Thai Pickled Cabbage

Makes about 4 cups

1 1/2 pounds Napa cabbage

2 tablespoons kosher salt

1/2 cup lime juice

3 tablespoons fish sauce

1 tablespoon sugar

1 clove garlic, finely minced or put through a press

2/3-inch piece peeled fresh ginger, finely minced

1 small jalapeño chile

1. Discard the tough outer leaves of the cabbage. Quarter the cabbage lengthwise and chop into 1-inch pieces. Place in a large colander. Sprinkle the salt over the cabbage; combine thoroughly with your hands. Let it sit in the sink for 20 minutes; stir it once halfway through -- you'll notice that the cabbage has started to wilt and get wet.

2. Combine the lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, garlic and ginger in a large bowl. Stem the jalapeño, slice it into very thin rounds and add it to the bowl.

3. Rinse the cabbage with cool water to get rid of some of the salt. Squeeze it very firmly and repeatedly to expel as much moisture as you can, then let it drain well; if it is too wet, it will dilute your pickle.

4. Add the drained cabbage to the brine; toss to combine. This pickle can be eaten straight away, but it is much better the next day. Unused portions can be refrigerated for at least 3 weeks.

-- Karen Solomon, "Asian Pickles" (Ten Speed Press, $19.99, 208 pages)