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Highest peak in the Americas beckons

Aconcagua is a very big mountain, and the dream of reaching the tophas to match its size. Standing 22,835 feet tall, Aconcagua - inwestern Argentina, 75 miles northeast of Santiago, Chile - is thehighest mountain in the Americas and the highest mountain outsideof the Himalayas. Every year almost 4,000 people, most of them fromthe United States, attempt to put their feet on the top. LastJanuary, during the Southern Hemisphere summer, I was one ofthem.

For many, it's a "because it's there" challenge, but for others,climbing the mountain is a way to prove or celebrate something.

I went to mark my 50th birthday - and to find solace on thismassive peak known in the local Indians' language as "The StoneSentinel."

Scaling the slopes of Aconcagua via the normal route is relativelyeasy; advanced mountaineering skills like using ropes or iceclimbing are optional. But still this is serious adventure,requiring rigorous physical training for several months prior todeparture, proper acclimatization, top-quality gear and a reliableguide. The high altitude, storms and cold weather prevent more thanhalf of the climbers from getting to the top - and some dietrying.

My problems began when I didn't allow enough time foracclimatization.

On the climb, I grew tired carrying my heavy sleeping bag and toomuch warm clothing; my water bottles froze up for lack of adequateprotection. I got as high as the high camp - 16,100 feet - twice(once to carry equipment) before one of my climbing companionsdeveloped cerebral edema and had to be evacuated by a rescuehelicopter.

So I didn't make it.

But I'm thinking about going back to this spectacularly remoteplace. And trying again.

If you go

GETTING THERE: Since a climbing permit ($330 in highseason, Dec. 15-Jan. 31; good for 20 days) must be obtained inperson, your trip will begin 115 miles from the mountain atAconcagua Provincial Park headquarters in Mendoza, Argentina.

The easiest way to get to Mendoza is to fly through Santiago,Chile - or Buenos Aires, though that requires changingairports.

Mendoza is your last chance to get any missing gear, purchasefood and get some rest.

Organizing a climb

There are three ways to tackle Aconcagua:

1. Climb with one of many reliable companies from Argentina withset itineraries.

2. Create your own itinerary, then use one of those companies toorganize logistics and provide guiding services.

3. Climb without a guide -- but only if you are an experiencedmountain climber.

THE CLIMB: Aconcagua is a part of Aconcagua ProvincialPark, and there are park ranger stations at the entrance and at allcamps. The two most popular routes to the top are Rio Horcones andRio Vacas. Medical assistance is available.

The climb takes four to six days from the base camps (about14,000 feet), but from Mendoza (2,310 feet) you really do need oneweek to acclimatize at lower altitudes first. Allow at least twoweeks for the entire expedition.

In case of emergency, rangers will assist with evacuation andorganize rescue missions to the higher camps if possible.

ALTERNATIVES: There also are great trekking trails in themountain's foothills, which attract about 2,500 tourists everyyear.

INFORMATION: For general information and expeditioncompanies: For gear andclimber logs:

Copyright © 2014, Daily Press
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