Streets Ahead

Each week we visit an emerging neighbourhood in a different city. This week: the Barranco district of Lima
Streets ahead: Lima
Streets ahead: Lima. Illustration: Adam Hayes

Barranco is the cliff area of Lima, about five minutes south of the centre by collectivo bus (destinations are written on the side).

In the 1920s this was where rich and famous Peruvians built their summer houses - but as the city eventually merged into the resort, the rich and famous moved elsewhere.

Today, the squatters who replaced them are being driven out and the rich are returning, along with a thriving artistic community. With its brightly painted art-deco houses and purple blossoming trees, Barranco is a real antidote to the soulless business districts and slum areas of the rest of Lima.

Many of the buildings fell into decline over the late 20th century. Now they are being restored to their former art-deco glory, and where that proves impossible, modern Californian-style houses are springing up in their place. This isn't just the work of developers. Many places have been taken over by artists' collectives and, if you can find a resident bohemian, they're usually happy to show you their building.

It's worth taking time to wander around the many atmospheric bars and restaurants and surprising sights, from the dilapidated but beautiful church of La Ermita to free public dance classes in the Parque Principal.

Barranco is more noted for its restaurants than shops but has the odd quirky attraction, such as the museum of electricity and the food markets. Best of all, it's small enough and safe enough to just wander about. Also, away from the main thoroughfare and down towards the sea it could even be described as tranquil - not something you can say for much of the rest of Lima.

The beach is a little uninspiring and pebbly but the view from the cliffs is magnificent, and you can even surf here, should the urge take you.

Posada del Mirador

A pretty bar at the end of an enchanting little street of brightly coloured adobe buildings - the most romantic place in Lima, just up from the Bridge of Sighs, overlooking the Pacific Ocean and the huge cross of lights erected to commemorate the visit of John Paul II. The decor is faded colonial and the food is fairly basic - patatas fritas, fried yucca - but the ceviche is very good. You can sit outside on the balcony or, if it gets a bit colder, retreat inside and still enjoy the view. Allegedly accepts Visa but you'll find things easier with cash. No need to book.

Ermita 104, +51 1477 1120

Posada del Angel

Impressively atmospheric bar of low lights and heavy decoration, full of statuettes and images of angels, colonial art, incense - even a red telephone box, which you assume is from Britain until you read "telefono" at the top. Stuffed to bursting with antiques and bric-a-brac, it doesn't get more bohemian than this. Latin American trova music is played nightly, with songs to stir the socialist heart and prices to please the socialist pocket. There are two sister bars in Barranco.

Av Pedro de Osma 164-222, +51 1247 0341


Just up from the Posada del Mirador, but a world away in terms of food and decor, Chala is an innovative and modern restaurant popular with Barranco's smart set. Here you can eat duck in blue corn juice, goat with macaroni cubes or carpaccio of tuna on Japanese rice. Chala has a balcony area that is particularly pleasant in the evenings, as it looks out over a beautifully lit cobbled avenue that leads down to the sea.

Bajada de Baños 343, +51 252 8515,

Lucia de la Puente art gallery

A cool, contemporary, commercial art gallery set in one of Barranco's signature colonial houses. Its ambition is to offer Peruvian art to international standards. Current exhibitions include Aldo Chaparro and José Tola.

Paseo Sáenz Peña 206,

Second Home

This used to be the house of the sculptor Victor Delfin - and it's also a five-bedroom B&B. It's expensive by Peruvian standards but worth it, overflowing with pieces by Delfin, with a magnificent view of the Pacific. The building seems modelled on a Swiss chalet but inside it's cool art deco. The gardens are full of sculptures, too. Doubles from US$85 B&B.

Domeyer 366, +51 1247 5522,

Pedro de Osma museum

A lovely, early 20th-century mansion surrounded by impressive gardens. It contains some truly stunning, and at times revolting, examples of religious art. The ceramic head of John the Baptist is certainly not for the faint hearted. There is also a large collection of silver.

Av Pedro de Osma 433,