Aim higher, reach further.

Retiring to the Open Sea

How one couple set sail for Europe and spent eight years exploring the Mediterranean

The Stellins approaching Horta in the Azores as they headed toward Europe. ENLARGE
The Stellins approaching Horta in the Azores as they headed toward Europe. William Stellin

'Bill," Judy called to me, her voice remarkably calm. "I think I have a broken wrist."

Two days earlier, we had set out from Rhode Island aboard our 42-foot sailboat, bound for Bermuda—which was two days distant. The night before, Judy's arm got tangled up with the main sheet as we were changing course.

This was the beginning of what we hoped would be our retirement adventure: crossing the Atlantic and living on our boat as we explored the Mediterranean and Europe. There were immediate thoughts of turning around and abandoning our plans.

But Judy wouldn't hear of it. We arrived in Bermuda and spent a month there while Judy's arm healed. That would be the darkest moment in what became an eight-year odyssey: embracing, and reveling in, a cruising lifestyle.

Judy at the helm on rough seas crossing the Atlantic. ENLARGE
Judy at the helm on rough seas crossing the Atlantic. William Stellin

What would prompt two retirees (I was 65 and Judy 64) to do something most people just dream about? First, we had the boat, which we already had sailed on the Great Lakes for four years. Our sailing experience actually goes back to the mid-1970s in a variety of keel boats.

Second, we have understanding children, who were just beginning to have our grandchildren and who gave us their blessing to embark on what we called "Bill and Judy's most excellent adventure."

Third, we are adventuresome by nature, and this seemed like a great way to experience a wonderful sport to its fullest.

Initially we were going to live on the boat for only a year or so. My main goal was simply to sail across the ocean and back. However, once we berthed in Horta (on the Azores islands, approaching Europe) and talked to other sailors—and realized how much there was to see and do—we decided we might have to adjust our timetable.

As it turned out, one year blended into the next, and before we knew it eight years had passed while we sailed the length and breadth of the Mediterranean. Here's a brief look at how we did it and how others can do the same.

High-Class Camping

To start—and at the risk of stating the obvious—you must have a boat and some experience. It helps to be mechanically handy as you have to be your own repairman much of the time. The Internet and the Global Positioning System have greatly facilitated long-distance and long-term cruising.

A short walk from their moorage in the harbor of Horta (background), the Stellins had this view of the Bay of Porto Pim. ENLARGE

While we were cruising, we maintained our home in Grand Rapids, Mich. It was a great base to fly back to for the Christmas holidays, and in some years for July and August. (The Mediterranean is hot and crowded at the height of summer.)

At various points, family and neighbors kept an eye on our house; we also hired a lawn service. The only significant increase in our bills was the cost of flying back and forth from Europe two times each year.

Living expenses were actually lower on our boat than at home. (No expensive auto and utility bills.) A good mix of tying up at marinas (about €15 to €30, or $19 to $38, a day) and anchoring (free) kept day-to-day sailing expenses manageable. Most other costs—including boat insurance, food, clothing and maintenance—were a wash.

Most people don't have a clear idea of what cruising is all about. I guess the best answer is that it is like high-class camping. You are outdoors a good bit of the time. There is a lot of walking (good for the body) and, if you are in the Mediterranean, fabulous food (which also happens to be healthy).

Santorini in the Greek islands as seen during a scooter excursion from their boat. ENLARGE
Santorini in the Greek islands as seen during a scooter excursion from their boat. William Stellin

Trials and setbacks are commonplace. Replacing a roll of Scotch tape can be an all-day affair. Language differences turn simple chores into adventures. And then there's the weather. Many say the wind in the Mediterranean either doesn't blow or it blows 100 miles per hour. In reality, it is much like Lake Michigan.

In conversations with other live-aboard cruisers, we all seem to agree that the main attraction isn't passage making or sightseeing, but rather people.

Wherever we moored the boat for an extended winter stay, we met and shared marina slip space with a large community of cruisers who had a common love of sailing and adventure. Most were from other parts of Europe, but some were locals who were just as eager to socialize. This allowed us to immerse ourselves in the local community and helped hone our language skills.

One of the side benefits was that socialization often included invitations to homes for dinner parties and terrific meals. The friendships we made are still active. To this day we continue to visit with the people we met—sometimes as hosts here in Michigan and sometimes as guests in Europe.

Winters in Barcelona

Another great benefit of cruising is the absence of timetables and deadlines. If we wanted to linger in a famous port, we did.

During our third year, while cruising the coast of Croatia (our favorite area) and looking for a good spot to winter, we decided late in the summer to sail to Venice. We moored at the city's only yacht club, which had limited space for transients. They made room for us for one night—and then two, and then three. Our plans for a quick visit eventually stretched into a seven-month stay.

Indeed, little of our wandering was planned. As the years rolled by, we continued to sail east, finally spending a winter along Turkey's southwestern coast in Kemer Marina. A highlight of this stay was participating in the Eastern Mediterranean Yacht Rally. We covered 1,500 sea miles over eight weeks, during which we visited ports in Cyprus, eastern Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Jordan and Egypt. Land tours took us to 15 different World Heritage Sites. These are experiences we never could have duplicated through standard travel tours.

Other than Judy's mishap at the start of our journey, medical care wasn't much of an issue. We were both healthy and needed no care except for occasional dental work. In Italy I had to have a root canal and crown, while Judy had to have a broken tooth rebuilt. Neither cost more than €150—about one-tenth the cost in the U.S. And the work was first class.

Our last two winters in the Mediterranean were in the marvelous city of Barcelona. The marina, Port Vell, is in the heart of the city, and bus and subway stops were within a stone's throw of the dock where we tied up. Given its role as the art and cultural capital of Spain, as well as the engine of the national economy, Barcelona was the perfect big city to experience.

It was during our final winter in Barcelona that we realized we had reached the end of our journey. We had traveled every inch of the European Mediterranean coast, including the Middle East, Tunisia, Morocco and every major island. It was time to return to the U.S. and home.

Do we miss the lifestyle? By all means. It was enriching, exciting, peaceful—and yes, a little terrifying at times. But we haven't given it up completely. We are still cruising and racing—only we do it closer to home now, on Lake Michigan.

Mr. Stellin can be reached at

Show More Archives

Popular on WSJ

Editors’ Picks