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Volvo S70



  • lweisslweiss Posts: 342
    I take my Volvo to Jiffy Lube for the regular oil changes and fluid fills. And they don't have access to (or don't know how to) reset the service light, it seems that only Volvo dealerships or specialty shops can do that. So I just ignore it.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,690
    or you can get yourself the nifty little service light reset tool from IPD. ;)


  • asikaasika Posts: 8
    On 1998 - 2001 C70, S70, S80, V70, S40 and V40, the service light reminder comes on at 7,500 mile interval or 750 hours of driving indicate oil and filter change is scheduled. It will stay on for 2 minutes. To reset that light, try:
    1. Turn ignition off, press and hold the trip odometer reset button.
    2. While holding the button turn ignition on (without starting the engine).
    3. The service light will start flashing after 10 seconds.
    4. Release the trip odometer button within 4 seconds.
    5. The instrument cluster will produce a sound when the reset is complete and the light will go out.

    *If the button is not released with 4 seconds, the light will not reset;; but it will stop flashing.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,690
    I can tell you firsthand that it doesn't work on a '98. Only a special tool can reset the light.


  • I have had the same problem. Can anyone give us any suggestions on how to correct the problem.

    Also the compressor and the fan motor work independently but not together. Please adivse.

  • tlhjaytlhjay Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Volvo S70 GLT w/about 130k miles, and the driver side window will not roll up, is this an unusual problem with this model, if not is it usually the motor or could it be the switch? Help! I get wet when it rains. Oh yea, is there anyway I can roll the window up manually until I get it fixed?
  • i tried this on my 1998 volvo with no luck. but thanks anyway for the advice. :)
  • is there any way i can increase the HP and torque of my 1998 volvo s70 glt without shelling over too much money?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,690
    what? you didn't believe me? ;)


  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,690
    how much is too much money?

    You can get it chipped for a few hundred bucks. Produces tremendous results on a turbo car.

    Just don't go running it on a track until you upgrade the exhaust, though.

    There are plenty of chip manufacturers. I personally had planned on going with upsolute on my T5 ... but never went through with it, and now the car is gone. oh well.

    anyway, what i liked about upsolute is that you could get an option where they give you a remote control to change the program to either stock or boosted. I thought this would be great if you either lend your car out or use valet parking. I believe it was around $400-$450 for this particular setup. Just the standard chip without the remote is maybe $350-$400. I haven't checked their prices in a while.


  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,690
    it could be the motor or the switch. Easy enough to diagnose by taking the door panel off, putting a test light on the motor, and hitting the switch. If power is going to the motor, but nothing happens, then its the motor.

    I'm not sure about manually putting it up, but I'd imagine this would also involve removing the door panel.

    Have you tried holding the switch and gently pulling up on the glass. Any result? Usually if the motor is just tired, you can get the window up this way.


  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    ipd is probably your best bet to increase the power of your S70.
    They represent TME, which is a Swedish tuning co.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,690
    well, the poster did say they didn't want to shell out alot of money. IPD is about twice the cost of just about any other chip option. I won't get into whether its worth it or not, because we both know that's been debated to death elsewhere. But let's just say, at this point, on a '98 S70 GLT, "protecting your investment" becomes less of a concern. It would be one thing if we were talking about a $20k car, or even a $10k car ... but we're not.


  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    ipd isn't that bad. Plus, the customer service is great.
    I had a bad experience w/ upsolute so I'm leery of them.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,690
    Would you please share your experience with upsolute? Like I said, I never got around to doing mine, so it would be good to have the info for future reference.

    IPD is GREAT! Don't get me wrong. They do a tremendous amount of legwork for the volvo aftermarket scene, and their products are typically top notch. I just don't use them that much, personally. I purchased their stainless brake lines and some other odds and ends over the years. I just could never justify buying the more expensive stuff from them or even the common repair items (FCP Groton or alloemautoparts were much cheaper for the same stuff).


  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    upsolute fried the ecu on my C70. Thankfully they bought me a new one, but still it was very aggravating.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,690
    did it fry while you were driving it? Or did they fry it while installing the chip. I can see the latter happening. I mean, that's a risk you take by soldering onto a circuit board.

    Did you have to mail yours out? The other advantage that appealed to me about upsolute is that there was a dealer near by, so I could just drive there and have him do it on the spot.


  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    it was done during the install.
    I had my service dept overnight a new one.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,690
    ok. so an installer mistake, then. Not something I would hold against upsolute as a company, personally. That would be like writing off Volvo because one tech didn't fix your car properly.


  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    the reason the problem occured in the first place was because upsolute had the wrong security code for the cars ecu.
  • why does my 1998 volvo s70 glt have squeaky brakes??? is there any way to fix it? its sooo loud. i can see pedestrians walking on the street annoyed by the sound when i brake near them. advice is appreciated. thx!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,690
    when is the last time you changed the pads?

    There are several causes of squeaking. Old pads, new pads, missing or broken retainer spring, lack of that pasty stuff the installer should put on the back of the pads, glazing, and probably other issues I'm failing to mention.


  • jud_ejud_e Posts: 2
    I'm having the same problems you describe. I took my S-70 to the dealer and they upgraded the software for the Throttle. I'm still having problems and they said it could be the antenna ring. Did you get your car fixed?
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Most of the time it is dust between the pad and rotor.
    You need to hose off the calipers regularly.
  • The "Check Engine" light recently came on in my 99 S70. I took it to the mechanic, and he said the computer showed that both my O2 sensors need to be replaced. I looked for them on the Internet, and it seems that there are universal O2 sensors and OE (Original Equipment) sensors. The price difference between the two is very high. I want to know if the Universal ones are just as good as the OE ones or not. Moreover, any difference between brands (Bosh, Denso, Walker)?

    Thank you for your help...
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,032

    Jeannine Fallon
    Corporate Communications


  • My S 70 ('99, 152k) sometimes fails to accelerate. RPMs will remain constant or slowly decrease for a couple of seconds before it switches back into 'normal mode' and starts accelerating. This situation occurs irregularly and at various speeds (of up to 60-70 mph). I had the throttle body replaced about 2 years ago and the dealer replaced the ETM several months ago when I had issues with "car idle hunts". Any advice?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,690
    so you step on the gas and the rpms actually drop or stay the same?

    I'd have to say that's a throttle issue ... again. Its not responding to your inputs. If the ETM was just replaced several months ago, I'd go back to the same dealer and let them know you think you are having a problem with their replacement unit.


  • Thanks
    Yes, RPM go down and engine starts to stutter for a couple of seconds at low speeds. More specifically, if I am driving at more than 25-30 miles, I just feel temporary loss of engine power which corrects itself within 4-5 seconds -- and car starts to accelerate thereafter.

    Differently, and when driving more slowly (i.e., after a complete stop) the engine will actually decrease RPM and it will be difficult to accelerate -- so that I actually pulled to the side of road..........

    Separately, sometimes engine shuts down when I have no gear engaged (manual transmission). It also sometimes idles irregularly (between 800-1000 RPM) although not as wild as experienced two years ago (and when they changed throttle body).

    Do you still recommend to go to dealership indicating issue with previously installed ETM unit (ETM was replaced free of charge in June 06 with following invoice indication: ETM was replace RO#247772)?

    By the way can you direct me to a source to learn more about basic functionality of ETM unit?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,690
    unfortunately, I can't find a source that isn't a forum, which I'm not allowed to post.

    If you search this board we are on now for ETM and ETS (the ETM is part of the ETS system), you'll find quite a bit of discussion right here.

    Speaking of which, you may want to get yours cleaned and see if that fixes the problem.

    If the problem is consistent (meaning the rpms ALWAYS drop when sitting still), I suppose it could be something like a vaccuum leak, but that would be tough to track down. Since the ETM is a known problem that crops up time and again on these cars, that would be the first place I would look.


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