Bright lights of Bogotá

Anastasia Moloney discovers that there's much more for English teachers to do in Colombia's vibrant and friendly capital city than just avoid being kidnapped
Bogota, Colombia
Bogotá lit up at night. Photograph: Ivan Kashinsky/Getty

Settling down in a city that was once known as the kidnap capital of the world may not be an obvious destination, but Bogotá often defies over-used stereotypes and surpasses expectations.

In fact, Bogotá is shrugging off its notorious reputation. This friendly Andean capital has had a facelift in recent years and boasts a well-preserved colonial district and night life that will get even the most flat-footed foreigner swinging with salsa couples on the dance floor 'til dawn.

There is a small but well-established expatriate community in Bogotá made up of embassy workers, teachers and oil contractors. Jim Pollard, a TEFL teacher at the British Council in Bogotá, has taught across the world from Thailand to the Czech Republic and says that Bogotá has been his favourite post so far. The fact that Bogotá draws relatively few foreigners is what makes this city attractive.

'You feel quite special here. There aren't millions of other backpackers and tourists in Bogotá. Colombians are friendly and keen to get to know you, and they don't see foreigners as people to exploit for money,' says Jim, 29, who has been living in Bogotá for the past two years.

The capital's varied night life, cosmopolitan feel and cheap living costs all combine to make Bogotá a good place to live and somewhere expats can enjoy a comfortable lifestyle, he adds.

Dominic Howe, originally from London, who teaches English part-time at the Catholic University in Bogotá, agrees that living in the capital is a pleasure because of its people.

'Colombians are very hospitable, open and are genuinely interested in who you are – and British culture,' says Dominic.

As the capital is not saturated with gap-year students and backpackers looking for casual teaching work on a whim, landing an English language teaching job is relatively easy. Dominic, 28, donned a suit and handed in his CV at several universities before being offered a job. 'Getting work was pretty straightforward,' says Dominic, who has a CELTA qualification.

'There are lots of opportunities for native English speakers and demand is high. It's possible to earn decent wages and you don't necessarily need TEFL qualifications either.'

Hourly rates for English language classes vary from £4.70 up to £14 for private lessons with company executives. With a TEFL qualification and some experience, expat salaries are often well above local ones, which means foreigners can enjoy the good life.

Perhaps the best salaries are to be found at the British Council where qualified TEFL teachers from Britain with at least two years' teaching experience can earn from £800 to £1,500 a month based on a 25-hour working week.

So what does that get you in real terms? Enough money to travel in South America during the holidays, live in a modern, spacious flat in a wealthy part of town, eat out at least two times a week, whizz around town in taxis and enjoy several shopping sprees. On top of all that, many TEFL jobs at established language centres and private bilingual schools include perks such as free annual flights home, private health insurance and professional training opportunities.

'Bogotá is 2,600 metres nearer the stars', so the local saying goes, making this city of eight million people the third highest in Latin America. It is set amid the backdrop of the majestic Andes mountain range, which make useful bearings when getting around the city.

Like any big city in Latin America, Bogotá suffers from clogged streets, pollution and staggering gaps between the rich and poor, but it's got many things going for it which rarely get publicised. It is home to an internationally acclaimed urban bus transport system, claims to host the largest theatre festival in the world and boasts some of the most important museums on the continent.

On Sunday mornings, the city's main streets are closed to traffic and are overtaken by families enjoying a walk while cyclists, rollerbladers and joggers exercise. Also popular at weekends is a leisurely stroll thorough the narrow cobbled streets of La Candelaria, the capital's historic colonial district, adorned with Moorish wooden balconies and tucked away in flowery courtyards.

For an evening drink, many expats head to the 'Zona T', a small pedestrianised area lined with trendy bars, cafes and restaurants where well-heeled Bogotanos wine and dine. For those who prefer a pint instead of local sweet rum and sugar-cane-based spirits, there are a string of popular English-style pubs around town. Bogotá's notorious reputation cannot be ignored, but avoiding trouble is about common sense and keeping vigilant.

'The city's got much safer during the last few years and as long you remain cautious and keep away from certain areas, particularly at night, foreigners experience few problems living in Bogotá,' says Dominic, who moved to the capital five years ago. Dotted around Bogotá are dozens of private country clubs boasting pristine golf courses, spas, and championship clay tennis courts where, just like everywhere else in the city, expats are always welcome.