intelligence than this spell's caster) for one hour. 
   
  Sunlight in a Bottle 12) [Range 50’] 
  Creates full daylight in a ten foot radius area; lasts one turn. Higher levels may double the duration or the radius. 
   
  Too-Bad Toxin (7) 
  Cures the effect of any poison and nullifies further effects. Does not heat the wound from weapon/fang that 
  delivered the poison. 
   
  Vapor Maker (10) 
  Creates high level clouds; they form within five minutes and last three turns. [If cast at Fifth level (cost = 20), the 
  clouds will be at ground level -- fog.] 
   
  Ward Warn (18+) 
  Placed across an opening, on an object, or an area of 10 foot radius with one other spell (which adds its Mystic cost 
  to this); that encapsulated spell will go off on the first being to cross/disturb the warded area. Lasts until triggered or 
  canceled. 
   
  Water Puppet (15) 
  Animates a body of water or vapor (up to one quart per Level of caster); it has movement ability within its natural 
  capacity and will act under the conscious direction of the caster. The range of control is not limited, but it will not 
  act independently or upon instructions. Lasts one turn. 
   
  Wink-wing (14) 
  
   
   
  Allows one to transport oneself (only) up to 50’ in direction of choice without crossing intervening space. 
   
  Witless (8) 
  Reduces foe’s IQ to 3, or if spell fails for any reason, caster’s IQ reduced to 3. 
   
  Whoopie Curses (12) [Range 30’] 
  This curse causes one target to emit loud farts whenever they sit down -- they are allowed an IQ SR at the caster’s 
  level to deflect it completely. The effect lasts until the next sunrise. Higher levels double the number of days. 
   
  Upsidaisy (9) 
  Permits caster to levitate and move objects or beings up to caster’s own weight for 1 full turn. 
   
  LEVEL 5: 
  Requires minimum IQ 18, DEX 12. Cost 2,000 g.p. each. 
   
  Bomb Lock (20) 
  Used to lock anything with a lock. When someone tries to open this locked lock, it will explode with a force equal to 
  the caster’s Intelligence.  
   
  Breaker, Breaker (35) [Range 50’] 
  Causes any weapon or armor to become so brittle it will shatter at the first impact. Any magic on that weapon or 
  armor will make it immune to this spell. 
   
  Cool It (10) [Range 50’] 
  Drops the temperature within a 25 foot radius by 10°F for one turn. 
   
  Dear God (30) 
  Allows one to ask 3 yes-or-no questions, of the Game Master, to be answered truthfully. 
   
  Defrost (8) 
  Heals any cold damage done to a living creature including a victim of cold spells, if cast at the same level as the 
  spell. This healing must occur within 2 combat rounds of the cold damage. 
   
  Extra Sensory Perception (20) [Range 20’] 
  Detects true intent of man or monster. 
   
  Fire Vision (26) 
  The caster may look into one fire and “see out of” any other fire within five miles. Lasts one turn. 
   
  Float Feet (15) 
  Allows a person to walk on water for one turn. 
   
  Flower Power (28) [Range 50’] 
  Causes all within fifty feet (including the caster) to desire nothing but peace, sweetness & harmony for one turn. 
   
  Fracture (35) 
  Causes any weapon or armor to become so brittle it will shatter at the first impact. Any magic on that weapon or 
  armor will make it immune to the spell. 
   
  Glow (10) 
  The caster glows with torchlight intensity. Those touching him will take 1d6 heat damage. Those grappling or being 
  grappled take 3d6. Lasts one combat round. 
   
  Hell Gloves (20) 
  Envelopes the caster’s hands in flames. The caster will then do 1 die damage by touch (each hand) as well as ignite 
  flammables. This will also grow to envelop any hand-held weapons and add one die to their combat damage as well 
  
   
   
  as render the attack magical. Lasts one round. 
   
  Hot Time (10) [Range 50’] 
  Raises the temperature in a 25 foot radius by 10°F for one turn. 
   
  Mind Pox (39) [Range 100’] 
  Causes mental confusion; the victim cannot attack or defend. Lasts 3 turns. Can affect any number of beings up to 
  level of caster. 
   
  Moon Banish (20) 
  A lunar eclipse affecting the area within one mile of the caster; lasts for one hour or until dismissed. Higher levels 
  double the radius. 
   
  Moxi-Toxi (15) [Range 45’] 
  Negates a Smog, but not the effect if one has already breathed the gas. 
   
  Peekaboo (15) 
  Renders any material (less than a foot thick) transparent for one turn. The area of transparency can be up to (level) 
  inches in diameter. 
   
  Perfect Portal Picture (22) [Range 30’] 
  This creates the illusion of a passage as in the second level Portal Picture, except that the caster and party may 
  actually pass through it. It disappears when anyone else tries to use it, or after one turn. 
   
  Rag Doll (20) 
  Cause paralysis. Denies victim all motor control below the neck. The effect is permanent but can be dispelled. 
   
  Second Sight (25) [Range 100’] 
  Allows one to distinguish between illusion and reality for 1 turn. 
   
  Stone You! (20) [Range 70’] 
  All throwing-sized rocks within fifty feet will leap off the ground and hurl themselves at the target. Damage depends 
  on the surrounding terrain, but is at least 2d6 and at most 10d6. 
   
  Think Throw (20) [Range 500’] 
  Allows the caster to telepathically converse with one person. Target must be known to the caster or within line of 
  sight; Lasts one round. (Higher levels increase range or duration.) 
   
  Trust Me (30) [Range 10’] 
  If cast upon a victim whose IQ+LK+CHA (or MR) is less than the caster’s, will cause the victim to believe 
  completely whatever the caster says. Lasts 1d6 hours. However, if the intended victim proves to have too high of 
  attributes, the victim then conceives a great loathing for the caster and seek to denounce him to the authorities or just 
  pound his face in. 
   
  Zingum (36) [Range 50’] 
  Allows one to transport double one’s weight 50’ in any direction. Works on non-living matter only. 
   
  LEVEL 6: 
  Requires minimum IQ 20, DEX 13. Cost 2,500 g.p. each. 
   
  Animation (20) [Range 50’] 
  Animates any inanimate object in a cartoony fashion; it sprouts legs and arms as necessary, and can manipulate 
  objects and obey simple commands. Its effective Strength and Dexterity depends on its original composition and 
  form. Lasts one turn. 
   
  Bridge of Ice (30) 
  
   
   
  Creates a bridge spanning at most 50 feet and capable of supporting (Intelligence × Level) × 100 pounds. (This is a 
  variant Wall spell and otherwise conforms to those standards.) 
   
  Broken Pentgram (24) 
  Negates a Protective Pentagram. Takes one turn to effect.  
   
  Dig Dig Dug (16) 
  The caster can move aside or remove earth (not solid rock) at the rate of 50 cubic ft/Level/round for one turn (five 
  combat rounds). (A tunnel a man can move through at a crouch is 100 cubic feet per four foot length.) 
   
  Goldnose (15) 
  Allows the caster to smell the scent of gold for one turn. 
   
  Ice Storm (16) [Range 100’] 
  Causes an instant hail storm over a 20 foot radius; it lasts one round and does little real damage (except to crops, 
  etc.). Higher level increase the radius. 
   
  Impotent Eye (15) 
  Hides nature and/or level from others who may use an Omnipotent Eye. 
   
  Mystic Ears (16) 
  The caster can hear what is going on in another known location [clairaudience]. Lasts one (ten minute) turn. 
   
  Mystic Visions (15)  
  Similar to Mirage spell, allows some movement of image projected. No sound, however, and movement for only 
  short distances. Can determine its unreality by the fact it can’t be touched, but touch will not cause it to vanish. Lasts 
  up to 5 turns, at caster’s option. 
   
  Panic! (32) [Range 50’] 
  All living beings within 50 feet of the caster must make an Intelligence saving roll at the caster’s level or flee in 
  terror. 
   
  Porta Vision (15) [Range 100’] 
  Clairvoyance spell. Allows one to see what is happening anywhere else by getting a mental picture of it. Must have 
  some knowledge of an object, person, or the place to key into - one cannot see into a totally strange place. Vision is 
  like a still photograph; cannot scan a whole area. 
   
  Stand Up & Walk (25) 
  Cures paralysis from any cause except a severed spinal cord (a Clone Grown spell will have to be combined with 
  this to cure that condition). 
   
  Superglue (26) [Range 30’] 
  This is an amplified and concentrated Glue You. The victim cannot move at all for one turn; but is subject to normal 
  time events (he can be moved, hurt, etc.). 
   
  Swerve-a-Curve (22) [Range 100’] 
  Will cause a wind whistle to curve back upon the caster.  
   
  Wall of Fire (26) 
  Puts a sheet of flame up between caster and foes. Will deliver caster’s IQ times his level to anyone 
  walking through the wall, unless the person is immune to fire. 
   
  Wall of Gloom (12) 
  This conforms to the standards for all Wall spells. Within the wall area there is total darkness; those entering must 
  make an level 6 Intelligence saving roll or panic and flee. 
   
  
   
   
  Wall of Ice (26) 
  Places a wall of ice between caster and foes. Will take caster’s as IQ times his level in hits to breech. 
   
  Wall of Iron (23) 
  Places a wall of iron between caster and foes. Impassable unless one can melt or warp iron. 
   
  Wall of Light (22) 
  This conforms to the standards for all Wall spells. The Wall glows very brightly, illuminating the area within fifty 
  feet. Anyone entering must take heat damage equal to the caster’s IQ and make an L3 LK SR  
  or be blinded for 
  d6 turns. 
   
  Wall of Thorns (14) 
  Puts a wall of thorns up between caster and foe. It can be cut or burned down, but anyone walking through it must 
  make a LK saving roll at the caster’s level to avoid falling asleep for 1-6 days. 
   
  Wall of Stone (20) 
  Places an impassable wall of stone up between caster and foes. Must be chopped through to avoid. 
   
  Wall of Water (12) 
  This conforms to the standard rules for Wall spells. It is just a wall of ordinary water. (Drinking it will do no good, 
  any water removed from the wall area disappears. It does, however, make a heck of a swimming pool.) 
   
  Wall of Wind (18) 
  This conforms to the standard rules for Wall spells. Within the wall’s volume, the air is hurtling around at hurricane 
  velocity. Anyone entering it must make a Strength saving roll at the caster's level or be hurled back (damage = ½ the 
  caster’s level in dice). 
   
  Wall of Wood (16) 
  This conforms to all the standards for Wall spells; this one is made of foot-thick oak beams. 
   
                                                   *       *        * 
   
  All the Wall Spells are immobile once created. All appear at the immediate distance of the magicker’s reach (i.e. the 
  end of his fingertips or staff). Can only be formed in the shape of a regular geometric solid, such as a rectangle or 
  square. Can be dispelled, but if not the wall will disappear after 1 day. Its size cannot surpass 1000 cubic feet. 
   
  LEVEL 7: 
  Requires minimum IQ 22, DEX 14. Cost 3,000 g.p. each. 
   
  Brain Strain (24) 
  Causes permanent insanity. The nature of the insanity -- subtle disorientation to raging lunacy -- is up to the GM, but 
  the experience difference between caster & victim should be taken into account. A 15th level Wizard should be able 
  to induce any desired type of insanity in a 1st level Warrior. 
   
  Bread & Water (15) 
  Suppresses a person’s need for food & water for up to three days, after which the lack will have to be made up. 
   
  Darkmeld (15) 
  The caster becomes a part of the night or deep shadow. They are nearly invisible when motionless and only silver or 
  enchanted weapons can strike them (however, a successful Medusa spell on a person in this state will still kill them). 
  The effect is dispelled by any strong light. Lasts one turn. 
   
  Forge-ery (10 per 1 Hit repaired) 
  Repairs damage done to metal armor or weapons. Over 50% of the original material must be present for the spell to 
  work. 
   
  
   
   
  Exchange (30) 
  This spell transmutes precious metals (including coins) into gems and vice versa. The total value in the exchange 
  cannot exceed the caster’s (IQ × 1000) in gp; no value is lost in the exchange. The gems thus created will be uncut 
  and unexceptional, of random types, weighing a hundredth of what the metal weighed (roughly). The reverse 
  process will create the equivalent value in (roll 1d6): 
   
  1 gold dust 
  2-3 gold nuggets 
  4-5 silver nuggets 
  6 gold coins 
   
  Icicle (20) [Range 100’] 
  Hurls a spear-like icicle into one target. Damage only equals the caster's Intelligence, but anyone taking  
  hits 
  must make a Luck saving roll at the caster’s level or lose half their Dexterity (due to chills) for one turn. Higher 
  levels increase the number of icicles -- which may be thrown separately, at different targets, or all at once. 
   
  Jemnose (20) 
  Allows the caster to smell the scent of precious gems for one turn. 
   
  Invisible Wall (27) [Range 50’] 
  Allows you to erect a force field from floor to ceiling that nothing but higher level magic can penetrate. Cannot be 
  moved once created, nor shaped to specifications. 
   
  Mist (20) 
  The caster turns into steam -- it lasts three (ten minute) turns or until dispelled, or dismissed by the caster. Use with 
  caution; you have no voluntary movement in this form, you are at the mercy of the winds (and temperature). 
   
  Nobody Home (25) 
  To any mystic or psychic probes, the caster's mind will appear as “not there;” a complete blank. His mind cannot be 
  read or even detected. Lasts one hour or until dispelled, or dismissed by the caster. 
   
  Older (25) [Range 25’] 
  Adds five years to the age of one person or object (living beings are allowed an level 3 Luck saving roll; objects get 
  no saving roll). 
   
  Open Sesame (15) 
  Creates an opening in a physical barrier about five feet across. The depth/length of the passage may be up to the 
  caster's level in feet. If the barrier is thicker than that, the spell fails completely. Will last for one hour unless 
  dispelled. 
   
  Rubble Crumble (25) [Range 100’] 
  Causes stone to slowly crumble into dust at the rate of 100 cubic feet per round for one turn (total volume = 8 foot 
  cube). Will not work on magical stone (golems, medusa victims, Walls of, etc.). 
   
  Speedy Me (25) 
  Elevates the caster’s (or another’s) time factor by six. The person operates six times faster, thus “disappearing” to 
  normal time perception (beings in normal time will be unable to see them, although they might sense their smell or 
  psychic presence). They react to gravity, mass, etc., in a way that is “normal” to their perception (thus they would 
  fall six times faster but still take normal damage for the distance fallen). Small objects held in their hand would 
  share their time factor, but living beings would not. This spell, therefore, is worthless for combat, as a speeded 
  warrior is unable to do real damage to normal time people (although he might steal their swords). 
   
  Speedy Them (25) 
  Reduces the caster’s (or another’s) time factor by six. They “disappear” to normal time perception and experience 
  10 minutes of time while the world goes through one hour. They may see stationary objects and people, but someone 
  moving at walking speed would be invisible to the slowed person. Use with caution, as collisions with unseen 
  
   
   
  horses, etc., can be very dangerous. 
   
  Wind Whistle (14) [Range 100’] 
  Calls up a breeze with a speed up to 10 m.p.h., lasts 1 turn Higher levels increase velocity of wind or duration (not 
  both). Caster must specify wind direction while casting the spell. Opposing winds of equal velocity will cancel each 
  other; a stiffer breeze will be partially negated by a lesser one but not completely nullified. 
   
  You Will Talk (25) 
  Endows an inanimate object with a mouth and the power of speech for 3 turns. The apparent intelligence of the 
  object will be very rudimentary, but depending upon GM’s determination, effective IQ will actually increase with 
  fine workmanship and greater age of the object (e.g., a cheap, new leather belt will be a useless dimwit, but a finely 
  wrought antique chair may be very erudite). 
   
  Zappathingum (24) 
  Enchants any weapon to 3 times normal effectiveness. Lasts 1-6 hours. 
   
  LEVEL 8: 
  Requires minimum IQ 24, DEX 15. Cost 3,500 g.p. each. 
   
  Alas, Poor Stiff (24) 
  Allows the caster to speak with a dead person; the corpse or at least a skull must be present. This does not actually 
  recall the spirit, but merely reactivates the memory & consciousness lying dormant in the remains. Lasts for one 
  round (2 minutes). 
   
  Armor of Flame (35) 
  Swaths the caster’s entire body in flames. This has all the same effects as the Hell Gloves spell. It also does 6 dice 
  damage if grappling or being grappled. It also heats up any melee weapon used against the caster by 20°F per round. 
  Lasts one turn. 
   
  Early Grave (30) [Range 30’] 
  For all practical purposes, the victim of this spell will appear to nature (and non-intelligent creatures) to be dead. 
  Scavengers may attempt to eat him as he sleeps, and worst of all he will actually begin to decompose -- losing one 
  point of Constitution each day. Also, no healing of any wounds is possible except by magic. There is no save and the 
  effect is permanent, although it may be removed like any curse. 
   
  Head Shrink (30) 
  Will cure all insanity, except that from a divine cause. 
   
  Mutatum Mutandis (24) 
  Enables you to change yourself into any other form of being/creature with a MR no higher than your combined 
  prime attributes. Gives you all the powers and abilities of that creature. Only lasts 1-6 turns at user's option, at which 
  time creature returns to original shape before the enchantment. Any hits taken to ‘Monster Rating’ must be taken 
  proportionately on original constitution. 
   
  Sun Screen (35) 
  A solar eclipse affecting the area within one mile of the caster; lasts one hour. Higher levels double the radius. 
   
  Twister (35) [Range 100’] 
  Creates a small cyclone under the direction of the caster; anything weighing less than (100 × caster's IQ) will be 
  picked up & thrown around. Lasts two rounds and can move at up to 40 feet per round. 
   
  Zapparmor (30) 
  Enchants any armor or shield to 3 times normal protection. Lasts 1-6 hours. 
   
  Zombie Zonk (36) 
  Creates zombies from corpses by doubling their STR and CON or MR. Lasts for 5 turns (50 minutes). The zombies 
  
   
   
  die if their master dies. 
   
  Rippin’ Stitchin’ (20) [Range 60’] 
  Will cause all wounds received (and previously healed) in the past 24 hours to instantly re-open. 
   
  Statuesque (20) 
  Allows the caster to petrify himself. He retains vision & hearing and may cancel the spell at any time. Lasts one 
  hour. 
   
  Water Spout (35) [Range 300’] 
  Creates a water twister that moves at the caster's direction (up to 40’ per round); lasts for two rounds. It will destroy 
  small boats and swamp larger ones, and pick up & hurl about any object weighing less than (IQ × 100) pounds. This 
  spell works only at sea or within 300 feet of a large lake or sea. 
   
  LEVEL 9: 
  Requires minimum IQ 26, DEX 16. Cost 4,000 g.p. each. 
   
  Cube You (25) [Range 50’] 
  Entraps one man-sized victim in a cube of solid ice. The cube takes (caster’s Intelligence × level) points of damage 
  to smash. Meanwhile, the victim is subject to the normal effects of freezing and suffocation. 
   
  Death Spell #9 (40) [Range 100’] 
  Kills the target if it cannot make a 9th level luck saving roll. 
   
  Diabolic Pet (35) 
  Summons up a familiar that will serve the caster for 1 die years or until banished. It is almost always an Imp, with an 
  MR no higher than the caster’s Intelligence. In addition to their regular abilities, they can also function as a Deluxe 
  Staff for their wizard (although they cannot remember spells requiring a higher IQ than they possess). They must 
  feed daily upon the wizard’s blood. [Caution: familiar or not, these creatures are still servants of Hell.] 
   
  Earth Merge (25) 
  The caster merges with the ground and may move through it at walking pace; even through solid rock. Lasts for one 
  turn or until the caster “surfaces.” 
   
  Fall of Light (30) [Range 100’] 
  This spell works only under direct, unobscured sunlight. It causes a shaft of greatly magnified sunlight to fall upon a 
  five foot radius area. All flammables will catch fire and the heat damage to all in the area equals the caster’s 
  Intelligence × 10. 
   
  Fire Portal (25) 
  Allows the caster to step into one fire and out of another up to five miles away. 
   
  Ice Merge (22) 
  The caster can become one with a body of ice and move through it at walking speed. Lasts three (ten minute) turns, 
  or until the caster leaves the ice. 
   
  Living Dead (40) 
  This functions exactly like Zombie Zonk, except that the zombies created will last indefinitely. 
   
  Medusa (30) [Range 40’] 
  Turns flesh to unliving stone. 
   
  Mutatum Mutandorum (26) [Range 20’] 
  Enables you to change others into any form with a monster rating no higher than combined prime attributes (as 
  much lower as you wish but not less than 5). Lasts 1-6 turns (caster's option), whereupon being reverts to original 
  form. Any hits taken on MR must be taken proportionately on original CON. 
  
   
   
   
  Pygmalion (28) [Range 40’] 
  Changes stone beings, statues, etc. to living flesh. GM should determine attributes for such, according to the Peters-
  McAllister chart or Monster Table, if possible. 
   
  Seance (25) 
  Recalls the ghost of a deceased person if the spirit resides in the Asphodel Fields (not Tarterus or Elysium) [note: in 
  other worlds, this translates to a limitation of only being able to call spirits that are in limbo, not those who have 
  been raised to Heaven or cast into Hell]. A particular person may be specified, or a random ghost will come. A cup 
  of blood must be ready for the ghost to consume; it will then converse for up to one hour (the ghost merely refuses 
  to come if there is no blood; these are shades only, with no substance or powers). 
   
  Watch Stop (40) [Range 50’] 
  This prevents the target from experiencing any time (and therefore, change) at all. They can be moved like a statue, 
  but their posture, etc., will not change, and they are totally invulnerable as the state of their bodies cannot be altered 
  (as by stabbing or crushing). Lasts one turn. 
   
  Water Way (20) 
  Allows the caster to merge with a body of water and move along within it at a rapid (up to 40 mph) speed. Lasts one 
  hour or until the caster exits the water. 
   
  Weather Master (30) 
  The caster may do one of two things: (a) Control what extant weather there is (rain, wind, lightning, etc.) in a limited 
  way for two turns; or (b) command what the weather will be like on the following day (must not be too unseasonal). 
   
  LEVEL 10: 
  Requires minimum IQ 29, DEX 17. Cost 4,500 g.p. each. 
   
  Blow me to.. (28) 
  Teleports you and a weight of up to 2000 units to any specific place you wish to go. Range limited to world you’re 
  on. 
   
  Dry Up! (30) [Range 100’] 
  Completely dehydrates one victim (man-sized or smaller); Strength immediately drops to one, and the victim must 
  receive at least one quart of water for each of the next four hours or will perish. Higher levels double either the size 
  or number of victims allowed. 
   
  Life Spell #10  (60) [Range 100’] 
  The caster must make a 9th level saving roll on Luck. If successful, this spell reverses Death Spell #9. The caster of 
  the Death Spell #9 then has to make his 10th level saving roll on Luck to keep from dying.  
   
  Ground Grip (35) 
  The caster becomes “rooted” to the earth and cannot be moved; lasts for one hour or until dismissed by the caster. 
  However, the caster also becomes of the same consistency as the ground he is standing on; use with caution. 
   
  Hellbomb Bursts (36) [Range 150’] 
  Disintegrates up to 100 cubic feet of anything. 
   
  Hollow Vision (50) [Range 100’] 
  Like Mirage spell, creates hallucination. Permits movement, auditory senses to be included. Touch will determine 
  unrealness, but will not cause the vision to vanish. Lasts up to 5 turns. 
   
  Stone Mold (30) 
  The caster may shape stone as if it were soft clay (does not work on magical stone). Lasts for one hour. 
   
  Smaller Is Smarter (33) [Range 50’] 
  
   
   
  Decreases size and value of any creature or object. Roll 1 die and add 1 , then divide current attributes by that 
  number. If a being with Prime Attributes is being decreased, only divide his or her ST, CON, and size. May not be 
  used cumulatively. Lasts 1 day only. 
   
  Weakling (35) [Range 25’] 
  When cast, your foe’s total attack is divided by three.  
   
  LEVEL 11: 
  Requires minimum IQ 30, DEX 18. Cost 5000 g.p. each. 
   
  Bigger is Better (33) [Range 50’] 
  Enlarges any creature. Roll one dice and add one. Use that number to multiply the MR or STR and CON of the 
  creature. The effect lasts for one day. 
   
  Blink (30) 
  The caster disappears and reappears in the same spot six seconds later. (If another person is now standing there, he 
  will be pushed aside with great force.) You are actually hurling yourself into the future, but maintaining the same 
  “coordinates.” This spell can theoretically be cast at higher levels, but it can be suicide to do so. The longer you 
  “hurl,” the wider you frame of reference for your coordinates will become. Thus instead of being positioned relative 
  to the ground at your feet, you may be positioned relative to the mass of the world (regardless of how it has rotated 
  or moved in the meantime), or even relative to the ether (which may long since have swept past the world). 
   
  Blow You To... (35) [Range 10’] 
  Allows you to teleport one other person plus a weight of up to 2000 units to any place you specify. If the character 
  does not wish to go, he or she should try to make a Saving Roll on IQ; determine the level of the roll by the 
  difference between the victim’s level and that of the caster. (Example: a 12th level magician tries to Blow Away a 
  4th level character; to prevent this, the 4th level character must make an 8th level roll.) If the victim consents to 
  being sent, no roll is required. Range limited to the world you are on. 
   
  Clone Grown (40) 
  Limb regeneration. The stump must not have been cauterized, and the spell mu st be cast within three days of the 
  severing. The limb will require 10 days to fully regrow. 
   
  Ghostly Going (45) 
  Astral projection a la Dr. Strange: Leave your body comatose behind you and roam in 
  an immaterial form, still able to cast spells. 
   
  Shadow Valet (40) 
  This calls forth a harmless, invisible spirit that can perform all butler and cook functions for the caster for one full 
  day. 
   
  Spontaneous Combustion (40) [Range 80’] 
  Cause one victim to burst into flames and be instantly reduced to ashes. The target is allowed a SR on IQ at (the 
  caster’s level minus their level); if they succeed, they still take damage equal to the caster’s IQ and their clothing is 
  on fire. 
   
  Stars Out (40) 
  Eclipses all starlight and moonlight within one mile of the caster; lasts one hour. Higher levels double the radius. 
   
  Holy Hell (45) 
  Traps anyone using a Ghostly Going in the wall or door they try to pass through.  
   
  LEVEL 12: 
  Requires minimum IQ 33, DEX 19. Cost 5,500 g.p. each. 
   
  Circle of Binding (35) 
  
   
   
  Create a circle on the ground which will contain any ghosts, demons, undead, etc. that may be lured or conjured into 
  it. Only spirits with an MR greater than (caster’s Intelligence × Level) may break free. Lasts one hour. 
   
  Instant Burial (28) [Range 50’] 
  The ground will open up beneath one target (of up to ogre size), swallow him and slam shut. Damage done depends 
  on the ground consistency, but usually runs 20 to 120, not to mention suffocation. Higher levels double the number 
  or size of targets. 
   
  Head Gauge (40) [Range 100’] 
  Reveals to the caster the deepest thoughts and inmost motivations of one target. It will reveal demonic possession, 
  psychic control, mental illness, etc. 
   
  Limbo Trip (40) [Range 50’] 
  Casts one victim into a dimension (plane) of absolute sensory deprivation. Roll 2 dice; on a snake-eyes, he is 
  consumed by the unknown monsters there. Otherwise, he will return to the same spot three turns (30 minutes) later. 
  If he fails an level 1 Intelligence saving roll, he will have been driven stark staring looney by the experience. Even 
  the sturdiest of persons usually return screaming and take several minutes to recover. 
   
  Nefarious necromancy (60) [Range 150’] 
  Temporarily restores the dead to life. A person brought back to life this way lives for as many turns as the restorer's 
  Luck rating. 
   
  Return Ye (75) 
  Returns your body and possessions to your stable. Triggered must be specified (possibilities include: moment of 
  death, 1 hour, first attack, etc.)  
   
  Seek Ye (30) [Range 50’] 
  May be used to force any sentient being to go on a quest at the wizard’s command. GM must agree that the quest is a 
  reasonable one and fulfillable within the conditions specified. 
   
  World Goes By (45) 
  Reduces the caster’s (or another’s) time factor by 72. See Speedy Them for the basic effects. The person will 
  experience only 10 minutes of subjective time while the world goes through 12 hours. A person under this spell 
  must be moved very carefully; if, for example, you straightened out their arm, their muscles might not be able to 
  keep up with such “rapid” motion and the tendons could snap. 
   
  World Stop (45) 
  Increases the caster’s (or another’s) time factor by 72. See Speedy Me for the basic effects. The speeded person will 
  live through 12 hours of time in only 10 minutes; to their perception the entire world has stopped dead still. 
  However, at this level the isolation of the altered time factor is a bit blurry & imperfect. Rapid movement can 
  actually cause windburn; hitting something hard can demolish your hand (because it was moving at several hundred 
  mph); and it can take quite a “long” time to open a large door (the fraction of a second it takes to overcome the 
  door's inertia). 
   
  White Out (40) 
  A blinding blizzard springs up, covering the area within 100 feet of the caster. All within (except the caster) must 
  make an level 3 Constitution saving roll or lose three Dexterity per round to the freezing cold; Lasts one full turn. 
  Higher levels double the radius or the duration. 
   
  LEVEL 13: 
  Requires minimum IQ 34, DEX 20. Cost 6,000 g.p. each. 
   
  Aurora (40) 
  The caster gains a prismatic aura, all seeing it must make an level 3 Luck saving roll or be dazzled (halve  
  their 
  combat rolls, double their SR levels, etc.). The caster is immune to spells cast be dazzled opponents and does touch 
  damage equal to Charisma × 1d6. Lasts one round. 
  
   
   
   
  Brain Repair (45) 
  Heals points of IQ lost due to illness, injury, magic, poison, or monsters. Will restore all lost IQ, but not to a higher 
  total than the caster's IQ. 
   
  Door #13 (75) 
  Opens a portal to another plane. (There are no known limits to this spell, except that the other plane must be 
  personally known to the caster. So to open a door to Tarterus, you must first have traveled to Tarterus and returned.) 
   
  Fire Storm (55) 
  A circular wave of raging flames spreads outward from the caster to a radius of 50 feet, doing (Intelligence × 
  caster’s Level) damage and igniting everything that might conceivably burn. Higher levels double the damage or the 
  radius. 
   
  Ghost Glue (60) 
  Temporarily binds a ghost (or the stolen spirit of a living person) into an object. The victim retains consciousness, 
  but cannot employ or exhibit any powers. Lasts one week (but can be made (semi)permanent by the Some 
  Enchanted Item spell). 
   
  Invisible Fiend (50) 
  Invokes a demonic fiend with a MR equal to your combined Prime Attributes + 25. Fights with poisoned teeth and 
  claws unless given a weapon. If the Fiend gets any hits on a character, roll 1 die for every 10 points of CON; the 
  result is the number of turns the character has to obtain a Too-Bad Toxin before dying. The GM should 'play' the 
  Fiend as devious, treacherous, and double-dealing. Tasks set for an Invisible Fiend should always include blood-
  letting. Each time the Fiend completes a task, its master must make a 13th level SR on CHR to avoid attack. If the 
  SR is made, its master can send it away or set another task. 
   
  Mole Hole (50) 
  Cast a hole large enough to walk through in a Force Shield on a roll of 1 or 2 on a 1d6 or an Invisible Wall as long 
  as that wall was cast at 13th level or lower.  
   
  Summon Ice Demon (70) 
  Summons one Ice Demon that will serve for 1d6 hours. (Refer to Demonology School.) Roll a die for which type 
  you get: 
  1-3  Class I 
  4-5  Class II 
  6  Class III 
  {NOTE: until (if ever) I get the demonology school posted on this site, use an ordinary demon made of ice with an 
  MR of 2d6 × 20} 
   
  Summon Kobolds (45) 
  Kobolds are minor earth elementals and usually have MR’s well below 10. The number appearing (popping out of 
  the ground) will have a total MR not more than the caster's CHA. They will obey the caster’s commands for one 
  turn, after which they will return to the ground or seek revenge for being commanded to do something really stupid. 
   
  Wizard Speech (90) [Range 100’] 
  The Universal Translator. Spell allows whoever it is cast upon to understand, and be understood in, all the High and 
  Low Languages. Lasts 6 turns. 
   
  LEVEL 14: 
  Requires minimum IQ 36, DEX 21. Cost 6,500 g.p. each. 
   
  Cast Ye Out! (60) 
  Drives a possessing demon out of its victim (it may then be free to possess another, or attack, etc.). If the demon’s 
  MR exceeds the caster’s total attributes, or if its Intelligence is greater than the caster’s, it will pass from the victim 
  and possess the caster! (That’s what higher casting levels are for, they double the above limits.) 
  
   
   
   
  Force Shield (42) [Range 100’] 
  Wall of colored light that cannot be penetrated by any lower-level magic or weapons. Wizard can shape and move 
  the Force Shield. If a being trapped behind or within one can make a 14th level Saving Roll on ST or IQ (GM’s 
  choice), he or she can shatter it. 
   
  Master of Corruption (50) [Range 100’] 
  The caster can control all ordinary forms of undead, so long as the individual Intelligence does not exceed his own, 
  and the total MR does not exceed (caster’s Level × (IQ + CHA)). Lasts 12 hours. 
   
  LEVEL 15: 
  Requires minimum IQ 38, DEX 22. Cost 7,000 g.p. each. 
   
  Air, Earth, Fire and Water (42) 
  Allows you to conjure an elemental to use as a servant for 5 turns. Its MR will equal the total of your attributes, 
  times two. Elementals can be fought, but can be easily nullified by sending the opposite type against it (fire vs. 
  water, earth vs. air). 
   
  Demon Binding (85) 
  Permanently binds a demon into an enchanted object; it adds the demon’s powers to that object, and the caster can 
  then utilize any of the demon's mystic powers through the object. (Example: an ordinary demon is bound into a 
  sword -- the sword gets normal dice, but the regular adds are replaced by the demon’s adds, and its attacks are 
  magical.) The demon's proper name must be known and used in the spell. The victim demon’s Intelligence may not 
  exceed the caster’s, nor may its MR exceed the caster’s (Level × Intelligence). 
   
  LEVEL 16: 
  Requires minimum IQ 40, DEX 23. Cost 7,500 g.p. each. 
   
  Anti-Magic Spell (65) [Range 500’ max] 
  Can be used selectively to negate and cancel any lower level magic in the wizard’s area of view. Lasts 3 turns once 
  set in motion. 
   
  Exorcism (MR of Being) [Range 150’] 
  The caster may use this spell to negate the power of the Undead. It will dissipate ghosts, slay vampires, withdraw the 
  power of movement from zombies, etc. Works only on undead forms, however. MR should not be revealed prior to 
  spell's use. 
   
  Greater Elements (68) 
  Conjures up a greater Elemental -- it will serve for one turn or one task. It will have an MR of (caster’s Intelligence 
  × Level) and have mystic powers to control its element as appropriate. 
   
  LEVEL 17: 
  Requires minimum IQ 42, DEX 24. Cost 7,000 g.p. each. 
   
  Banishing (150) [Range 500’] 
  Returns demons, invisible fiends, imps and the like back where they came from. The Banishing must be at the level 
  of the person who originally summoned the demon, to be effective. 
   
  Delux Staff  (special) 
  This is a spell you can’t do, folks. You may buy deluxe staves from the Guild (5000 GP), but they are made by a 
  small, very secretive clan of wizards who like their privacy. There is no such thing as “deluxe staff material” for 
  weapons or armor. 
   
  Demon Calling (120) 
  As per the Summoning spell, but if the caster makes an Intelligence saving roll, he may specify the type of demon 
  summoned. The level of the saving roll is based on the desired demon's class or level number if it has one, or equals 
  
   
   
  the average MR/20. 
   
  Summoning (100) 
  Summons a demon with a MR equal to the magician’s combined ST, LK, IQ and CHR. If the demon is used simply 
  as a monster, the MR will suffice. If he is used as a character, however, the MR should be distributed among 6 
  attributes. A demon’s form mu st be specified upon the Summoning, and if he is asked to change form the spell will 
  be broken and the demon will be released. Demons will serve from 1-6 hours (roll 1 die). Demons know and can 
  cast any spell their IQ, DEX and ST will permit them to, but they suffer the same ST loss as a wizard for doing so; 
  however, they recuperate ST at 10/turn. 
   
  LEVEL 18: 
  Requires minimum IQ 44, DEX 25. Cost 8,000 g.p. each. 
   
  Demon Dumping (165) 
  A more powerful form of Banishing. It will dismiss any demon whose Intelligence is not greater than the caster’s, or 
  whose MR is not greater than the caster’s (Intelligence × Level). Bound demons must first be freed in order to be 
  dismissed. 
   
  LEVEL 19: 
  Requires minimum IQ 46, DEX 26. Cost 9,000 g.p. each. 
   
  Soul Snatch (150) 
  Steals the spirit of one victim (must be within line of sight; or may be up to one mile away if the caster possesses a 
  lock of hair or such). Unless imprisoned or bound, the spirit is immediately free to seek out its body again. If the 
  soul is gone for 21 days, the body will die. 
   
                                                      *          *           * 
   
  There are other spells available to the wizards of the world, but those listed above will allow you to work through 
  the solo adventures the best. As a Game master you should feel free to create spells on your own. 
   
  TIME 
   
   
  Regular turns in Tunnels and Trolls are 10 minutes in length. Combat rounds are 2 minutes in length. Wizards 
  recover one Mystic point per 10 minutes, and may cast one spell per Combat Round. It is easy for a wizard to tire 
  himself out very quickly. Warriors may attack once, hand to hand or with missile weapons, per combat round. 
  Damage to a character’s CON is recovered at one point per day unless magic is used to speed the healing process. 
   
  HEIGHT & WEIGHT 
   
  Height and Base Weight Chart (for ×1 HT kindred, one roll for both Height and Weight)  
  3 dice  Height  Weight (lbs)  
  3 dice  Height  Weight (lbs) 
  3  
  4'  
  75  
   
  11  
  5' 8"  
  170 
  4  
  4' 3"  
  85  
   
  12  
  5' 11"  
  180 
  5  
  4' 5"  
  95  
   
  13  
  6' 1"  
  190 
  6  
  4' 8"  
  105  
   
  14  
  6' 4"  
  200 
  7  
  4' 10"  
  115  
   
  15  
  6' 6"  
  225 
  8  
  5' 1"  
  125  
   
  16  
  6' 9"  
  250 
  9  
  5' 3"  
  145  
   
  17  
  6' 11"  
  280 
  10  
  5' 6"  
  155  
   
  18  
  7' 2"  
  310 
   
  To find the final weight roll 3 dice again and multiply the base weight by its multiplier 
   
  Roll Base  
  Weight Multiplier  
  Roll Base  
  Weight Multiplier 
  3-4  
   
  × 0.8  
   
   
  13-14  
   
  × 1.05 
  
   
   
  5-6  
   
  × 0.9  
   
   
  15-16  
   
  × 1.1 
  7-8  
   
  × 0.95   
   
  17-18  
   
  × 1.2 
  9-12  
   
  no change   
   
  EXPERIENCE 
   
  Tunnels and Trolls allows characters to grow and pass from one adventure to another. To do that characters earn 
  adventure points through experience. Adventure points are earned for the following: 
   
  COMBAT: points equal to the MR or totaled IQ, CON and STR of the vanquished foe. 
   
  SAVING ROLLS: points equal to the dice roll times the level of the roll. (A 2nd level roll where the dice yielded a 
  total of 14 would give the character 28 a.p.’s.) 
   
  CASTING MAGIC: points equal to the actual Mystic points used in spell casting. 
   
  GM AWARDS: Successfully completing a mission or achieving a similar feat will be worth points and the GM will 
  state what the award is. The minimum a.p.’s for any adventure in a solo should be 100 a.p.’s. Many more can be 
  given in ongoing campaigns. 
   
  Watching your characters grow and prosper is one of the major pleasures of this game. Earlier, we noted how one 
  accumulates experience/adventure points. This section will tell you what those points will do for you. T&T is a 
  game of growth as well as destruction (although occasionally growth by destruction) and it is hoped that as your 
  paper alter egos grow in power and wisdom, so, too, will you. 
   
  Below are listed the experience points required to attain each level. Obviously a character should have to go through 
  quite a number of adventures before he or she will reach 5th, 9th or higher levels - if this isn't so, then the GM is 
  being too generous with APs, which can ultimately spoil the game for all. Be fair, but not overly generous. 
   
  All characters start at 1st level and, as they collect a.p.’s they progress up in levels. Below are the totals of a.p.’s 
  needed to reach the first 11 levels: 
   
  1 
      0 
  2  
  1,000 
  3  
  3,000 
  4  
  7,000 
   
  (Points needed to reach these levels are cumulative.) 
  5  
  15,000 
  6  
  25,000 
  7  
  45,000 
  8  
  70,000 
  9  
  100,000 
  10  
  140,000 
  11 
  200,000 
  12 
  280,000 
  13 
  400,000 
  14 
  550,000 
  15 
  750,000 
  16 
  1,000,000 
  17 
  2,000,000 
  18 
  4,000,000 
  19 
  8,000,000 
  20 
  16,000,000 
   
  As can be seen, after the 16th level, the adventure points required double every time. This is also the way to 
  compute level points required above the 20th level: 21st level takes 32 million, 22nd level takes 64 million, etc. 
   
  
   
   
  CHARACTER LEVELS: Once a character has garnered enough points to pass up to a new level he can modify 
  one of his “prime attributes”. Below are the options he may use to modify his attributes.  
   
  A:   
  Add new level number to Strength 
  B:   
  Add ½ new level number to Intelligence 
  C:   
  Add twice new level number to Luck 
  D:   
  Add new level number to Constitution 
  E:   
  Add ½ new level number to Dexterity 
  F:   
  Add new level number to Charisma 
  G:   
  Add ½ new level number to Strength and ½ to Constitution 
  H:  
  Add new level number to Mystic 
  I:   
  Add new level number to new Skill Slots  
  J:   
  Add new level number to Speed  
   
  By upping the attributes, through encounters, adventures, and level raises, your character will have a whole host of 
  spells and weapons made available to him. Money will allow him to buy armor or those weapons and spells, making 
  him better able to face the trials and tribulations of the adventures he/she might face.  
   
  Remember that non-human kindreds should keep multiplying attribute gains by their racial multipliers. Thus as they 
  gain in experience it continues to be according to natural strengths and weaknesses. The Monsters! Monsters! Game 
  (based on T&T) allows for greater attribute increases for monsters, so this is in the spirit of the rules. 
   
  AUXILIARY CHARACTERS 
   
  For those with money to burn, there are two kinds of human auxiliary characters: slaves, and hirelings. 
   
  SLAVES 
   
  Slaves have no personal Luck or Charisma ratings and are usually of low IQ. Their Luck may be considered that of 
  their master's, and while a slave may be good-looking, he or she will not have the leadership abilities that go with 
  standard CHR. 
   
  You may select any number between 3 and 18 for each of a slave’s remaining 4 attributes (ST, IQ, CON, DEX). The 
  slave will cost 10 GP for each attribute point. (For example, a slave with a ST of 10, IQ of 5, CON of 10, and DEX 
  of 9 will cost you 340 GP.) 
   
  If you want a slave with visible good looks, you will have to pay for a CHR rating at the same scale, 10 GP per 
  point. To get a stunning slave with a beauty of 18, you will have to fork out an additional 180 GP. Otherwise, slaves 
  may be considered to have a CHR of zero. 
   
  Slaves may be either male or female. 
   
  HIRELINGS 
   
  A dungeon delver may hire characters to go with him into dungeons. Such auxiliaries will have all 6 attributes and 
  again you may choose their attribute points. However, to hire them will cost you 2 GP per attribute p oint, and you 
  must pay for any equipment, arms or armor. 
   
  Hirelings expect a share of the treasure upon reaching the surface - payable to them, or to their heirs - to the tune of 
  25% of your own share of the loot. Warriors, wizards, and rogues can be hired, but not warrior-wizards (they're too 
  proud of their status). 
   
  If you renege on paying your hirelings or their heirs, you face probable destruction - warriors will waylay you in the 
  streets (and the city guards will probably help them), wizards will curse you, and rogues will jump you in a dark 
  alley some night. Everybody has friends... 
  
   
   
   
  RANDOM TREASURE 
   
  When you are told to roll on the jewel generation table, start by rolling 1 die to find out how big it is: 
   
  1 or 2:  small (5x base value; 1 weight unit) 
  3 or 4:  average (10x base value; 2 weight units) 
  5 or 6:  large (20x base value; 4 weight units) 
   
  • To find out what kind of gem it is, roll 2 dice: 
  2  
  Emerald (base value 18 gold pieces) 
  3  
  Sapphire (base value 16 gold pieces) 
  4:  
  Pearl (base value 14 gold pieces) 
  5  
  Topaz (base value 5 gold pieces) 
  6  
  Aquamarine (base value 11 gold pieces) 
  7  
  Amethyst (base value 6 gold pieces) 
  8:  
  Opal (base value 8 gold pieces) 
  9:  
  Garnet (base value 4 gold pieces) 
  10:  
  Jade (base value 12 gold pieces) 
  11:  
  Ruby (base value 15 gold pieces) 
  12:  
  Diamond (base value 17 gold pieces) 
   
  Multiply the gem’s base value by its size multiplier to get the jewel’s value, the number of gold pieces it is worth. 
   
  TREASURE GENERATOR 
   
   
  Some of the monsters in this dungeon carry treasure, or have it hidden in their room. When told to randomize for 
  treasure, use the following procedure, and then go back to the paragraph you came from. 
   
  Roll two dice: if your total is from 3 to 11, you found some sort of money. If your total is either 2 or 12, your loot is 
  a magical object.   
   
  If you are just getting money, roll 1 die. Results: 1 is a jewel. 2 or 3 is gold coins. 4, 5 or 6 is silver coins. If you get 
  gold or silver coins, you must roll 3 dice and multiply the total by 10 to get how many you find; triples add and, roll 
  over.  
   
  JEWEL GENERATION TABLE 
   
   
  You will need two dice, preferably of different Colors and green (or 1 die thrown twice). Roll them, and look up the 
  appropriate combination below. 
   
  Red 
  Green 
  Name of Stone 
   
  Base Value in g.p. 
  1 
  1,2 
  Quartz  
   
   
  1 
  1 
  3,4 
  Enamel  
   
   
  2 
  1 
  5,6 
  Topaz 
   
   
   
  3 
  2 
  1,2 
  Garnet  
   
   
  4 
  2 
  3,4 
  Turquoise 
   
   
  5 
  2 
  5,6 
  Amethyst 
   
   
  6 
  3 
  1,2 
  Ivory 
   
   
   
  7 
  3 
  3,4 
  Carnelian 
   
   
  8 
  3 
  5,6 
  Opal 
   
   
   
  9 
  4 
  1,2 
  Fire-opal 
   
   
  10 
  4 
  3,4 
  Aquamarine 
   
   
  12 
  4 
  5,6 
  Jade 
   
   
   
  14 
  
   
   
  5 
  1,2 
  Serpentine 
   
   
  16 
  5 
  3,4 
  Pearl 
   
   
   
  20 
  5 
  5,6 
  Ruby 
   
   
   
  25 
  6 
  1,2 
  Sapphire  
   
  30 
  6 
  3,4 
  Diamond 
   
   
  40 
  6 
  5,6  
  Emerald  
   
  50 
   
  (Roll one more die.) This will tell you the size of the gem you have just created: 
   
  1 -  
  Very small. Two times the base value in gold pieces. 
  2 - 
  Small. Ten times the base value.  
  3 -  
  Average. Twenty times the base value.  
  4 -  
  Large. Fifty times the base value.  
  5 -  
  Very large. A hundred times the base value.  
  6 -  
  Huge. Five hundred times the base value. 
   
  TABLE OF MAGIC TREASURES 
   
  Roll 1 dice (1-6) and go to that number on the list below to see what you found. 
   
  1 
  ROBES OF TUCHMI K'NOTT: Flowing robes in the Roman toga fashion that are magical armor. When 
  wearing these robes you can take up to 200 hits in a combat turn before you can be hurt. But if you are ever defeated 
  for 3 combat turns in a row, you will be overpowered, disarmed, and captured, and then the robes won’t help you a 
  bit. If the robes are taken away from you, they become worthless cloth and the enchantment will be broken. 
   
  2 
  A RING OF FIRE: It enables the wearer to cast fireballs worth 100 hits once each combat turn. However, 
  if you use the ring in hand to-hand or any kind of close combat, you will be at the Center of the fireball (which is 
  about 5 feet in diameter) and you will have to take 50 of the 100 hits yourself. 
   
  3 
  A 20th LEVEL ANTI-MAGIC BELT: Whoever wears this belt cannot be affected by any other spell, 
  either FOR or AGAINST the warrior (only warriors can wear it). 
   
  4 
  THE DAGGER “DRAINER”: While you are using it, your foes lose all their combat adds, and their 
  weapons become worth only 1 die each (unless they are magical weapons, in which case, no effect on the weapon). 
  You get your adds and 2 dice for the dagger. This  is a 10th level spell. 
   
  5 
  A FUNNY-ONCE GEM: Death is funny - once. If you are killed while carrying this gem, you will come 
  back to life unharmed in the Temple of Peace in Khazan - safely out of any adventure you may have been in, but 
  without the adventure points gained for it. At this time your CHR will drop to 7 and the jewel will be gone. 
   
  6 
  A BOX OF MAGIC POWDER: with instructions to sniff it. This is 8th level magic. Roll one die, for odd 
  or even. ODD: Sniffing the powder makes you truly invisible - not as in a Concealing Cloak, but truly invisible. The 
  spell does NOT affect objects you may be carrying, like clothes, armor, or weapons. EVEN: The powder doubles 
  your intelligence. There is just enough powder for one application. 
   
  TABLE OF ENCHANTED WEAPONS 
   
  Here is a list of odd enchanted weapons any Game Master should have fun with. 
   
  1.  
  Egil’s Bow... a simple self-bow of linden wood. User hits automatically with the effect of 30 dice. Requires 
  a ST of 16 to string and a ST of 13 to pull. Those without sufficient ST will always miss. 
   
  2.  
  The Bronze Bodkin... worth 66 dice in combat. (No berserkers.) Cannot be enchanted or poisoned. 
   
  
   
   
  3.  
  Gold Armband... weighs 10 weight units. Wearer is immune to Hellbomb Bursts. 
   
  4.  
  The Dagger of Speed... whoever holds it can always move at twice his normal rate of speed, and gets 2 
  combat turns to his opponent’s one. Worth only 1 die in combat. 
   
  5.  
  Deth... a great sword, 7 feet long and worth 21 dice in combat. Can be used by anyone with a minimum ST 
  of 9. 
   
  6.  
  Hellslice... a battered-looking falchion with a demon imprisoned in the blade that makes it worth 42 dice in 
  combat. Even when the wielder takes hits, he gets to count the 42 dice against his foe. 
   
  7.  
  Finnegan’s Flail... on the first combat turn of any fight it is worth 9 dice + 12 adds. On subsequent turns it 
  is only worth 3 dice + 4 adds. Requires a Strength of 20 and a Dexterity of 15 to use. 
   
  8.  
  The Heavy Flail... gets 36 dice in combat. Subtracts the user s level number in ST points for each combat 
  turn used. 
   
  9.  
  The Frog Axe.. gets 6 dice in combat and enables the wielder to hop up to 50 feet in any direction once 
  each combat turn. However, it will not allow you to hit and hop the same turn. 
   
  10.  
  Nevermiss... a crossbow worth 5 dice that teleports its bolts up to 100 yards to the intended destination, 
  getting 5 dice of hits every time. 
   
  11.  
  12 Silver-Tipped Arrows ... each arrow strikes 33 dice worth of hits when shot from any bow - providing 
  the shooter hits his target. 
   
  12.  
  Levity... a small ordinary 3-dice crossbow. Its bearer cannot touch the ground (walking an inch or so above 
  it), and can fly up to 100 yards above the ground at will (top speed is the speed of a crossbow bolt). 
   
  13.  
  Trollbow... a triple-sized arbalest made for Trolls. Gets 42 dice if it hits. Requires a ST of 45 to recock by 
  hand. 
   
  14.  
  The Little Silver Thunderstick... a single-shot, muzzleloading wheelock pistol, ornamented with silver 
  plates bearing a portrait of Lerotra’hh in miniature. Also, enough powder and shot for 100 firings. Accurate up to 50 
  yards. Valued at 3000 gold pieces. Gets 8 dice + 25 adds, and must be used like any other missile weapon. 
   
  15.  
  Daggered Boots... in combat, daggers extend from the boot toes, giving 4-dice (total) kicks per combat 
  turn. 
   
  16.  
  Cross Kris... a short sword of meteoric iron worth 9 dice in combat. Protects the wielder from all 3rd level 
  and lower spells. 
   
  17.  
  The GreatSword Carrot... anyone or thing taking hits from it is changed into a harmless bunny rabbit 
  with a Monster Rating of 1. Intelligent characters retain their IQ and memory, although they can’t talk. Carrot gets 8 
  dice in combat and dishes out a 9th level curse if its hits are scored. 
   
  18.  
  A Bottle of Warrior Juice... any warrior who drinks it doubles his ST and CON. Any rogue or magic user 
  who drinks from it loses the ability to work magic. One dose per person. A second dose is fatal. Value 2000 g.p. 
   
  19.  
  Hardpull the Longbow... requires a minimum ST of 48 to draw. It gets one die worth of damage for each 
  ST point used in pulling it. Good at any distance up to 1 mile, but you have to be able to see what you're shooting at. 
   
  20.  
  The Long Golden Thunderstick... a single-shot, muzzleloading flintlock musket rifle with golden butt-
  plates and chasing, complete with powder and ammunition for 100 rounds. Valued at 7000 GP. Gets 12 dice + 40 
  adds, Treat it as any other missile weapon. It is accurate up to 200 yards. 
   
  
   
   
  WANDERING CREATURE LIST 
   
  Roll two ordinary 6-sided dice to determine which monster the PC’s encounter (2-12). Adventure Points (a.p.). 
  Treasure are listed with each monster. If a monster is listed as carrying a weapon, and you kill it, you may take the 
  weapon to use for yourself. Such weapons are worth only the dice ratings shown, not the adds which are personal to 
  the monster. 
   
  2 
  CAVE DRAGON: Nine feet long, 8 feet high, whitish-green scales. CON of 225. Gets 15 dice and 104 
  adds. Has a hoard of treasure, but you'll never find it. Worth 600 a.p. 
   
  3 
  BALROG: Twelve feet tall black shadow wreathed in flames and armed with a whip. CON of 98. Gets 8 
  dice and 77 adds. Worth 500 a.p. 
   
  4 
  TROLL: Eight feet tall, strong and ugly, skin almost as hard as rock. CON of 39. Uses itshands to try to 
  rip you apart. Gets 3 dice and 12 adds. Worth 200 a.p. 
   
  5 
  GIANT COCKROACH: Six feet high with clacking mandibles. CON of 15. Gets 2 dice and 5 adds. Its 
  hits are poison. Unless you are immune to poison, you will lose consciousness one complete combat turn after it first 
  hits you. (This means you have 1 chance to kill it before it kills you automatically.) Worth 100 a.p. 
   
  6 
  EVIL ALZAK DWARF: Four feet tall. CON of 20. Uses a pickaxe. Gets 2 dice and 17 adds, and he will 
  try to kill you even if you’re a dwarf. He is searching for the dragon’s hoard and doesn’t want any competition. 
  Worth 80 a.p. 
   
  7 
  NAKED HUMAN WITH A BAMBOO SPEAR: The poor fellow has been down here so long that he has 
  gone mad and sees you as food. (He's very tired of eating frogs.) CON of 15. Gets 2 dice and 1 add. Worth 40 a.p. 
   
  8 
  GOBLINS (from 1-6: roll 1 die): Each one has a CON of 7 and 4 adds. And uses a spear worth 2 dice. 
  They will not have anything magical. Worth 30 a.p. each. 
   
  9 
  OGRE: Two-headed, ugly, with bad breath and body odor. CON of 20. Gets 2 dice and 3 adds. Worth 100 
  a.p. 
   
  10 
  GHOULS (from 1-6: roll 1 die): Each has a CON of 51. Get 3 dice and 10 adds. Worth 150 a.p. each. No 
  treasure. 
   
  11 
  CHIMERA: Lion’s head, goat's body, serpent’s tail and wolf’s claws. Breathes clouds of poison. If you 
  are not immune to all poison, take 10 points off your CON every combat turn you are fighting (even if you are 
  winning). CON of 27. Gets 4 dice and 16 adds. Worth 400 a.p. 
   
  12 
  SHOGGOTH: You hear piccolo music first. Make a third level saving roll on Luck to see if you are a 
  piccolo player and therefore valuable to the shoggoth. It is a huge, blind, hairy, ponderous dancer. CON of 850. (It is 
  also semi-divine.) Gets 20 dice and 267 adds. If it beats you, and if you made your saving roll, it captures you, 
  permanently enslaves you, and gives you a piccolo - you will play dance music for it for a very long time to come. 
  There is no escape. Worth 5000 a.p. 
   
  WANDERING MONSTERS LIST 
   
  Below is a list of Wandering Monsters. These monsters carry no treasure; their arms and armor are cursed or will 
  disappear at death, so you cannot use them. 
   
  Roll one die to see which monster you encounter. You may not fight the same monster twice until you have gone 
  through this list once. Then reactivate the monsters, try another list, or use some of your favorite monsters. 
   
  
   
   
  1. 
  Four Black Hobbits. Each gets 4 dice in combat and has a CON of 12. If you kill them, take a total of 30 
  adventure points. 
   
  2. 
  One Dwarf Giant. He stands 6 feet tall and is armed with a heavy mace. He’s worth 8 dice in combat, and 
  has a CON of 45. If you kill him, take 50 adventure points. 
   
  3. 
  One Shadow Demon. He gets 5 dice in combat and has a CON of 60. If you fight in the dark, double the 
  demon’s dice. If you want Quartz to light a torch, you must fight the demon by yourself for one combat round in the 
  dark. If you kilt him, take 80 a.p. 
   
  4. 
  One Crystal Demon. He gets 5 dice in combat and has a CON of 60. If you fight by torchlight, double the 
  demon’s dice. If you fight the demon in the dark and you cannot see in the dark, then you must halve your attack. 
  Rock Demons can see in the dark, so Quartz is not affected. If you want Quartz to put out the torch (es), you must 
  fight the demon by yourself for one combat round in the light. If you kill him, take 80 a.p. 
   
  5. 
  Two Vampires. (male and female). Each gets 6 dice plus 20 adds in combat and has a CON of 40. If you 
  kill them, take 40 a.p. 
   
  6. 
  Three Red Robed Priests. Armed with a pulsing rune death staff, each Priest has a CON of  20 and gets 4 
  dice plus 22 adds in combat. You must fight all three Priests at once; you gain 30 adventure points for each Priest 
  you kill. 
   
  WANDERING PEOPLE LIST 
   
  This list is a motley crew that one might find in a city the size of Gull or Khazan. These creatures have their 
  attributes written out, and you may want to make up cards for many of them as well and include them among the 
  other Wandering People. 
   
  You should make up a character card for all the people below. Put the cards in a pile, face down, and when you meet 
  a Wandering Person (which is every time you come to an intersection of roads while in the adventure and any other 
  time you are specifically instructed to do so), pull off the top card. Decide what action should take place, do it, and 
  then return the card to the bottom of the pile. 
   
  A note on Status Codes: these refer to the general status behavior-types of the person or people involved. 
   
  (MF): Monster Fodder. These are characters that go around unarmed and are worth about 25 a.p.'s to anyone who 
  kills them. 
  (ZZ): Bully Type. Will only attack if he has a friend there or is clearly stronger than the person he faces. 
  (P): Perilous. These are scoundrels and thieves, but they are quite dangerous. They can kill and should be regarded 
  with caution. 
  (AA): Always Attack. These are really rotten characters who ought to be killed. Would you want one to marry your 
  sister? 
  (CA): Conditional Attack. Mostly good people, they will attack if provoked. 
  (MT): Monster-Tough. Monsters ought to find these characters rather tough to deal with. If a monster kills one of 
  these, he should get three times the total of the attributes in a.p.’s. 
   
  Nathan the Tax Collector (MF - Level 1)  
  ST 12 - IQ 14 - LK 14 - CN 15 - DX 10 - CH - 8 
  When you meet him, give him 10% of all the treasure you are carrying. 
   
  Mardoc the Medic (MF - Level 1) 
  ST 14 - IQ 15 - LK 10 - CN 12 - DX 12 - CH 15 
  He replenishes 2 CN points for you per meeting. Pay him 10 g.p.’s for his services . 
   
  Dar the Bully (ZZ - Level 1) 
  
   
   
  ST 13 - IQ 7 - LK 13 - CN 10 - DX 13 - CH 9 
  Roll one die. On a roll of 1-4, he has a friend with him who is monster-rated at 40. In this case, he will automatically 
  attack. He fights with a pilum (5 dice). He has 100 g.p.’s on him and is worth 20 a.p.’s. 
   
  Jimbob the Hillbilly Trader (MF - Level 2) 
  ST 10 - IQ 16 - LK 10 - CN 13 - DX 12 - CH 12 
  He will offer to buy all the treasure you want to sell for 10% less than it is worth. 
   
  Pietr the Pickpocket (P - Level 4) 
  ST 14 - IQ 13 - LK 22 - CN 15 - DX 25 - CH 13 
  Lose all your gold to him. Roll one die. If you roll a 1 or 2, you notice and fight him. He fights with a falchion (4 - 
  4) and a madu (1 - 3, takes 1 hit). Take 27 a.p.’s and your gold back if you win. 
   
  Seth the Slaver (AA - Level 2) 
  ST 16 - IQ 12 - LK 14 - CN 12 - DX 16 - CH 9 
  Slavers are loathsome. Kill him when you see him. You get 500 g.p.’s as reward. He fights with a war hammer (5 - 
  1), wears leather armor (6 hits) and carries a knight’s shield (5 hits). 
   
  Mingor Diamondfist (CA - Level 8) 
  St 60 - IQ ?0 - LK 106 - CN 20 - DX 20 - CH 20 
  Mingor made the Trip of the Lion in the Deathtrap Equalizer Dungeon. His hand is a four-die weapon worth 5000 
  g.p.’s if you can remove it. He fights with a pilum (5 dice) in the other hand. He wears mail (11 hits) and has combat 
  adds of 150. He’ll fight if you want. 
   
  Zaarg the Vampire (AA - Level 1) 
  ST 37 - IQ 12 - LK 15 - CN 8 - DX 8 - CH 15 
  Zaarg has 27 combat adds and gets 3 dice in a fight. He is immune to poison. Any player killed by him has become a 
  vampire: multiply ST by 5/2, LK and IQ by 3/2. The character should now be put in the Wandering Person pile, as 
  he is subservient to Zaarg. Zaarg, if killed, is worth 52 a.p.’s. 
   
  Inram the Wizard (MT - Level 9) 
  ST 40 - IQ 42 - LK 30 - CN 8 - DX 16 - CH 12 
  He will cast any spell you want (that he can) for 100 g.p.’s times the ST cost to him. He has a deluxe staff and uses 
  higher-level Take That, You Fiend when he fights. 
   
  Jokar the Small (CA - Level 4) 
  ST 18 - IQ 7 - LK 19 - CN 7 - DX 8 - CH 11 
  Jokar is small, wiry, and speaks with a lisp. Roll two dice; if you roll doubles, he thinks that you are laughing at him. 
  He has combat adds of 12, fights with a bec de corbin (6 dice), wears mail (11 hits), and uses a tower shield (6 hits). 
  He is worth 25 a.p.’s. 
   
  RANDOM WANDERING MONSTERS 
   
  Roll one ordinary six-sided die twice to determine which monster(s) you must fight. If you defeat a monster, you get 
  its MR in adventure points. (However, if you kill 10 rats, you still get only 2 points what’s the difference in killing 1 
  rat or 10, all at the same time and place?) You may not loot a dead monster of its weapons or armor, as these will 
  most likely disappear when the creature(s) disappear, anything left has powerful curses which will kill you if you try 
  to use it. If you have a favorite wandering monster list, or if you want to use the list from another dungeon, go 
  ahead. Note, however, that this system of obtaining wandering monsters provides more variety than simply rolling 
  two dice (two dice will give a number which tends towards the mean - this system is more assuredly random). 
   
  BLOOD BATS: Distant and voracious relatives of vampire bats, these attack in swarms. Roll 2 dice to determine 
  the number of bats attacking. MR 8 (1 + 4) 
   
  CRYSTAL DEMON: Six feet tall, looks like a warrior made all of crystal quartz. Armed with a transparent sword. 
  
   
   
  If you had a torch lit, the light reflects so brightly that it shocks you at first. Roll 1 die and subtract that from your 
  DEX for 1 combat turn. MR 50 (6 + 25) 
   
  ENCHANTED WARRIORS: (2) Undead but still fighting. Wearing glowing leather armor, armed with pitted 
  broadswords. Regenerate 2 points per combat turn until killed outright. MR 20 each (3 + 10) 
   
  GIANT SPIDERS: Each one is the size of a human fist, and is poisonous. If hits are taken on CON, in two turns 
  you will be paralyzed. Roll 2 dice to determine the number which attacks. MR 6 each (1 + 3) 
   
  GHOULS: (3) Grey-green skin and bad breath from unsavory eating habits. Armed with the white thighbones of 
  past feasts. MR 12 each (2 + 6) 
   
  ICE GIANT: Ten feet tall, armed with a great sword which glitters like ice. If you're defeated, you'll provide frozen 
  dinners for all the dungeon monsters MR 48 (5 + 24) 
   
  MANTICORE: This legendary creature has the body of a lion, a scorpion’s tail, and a human face with three jaws. 
  Let Six Pack fend off that tail, because it has venom enough to lay you flat in a single stroke. MR 66 (7 + 33) 
   
  MINOTAUR: Seven feet tall, with shoulders fully three fe et wide! Armed with an ironbound club. MR 60 (7 + 30) 
   
  SHADOW DEMON: 7 foot black shadow with glowing red eyes. Armed with a black mace. Must make L1SR on 
  DEX each combat turn to avoid an unexpected attack. Even if you hit it, and you miss your SR, you must take the 
  difference in hits to CON. MR 68 (7 + 34) 
   
  TOAD WARRIORS: (2) Short, green and ugly, they carry axes coated with a poison. Any hits to your CON must 
  be doubled to account for this. MR 26 each (3 + 13)  
   
  WEREWOLF: Ugly, hairy and stooped to about 5 feet tall. Armed with tooth & claw. Can only be affected by 
  silver or magic weapons. Normal weapons will provide defense for you, but will not damage the were wolf. MR 32 
  4 + 16) 
   
  T&T QUESTIONS: QUERIES & QUANDARIES 
   
  Q: When figuring missile adds, if your Dexterity is lower than 12 would you subtract 2 for each point lower 
  than 12? 
   
  A: No, but you do lose 2 points for each DEX point less than 9 when figuring missile weapon adds. 
   
  Q: Should a warrior get more adventure points for killing an orc with a MR of 21 than one with a MR of 20 
  who uses a 10-die sword? The weapons on the player's side should be taken into account: a delver learns 
  more about fighting a zombie with his bare hands than with an “Undead” killing sword. 
   
  A: Adventure points should be handed out according to how difficult it was to kill the foe. If it was am easy kill, 
  lower the aps. If it was a good fight, hand out more. 
   
  Q: Why can’t you cast a Magic Fangs on a deluxe magic staff? 
   
  A: Have you ever tried to kill an invulnerable snake? Besides, a deluxe staff is not made of wood, nor was it ever a 
  belt. 
   
  Q: What is the procedure for determining if a character finds a secret door when looking for it? I've been 
  using a L1-SR on Luck. 
   
  A: Your system is fine - it’s what we use. The level of the roll may go up if the door is specially hidden (behind 
  plaster, for instance). 
  
   
   
   
  Q: When two wizards are casting spells, how would you determine who got the spell off first? I know 
  sometimes it wouldn’t matter. 
   
  A: The easiest way to tell who gets what spell off first is to divide the Strength cost of the spell by the level of the 
  wizard. The lowest number gets his spell off first. 
   
  The new rules for saving rolls state that: roll level times actual roll equals adventure points awarded. This is the 
  opposite idea of the 4th edition of T&T in which: amount to shoot for minus amount to roll equals adventure points 
  awarded. I agree with the latter - you learn more if you lose than if you win. 
   
  Q: When fighting several Monster-Rated monsters at once, do you combine their MRs and use that total, or 
  do you roll for each one separately? For example, if you are facing 3 dogs with a MR of 10 apiece, would they 
  get 4 dice and 15 adds (MR of 30) or 6 dice and 15 adds (2 plus 5 times 3)? 1 find the second method too 
  difficult in solo dungeons. 
   
  A: The former method is probably the one used by most people - and it is certainly logical. At the very least, 
  monsters that fight as a team will manage to get in each other’s way. If you split the three dogs into one-on-one 
  battles, the two dice plus five holds true, however. 
   
  Q: When summoning a demon, who should be inside the pentagram: the demon or the mage? 
   
  A: That is a good question, one I've been asking for a number of years. From everything I've read, you can have the 
  demon outside or inside and the mage inside or outside, respectively. Or, the demon and the mage can be inside 
  different pentagrams - or both can be outside pentagrams. T&T does not demand a pentagram when summoning 
  demons, though it is possible, according to Monsters! Monsters! to trap a demon within a pentagram. 
   
  If one of my characters has his attributes raised so that he may handle a larger weapon, but has not sufficient money 
  to buy it, can he trade his old weapon in part exchange? 
   
  Sure he can. The money he gets for it will depend upon the weapon's condition; an enchantment might even raise the 
  price over what he originally paid for it. 
   
  Q: If you find a jewel or jeweled weapon, how much does it weigh? 
   
  A: Jewels usually weigh less than an equivalent value of gold. As a general rule of thumb, estimate their weights as 
  100th of their value, e.g. a jewel with a value between 1, and 100 g.p. will weigh 1 (or sometimes 2). A jewel worth 
  101-200 might weigh 2. And so on. jeweled weapons probably won't weigh much more than an unjeweled weapon 
  of the same type. 
   
  Q: What is the “normal speed” for man and other creatures? 
   
  A: “Normal speed” in a dungeon when the party states that is carefully looking for traps and secret doors and such 
  isn't much above 50’ per turn. Normal walking speed with only moderate vigilance is usually considered more like 
  50 yards (150') per turn. Flying creatures can cover perhaps 250’ per turn or a little more. 
   
  Q: Why can’t you improve your Speed with a level bonus? The length of a delver’s legs isn't the only factor in 
  running speed - what about leg strength? 
   
  A: Leg strength is a function of Strength, not Speed. Speed is not easy to improve because each being has a 
  structural maximum speed that he or she can generate, no matter how strong he or she is. Only magic can modify 
  Speed. 
   
  Q: Why don't torches get dice and acids? A flaming torch thrown in someone’s face is bound to do some 
  damage. All things considered, how's 2 dice + 4? Obviously lanterns and Will-o-the-wisp wouldn't apply. Of 
  course, the character would have to make the usual Marksmanship DEX-SR. 
  
   
   
   
  A: A torch probably comes close to being a baton as far as weight/wood value is concerned. That would rate it at 
  two dice for damage. Your point about hitting someone in the face is well taken, but I've had my face singed twice 
  and - other than some lost eyebrows - no real damage was done. The fire damage would depend upon the target. A 
  torch is more likely to hurt a mummy than a soaking wet merman. Each GM should decide the adds for a torch in 
  each situation presented. I also think lanterns should apply; a cracked lantern will spill oil that will burn and do more 
  damage than a torch. 
   
  Q: Isn’t the Cateyes spell used to see in total darkness as well as partial darkness? I've noticed that in one or 
  two solo dungeons you can’t use it to see in “total” darkness. 
   
  A: Some light must be present for a cat to be able to see. Cats can’t see heat patterns, so “total” darkness won’t 
  supply anything for them to see. So it is with characters tinder Cateyes Spell. 
   
  Q: I have an interesting situation for you to resolve. One of my characters entered Beyond the Silvered Pane 
  and got into a room where lie must defeat his double to leave. My character and hence his double - has a Hero 
  sword and we’re not getting anywhere. What do I do? 
   
  You might fight until both of you die from old age, or drop your swords and light bare-handed. If you do the latter, 
  one of you will die eventually. 
   
  Q: How would I figure the modifiers for a half-breed’s prime attributes? 
   
  A: Half-breeds tend to be rare. Chances are that most half-breeds will be the offspring of dungeon-delving or 
  adventuring characters. In addition, only logical creatures Could breed together (fairies and giants don’t cut it.) 
   
  To create a half-breed, roll 3d6. 
   
  -If you don’t roll triples, the child is not a noticeable half-breed. Roll one more die: if it comes up even, the child 
  ,will resemble its mother; odd and it will resemble its father. 
   
  -If you roll triples (other than three 6’s), the child is a half-breed. To determine its attributes, average the attribute 
  modifiers of the parents. 
   
  -if you have rolled an 18 on three dice, you have a super breed. This child has the greatest attribute modifier of its 
  parents per attribute. (A dwarf's CON modifier of x2 will take effect, rather than the elf's CON modifier of x2/3 
  These superbreeds are usually sterile. 
   
  One other note should be made. If dear old Dad, or Mom, has received some tremendous magical gift (like the 
  ability to shapeshift), this is not passed on to the children. Only vampirism or lycanthropy are hereditary traits, 
  although a family curse will also follow bloodlines. Of course, all children are first level characters and must be 
  rolled up as such. 
   
  Q: The means by which the three character types are balanced in the 5th edition of the T&T rules Seems 
  unrealistic to me. That fighters should get twice the protection from armor seems contrived to offset their 
  inability to use magic. That wizards can use no weapon larger than a dagger is the same. 
   
  I'm considering the following alterations. Magic users, for their lack of training and because much of their 
  strength is not physical, must double their ST and DEX requirements for all weapons and armor. Wizards’ 
  combat adds are halved. Rogues are normal. Fighters add half again to their adds. Armor always protects at 
  face value. Your ideas are interesting and if you decide to use them I hope you have fun with them. Many of 
  the options you suggest were tossed around when we did the 5th edition of the rules. 
   
  A: You’ve hit upon one of the keys that we used in determining the classes: training. Magic users have trained with 
  staves and ceremonial daggers, hence the limitations that have been placed upon them. They simply lack training 
  with larger weapons. A mage could pick up a sword and use it, but he’d be as likely to hit with the flat of the blade 
  
   
   
  as the edge. And heaven help him if he comes up against a real warrior. A mage’s combat adds, on the other hand, 
  come from him and should remain intact. Even though chi is inner strength, I'm certain you've seen martial arts 
  displays where chi was shown in physical displays. 
   
  Warriors, on the other hand, get all manner of training with armor. Rolling with blows, the angling of shields to skip 
  a blow off, and trapping a foe’s weapon with a piece of armor or shield is a small indication of the difference their 
  training places between warriors and wizards or rogues. Warriors use their shields to deflect damage, whereas the 
  others use shields to stop damage. This can make the difference between a glancing blow and a direct hit. Because 
  their adds are based on their attributes, there is no logical reason to up them by half again - a course that tends to 
  create in mega characters. 
   
  Q: Can you melt and reshape a deluxe magic staff? 
   
  A: No, but you can purchase them in all manner of shapes (i.e. rings, bracelets, or wands). Only mages can buy them 
  and deluxe staves are not made in the form of armor or weaponry. 
   
  Q: For the life of me, I cannot figure out the Deluxe Staff. It “remembers every spell cast through it”. Does 
  this mean that the wizard casts the spell once, using his own Strength - and thereafter can cast that spell for 
  free? 
   
  A: The Deluxe Staff merely remembers the spell. The Strength to power the spell must be supplied by the magic-
  user every time, for no spells can be cast for free. The joy of obtaining a Deluxe Staff comes when another wizard 
  has used it previously - it may well contain spells you have not yet learned! In that case, you can power the spells 
  even though you do not know them. However, you must have the IQ and DEX minimum requirements to handle the 
  spell. Also, because Deluxe Staves are very hard to destroy, they have been known to hold up ceilings or stop walls 
  from closing in and crushing people... 
   
  Q: In previous editions of the T&T rules, there was a slight provision made for using a weapon without 
  sufficient DEX. It has been dropped, yet it seems necessary to me. (I believe a DEX-SR was required to avoid 
  hitting yourself or a friend.) 
   
  In Arena of Khazan, you have to roll up certain foes (like Orcs) who may not have the DEX needed to wield 
  their weapons. What happens to the shiny scimitar an Orc Uses when you roll a 3 for his DEX? 
   
  A: The DEX saving roll you mentioned was dropped because it was clumsy. Though it seems to answer the 
  problems, it led to questions like, “Can I hurt myself?” If answered “Yes,” people complained that they’d never use 
  a weapon that would do that because it was stupid. Consequently, the rules were revised; now you must have a 
  minimum DEX to use certain weapons. 
   
  I encountered the same problem with Arena of Khazan. I rolled up two horribly awkward Orcs and one pitiful 
  Hobbit. As the adventure doesn't specify what to do, 
   
  I assumed one of two things: either they had access to other we apons and selected those appropriate to them, or they 
  had the DEX needed for their listed weapon (and I simply raised their DEX to a suitable level). You should deal 
  with the situation it in a way that seems logical to you. 
  ________________________________________________________ 
   
  Mutated & Published by: James L. Shipman (Outlaw Press) 
  Designed by: All the T&T Fan’s 
  Posted To The Web by: David Thorn 
  Original Author: Ken St. Andre. 
  Owner Of All Copyrights/Trademarks: Flying Buffalo Inc. (FBI) 
   
  < No Copyrights, No Trademarks, 6th Edition, April 14th, 2001> 
   
  
   
   
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SOURCE: textdata/thevault/Tunnels & Trolls (osr)/6th edition/TnT 6e - Corerules Edition.pdf