



Required Tools
* Hot glue gun and roughly 10 hot glue sticks
* Heavy duty poultry shears or tin snips
* Serrated bread knife
* Serrated tomato knife
* Electric drill
* Permanent marker

Required Materials
* approx. 10 hot glue sticks
* electrical tape
* 2 x 16" long zip ties
* 2 small zip ties

Step 1: Replace Catbox Air Filters With Cardboard

Most hooded litter boxes have these silly "air filters" that slide into openings on the top-back of the hood and look like grey pot-scrubbing pads.  They do nothing to remove any of the smells...pure gimmick.  With our new fan-exhaust system, we will want air to draw in from the front opening of the hood, across the litter, and out the back.  Because the vents that come with the catbox are positioned at the top back of the cat-box, we will want to cover them to improve airflow from front to back.  Trace their exact shape on some corrugated cardboard twice, so you can have a double thickness to match the thickness of the filter slot.  Insert and trim.  
<p>Aweome! Very clever! I need to make this! And get a cat ...</p>
<p>What a DIFFERENCE!!! We love it and our cat loves it! Only thing i did different was filled some gaps with Great Stuff. Thanks for a great and easy idea!</p>
LOVE this -- thanks!<br><br>Tiny idea / improvement: When drilling the holes in the back of litter box, take lid off and drill from inside the lid. That way, most rough edges will be outside the box and you won't have to worry as much about tail or body getting injured by jagged edges. Also, could probably just use a power sander to lightly smooth over holes all at once.<br><br>For really long-haired kitties, glue a piece of window screen over the area where holes are! Or, if you've got really curious cats, do this to keep their noses and whiskers from intruding through holes, along with any stray bits of litter that get kicked up.
you can find some easy setup stuff try <a href="http://adafruit.com/ ">adafruit</a> and <a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/ ">sparkfun</a> they both have a good amount of solar parts.<br> <br> Thanks for posting the code below. I have started writing up code for both 2 and 4 wire fans. (2 or 3 wire fans take V+ Ground, 3 wire also out puts speed of fan. 4 wire fans also have PWM input for speed.)<br> <br> One of my cats has a problem with trying to attack the fan when its spinning at high speeds so I had to come up with a way to have it spin at around 30% of top speed. the newest fan in question is off of a <a href="http://www.techpowerup.com/gpudb/images/196.jpg ">nvida 8800 video card</a> thats long been dead. The 4 wire fan from it has really saved me on speed control but I still made it for both types of fans just in case.<br> <br> Along with the solar idea My code would most likely be easy on the power consumption as its not running all the time but starts slow when the cat enters the box waits till it leaves then turns it on full to make sure no air born smells get back in to the room.<br> <br> I will try to get pics of the box and fan setup soon to show how I made it. Who knows you might even change yours to run like this if the cats dont mind.
My friend and I thought of this and tried it over 10 years ago... the results were astounding...<br>The cat entered the catbox and proceeded to commence it's business, the fan turned on, literally scaring the poop out of the cat and caused the cat to go ballistic! The cover was thrown off the catbox, cat litter and poop spread all over and the cat departed at high speed for the closest convenient hiding place.<br>We nearly died laughing!<br>So this ought to be good for a laugh anyway... but beware, you may permanently traumatize your cat!<br>
I've found now, with three of these in operation in different households, that an &quot;always on&quot; quiet CPU fan doesn't seem to bother most cats. My mom's cat was the only exception, but then again I used a 120V model that was slightly louder than the rest, so it was hard to tell. See the Arduino extension for the sensitive cat owner's version.
The Arduino add-on is truly optional. I wouldn't bother unless your cats prove unable to handle the noise. Here's the code nonetheless. Note that I used an inverter chip to take every &quot;HIGH&quot; to &quot;LOW&quot; and vice versa. This is probably possible by altering the code to give the inverse behavior, though I wasn't successful in figuring this out.<br><br>/* <br> * //////////////////////////////////////////////////<br> * //making sense of the Parallax PIR sensor's output<br> * //////////////////////////////////////////////////<br> *<br> * Switches a LED according to the state of the sensors output pin.<br> * Determines the beginning and end of continuous motion sequences.<br> *<br> * @author: Kristian Gohlke / krigoo (_) gmail (_) com / http://krx.at<br> * @date: 3. September 2006 <br> *<br> * kr1 (cleft) 2006 <br> * released under a creative commons &quot;Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 2.0&quot; license<br> * http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/2.0/de/<br> *<br> *<br> * The Parallax PIR Sensor is an easy to use digital infrared motion sensor module. <br> * (http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=555-28027)<br> *<br> * The sensor's output pin goes to HIGH if motion is present.<br> * However, even if motion is present it goes to LOW from time to time, <br> * which might give the impression no motion is present. <br> * This program deals with this issue by ignoring LOW-phases shorter than a given time, <br> * assuming continuous motion is present during these phases.<br> * <br> */<br><br>/////////////////////////////<br>//VARS<br>//the time we give the sensor to calibrate (10-60 secs according to the datasheet)<br>int calibrationTime = 10; <br><br>//the time when the sensor outputs a low impulse<br>long unsigned int lowIn; <br><br>//the amount of milliseconds the sensor has to be low <br>//before we assume all motion has stopped<br>long unsigned int pause = 25000; <br><br>boolean lockLow = true;<br>boolean takeLowTime; <br><br>int pirPin = 3; //the digital pin connected to the PIR sensor's output<br>int ledPin = 13;<br>int outPin = 12;<br><br>/////////////////////////////<br>//SETUP<br>void setup(){<br> Serial.begin(9600);<br> pinMode(pirPin, INPUT);<br> pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);<br> pinMode(outPin, OUTPUT);<br> digitalWrite(pirPin, LOW);<br> digitalWrite(outPin, LOW);<br><br> //give the sensor some time to calibrate<br> Serial.print(&quot;calibrating sensor &quot;);<br> for(int i = 0; i &lt; calibrationTime; i++){<br> Serial.print(&quot;.&quot;);<br> delay(1000);<br> }<br> Serial.println(&quot; done&quot;);<br> Serial.println(&quot;SENSOR ACTIVE&quot;);<br> delay(50);<br> }<br><br>////////////////////////////<br>//LOOP<br>void loop(){<br><br> if(digitalRead(pirPin) == HIGH){<br> digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); //the led visualizes the sensors output pin state<br> if(lockLow){ <br> //makes sure we wait for a transition to LOW before any further output is made:<br> lockLow = false; <br> Serial.println(&quot;---&quot;);<br> Serial.print(&quot;motion detected at &quot;);<br> Serial.print(millis()/1000);<br> Serial.println(&quot; sec&quot;); <br> digitalWrite(outPin, HIGH);<br> delay(50);<br> } <br> takeLowTime = true;<br> }<br><br> if(digitalRead(pirPin) == LOW){ <br> digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); //the led visualizes the sensors output pin state<br><br> if(takeLowTime){<br> lowIn = millis(); //save the time of the transition from high to LOW<br> takeLowTime = false; //make sure this is only done at the start of a LOW phase<br> }<br> //if the sensor is low for more than the given pause, <br> //we assume that no more motion is going to happen<br> if(!lockLow &amp;&amp; millis() - lowIn &gt; pause){ <br> //makes sure this block of code is only executed again after <br> //a new motion sequence has been detected<br> lockLow = true; <br> Serial.print(&quot;motion ended at &quot;); //output<br> Serial.print((millis() - pause)/1000);<br> Serial.println(&quot; sec&quot;);<br> digitalWrite(outPin, LOW);<br> delay(50);<br> }<br> }<br> }
I like the idea, effort and creativity here. Did you try adjusting your cat's diet too? Sometimes changing brands is all it takes. The other is the litter. We use one of the bargain brands that comes in a big yellow 35 lb. bucket with blue or red top. No smell, even if we miss the cleaning schedule. That's the other thing, clean it more often. Now, if your cat is regularly going out on stewed mackerel &amp; chorizo binges, none of the above may help.<br><br>;-)
Cat boxes don't smell if you change the litter frequently and clean the litter box. Also depends what you're feeding the cat. Cheap ash-packed cat food will make their poo smell.<br><br>Or you could just toilet train like I have! :)
Yes they do! But you don't notice it because you're used to it. I couldn't smell anything but my moms face went from :D -&gt; D: when she visited. And we clean it often, use quality &quot;sand&quot; and food :)
Actually, I'd have to agree with PinUpRetro. I'm in and out of my apartment constantly with school and work. So I'm always having multiple chances to get used to the smell outside of my apt before coming back in. Never once have I ever come in, when I regularly clean the box, and thought &quot;gee, that actually smells&quot;. <br>For the most part I clean it every single day and use a scented clay-based littler, for multiple cats, that I change every 2 weeks. I have 2 cats who use it a LOT and both are fed a natural diet.<br>I've NEVER had a problem with smelly littler boxes, and it's not because I'm &quot;used to the smell&quot; since I frequently am not home and have visiters over as well. My mother-in-law is a real clean freak and even she never smells it when she visits. She'd tell me too, trust me...<br>The only time I do smell it is when I forget to clean it for a day or 2.<br>So yeah. Maybe it depends on the cat, but it's certainly not all litter boxes since mine and PinUpRetro haven't had that problem.
Cheers bud - same here.<br><br>I'm out all day at work and would have noticed a smell when I came through the door (I'm like a bloodhound for smell). <br><br>We have three cats so emptied poo out twice a day and changed the (clumping smell absorbing) litter every 5-7days depending on usage (in the summer they tended to addnutrients to the flowers). <br><br>My mum has all the subtley of a sledgehammer to the face and would say if it smelt too. <br><br>Diet isimportant too (just like with humans) - eat a bad fatty diet and your/their poo will smell. <br><br>
Well, since your mom never smelled hers either I doubt that she got used to the smell as well. It might actually be the litter you're using. <br>A while back I actually tried a different litter called &quot;World's Best Cat Litter&quot;, hoping to move from the clay based brand I had. Turns out I got rid of the stuff the very next day because I came home from being out for just half a day and was able to smell the stench. The litter did nothing to mask the smell. <br>After going back to the clay based stuff I again don't smell anything when I come home. So I definitely know the difference which would mean my nose didn't get used to anything. I bet the type of litter has a lot more to do with masking the smell than people realize.<br>Why don't you try switching out and see if that makes a difference? I use Fresh Step, if you were wondering. :)
I use scented litter sand too (damn company sent us a back-breaking amount of wrong litter sand) and i clean it 3 times a day. I guess it depends on a lot of factors :) <br><br>In any case people get used to scents and smells that much is a given, but whether or not it is the critical issue here... well apparently not :)<br><br>We have two persians, one which is an idiot at burying and another who's a champion (he will even cover the &quot;retarded&quot; cats droppings). So that's not a problem.<br><br>In reality it's probably ventilation - we tend not to ventilate a lot in the summer period since both of us are allergic to mosquitos. In this case this hack would work very well, but our windows can't fit a system like this *sadface*.
how hard is it do toilet train? can old cats learn? do you have any good links or tips and tricks?<br>
We tried the &quot;City Kitty&quot; system of toilet training prior to this ventilation system, with the careful cycle of adjusting them to get comfortable with perching atop the bowl, and all hell eventually broke loose.<br><br>We have friends who had success with it, so perhaps we just didn't have the right touch. Nevertheless, the potty training device blocks the toilet from normal human use for months on end, which is no fun for small apartment dwellers.
Depends on the cat. One of our cats picked it up straight away - lady (her daughter) is a dunderhead and took a bit longer. <br><br>Age is irrelevant unless it's a cat too old to balance on the seat. Pregnant cats shouldn't be toilet trained either (nursing either - just in case on of the kittens is attached to a nipple!) obviously kittens shouldn't be toilet trained for obvious reasons. <br><br>I used the Litter Quitter. But I guess you could try and make something similar.<br><br>Tips: move their litter tray into the bathroom - make sure they see it and the door is always open. <br><br>When they've gone a few times (all cats have to have reached this stage - as with each stage) you can exchange their tray for the quitter (red stage) on the floor. Then when they've successfully gone in the put it on the loo. Sookie got this first time, lady took a little longer - we had to go back a stage with her. <br><br>Then change to Amber (see the pattern emerging): which still has room for litter but has a small hole in the middle - encouraging them to aim for the hole and sit more on the seat and not in the litter. <br><br>The green stage is similar to Amber except the hole is bigger. <br><br>It can take a few weeks if you have a lot if cats or some stooooopid ones. If we just had sookie it would have taken a few days to go though the stages. <br><br>Great thing about this is they love it - their poo disappears ANC they don't have to bury it, you don't gave to empty a tray - just flush, don't have to buy litter any more snd when I have a baby I don't need to worry about handling litter. <br><br>The litter quitter fits over the loo, but it's best to
Ahhhh that makes sense. Thanks for responding!
Air does escape. It's just a flap. It prevents small animals and most larger bugs from entering the whole system. She basically duplicated what you would see in the kits she refers to.<br><br>Awesome Idea I think!
Assumably that glued on &quot;bubble-cap&quot; kind of thing has a hole cut out on the bottom to allow the air to escape.
Yes, exactly!
I was with you up until this point. For those out there that need Portability, Don't Cut the Jumper/ Connector off, Instead, find an old Female Plug, Soldier it to the wires ( Check for polarity first ) then Glue plug to fan housing. Now if the Transformer ever quits, just simply unplug jumper &amp; replace as needed.<br>This will help If &amp; When you ever move to another house.
Nice suggestion! I totally agree this should be part of the idealized version of this project.
This is a great idea and would work fantastically.! My husband made something similar back in the 1980s and we have been using it ever since. What we did was cut a &quot;mouse hole&quot; shaped opening (cat size) through a wall of our house to the outdoors. Then we built and attached an enclosed plywood box to the house, over the mouse hole. It has a a piano-hinged side, kept tightly closed with a sliding bolt gate latch, that allows easy OUTDOOR access to the standard size cat box pan inside. We put weather stripping in and around everything to secure it against bugs and weather. For exterior venting, we cut a hole in the plywood and placed a Rotron &quot;whisper&quot; fan (used in computers and electronic devices) in the hole and covered it with screening. We covered the fan with an elbow and then a 10' piece of pvc pipe that goes straight up the side of the house. The fan draws the stinky air out of the box and up the pvc &quot;chimney,&quot; and his type of fan is quiet so that it doesn't disturb our kitties. Nobody has EVER smelled cat box at our house, and if you keep the mouse hole small, no bigger than kitty bodies, it doesn't affect your utility bill. It's a one-day job that saves you so much time and frustration! Paint a couple of mice at the hole and, voila!
...another project ...<br>dang my list is really long
Like it, +1 for the contest.<br>I no longer keep cats like I used to when I was a kid (they have the nasty habit to die after a while) but one of the things i remember is the litter-box smell, huh!<br>Alessandro
Yeah, strange thing that. Cats seem to last about 20 years and then it's all down hill from there.
Until the commercial release of the &quot;recycled glass&quot; litter, I certainly was never acclimatized to the stink. I never used pet-shop litter trays because they're too small and shallow. What are those scratch marks on the wall? Oh, that's where the cat was attempting to bury something...<br><br>I did a ventilation job as well, with water-pipe that hung just above the height of the tray edge and went to the ceiling, through a small fan, and then out the root-top. Pity I didn't know about Instructables at the time! <br><br>This definitely gets a vote from me.
wow hope 3 cats can use this
You should have one box for every cat anyway, plus one more as a 'just in case' :)
yeah we have2 liter boxs not 3 2 dont mind

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Bio: teaching and learning enthusiast, physics teacher, urban STEM educator, school leader, ed tech developer, maker of things
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