 Pete Wells wrote that and hundreds of other restaurant reviews in his 12 years as New York Times food critic, and now he's stepping down. So he's here to talk with us about his tenure and the role of a critic. Welcome, and thanks for the years of great reading. Oh, thank you. I imagine you're probably sick of talking about that review you wrote a dozen years ago, panning Guy Fieri's American Kitchen and Bar in Times Square. But I think it does point to something about your job that's unusual, which is the influence that it can have, arguably way more than