Most sunscreen preparations are designed to absorb ultraviolet light in the ultraviolet B (UVB) wavelength range from 280 to 320 nm, which is the range responsible for most of the erythema and sunburn associated with sun exposure and tanning. Chronic exposure to light in this range induces aging of the skin and photocarcinogenesis. Para-aminobenzoic acid and its esters are the most effective available absorbers in the B region. Ultraviolet in the longer UVA range, 320–400 nm, is also associated with skin aging and cancer.
The benzophenones include oxybenzone, dioxybenzone, and sulisobenzone. These compounds provide a broader spectrum of absorption from 250 to 360 nm, but their effectiveness in the UVB erythema range is less than that of PABA. The dibenzoylmethanes include Parsol and Eusolex. These compounds absorb wavelengths throughout the longer UVA range, with maximum absorption at 360 nm. Patients particularly sensitive to UVA wavelengths include individuals with polymorphous light eruption, cutaneous lupus erythematosus, and drug-induced photosensitivity. In these patients, dibenzoylmethane-containing sunscreen may provide improved photoprotection. Ecamsule (Mexoryl) appears to provide greater UVA protection than the dibenzoylmethanes and is less prone to photodegradation.
The sun protection factor (SPF) of a given sunscreen, a measure of its effectiveness in absorbing erythrogenic ultraviolet light, is determined by measuring the minimal erythema dose with and without the sunscreen in a group of normal people. The ratio of the minimal erythema dose with sunscreen to the minimal erythema dose without sunscreen is the SPF.
FDA regulations limit the claimed maximum SPF value on sunscreen labels to 50+ because data are insufficient to show that products with SPF values higher than 50 provide greater protection for users. These regulations require that sunscreens labeled “broad spectrum” pass a standard test comparing the amount of UVA radiation protection in relation to the amount of UVB protection. Broad spectrum sunscreens with SPF values of 15 or higher help protect against not only sunburn, but also skin cancer and early skin aging when used as directed. Sunscreens with an SPF value between 2 and 14 can only claim that they help prevent sunburn.
In addition, products claiming to be water resistant must indicate whether they remain effective for 40 minutes or 80 minutes while swimming or sweating, based on standard testing. These regulations are poorly enforced.
Retinoic acid, also known as tretinoin or all-trans-retinoic acid, is the acid form of vitamin A. It is an effective topical treatment for acne vulgaris. Several analogs of vitamin A, eg, 13-cis-retinoic acid (isotretinoin), have been shown to be effective in various dermatologic diseases when given orally. Vitamin A alcohol is the physiologic form of vitamin A. The topical therapeutic agent, retinoic acid, is formed by the oxidation of the alcohol group, with all four double bonds in the side chain in the trans configuration as shown.
Retinoic acid is insoluble in water but soluble in many organic solvents. Topically applied retinoic acid remains chiefly in the epidermis, with less than 10% absorption into the circulation. The small quantities of retinoic acid absorbed following topical application are metabolized by the liver and excreted in bile and urine.
Retinoic acid has several effects on epithelial tissues. It stabilizes lysosomes, increases ribonucleic acid polymerase activity, increases prostaglandin E2, cAMP, and cGMP levels, and increases the incorporation of thymidine into DNA. Its action in acne has been attributed to decreased cohesion between epidermal cells and increased epidermal cell turnover. This is thought to result in the expulsion of open comedones and the transformation of closed comedones into open ones.