Beauty Chat: Marie Robinson on Perfecting Platinum

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Photo: Courtesy of Jason Linderg

Now that Memorial Day weekend is behind us, you may have lazy summer days lounging poolside on your mind. And what better complements a healthy bronze tan (that comes from a bottled formula not UV rays, of course) than some lighter locks? To help you brighten your hair this season, we talked to celebrity colorist and platinum professional Marie Robinson, who is the driving force behind the blonde transformations seen on Rachel McAdams, Natalie Portman, and Anne Hathaway. Here, Robinson shares tips on communicating with your colorist before getting in the chair, how to keep your blonde brilliant instead of brassy, and ways to maintain your hair’s health after you go golden.

What are some important things to note when going platinum blonde?
Remember that the lighter you go, the more compromised your hair's condition. This also causes your hair to be more susceptible to absorbing chlorine and hard water, which can create discoloration.
Which shades of blonde are trending for spring and summer this year?
Sandy blondes and warm blondes that are blended with highlights and all over color are both popular [trends]. Hair that has no severe contrast between the roots and the ends is also a trend. It's a little more old Hollywood meets the '70s.
How can we go platinum in a modern way?
Platinum can always look modern with the right haircut that doesn't make it look too gray. It should be creamy, pale, and sandy so that it retains shine and reflects light. When hair is too ashy or gray, it absorbs light.
These shades look beautiful when they look natural. Golden blondes should be a true sunny golden color and never orange or brassy. Dirty blonde doesn't have to look "dirty." Face-framing layers and the mid-length ones as well should be lighter and sandier in color. Honey blonde should look like honey and not look yellow.
If a client wants a shade like Miley Cyrus's blonde hue, what should she communicate to her colorist?
Sulfate-free formulas are better for the environment, but I believe that most products that are not yellowing and don't contain ingredients such as chamomile, olive oil, or lemon will keep pale hair bright. If you have golden tones in hair, then these ingredients are fine.
How can we avoid brassiness?
Stay out of the pool. Avoid hard water and don't use products that can build up on hair, such as those that are high in silicone. Also, be careful if you get Keratin treatments. If you do them more than twice a year, it can build up on the hair and cause discoloration.
What's your platinum pet peeve?
That women who go for it don’t commit enough. It's a commitment for it to look good. For platinum color, touch-ups at four to six weeks are ideal. Every two to three months is fine for those with highlights.
Is it absolutely impossible to have long hair (without extensions, of course) and have it be platinum?
Usually the ends will get too dry, although I do have clients with very long platinum hair. Generally speaking, these women are naturally blonde or light brown. When your hair is naturally lighter, you don't have to over-lift the hair color and compromise the condition to get it platinum.
What are your go-to favorite products to style your own platinum mane?
I love going to bed with it wet leaving in a little conditioner like ColoristCure and waking up with the body the bleached hair gives me. I look better with messy hair, so I like it a little "big" and undone.
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