Spanish secrets

By Jon Clarke, Daily Mail

Last updated at 15:25 08 June 2007

2007/TM_SUN/24883Axarquia_428x269.jpg THE RUGGED COAST

Tired of: The concrete and tarmac jungle of the Costa Brava's Lloret de Mar? Now try: Head further north to the bays that earned the stretch of coast its name. From Calella de Palafrugell northwards, you'll find precipitous, pine-clad coves with no high rises, just horseshoe beaches dipping their sandy toes into aquamarine waters.

As the resorts were developed in the 50s and 60s, the restaurants and hotels are low key and full of character. What else? In Aiguablava, there is a hotel that has been a family institution for more years than they care to remember. It has a fiercely loyal group of guests who book every year. Offshore, there is a national marine park. The 4-star Hotel Aigua Blava can be booked through Magic of Spain (0800 980 3378; One week's half board is from £846 and includes car hire and flights to Barcelona from Gatwick (regional supplements from £10). Child reduction 20 per cent, sharing a room.


Tired of: The British ghetto that Majorca's northern resort of Pollenca has become?

Now try: A converted self-catering farmhouse based inland in the island's rural south-east. Sure, the beaches are teeming on the east coast in summer, but if you explore due south you'll discover much quieter sands around Cap Salines. What else? Typical of the rural properties available is Ca'n Quadrat, close to the village of Cas Concos. This is where you get to see Majorca's older, less visited, face. Vintage Spain (01954 261431; www. features 50 rural properties. Ca'n Quadrat at Cas Concos sleeps up to seven from £795 a week. Flights and car hire can also be arranged through the company.


Tired of: The windy Costa de la Luz?

Now try: The charming corner of Almeria known as the Cabo de Gata. It's one stretch of Spanish coastline not ruined by development, and only a 20-minute drive from Almeria airport. Perfect as an all-year holiday destination - with an annual rainfall of 200mm, it's the driest place in Europe. What else? Cabo de Gata, a protected park, is a walkers' paradise of undulating red plains and hidden coves. Cortijo El Sotillo (San Jose, Nijar, Almeria; 00 34 950 611 100), a white-walled Andaluz farmhouse, has hosted Willem Dafoe, Clint Eastwood and Geri Halliwell. Double rooms from E115 (£83) to E160 (£115) a night.


Tired of: The bodegas of Rioja and Jerez?

Now try: The vineyards of the recently awarded appellation DO Sierras de Malaga around Ronda. German aristocrat Alfonso von Hohenlohe, who created the tourist phenomenon of Marbella and the Costa del Sol, was so disillusioned with what he had spawned that he moved inland to Ronda. He planted vines, ending up making one of Spain's best wines.

What else? A number of the Ronda vineyards, including Hohenlohe's magical Cortijo de las Monjas, can now be visited. Wine buffs will enjoy the estate of F. Shatz and the excellent bodega Pasos Lagos.

The ultra-stylish Fuente de la Higuera (Partido de los Frontones, 29400 Ronda; 00 34 952 114 355) has doubles from E135 (£97) per night, or E908 (£653) a week.


Tired of: Skiing in the Pyrenees and Sierra Nevada?

Now try: The Guadarrama range. The four resorts of the breathtaking Sierra de Guadarrama, an hour's drive from Madrid, are worth a visit. This is the coldest part of Spain in winter and if it is snow you are after there is plenty of it, as well as romantic villages. What else? The snow-capped peaks that make the views around Segovia and Avila so alluring from December to March are not going to be as sophisticated as the Alps or Pyrenees, but you'll not meet a single tourist and it is possible to ski three resorts - Valdesqui, Valcotos and Navacerrada - in one day. Stay at the cozy and hip Cason de la Pinilla (Travesia, 40592, Cerezo de Arriba, Sergovia; 00 34 921 557 201), near La Pinilla , with double rooms from E65 (£47) to E75 (£54) a night.


Tired of: Madrid, Segovia, Toledo and Avila?

Now try: Cuenca. An escape for stressed-out Madrilenos and exiled artists, the ancient streets of this medieval site are tourist-free. It's a little more than an hour's drive from Madrid, and sits on the edge of the Spanish meseta in a mountain range with strange rock formations.

What else? Ciudad Encantada is a must visit. The town is full of interesting buildings, including the Casas Colgadas (or Hanging Houses), which have perched precariously over the town's gorge since the 15th century. Take a room with a view at the labyrinthine Posada San Jose (Calle Julian Romero 4; 00 34 969 211 300) a charming 400-year-old convent overlooking the gorge. Double rooms from E60 (£43) to E120 (£86) per night.


Tired of: The Alpujarras, the hilly region south of Granada?

Now try: Its little-known neighbour, the Axarquia. Just 45 minutes from Malaga airport, the region is as rugged and scenic, with better accommodation. The Axarquia (pronounced Ass-ar-kia) is a wonderful touring and hiking spot, particularly in winter, when it regularly hits 20C in the daytime.

What else? Pick of the bunch: The sweet Pedro Ximenez grape, first planted by the Phoenicians in 2000BC, grows here. Most popular in Elizabethan times, when it was known as Malaga-sack, this sweet, toffee-like drink is great.

Hospederia Retamar (Rio Gordo Malaga; 00 34 952031225), near Riogordo, sits in one of the wildest, most beautiful spots in Andalucia, double rooms from E67 (£48) to E80 (£57).


Tired of: The Picasso Museum in Barcelona, and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao?

Now try: The new art and science park in Valencia. This collection of astounding buildings bring a modern beauty to this historic city, rising out of man-made lakes in a ribbon of futuristic concrete and glass structures.

The award-winning L'Hemisferic - which is like a huge shell - is a hands-on science museum. The most recent attractions to open are an eyeshaped IMAX cinema and Europe's largest aquarium, L'Oceanografic.

What else? Valencia is home of the paella, so head to a restaurant called Riff for something experimental to go along with the science. Ad Hoc Valencia (Calle Boix 4, Valencia ; 00 34 963 919 140) has style and simplicity at reasonable prices. Double rooms from E80 (£57) a night.


Tired of: The day trip to Andalucia's Ronda and Mijas?

Now try: The Roman city of Antequera. Just half an hour inland on the main motorway to Granada, this small town sits on the lee side of the rugged Serrania de Ronda.

What else? With an ancient centre that tumbles down a hillside, Antequera is a pleasant place to stroll around and take a spot of lunch or afternoon tea.

Should you wish to stay a night, the recently opened Casa del Conde de Pinofiel (Calle La Tercia 10, 2900 Antequera; 00 34 952 842 464), built in 1762, is a charming bet. Double rooms from E90 (£65) a night.


Tired of: Lonely Planet and Michelin?

Now try: The new online version of Alastair Sawday's Special Places To Stay. Long the definitive voice on French B&B, Sawday started his guide on special places to stay in Spain a few years ago. It has become a necessary companion for anyone seeking inspiring and individual hostelries in the Iberian Peninsula.


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