 Off to one side of town, there's a stage set up with bands playing son jarocho, the folk music of Veracruz. People clap politely after each group, but the stage show isn't why people are here, not really. They're here for the fandango. Four guys haul out a small wooden platform and plop it down in the middle of the street. A couple of people approach the platform and begin to strum jarranas, a kind of stringed instrument similar to a guitar.