Eating Local, Eating Green: Finding, preparing chestnuts worth effort for unique treat

Not every local food is grown commercially. Many interesting and delicious foods take a bit of searching to find. These treasure hunts yield some of our most unique seasonal items.

Foraging for these gems is equal parts frustration, sweat and revelation. Upon discovering local chestnuts last year, my harvesting adventure gave me a greater appreciation for the sweet little nut that we sing about each Christmas.

In our climate, fresh, local chestnuts are available now. Look for the sharp, spiky round burrs that look semi-lethal (and they are) falling from broad-leafed trees. The fallen burrs crack open to reveal one to three brown nuts.

Don't confuse them with buckeyes (which are smooth and round and toxic).

Chestnuts are truly a nut, but have more water and starch and less oil than other tree nuts. The texture is crisp, and the nut should always be cooked before eating. They are quite perishable, so if you have dreams of local chestnuts on your Christmas table, you're going to need to freeze them.

Chestnuts used to be a staple for peasant populations, but now are more of a luxury. Since a blight in the early 20th century wiped out most of the American chestnut variety, you're likely to find only the Chinese variety in the Mid-South. Since most of us weren't around to sample the American variety, I doubt we'll know the difference.

The work doesn't end with the harvest. Removing the shells and skins takes time and strong fingers, but dipping the warm, peeled nut in melted butter and sprinkling with salt makes a fine snack to help keep your strength up during the process.

After diligently harvesting the nuts daily over several weeks last year, I was determined that they wouldn't be buried in a dish with lots of overpowering flavors. A silky smooth soup with a touch of cream lets the sweetness come through and was a rich reward for all of the hard work.

Why reinvent the wheel when we can learn from others -- the Romans used chestnuts to make flour to extend their wheat flour. It was common practice to make polenta from ground chestnuts before maize was discovered and cultivated. The French revere the Marron Glace confection, thinking nothing of the multi-day process required to create them. Modern chefs make chestnut chips, braise in wine, stuff inside ravioli, or blend to a smooth puree to serve with rich meats.

Brave the wild of your neighbor's yard, or skip the hard work and buy local chestnuts at the Memphis Botanic Garden Farmers Market, where the nuts are harvested by volunteers from several trees at the garden. It's foraging without the back-breaking work.


Chestnuts 101

Resources: Fresh, local chestnuts will be available for the next few weeks at the Memphis Botanic Garden Farmers Market, from 2 to 6 p.m. Wednesdays at 750 Cherry Road. Proceeds benefit the garden's educational programs.

Storing: Store peeled or unpeeled in refrigerator or freezer until ready to use. Defrost before peeling or cooking.

To shell/peel chestnuts (roasting): Preheat oven to 300 to 350 degrees. Using a sharp paring knife, make an X on the flat side of each chestnut or use strong shears to cut a deep X in the pointy end. Roast in small batches in an open pan for 10-15 minutes, or until the shells begin to open away from the meat. Remove both outer shell and inner skin while chestnuts are warm. If the skins are sticking, return to the oven to warm again.

To shell/peel chestnuts (boiling): If you will be using chestnuts chopped or in a puree, you can cut the nut in half, through the shell. Place the halved nuts in boiling water and cook for 8-10 minutes. Remove the nuts and immediately place in ice water. Use a paring knife to peel the shell and remove the skin.

Carrot Chestnut Soup

1 lb. fresh chestnuts, peeled and chopped

2-3 tbsp. olive oil

2 shallots, chopped

1 lb. carrots, peeled and chopped

2 tsp. fresh ginger, peeled and grated

1 quart vegetable or chicken broth

1 cup heavy cream

Salt and pepper to taste

Fresh thyme leaves for garnish

In a large saucepan, over medium heat, add olive oil and shallots and sauté until soft. Add carrots, chestnuts and ginger and then add the broth. Reduce heat to a simmer. Cover and cook until carrots and chestnuts are very soft.

Puree solids in a blender in batches (be careful, as mixture will be hot) adding cooking liquid as necessary to make mixture smooth.

Reserve remaining cooking liquid and return carrot mixture to saucepan. Add cream and season with salt and pepper. Add additional cooking liquid until desired consistency is achieved. Stir in thyme leaves. Serve hot. Serves 4-6.

Source: Recipe courtesy of Melissa Petersen

Apple Chestnut Stuffing

1 lb. fresh chestnuts, peeled and chopped

4 cups of cornbread, cut into 1-inch cubes and toasted

2 sage leaves, finely minced

1 large egg

6 slices of bacon, chopped

1 onion, chopped

2 ribs celery, sliced

2-3 apples, peeled, cored and chopped

1 cup vegetable or chicken broth

Salt and pepper to taste

Butter for baking dish

In a large bowl, lightly beat egg and add chestnuts, cornbread cubes, and sage. Set aside.

In a large skillet, over medium heat, cook bacon. When bacon is nearly cooked, add onion, celery and apples and cook until onions are soft. Add to chestnut mixture and mix to combine.

Add up to 1 cup of broth. Season with salt and pepper.

Butter a 9- by 13-inch casserole dish. Lightly pack stuffing into dish and bake, covered, at 325 degrees for 20 minutes. Remove cover and bake for an additional 10-15 minutes until stuffing begins to brown.

Source: Recipe courtesy of Melissa Petersen