In the 14th century when the first fiery spirit was distilled from a starchy plant, Russia laid claim as the birthplace of vodka. Before long, the secret of vodka distillation crept into Finland and Poland, where distillers claimed they invented the drink. For centuries, vodka remained a rustic artisan spirit indigenous to that part of Europe.

Then, in the late 20th century, interest in vodka spread like wildfire, a trend that has not slowed down. Your local supermarket -- not to mention your wine and spirits merchant -- likely offers vodkas from Sweden, France, the Netherlands, Italy, Denmark, Poland, Russia, England, Scotland, Ireland and, of course, the United States. And there's more to come.

In October 2002, Beverage Industry magazine in its yearly review reported that vodka sales shot up 9.3 percent the previous year for $619.5 million in receipts. Domestic distilled vodka, with Smirnoff as the leader, accounted for most sales, although imported vodkas showed a healthy increase of 10.6 percent.

Prior to the mid-20th century, vodka was a coarse spirit, often with a high burn in the finish. Today, thanks to refined distillation in continuous column stills or single-batch pot stills, followed by a pass through charcoal filtration, vodka is squeaky clean, colorless and smooth, an ideal medium for mixing and an excellent base for flavorings, or infusions. The price range for a 750-ml bottle of vodka, domestic or imported, is $10 to $35, although a few rare bottles are more expensive.

Smoothness is critical to the taste and marketing of vodka. Most vodka is made in a column still, a process that yields high-proof alcohol in one continuous stream. A few distillers use pot stills similar to those used to make Cognac. Some distill vodka up to five times to boost smoothness. Although it is legal, many consider the addition of sugar, glycerin or citric acid to be highly suspect.

San Francisco's Cannery Wine Cellars carries 65 regular and flavored vodkas. "It's a major category for us and more are coming in all the time," says wine buyer Frank Melis. St. Helena's Charbay ($36), a small-batch vodka distilled in Mendocino, is a big seller at the Cannery, as is Hangar One ($36),

a collaboration between specialty spirits producer St. George Spirits of Alameda and Mendocino brandy producer Germain-Robin. "But our biggest selling vodka is Jewel of Russia, a four-product line that includes two fruit-flavored vodkas and a super high-end vodka that sells for $75."

Melis says the average price for a bottle of top-end vodka is $27, but he has no problem selling expensive vodkas, even at $75 a bottle.

Hangar One, made from Viognier grapes, not grains, is also a hot item at Bix restaurant in San Francisco, one of the city's most popular watering spots.

General Manager Will Sanders says Bix stocks about 30 different vodkas and mixes up a lot of martinis. "Our vodka martini, made with Luksusowa Polish Potato Vodka, is a popular call," he says. Bix also sells a lot of high-end vodkas, like Ketel One, Grey Goose, Hangar One and Charbay, straight up. Sanders says the price of a shot of vodka at Bix ranges from $7 to $10 for a standard 11/2-ounce pour.

While the least expensive vodkas, those used in the bar well for most mixed drinks and cocktails, are made from inexpensive grains like corn and sorghum, top-end vodkas are usually made from a single starch source such as potatoes, wheat or barley. Potato vodkas are often more textural, with a distinct sweetness; grain vodkas are generally lighter and more neutral in flavor, sometimes with a slight grainy sweetness and a touch of charcoal from the filtering process.

In a tasting of 22 vodkas -- only a few of the many available in the Bay Area -- the most interesting turned out to be those distilled from something other than grains. Glacier Potato Vodka from Idaho ($21) is perfumed with a smooth sweet taste and medium burn. Blue Ice Potato Vodka, also from Idaho ($18), is similar, but with intriguing earthy/floral accents. Luksusowa Potato Vodka from Poland ($15) is lighter but with a lingering sweetness.

Other potato vodkas worth a try are Spudka (Oregon), Pearl (Canada) and Chopin (Poland). Potato vodkas taste good straight up.

Another small category of new vodkas uses grapes instead of grains, yielding a lovely fruit-forward style that's great for sipping. Hangar One Vodka (Alameda, $36), distilled from Viognier grapes, is smooth and creamy with a floral-citrus character and a light burn. Ciroc Vodka (France, $31) is also made from grapes and is fruity with orange, spice and anise notes. Due ($24) from Italy uses Merlot or Chardonnay in its vodka, and the former has a scent of fermenting apples with exotic spices.

Some distillers believe that wheat makes the smoothest vodka, yielding a milder spirit. Shakers Vodka ($33), distilled in Napa with Minnesota wheat, has a subtle grainy nose, a warm toasty note and soft medium fruit and grain flavors. VOX Vodka ($34) from the Netherlands is a creamy, lightly sweet spirit with floral and vanilla accents. Both vodkas claim to be distilled five times.

Similar in style, although distilled from barley in a pot still, is St. Helena's Charbay Vodka ($36), a smooth spirit with a perfumed floral nose, a soft slightly sweet taste with anise notes and a smooth finish.

Other vodkas worth a try include Extreme Vodka (Tennessee, $14), Jazz Vodka (Poland, $20), Boru (Ireland, $26), Cittadelle Vodka (France, $26), Grey Goose Vodka (France, $29), Ketel One (Netherlands, $23), Belvedere Vodka (Poland, $38), and Brilliant (Scotland, $27).

The Vodka Martini

The following is from Bix restaurant.


21/2 ounces Luksusowa Polish Potato Vodka

1/2 ounce Martini and Rossi Dry Vermouth

Pimento stuffed olives for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS: Shake vigorously in a silver cocktail shaker and strain into a well-chilled 51/2-ounce cocktail glass. Garnish with vermouth-soaked pimento stuffed olives.

PER SERVING: 210 calories, 0 protein, 1 g carbohydrates, 0 fat, 0 cholesterol, 1 mg sodium, 0 fiber.

Foxy Lady

This recipe is from VOX Vodka.


1 part VOX Vodka

1 part DeKuyper Pucker

Watermelon Schnapps

part DeKuyper Orange


Splash of 7-Up

Lemon twist for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS: Shake and strain, serve in a Martini glass.

Garnish with a lemon twist.

PER SERVING: calories, g protein, g carbohydrates, g fat ( g saturated), mg cholesterol, mg sodium, g fiber.