 It's not often you get to sleep in a museum. But last summer, Steve and I spent a night at the Rudyard Kipling House near Brattleboro, Vermont. It's a classic turn-of-the-century country estate built in 1892 with a slate roof and cedar shingles painted Kipling green. Kipling wanted it to look like one of the luxurious riverboats he'd sailed in India, so the house is long and narrow with lots of mahogany fittings. He called it Nalaka.