Home gardening continues to grow in popularity. One of every three families does some type of home gardening, according to conservative estimates, with most gardens located in urban areas. Texas gardeners can produce tasty, nutritious vegetables year-round. To be a successful gardener you will need to follow a few basic rules and make practical decisions.
Close SearchSite Search

Site Search

Search

### Trending Searches:

- Drought
- [Childcare Training](/?s=Childcare Training)
- [Beef Cattle](/?s=Beef Cattle)

Menu

Site Search

Search

# Texas Home Vegetable Gardening Guide

By: Joseph Masabni

Tomatoes, peppers, and squash in a bin at a farmers market

Home gardening continues to grow in popularity. One of every three families does some type of home gardening, according to conservative estimates, with most gardens located in urban areas. Texas gardeners can produce tasty, nutritious vegetables year-round. To be a successful gardener you will need to follow a few basic rules and make practical decisions.

## Garden site

Although many urban gardeners have little choice, selecting a garden site is extremely important. The ideal garden area gets full or nearly full sunlight and has deep, well-drained, fertile soil. The garden should be near a water outlet but not close to competing shrubs or trees. However, if you modify certain cultural practices and select the right crops, almost any site can become a highly productive garden.

## Crop selection

One of the first things you must do is decide what vegetables to grow. Table 1 lists crops suitable for small and large gardens. You will want to grow vegetables that return a good portion of nutritious food for the time and space they require. Vine crops such as watermelons, cantaloupes, winter squash and cucumbers need large amounts of space, but if you plant them near a fence or trellis you may need less space for vine crops. Plant the vegetables your family will enjoy most. Resist the urge to plant more of any particular vegetable than you need unless you plan to preserve the surplus.

## Table 1. Home garden vegetables

### Small gardens

### Large gardens

- Beets

- Broccoli

- Bush squash

- Cabbage

- Carrot

- Eggplant

- English pea

- Garlic

- Green bean

- Lettuce

- Onion

- Parsley

- Pepper

- Radish

- Spinach

- Tomato

- Cantaloupe

- Cauliflower

- Colard

- Cucumber

- Mustard

- Okra

- Potato

- Pumpkin

- Southern pea

- Sweet corn

- Sweet potato

- Watermelon

It is important to select the right variety of each vegetable. If you plant the wrong variety for your area you may not get a satisfactory yield no matter how much care you give the plants. Your county Extension agent can provide a list of varieties that are well adapted to your area of Texas. If you try new varieties and hybrids, limit the size of the plantings.

If your garden does not receive full or nearly full sunlight, try growing leafy crops such as leaf lettuce, mustard and parsley. Table 2 lists vegetables that do well in full sunlight and those that tolerate partial shade.

## Table 2. Light requirements of common vegetables

### Require bright sunlight

### Tolerate partial shade

- Bean

- Broccoli

- Cantaloupe

- Cauliflower

- Cucumber

- Eggplant

- Okra

- Onion

- Pea

- Pepper

- Potato

- Pumpkin

- Radish

- Squash

- Tomato

- Watermelon

- Beets

- Brussels Sprouts

- Cabbage

- Carrot

- Collard

- Kale

- Lettuce

- Mustard

- Parsley

- Radish

- Spinach

- Turnip

## Garden plan

A gardener needs a plan just as an architect does. Careful planning lessens gardening work and increases the return on your labor.

Table 3 shows the relative maturity rates of various vegetable crops. Long-term crops require a long growing period. Plant them where they won’t interfere with the care and harvesting of short-term crops. Plant tall-growing crops (okra, staked tomatoes, pole beans, sweet corn) on the north side of the garden where they will not shade or interfere with the growth of low-growing crops such as radishes, leaf lettuce, onions and bush beans. Group crops according to their rate of maturity so a new crop can be planted to take the place of another as soon as it is removed. When you plant a new crop, it should be totally unrelated to the crop it is replacing. This is called crop rotation. Crop rotation helps prevent the buildup of diseases and insects. For example, follow early beans with beets, squash or bell peppers.

If your garden does not receive full or nearly full sunlight, try growing leafy crops such as leaf lettuce, mustard and parsley. Table 2 lists vegetables that do well in full sunlight and those that tolerate partial shade.

## Table 3. Maturity rates of common vegetables

### Quick (30-60 days)

- Beet
- Bush bean
- Leaf lettuce
- Mustard
- Radish
- Spinach
- Summer squash
- Turnip
- Turnip green

### Moderate (60-80 days)

- Broccoli
- Chinese cabbage
- Carrot
- Cucumber
- Green onion
- Kohlrabi
- Lima bean
- Okra
- Parsley
- Pepper
- Tomato

### Slow (80 or more days)

- Brussels Sprouts
- Bulb onion
- Cabbage
- Cantaloupe
- Cauliflower
- Eggplant
- Garlic
- Irish potato
- Pumpkin
- Sweet potato
- Watermelon

## Soil preparation

Many garden sites do not have the deep, well drained, fertile soil that is ideal for growing vegetables. If yours is one of them, you will need to alter the soil to provide good drainage and aeration. If the soil is heavy clay, adding organic matter, sand or gypsum will improve it. Organic matter also improves sandy soils.

To improve clay soils, apply 1 to 2 inches of good sand and 2 to 3 inches of organic matter to the soil surface in late winter or early spring; then turn it under to mix it thoroughly with the soil. It may take several years to improve the soil’s physical condition and you’ll want to add more organic matter (in the form of composted materials, peanut hulls, rice hulls, grass clippings, etc.) periodically. Turn the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches — the deeper the better — each time you add organic matter. Add gypsum at the rate of 6 to 8 pounds per 100 square feet where the soil is heavy clay.

When you add organic matter or sand to the garden site, be careful not to introduce soil pests such as nematodes. Contact your county Extension agent to find out how you can have your soil tested for nematodes by the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Soil Testing Laboratory.

Never work wet garden soil. To determine if the soil is dry enough for working, squeeze together a small handful of soil. If it sticks together in a ball and does not readily crumble under slight pressure by your thumb and finger, it is too wet for working.

Seeds germinate better in well-prepared soil than in coarse, lumpy soil. Thorough soil preparation makes planting and caring for your crops much easier. It is possible, however, to overdo the preparation of some soils. An ideal soil for planting is granular, not powdery fine.

Map of Texas showing the average date of last springl frost

Map of Texas showing the average date of first fall frost

## Fertilization

Proper fertilization is another important key to successful vegetable gardening. The amount of fertilizer needed depends upon the soil type and the crops you are growing. Texas soils vary from deep sands to fertile, well-drained soils to heavy, dark clays underlaid by layers of caliche rock or hardpan. Crops grown on sandy soils usually respond to liberal amounts of potassium, whereas crops grown on clay soils do not.

Heavy clay soils can be fertilized much more heavily at planting than can sandy soils. Heavy clay soils and those with lots of organic matter can safely absorb and store fertilizer at three to four times the rate of sandy soils. Thin, sandy soils, which need fertilizer the most, unfortunately cannot be fed as heavily without burning plants. The solution is to feed poor, thin soils more often in lighter doses. For accurate recommendations regarding fertilizer rates, contact your county Extension agent and request a soil test kit.

In general, if your garden is located on deep, sandy soil, apply a complete preplant fertilizer such as 5-10-10 or 6-12-12 at the rate of 1 to 2 pounds per 100 square feet. If your soil has a high percentage of clay, a fertilizer such as 10-20-10 or 12-24-12 applied at 1 to 2 pounds per 100 square feet should be suitable.

Make the preplant fertilizer application a few days before planting. Spade the garden plot, spread the fertilizer by hand or with a fertilizer distributor, and then work the soil well to properly mix the fertilizer with the soil. After the fertilizer is well mixed with the soil, bed the garden in preparation for planting.

On alkaline soils, apply 1-20-0 (superphosphate) directly beneath the intended seed row or plant row before planting. Apply the superphosphate at a rate of 1 to 1½ pounds per 100 linear feet of row. Make sure the nitrogen material will be 2 to 4 inches below the seed or transplant roots so it won’t harm them. Later in the season you can apply additional nitrogen as a furrow or sidedress application. For most soils, 2 to 3 pounds of 21-0-0 (ammonium sulfate) per 100 linear feet of row, applied in the furrow and watered in, is adequate. For crops such as tomatoes, peppers and squash, make this application at first fruit set. Sidedress leafy crops such as cabbage and lettuce when they develop several sets of character leaves.

## Planting

Plant your garden as early as possible in the spring and fall so the vegetables will grow and mature during ideal conditions. Using transplants rather than seeds, when possible, allows crops to mature earlier and extends the productive period of many vegetable crops. Be careful not to plant transplants too deep or too shallow, especially if plants are in containers such as peat pots. Planting too deep often causes developed roots to abort. Planting too shallow may cause roots to dry out.

Some crops can be removed from containers for planting, while others are best transplanted in containers, as indicated in Table 4. When transplanting plants such as tomatoes or peppers, use a starter solution. Purchase starter solution at a nursery or make your own by mixing 2 to 3 cups of fertilizer (such as 10-20-10) in 5 gallons of water. Use the lower rate on light, sandy soils. Pour 1 to 2 pints of starter solution (depending on plant size) into each transplant hole before planting. This keeps the plants from drying out and gives the young, growing plants the nutrients they need.

## Table 4. Ease of transplanting

### Easily transplanted

- Beet
- Broccoli
- Cabbage
- Auliflower
- Chard
- Lettuce
- Onion
- Tomato

### Require care

- Carrot
- Celery
- Eggplant
- Okra
- Pepper
- Spinach

### Very difficult without using containers

- Bean
- Cantaloupe
- Cucumber
- Pea
- Squash
- Sweet corn
- Turnip
- Watermelon

When planting seeds, a general rule of thumb is to cover the seed two to three times as deep as its width. This is especially true for big seeds such as green bean, sweet corn, cucumber, cantaloupe and watermelon. Smaller seeds such as carrot, lettuce or onion can be planted about ¼ to ½ inch deep. Plant seeds fairly thickly; once they have sprouted you can thin plants to an optimum stand. After planting seeds, do not let the soil become so dry that it develops a crust, but do not overwater either. Table 5 indicates the average number of days from planting to emergence.

## Table 5. Days from planting to emergence under good growing conditions

CropDays to emergenceBean5-10Beet7-10Broccoli5-10Cabbage5-10Carrot12-18Cauliflower5-10Corn5-8

CropDays to emergenceCucumber6-10Eggplant6-10Lettuce6-8Okra7-10Onion7-10Pea6-10Parsley15-21

CropDays to emergencePepper9-14Radish3-6Spinach7-12Squash4-6Tomato6-12Turnip4-8Watermelon6-8

## Watering

Apply enough water to wet the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches. For best production, most gardens require about 1 inch of rain or irrigation per week during the growing season. Light, sandy soils usually need to be watered more often than heavier, dark soils. If you use sprinklers, water in the morning so plant foliage has time to dry before night. This helps prevent foliage diseases, since humidity and cool temperatures encourage disease development on most vegetable crops.

A drip irrigation system is best because it keeps water off plant foliage and uses water most efficiently. Drip irrigation is ideal for use with mulches.

## Weed control

A long-handled hoe is the best tool for controlling undesirable plants in vegetable gardens. Chemical weed control usually is undesirable and unsatisfactory because of the selective nature of weed control chemicals. The wide variety of vegetable crops normally planted in a small area prohibits the use of such chemicals. Cultivate and hoe shallowly to avoid injuring vegetable roots near the soil surface. Control weeds when they are small seedlings to prevent them from seeding and re-inoculating the garden area. Mulching is also an effective means of weed control.

## Mulching

Mulching increases yields, conserves moisture, prevents weed growth, regulates soil temperature, and lessens crop loss caused by ground rot. Organic mulches include straw, leaves, grass, bark, compost, sawdust and peat moss. Organic mulches incorporated into the soil will improve the soil tilth, aeration and drainage. The amount of organic mulch to use depends upon the type, but 1 to 2 inches applied to the garden surface around growing plants is adequate.

When you have finished harvesting and it is time to turn under organic mulch for subsequent crops, add more fertilizer at the rate of about 1 pound per 100 square feet to help soil organisms break down the additional organic matter.

## Pest control

Diseases and insects can cause problems for Texas gardeners. Long growing seasons with relatively mild winters encourage large insect populations. Avoid spraying when possible, but use recommended and approved chemicals if the situation warrants. Be careful when deciding which chemicals to apply. Spray only those crops listed on the chemical’s container. When used according to the manufacturer’s directions and label, chemicals pose no threat to the home gardener.

Disease control is really a preventive rather than an eradication procedure. Cool, damp conditions are conducive to foliage diseases. Carefully watch your garden for symptoms of diseases. If necessary, spray with approved fungicides. Publications on disease and insect identification and control are available from your county Extension office and from AgriLife Learn.

## Harvesting

Harvest time brings the reward of planting and caring for your vegetable crops. For best flavor, harvest vegetables when they are mature. A vegetable’s full flavor develops only at peak maturity, resulting in the excellent taste of vine-ripened tomatoes, tender green beans and crisp, flavorful lettuce. For maximum flavor and nutritional content, harvest the crop the day it is to be canned, frozen or eaten.

## Home gardening do’s and don’ts

Do:

- Use recommended varieties for your area of the state.
- Sample soil and have it tested every 2 to 3 years.
- Apply preplant fertilizer to the garden in the recommended amount.
- Examine your garden often to keep ahead of potential problems.
- Keep the garden free of insects, diseases and weeds.
- Use mulches to conserve moisture, control weeds and reduce ground rots.
- Water as needed, wetting soil to a depth of 6 inches.
- Thin when plants are small.
- Avoid excessive walking and working in the garden when the foliage and soil are wet.
- Wash your garden tools and sprayer well after each use.
- Keep records on garden activities.

Don’t:

- Depend on varieties not recommended for your area, but do try limited amounts of new releases.
- Plant so closely that you cannot walk or work in the garden.
- Cultivate so deeply that plant roots are injured.
- Shade small plants with taller growing crops.
- Water excessively or in late afternoon.
- Place fertilizer directly in contact with plant roots or seeds.
- Allow weeds to grow large before cultivating.
- Apply chemicals or pesticides in a haphazard manner or without reading the label directions.
- Use chemicals not specifically recommended for garden crops.
- Store leftover diluted spray

## Table 6. Useful conversions

- 3 teaspoons = 1 tablespoon
- 2 tablespoons = 1 fluid ounce
- 16 tablespoons = 1 cup
- 2 cups = 1 pint or 16 fluid ounces
- 2 pints = 1 quart
- 4 quarts = 1 gallon
- 1 ounce = approximately 2 tablespoons (dry weight)

## Table 7. Common garden problems

Plants stunted in growth; sickly, yellow colorNot enough soil nutrients or soil ph is abnormalUse fertilizer and correct pH according to a soil test. Use 2 to 3 pounds of complete fertilizer per 100 square feet in the absence of soil test.Plants growing in compacted, poorly drained soilModify soil with organic matter or coarse sandInsect or disease damageUse a regular spray or dust program.Iron deficiencyApply iron to soil or foliage.Plants stunted in growth; sickly, purplish colorLow temperaturePlant at the proper time. Don’t use light-colored mulch too early in the season.Low available phosphateApply sufficient phosphate at planting.Holes in leaves; leaves yellowish and dropping, or distorted in shapeInsect damageUse recommended insecticides at regular intervals.Plant leaves with spots; dead, dried areas; or powdery or rusty areasPlant diseaseUse resistant varieties; remove diseased plants and use a regular spray program.Plants wilt even though they have sufficient waterSoluble salts too high or root system damageHave soil tested. Use soil insecticides, fungicides and resistant varieties.Poor drainage and aerationAdd organic matter or sand to the soil.Insect or nematode damageUse recommended varieties and apply soil insecticides or nematicides.Plants tall, spindly and unproductiveExcessive shadeRelocate to a sunny area. Keep down weeds.Excessive nitrogenReduce applications of nitrogenBlossom drop (tomato)Hot, dry periodsUse mulch and water. Plant heat-tolerant varieties.Minor element deficienciesUse fertilizer containing zinc, iron and manganese.Failure to set fruit (vine crop)Poor pollinationAvoid spraying when bees are present.Leathery, dry, brown blemish on the blossom end of tomato, pepper and watermelonBlossom end rotKeep the soil moisture uniform. Avoid overwatering and excessive nitrogen.

## Table 8. Vegetable planting

VegetableSeed or plants per 100 feetDepth of planting (in)Distance between rows (in)Distance between plants (in)Height of crop (ft)Spring planting relative to frost-free dateFall planting relative to first freeze dateAsparagus1 oz seed or 66 plants1-1½ or 6-836-481854 to 6 weeks beforenot recommendedBeans, snap bush1/2 lb seed1-1½30-363-41½1 to 4 weeks after8 to 10 weeks beforeBeans, snap pole1/2 lb seed1-1½36-484-661 to 4 weeks after14 to 16 weeks beforeBeans, Lima bush1/2 lb seed1-1½30-363-41½1 to 4 weeks after8 to 10 weeks beforeBeans, Lima pole1/4 lb seed1-1½36-4812-1861 to 4 weeks after14 to 16 weeks beforeBeets1 oz seed114-2421½4 to 6 weeks before8 to 10 weeks beforeBroccoli1/4 oz seed1/224-3614-2434 to 6 weeks before10 to 16 weeks beforeBrussels Sprouts1/4 oz seed1/224-3614-2424 to 6 weeks before10 to 14 weeks beforeCabbage1/4 oz seed1/224-3614-241½4 to 6 weeks before10 to 16 weeks beforeCabbage, Chinese1/4 oz seed1/218-307-121½4 to 6 weeks before12 to 14 weeks beforeCarrot1/2 oz seed1/214-24214 to 6 weeks before12 to 14 weeks beforeCauliflower1/4 oz seed1/224-3614-243not recommended10 to 16 weeks beforeChard, Swiss2 oz seed118-3061½2 to 6 weeks before12 to 14 weeks beforeCollard (Kale)1/4 oz seed1/218-366-1222 to 6 weeks before8 to 12 weeks beforeCorn, sweet3-4 oz seed1/224-369-1261 to 6 weeks after12 to 14 weeks beforeCucumber1/2 oz seed1/248-728-1211 to 6 weeks after10 to 12 weeks beforeEggplant1/8 oz seed1/230-2618-2432 to 6 weeks after12 to 16 weeks beforeGarlic1 lb seed1/214-242-41not recommended4 to 6 weeks beforeKohlrabi1/4 oz seed1/214-244-61½2 to 6 weeks before12 to 16 weeks beforeLettuce1/4 oz seed1/218-242-316 weeks before or 2 weeks after10 to 14 weeks beforeMuskmelon (Cantaloupe)1/2 oz seed160-9624-3611 to 6 weeks after14 to 16 weeks beforeMustard1/4 oz seed1/214-246-121½1 to 6 weeks after10 to 16 weeks beforeOkra2 oz seed136-4212-2462 to 6 weeks after12 to 16 weeks beforeOnion (plants)No seed / 400-600 plants1/214-242-31½4 to 10 weeks beforenot recommendedOnion (seed)1 oz seed1/214-242-31½6 to 8 weeks before8 to 10 weeks beforeParsley1/4 oz seed1/814-242-41/21 to 6 weeks before6 to 16 weeks beforePeas, English1 lb seed2-318-36122 to 8 weeks before2 to 12 weeks beforePeas, Southern1/2 lb seed2-324-364-62½2 to 10 weeks after10 to 12 weeks beforePepper1/8 oz seed1/230-3618-2431 to 8 weeks after12 to 16 weeks beforePotato, Irish6-10 lb seed430-3610-1524 to 6 weeks before14 to 16 weeks beforePotato, SweetNo seed / 75-100 plants3-536-4812-1612 to 8 weeks afternot recommendedPumpkin1/2 oz seed1/260-9636-4811 to 4 weeks after12 to 14 weeks beforeRadish1 oz seed1/214-2411/26 weeks before / 4 weeks after1 to 8 weeks beforeSpinach1 oz seed1/214-243-411 to 8 weeks before2 to 16 weeks beforeSquash, summer1 oz seed1/236-6018-3631 to 4 weeks after12 to 15 weeks beforeSquash, winter1/2 oz seed1/260-9624-4811 to 4 weeks after12 to 14 weeks beforeTomato1/8 oz seed or 50 plants1/2 or 4-636-4836-4831 to 8 weeks after12 to 14 weeks beforeTurnip, greens1/2 oz seed1/214-242-31½2 to 6 weeks before2 to 12 weeks beforeTurnip, roots1/2 oz seed1/214-242-31½2 to 6 weeks before2 to 12 weeks beforeWatermelon1 oz seed1/272-9636-7211 to 6 weeks after14 to 16 weeks before

## Table 9. Vegetable harvest and yield

VegetableDays to harvestLength of harvestYield/100 ftPlanting/person: freshPlanting/person: frozenAsparagus7306030 lb10-15 plants10-15 plantsBeans, snap-bush45-6014120 lb15-16 ft15-20 ftBeans, snap-pole60-7030150 lb5-6 ft8-10 ftBeans, Lima-bush65-801425 lb shelled10-15 ft15-20 ftBeans, Lima-pole75-854050 lb shelled5-6 ft8-10 ftBeet50-6030150 lb5-10 ft10-20 ftBroccoli60-8040100 lb3-5 plants5-6 plantsBrussels Sprouts90-1002175 lb2-5 plants5-8 plantsCabbage60-9040150 lh3-4 plants5-10 plantsCabbage, Chinese65-702180 heads3-10 ftN/ACarrot70-8021100 lb5-10 ft10-15 ftCauliflower70-9014100 lb3-5 plants8-12 plantsChard, Swiss45-554075 lb3-5 plants8-12 plantsCollard (Kale50-8060100 lb5-10 ft5-10 ftCorn, sweet70-901010 dozen10-15 ft30-50 ftCucumber50-7030120 lb1-2 hills3-5hillsEggplant80-9090100 lb2-3 plants2-3 plantsGarlic140-150N/A40 lbN/A1-5 ftKohlrabi55-751475 lb3-5 ft5-10 ftLettuce40-802150 lb5-15 ftN/AMuskmelon/Cantaloupe85-10030100 fruits3-5 hillsN/AMustard30-4030100 lb5-10 ft10-15 ftOkra55-6590100 lh4-6 ft6-10 ftOnion (bulb80-120N/A100 lh3-5 ft30-50 ftOnion (seed90-120N/A100 lb3-5 ft30-50 ftParsley70-909030 lb1-3 ft1-3 ftPea, English55-90720 lb15-20 ft40-60 ftPea, Souther60-703040 lb10-15 ft20-50 ftPepper60-909060 lb3-5 plants3-5 plantsPotato, Irish75-100N/A100 lb50-100 ftN/APotato, sweet100-130N/A100 lb5-10 plants10-20 plantsPumpkin75-100N/A100 lb1-2 hills1-2 hillsRadish25-40N/A100 bunches3-5 ftN/ASpinach40-60403 bushels5-10 ft10-15 ftSquash, summer50-6040150 lb2-3 hills2-3 hillsSquash, winter85-100N/A100 lb1-3 hills1-3 hillsTomato70-9040100 1b3-5 plants5-10 plantsTurnip, greens304050-100 lb5-10 ftN/ATurnip, roots30-603050-100 lb5-10 ft5-10 ftWatermelon80-1003040 fruits2-4 hillsN/A



## Looking for solutions in your county? Contact your local extension experts

## A Member of Texas A&M AgriLife

A Member of Texas A&M AgriLife

Texas A&M AgriLife

## Back to Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service Home

### Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service

600 John Kimbrough Boulevard, Suite 509

7101 TAMU

College Station, TX 77843-7101

### About AgriLife Extension

### Find us on Social Media

### About Texas A&M University

© 2024 Texas A&M AgriLife. All rights reserved.