Jump to content


T.C. Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


DonShockley last won the day on June 15

DonShockley had the most liked content!

1 Follower

About DonShockley

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Region
    U.S. Southern Plains
  • My. T.C.'s Year

Recent Profile Visitors

3,117 profile views
  1. I*'m just guessing here, but lots of the optional items and even routine things like door locks and window switches rely on individual modules scattered around the car to accomplish those tasks. You would think they would just have a master wiring harness and you could just attach the needed modules, sensors, etc. to get the features you want. But it appears that's not how they build them. If it's not a factory feature on your individual vehicle, they leave all the wires and interconnections out entirely. They probably save a whole $50 in parts cost doing it that way. Replacing sensors if all the underlying hardware and connections are in place is easy. Adding all the extra wiring, connectors, and modules on a fully built vehicle can be nearly impossible. Here's the section from the wiring manual on my 2015 where you can see all the stuff that's needed in between the bumper sensors and the speaker to make it all work. Plus there's ususally some software changes needed to control it all too.
  2. DonShockley

    Need help with my transit

    The thing that's really frustrating about these types of searches is how absolutely useless all the info the manufacturer puts on the part really is when you want to find one. I run into the same problem at work all the time. You would think the very specific info printed right into the plastic "Kabelschlepp 53226" would be loads of help. But that got me only as far as a mention on the apparent US division of the supplier, but without the part number. And even that was only reachable through Google search. A search on the company's site by name or number comes up totally empty, even though the page exists. https://www.ustsubaki.com/cable-hose-carriers.html
  3. DonShockley

    Need help with my transit

    I think I found it, you would need to double check to see if part number is different depending on which side is damaged. But it looks like the cable trak (which seems to be the more generic term and spellling) probably is the same and just flips over. The end connectors are likely side dependent looking at the ones on my 2015 TC. BTW: I found it by scrolling through different areas, but it looks like the search term needed was "Shield" since that's the title on the part landing page. Here's the info I got: Ford Part #14A099B Cover - Wiring https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/other-electrical-related-parts/shield-6592745-1
  4. DonShockley

    fueling auto stop going off prematurely

    That was my first thought too. The little double door setup for the capless fuel filler can sometimes be a bit of a pain if the nozzle has a bend too close to the end. Occassionally a straight-in insertion through the first door causes the end of the nozzle to only partially open the second little flapper because the curve of the nozzle wants to force the end of the nozzle to move towards the edge of the opening and it catches instead of moving smoothly through the second opening. When this happens, the auto shutoof seems to trip almost immediately when trying to start fuelling. But a slight tipping of the nozzle to clear it from catching the edge of the second opening and it usually goes in just a bit more and now that the second flapper is fully open it fuels fine and shuts off normally once the tank nears full.
  5. DonShockley

    Again, remove 3rd row

    You could always just get a generic kit for Weather Pack connectors and replace both ends instead of trying to match one side of the existing OEM connector. I didn't get this particular kit but built something similar piecemeal over time as I was doing other projects by ordering a couple extras each time. https://www.amazon.com/Weather-Pack-Connector-WP-405-Special/dp/B005BH1HT0/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=auto+wp+connector+kit&qid=1559082360&s=industrial&sr=1-2-catcorr For just a quick single job with just 2-pole connectors, you can get a pack of 10 sets with terminals and seals for $10 https://www.amazon.com/MUYI-Waterproof-Electrical-Connector-Terminals/dp/B01FP1HXHQ/ref=pd_sbs_263_1/136-8593096-5025566?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01FP1HXHQ&pd_rd_r=a1f54031-8197-11e9-b4c5-ef907af3647f&pd_rd_w=lGcae&pd_rd_wg=DIufg&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=6DZD3CJS1DKAN8M5ZBJH&psc=1&refRID=6DZD3CJS1DKAN8M5ZBJH
  6. DonShockley

    voice command not "hearing" me

    Looks like it's a very cheap dealer installed alarm system. Seems to be for salesman convenience. https://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2016/08/never-buy-car-alarm-dealership/ If I ever see a piece of junk that poorly installed on a new vehicle from a dealer I'm pitching a fit. I may choose to do something like that after it's mine, but I'm an amateur working on my own stuff. A supposed expert dealer doing it so poorly to every brand new vehicle like the article mentions would make me run as fast as I could to a different dealer. Reading how they are used I would be wondering if it's still set up with the equivalvent of a master key. After all, if the dealer didn't remember to explain what it was then did he remember to change it from the master dealer module to the individual customer module.
  7. As for support, obviously my large plywood sheet is anchored and supported at the rear 2/3 by the existing floor and reuses the existing seat mount bolting locations. The front 1/3 is supported with a 2x4 across the front and some extra legs that sit nicely on the little flat areas at the base of the B pillars behind the front seats. There is also a little support in the middle, between the two bins, that sits loose on the floor and is extra insurance if a really heavy load gets set in the area.
  8. As for the underfloor storage, I just found some bins at Walmart that worked for me. They just slide in from the side and let me use almost all the volume. It's also a great spot to store the crossbars for the factory roof rails since I never use them.
  9. Here's how I converted my wagon to a van layout. Removed second and third rows, removed center bracket for second row, added plywood to span from back of first row all the way to the tailgate, and topped it with rubber matting so things don't slide as much. https://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/4109-converted-2015-lwb-wagon-into-a-van/ Most of the photo thumbnails aren't showing now, likely due to the forum changes over the years. But if you click on the markers they still take you to the photos. If you scroll down about halfway through page 1, you'll find download links to some pdf files with dimensions of the cutouts in the plywood for an exact fit. If you just want to skim through the photos, here's the link to the album. https://fordtransitconnectforum.com/gallery/album/160-2015-tc-lwb-wagon-modifications/
  10. I swore I put links in earlier? Maybe they went dead once the eBay listing got old enough and were removed. The Valeo aftermarket part numbers are: Left #45254 Right #45255 Here's the current listings from the same seller, Start245: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Upper-Tail-Light-Rear-Lamp-VALEO-Fits-Left-FORD-Tourneo-Transit-Wagon-2013-/173527049394?hash=item286704a4b2 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Upper-Tail-Light-Rear-Lamp-VALEO-Fits-Right-FORD-Tourneo-Transit-Wagon-2013-/153174924030?hash=item23a9efdafe
  11. DonShockley

    remove interior wheel well covers

    Actually it's the other way around. The chicken tax does not apply to passenger vehicles but does apply to work vehicles. So they all start as wagons and get converted to vans by removing the seats and windows, not installing them. Here's a good summary of how and why: https://www.chicagotribune.com/business/ct-biz-ford-tariff-chicken-tax-20180709-story.html
  12. DonShockley

    Removing Factory Roof Rails?

    There are bolts that penetrate the roof and have to be removed from the inside.
  13. DonShockley

    Power sliding door and power lift gate?

    On my TC key fob that button only triggers the unlock on the liftgate. If the other doors are locked then they stay locked.
  14. DonShockley

    Power sliding door and power lift gate?

    I wonder if there would be a way to make that kit trigger opening when the liftgate unlock button on the existing factory key is used.
  15. DonShockley

    remove interior wheel well covers

    Here's some pix from when I added power to my overhead console. I took the pics to show the routing on the power supply wiring I added, the red/yellow/orange bundle, so the other stuff isn't really shown well but you can see what's under there. My TC is a 2015 wagon. If yours is a van, then it won't have all the AC ductwork or the seatbelt winders. The trailer tow module above and to the left of the fuse box was an after purchase Ford accessory addition. And this is just on the passenger side where the Aux fuse box is located. The drivers side where the jack is located likely has much less wiring in the same areas.