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Serves 4 for a good breakfast 8 breakfast sausages from a good butcher – I like Lincolnshire, but pork and leek would be great too 150g (5½oz) morcilla or soft black pudding, skin removed 40g (3 Tbsp) unsalted butter 2 thick slices good-quality white bread 4 free-range eggs 8–12 slices thick-cut smoked pancetta or smoked streaky bacon olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper Chorizo ketchup, to serve Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place the sausages and morcilla directly on the grill in the direct heat zone and cook for 2 minutes on each side to brown. Transfer to the indirect heat zone, close the lid and cook for 6–7 minutes or until the sausages and morcilla are cooked through. Move the sausages to the side of the indirect heat zone to keep warm. Transfer the morcilla to a bowl and mash into a rough paste, then keep warm. Place an ovenproof non-stick frying pan in the direct heat zone and add a lug of olive oil and the butter. When the butter is foaming, lay the slices of bread in the pan and brown on both sides. Remove the fried bread from the pan and place in the indirect heat zone to keep warm. Crack the eggs into the frying pan and cook steadily until the whites are set but the yolks are still runny – you may need to move the pan into the indirect heat zone to stop the whites from cooking too quickly. Season the eggs with salt and pepper.
While the eggs are cooking, grill the pancetta in the direct cooking zone for 2–3 minutes on each side until cooked and browned. Spread the morcilla between the two slices of fried bread and cut the sandwich into quarters. Serve on warm plates, with the chorizo ketchup on the side.> Smoky eggs with asparagus and sweet shallots on sourdough> > Eggs carry smoke wonderfully well. Here they're par-boiled, then set on the barbecue with some wood chips to boost the smokiness, and matched with seasonal asparagus (for me, a highlight of the culinary calendar) – a classic combination. Slowly grilling the asparagus concentrates the natural sugars and intensifies the flavours. Serves 4 You'll also need a muffin pan with at least four 10cm (4in) diameter holes and some apple or maple wood chips 4 large free-range eggs 50g (3½ Tbsp) unsalted butter 2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil 8 banana shallots, very finely sliced 30ml (2 Tbsp) white balsamic or muscatel vinegar about 12 spears of asparagus, ends and any woody parts of stalks removed
4 slices sourdough bread olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. On the stovetop, soft-boil the eggs and then immediately transfer into ice-cold water to arrest the cooking process. Place a small saucepan over medium heat on the stovetop and add the butter, olive oil and shallots. When the butter starts to bubble, turn the heat down to low and cook the shallots very gently for about an hour or until very tender and lightly caramelized. Season to taste, then add the vinegar and keep warm. Carefully peel the eggs and place one in each hole of the muffin pan. Place the muffin pan in the indirect heat zone, then sprinkle a good handful of wood chips directly onto the coals. Close the lid and vent of the barbecue and leave the eggs to smoke for 3 minutes. Open the lid, carefully turn the eggs and add another handful of wood chips, then close the lid again and cook for another 3 minutes. Lift the lid to check the eggs – they should have smoked to a brown-orange hue. Move them to the indirect heat zone to keep warm.
Toss the asparagus in olive oil and season well. Place on the grill in the direct heat zone and cook for 2–3 minutes on each side until just tender and lightly charred. Transfer to the indirect heat zone, then grill the bread slices in the direct heat zone until lightly browned. Spoon the caramelized shallots onto the grilled bread, then top with the asparagus and a smoked egg. Just before serving, break each egg gently with a fork and season with a little salt and pepper. > Grilled buttermilk and chestnut pancakes with pancetta and honey> > This American brunch classic has been given an unusual and delicious twist with the addition of a little chestnut flour, sliced fresh chestnuts and chestnut honey. I like to cook the pancakes first and then quickly grill them over the charcoal before topping with some smoky grilled pancetta. If you're feeling naughty, you could make this super-deluxe with the addition of fresh blueberries and some thick organic yogurt or clotted cream. Serves 4 (makes 4 large pancakes)
12 slices medium-cut smoked pancetta or smoked streaky bacon 2 Tbsp chestnut or blossom honey 2 fresh chestnuts, roasted, peeled and roughly chopped – optional For the pancake batter 100g (¾ cup) plain (all-purpose) flour, sifted 25g (3 Tbsp) chestnut flour, sifted 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) 1 tsp fine salt 50g (3½ Tbsp) unsalted butter, melted 250ml (1 cup) buttermilk First make the pancake batter. Stir together the flours, bicarbonate of soda and salt, then add the melted butter. Lightly whisk in the buttermilk, leaving the batter slightly lumpy. Set aside to rest for 20 minutes before cooking. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place a medium non-stick frying pan in the direct heat zone and, when it is hot, add a ladleful of the pancake batter – it will be quite thick, so you'll need to spread the batter around the pan with a spoon or spatula. Cook for 2 minutes until set, then turn and cook for 2 minutes on the other side. Transfer the cooked pancake to the indirect heat zone to keep warm while you make the rest.
Once you've made all the pancakes, place them on the grill in the direct heat zone for 1 minute on each side. Grill the pancetta slices on both sides until cooked through and a little crispy. Serve the pancakes with the pancetta on top, finishing with a good drizzle of honey and the fresh chestnuts, if you're using them.> Grilled mackerel with fennel, yogurt and sumac salad> > A perfect summer brunch inspired by the flavours of the Levant. Shaved fennel makes for an interesting salad, and the sumac brings a wonderful zesty citrus hit to it all. Check that your mackerel is spanking fresh before you buy – it should be plump, firm and bright, its skin almost effervescent. The fresher the fish, the better it will grill. Serves 4 2 small mackerel, pin bones removed olive oil, for cooking sea salt and pepper For the fennel, yogurt and sumac salad 2 tsp fennel seeds 1 large fennel bulb, core removed, very thinly sliced – ideally using a mandoline 1 /3 cucumber, finely sliced 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
juice of ½ lemon 2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil 3½ Tbsp Greek yogurt 1 tsp sumac Light the barbecue and set for direct cooking. Like sardines, the skin on mackerel is quite delicate, so make sure your grill is clean and hot to help avoid sticking. Rub the mackerel with olive oil and season with salt and pepper, then place on the grill in the direct heat zone. Cook for 4 minutes on each side, or until the skin is crispy and charred and the flesh is starting to become opaque. Mackerel benefits from being left a little pink in the middle. Rest the fish for 2 minutes before serving. For the salad, toast the fennel seeds in a dry frying pan over a medium heat on the stovetop. Toss the pan as they toast, and remove the pan from the heat when they lightly colour and become aromatic. Put the fennel, cucumber, fennel seeds and chilli in a bowl. Season well and then squeeze over the lemon juice, pour in the olive oil and mix well. In a small bowl, mix the yogurt with the sumac and season with salt and pepper, then add 2 teaspoons of water to thin the yogurt to a dressing consistency.
Place the salad on plates, top with the grilled mackerel and spoon the dressing over and around.> Smoky grilled watermelon with burrata, balsamic and basil> > Grilling watermelon over charcoal works surprisingly well. The secret is to get the surface as dry as possible, and this is easily achieved by refrigerating the sliced watermelon, uncovered, for 30–40 minutes. Creamy burrata (cream-filled fresh mozzarella) and some balsamic dressing make this a super-refreshing, healthy dish for the summer months. Serves 4 ½ small watermelon, skin and white pith removed 60ml (4 Tbsp) extra virgin olive oil 20ml (4 tsp) balsamic vinegar 4 burrata, at room temperature ½ bunch basil, leaves picked and roughly torn sea salt and black pepper Light the barbecue and set for direct cooking. Cut the watermelon into 4 chunky slices about 2cm (¾in) thick and pat dry with paper towel (the watermelon needs to be sliced this thick to get good caramelization on the grill). Place in the fridge for 30–40 minutes to dry further before grilling.
Place the watermelon slices on the grill in the direct heat zone and cook for 5–6 minutes without turning – you should get a really good, deep colour as the natural sugars caramelize. Turn and cook for 3–4 minutes on the other side, then transfer to a serving plate. Whisk together the olive oil and balsamic vinegar to make a dressing, then spoon this over the watermelon slices. Serve with the burrata. Season well with salt and pepper, and finish with a scattering of fresh basil. > Potato and honey flatbreads with smoked butter and thyme> > Our brilliant bakers, Seven Seeded, originally created this flatbread-style recipe for us when we opened Ember Yard, but this version has been tweaked slightly for home baking. Served melting on the bread as it arrives at the table, the smoked butter has become an Ember Yard classic.> > You'll need to start the pre-ferment the day before. And if you've got leftover roast potatoes from Sunday lunch to add to the dough, so much the better. Makes 12 flatbreads
You'll also need a lump of oak or apple wood, if you want an extra-smoky flavour 500g (3 2/3 cups) white bread flour 1 tsp dried yeast 3 tsp fine salt 125g (4½oz) roast potatoes, crushed 325ml (3 1/3 cups) lukewarm water 1½ Tbsp runny blossom honey semolina flour and sea salt, for sprinkling 100g (3½oz)Smoked butter, thyme leaves and sea salt, to serve For the pre-ferment 50g ( 1/3 cup) white bread flour 50 ml (3½ Tbsp) lukewarm water ¾ tsp dried yeast Mix the pre-ferment ingredients together in a bowl, cover and leave at room temperature overnight. Transfer the pre-ferment to the bowl of a mixer fitted with a dough hook (or a large bowl if making by hand) and add all the remaining ingredients except the semolina flour and sea salt. Start off slowly to bring everything together, then speed up and keep going until everything is fully incorporated. The dough will be very sticky. Place the dough in a clean bowl and leave in a warm place to prove for an hour or until doubled in size. Knock back the dough, kneading it for 2–3 minutes before returning it to the bowl to prove for another hour.
Remove the dough and divide it in half, then divide each half into 6 balls. Place on a board or tray lined with greaseproof paper and leave at room temperature for 30 minutes. Flatten the balls and shape into flatbreads about 1.5cm (5/8 in) thick, then sprinkle with semolina flour and sea salt. Leave the breads to rest at room temperature for another 30 minutes before cooking. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. For an extra-smoky flavour, place a lump of wood at the edge of the fire. Carefully place the flatbreads, 2 or 3 at a time, in the indirect heat zone and close the lid of the barbecue, leaving the vent open. Cook the breads for 6–7 minutes (the temperature inside the barbecue should be about 180°C/350°F), then turn over and cook for a further 4–5 minutes. When they are ready, the breads should be cooked through, crusty and brown. Serve immediately with smoked butter, thyme and sea salt.> Grilled sardines on toast with tomatoes and basil> > This recipe was inspired by summer jaunts to Spain, and enjoying the simple but sublime _pan con tomate_ – bread rubbed with sweet tomatoes. I thought why not add another favourite of mine: smoky, crisp-skinned sardines? They work well together as the tomatoes and basil add a lovely freshness and acidity to the oily fish. I like to serve this with some homemade Alioli on the side.
Serves 4 4 thick slices sourdough bread 2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed 2 very ripe, sweet vine or plum tomatoes, cut in half 2 firm plum tomatoes, cut into thick slices 8 very fresh sardines, butterflied, or 16 sardine fillets juice of ½ lemon ½ bunch basil, leaves picked and torn olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Drizzle the bread with olive oil and grill on both sides in the direct heat zone until nicely charred. Remove and immediately rub with the crushed garlic cloves and then the halved tomatoes, cut-side down – the idea is to load the bread with the tomato juices and flavour, so a great-tasting tomato is paramount! Place in the indirect heat zone to keep warm. Season the sliced tomatoes and drizzle with a little oil, then grill in the direct heat zone for a couple of minutes on each side until softened and lightly charred. Move them to the indirect heat zone to keep warm. Before cooking the sardines, ensure the grill is very clean. Sardine skin is notorious for sticking, so a clean, very hot grill is crucial. Lightly oil the fish, then season and carefully place on the grill, skin-side down. Cook for 2 minutes to char the skin, then carefully turn the fish and finish cooking for a minute on the flesh side. Squeeze over some lemon juice and remove from the grill.
Place the sliced tomatoes on the grilled tomato bread and top with the sardines, finishing with the torn basil leaves.> Morcilla, apple and potato pancakes> > Morcilla is the Spanish version of black pudding. Much softer and creamier, and loaded with smoked paprika, it makes the perfect foil for sharp-sweet apples. Ensure you have a sturdy non-stick frying pan for this, so you can cook and flip the pancakes without any fuss. For something more substantial, add a fried or smoked egg and some grilled pancetta, or freshen things up with a tangle of peppery watercress dressed with a sharp vinaigrette. Serves 4 about 100g (½ cup) coarse salt 4 medium Desiree potatoes 2 tsp unsalted butter 1 small onion, finely sliced 1 Granny Smith apple, cored, peeled and finely sliced 1 tsp thyme leaves 200g (7oz) morcilla or soft black pudding, skin removed 1 tsp red wine vinegar sea salt and black pepper olive oil, for cooking Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Scatter a thin layer of salt onto a baking sheet, place the potatoes on top and bake for 1 hour or until the potatoes are soft and tender. Leave to cool before scooping out the flesh into a bowl and discarding the skins.
Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place a sauté pan over medium heat on the stovetop. Add the butter, onion, apple and thyme and cook, without colouring, for 3–4 minutes until softened. Transfer to the bowl with the potato flesh, then add the morcilla. Season with the vinegar and some salt and pepper, then mix well and shape into 4 large potato cakes. Chill in the fridge for 20–30 minutes to firm up. Sit an ovenproof non-stick frying pan on the grill in the direct heat zone of the barbecue and add a lug of olive oil. Carefully place the potato cakes in the pan and fry for 2 minutes on each side to create a crust before moving the pan to the indirect heat zone and closing the lid of the barbecue. Leave to cook for 4–5 minutes until the potato cakes are cooked through and piping-hot. Serve immediately.> Fennel and pork sausages with cannellini beans> > This is a real hearty breakfast for the cooler months and is inspired by the gutsy, no-holds-barred cooking of Tuscany. You could use any sausage you like here, but pork and fennel is quite an authentic choice and works really well with the rich, tomato-y beans. Grilling the sausages first and then finishing their cooking in the beans not only keeps the sausages plump and moist, but also lets the porky-fennel-infused juices meld with the sauce to create a sublime pot of goodness.
Serves 4 150g (¾ cup) dried cannellini beans, soaked overnight and drained, or 400g (3 cups) cooked cannellini beans, rinsed and drained 1 small onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 50g (1¾oz) smoked pancetta, diced 1 tsp fennel seeds 2 bay leaves 1 x 400g (14½oz) can chopped tomatoes 8 large good-quality pork and fennel sausages 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked and finely chopped olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper crusty bread, to serve If you are using dried beans, place them in a medium saucepan, cover with fresh water and bring slowly to the boil. Turn down to a simmer and cook for 1–1½ hours until the beans are soft and tender, then drain. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place a large ovenproof saucepan over the indirect heat zone, add a lug of olive oil and cook the onion and garlic for a couple of minutes to soften. Add the pancetta, fennel seeds and bay leaves and cook for 2 minutes, then tip the beans into the pan, along with the tomatoes. Season well and bring to a simmer.
Meanwhile, place the sausages on the grill in the direct heat zone and cook until nicely browned all over. Transfer the sausages to the pan of beans and tomatoes, then cover and move it right to the edge of the indirect heat zone and close the lid of the barbecue. Cook slowly for 10–15 minutes until the sausages are cooked through and the tomatoes have reduced to a thick, rich consistency. If the tomatoes seem to be reducing too quickly, just add a little water. Stir in the parsley, check the seasoning and serve with some crusty bread.> Flatbreads with anchovy, garlic and rosemary pesto> > Brilliant on their own or as part of a feast, these flatbreads couldn't be easier to make. The anchovy isn't overpowering here – it just adds a lovely, intense seasoning. Experiment with different herbs and cheeses once you get going. Makes 12 small flatbreads 350g (2 2/3 cups) self-raising flour 1 tsp baking powder 350g (1½ cups) natural live yogurt 1 tsp fine salt For the anchovy, garlic and rosemary pesto
8 salted anchovies 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 bunch very fresh rosemary, leaves picked and stalks reserved 40g (½ cup) grated aged pecorino 3 tsp red wine vinegar 100ml (generous 1/3 cup) extra virgin olive oil Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Mix the flour, baking powder, yogurt and salt in a bowl until incorporated and then turn out onto a floured surface. Knead the dough for a further 2 minutes, then cover with a plate or cling film and leave for 10 minutes. To make the pesto, blend all the ingredients to a rough paste in a food processor. Uncover the dough and divide it in half, then divide each half into 6 balls. Flatten each ball and shape into a rustic flatbread about 12cm (4¾in) in diameter. Score each flatbread a few times with a sharp knife. Place the rosemary stalks onto the hot coals, then place the flatbreads, 2 or 3 at time, on a hot clean grill in the direct heat zone. Cook for 2 minutes each side until lightly browned and cooked through. Spoon over the pesto and serve immediately.> Granola with grilled black figs and vanilla-infused buttermilk> > You can't beat the freshness and texture of homemade granola, and this combination makes for a delicious all-in-one breakfast. It's best to cook it on the barbecue when the charcoal is low and slow, either after a cooking session or as the barbecue is just getting going, but you could also toast it in the oven. Make a large batch and store it for up to 10 days in a jar.> > I like to serve it trifle-style in a glass, with a layer of sticky, grilled figs, then the granola and finally the sweetened, vanilla-infused buttermilk. My wife, Nykeeta, has been honing this granola recipe for over a year and so I really should credit her for it!
Serves 4 100g (1 cup) jumbo rolled oats 30g (¼ cup) macadamia nuts, roughly chopped 30g ( 1/3 cup) pecan nuts, roughly chopped 30g (¼ cup) whole hazelnuts 60g ( 1/3 cup) dried dates, stones removed 4 Tbsp honey ½ tsp mixed spice ½ tsp ground cinnamon grated zest of ½ orange 2 Tbsp olive oil 4 ripe black figs, cut in half lengthwise 120ml (½ cup) buttermilk seeds from ½ vanilla pod (bean) Combine the oats and nuts in a large heatproof bowl. Place the dates, half the honey, the spices and orange zest in a small saucepan and add about a 2cm (¾in) depth of water. Bring to the boil on the stovetop, then simmer for about 12 minutes until the water has reduced by half and the dates are very soft. Blend to a purée with a stick blender or food processor, then add to the oats and nuts, along with the oil. Stir until everything is well coated. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. If you're using the barbecue for the granola, you'll need to check the temperature using a probe thermometer or the gauge on the barbecue: you want an internal temperature of about 140–150°C (285–300°F); this will be reached soon after lighting, or while cooling down after cooking. Spread out the oat and nut mixture on a baking sheet and place in the indirect heat zone, then close the lid of the barbecue. Cook for 30 minutes until the granola is dried and golden brown, checking regularly to make sure the nuts don't burn.
If using the oven, preheat it to 175°C (350°F/gas mark 4). Spread out the out and nut mixture on a baking sheet and toast in the oven for 10–15 minutes until golden brown, then reduce the temperature to 110°C (225°F/gas mark ¼) and cook for another 25–30 minutes or until the granola is dried and crispy. Leave the granola to cool before serving or storing. To cook the figs, lay them, cut-side down, on the grill in the direct heat zone and cook for 3 minutes before turning and cooking for a further 2 minutes. When they are done, the figs should be lightly charred, soft and jammy. Mix together the buttermilk with the vanilla seeds and the remaining honey. To serve, you'll need four glasses, small Kilner-style jars or bowls. Cut each fig half into 3 or 4 pieces and divide between the glasses. Add some of the granola and finish with a spoonful of the buttermilk.> Slow-cooked blackberries with Turkish pide and creamed sheep's cheese> > This recipe is inspired by the beautiful breakfasts served in Turkey. Pide is one of my favourite breads to make and eat, as it is light, tasty and cooks very quickly. The creamed sheep's cheese is a revelation; just make sure it's the mildest one you can find (not salty or brined), or use a light goat's curd instead.
Serves 4–6 500g (3¾ cups) blackberries 150g (¾ cup) caster (superfine) sugar 2 tsp lemon juice 150g ( 2/3 cup) very mild, soft sheep's cheese 150ml ( 2/3 cup) double (heavy) cream 200ml (¾ cup) runny honey For the pide (makes 8) 500g (3 2/3 cups) white bread flour, sifted 1 x 7g sachet (2¼ tsp) dried yeast 1 tsp caster (superfine) sugar 2 tsp fine salt 280ml (scant 1¼ cups) lukewarm water 50ml (3½ Tbsp) natural yogurt, plus extra for brushing the breads 2 Tbsp olive oil Put the blackberries, sugar and lemon juice in a non-reactive saucepan over low heat and cook slowly for about 1 hour until the blackberries have reduced down to a rich, jammy consistency. Remove from the heat and leave to cool. Whisk together the cheese and cream until smooth. Spoon into a serving bowl and drizzle over the honey, then leave at room temperature to macerate for an hour before serving. For the pide, combine the flour, yeast, sugar and salt in a bowl. Mix in the water, yogurt and olive oil to make a dough. Cover and leave in a warm place for 1 hour, or until doubled in size.
Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Line 2 or 3 baking sheets with baking paper and dust lightly with flour. Turn out the dough onto a floured surface, knock it back and then divide into 8. Transfer to the prepared baking sheets and press out to make thin flatbreads roughly 20cm (8in) in diameter. Leave to rest for about 20 minutes before using your fingers to make indentations in the dough (don't press all the way through!). Lightly brush the breads with yogurt, then carefully transfer the flatbreads to a grill in the direct heat zone. Cook for 2 minutes on each side, or until cooked through and nicely browned. Serve hot with the slow-cooked blackberries and honey-macerated cheese. > Believe it or not, small-plate dining (or _tapas_ , to use the Spanish term) isn't a new invention. You could be forgiven for thinking otherwise, given the recent explosion of restaurants, bars, pubs and books focusing on the concept. So great is the over-exposure that apparently the foodie public and elite gastro-journalists alike are at risk of 'small-plate fatigue' (yes, this term has actually been coined, but I forget by whom), and it often feels as if the whole small-plates-to-share idea is on the cusp of implosion. This reaction has in part been prompted by some ill-conceived efforts: over-complicated and clashing flavours or over-worked dishes that go against the principles of small-plate dining. Dishes should work together in harmony and complement each other, acting as foils to one another and basically making for a delicious experience.
Of course, people all over the world have been eating like this for centuries, and doing it bloody well; the only 'backlash' is in the UK, and more specifically in London, where the culture isn't ingrained. Across much of Asia, including India, Thailand and China, the traditional way of eating is to enjoy many different dishes at the same time: waves of hot and spicy dishes, cooled by fresh salads and sauces, and balanced by rice, noodles and breads. Middle Eastern _mezze_ is a perfect example of how a series of simple, well-executed dishes can make a banquet – grilled meat and chicken, flatbreads, pulses, grains and marinated vegetables – all taking into account not only flavours, but also the importance of textures and temperatures, with some dishes served chilled, others warm or piping-hot. And Italy has always had its _antipasti_ and _cicchetti_ , and, of course, Spain its wonderful _tapas_. The Spanish _tapas_ tradition traces its origins to the pieces of rough, cured ham and dry bread that were used to cover glasses of sweet sherry when not being drunk, to protect the contents from annoying, sugar-loving flies. Eventually, these glass-protectors became bite-sized, salty bar snacks that encouraged lingering... and more drinking. Bar patrons knew they were on to a good thing, and so _tapas_ was born. Over the years, the concept has been developed and refined to the point where _tapas_ today range from simple salted _padrón_ peppers, nuts or olives to salads, grilled fish and meats, slow-cooked braises and crisp-fried croquettes.
We've now been preparing, cooking and serving our own style of _tapas_ for over ten years at Salt Yard, and more recently at Dehesa, Opera Tavern and Ember Yard. A direct result of experiencing traditional _tapas_ in Spain (and in New York's tapas-style restaurants), this grew from the realization that, done correctly, this is the most wonderful way to eat, creating an informal, relaxed and exciting dining experience – something too many restaurants lack. We take Spanish and Italian flavours, cooking techniques and ingredients and put our own spin on them. This might be using seasonal, local produce where appropriate: we love using fish from British coastal waters and pork from Gloucester Old Spot pigs; and game and English asparagus feature heavily on our menus during their short seasons. We also make our sauces lighter and fresher, then add a nod to the ever-changing, fast-paced London culinary scene – Ibérico pork and _foie gras_ burger, anyone? We always look at the menu as a whole and make sure customers understand what goes with what, and that some things may take a little longer to cook than others, so the meal will have a natural flow. We want our customers to get stuck in and share, to discuss the food they are eating and not be shy about getting a few crumbs on the table.
This kind of eating is about interaction, being social, having fun – and, above all, it's about trying as many different dishes as you can! With a little guidance, there's no reason you can't cook a brilliant tapas feast at home. For each recipe, we've included a couple of suggestions on what we think would complement it, so you can start to build a meal; of course, tastes are subjective, but it will give you an idea. Embrace the small-plate movement, if you haven't already. And if you need a cure for small-plate fatigue, then read on... These smaller plates are designed for sharing: serve a selection as part of a _tapas_ feast; or serve as stand-alone dishes, perhaps as a starter or light lunch. Each recipe makes 4 individual small plates; if serving _tapas_ -style, allow 1 plate between 2 people.> Grilled octopus with mojo verde and peperonata> > Octopus has a bit of bad reputation. Tough and chewy are two words that spring to mind – but cooked like this, nothing could be further from the truth. The secret is to buy frozen octopus (or get some fresh octopus and freeze it) from your fishmonger; the thawing process effectively tenderizes the meat. The octopus is then poached before being quickly grilled: simply delicious. Served with some sweet-sour peppers and a piquant green sauce hailing from the Canary Islands, this will transport you to sunny climes. A dollop of Alioli is good with this too.
1 small thawed frozen octopus, about 1–1.5kg (2¼–3½lb) frozen weight 1 white onion, roughly chopped 2 bay leaves 8 black peppercorns 2 red onions, finely sliced 2 red (bell) peppers, deseeded and finely sliced 2 yellow (bell) peppers, deseeded and finely sliced 50ml (3½ Tbsp) red wine vinegar 50g (¼ cup) demerara or brown sugar olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper 1 quantityMojo verde Dry the octopus with paper towel, then cut off and discard the head. Ensure that the hard beak or mouth has been removed too; this is just at the bottom of the head. Place the octopus in a large saucepan with the white onion, bay leaves and peppercorns, then cover generously with cold water (the octopus will expand as it cooks). Bring to the boil on the stovetop, then turn down to a slow simmer. Cover the pan with a lid or some foil and cook the octopus for around 1 hour, or until very tender – a small knife inserted into the thick part of a tentacle shouldn't meet any resistance. Leave the octopus to cool in the cooking liquid before removing and transferring to the fridge (the poaching liquid makes a delicious soup base).
Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place a medium saucepan in the indirect heat zone and pour in a lug of olive oil. Add the red onions and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until softened. Add the peppers and keep cooking until they are very soft. Now add the vinegar and sugar, season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 40 minutes or until the peppers have cooked down to a thick, rich stew. Move the pan to the edge of the barbecue to keep warm. Separate the tentacles of the octopus. Rub with olive oil and season with salt and pepper, then place them directly on the grill in the direct heat zone and cook for 2 minutes on each side to lightly char. Spoon out the peperonata, then serve with the grilled octopus and _mojo verde_. Serve with Paprika-rubbed smoky quails with caramelized onions and alioli; Lamb chops with smoky aubergine and salsa verde; Smoked and grilled chorizo with roasted peppers and saffron alioli> Young leeks with romesco> > Steeped in history, the _Calçotada_ is an annual festival that celebrates calçots, a type of large spring onion indigenous to Catalonia. Traditionally, they are cooked over an open fire until blistered and black on the outside and meltingly tender inside. Festival-goers eat them with their bare hands from newspapers, dipping them in romesco sauce as they go. If you can't get your hands on calçots, young leeks make a perfect substitute.
Serves 4 You'll also need a lump of oak wood 12–16 young leeks, calçots or salad onions olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper For the romesco sauce ½ red onion, diced 1 garlic clove, peeled ½ large red (bell) pepper, deseeded and diced 2 plum tomatoes, diced ½ Tbsp tomato paste 1 red chilli, deseeded and chopped 1 Tbsp smoked hot paprika 2 tsp ground cumin 1½ Tbsp olive oil 1½ Tbsp red wine vinegar 50g ( 1/3 cup) almonds 50g ( 1/3 cup) hazelnuts Light and set a barbecue for direct/indirect cooking. Place the wood to the side of the charcoal to start smoking. Place all the romesco sauce ingredients, except the vinegar and nuts, into a roasting pan and mix well to coat everything in the oil. Cook in the direct heat zone for 5 minutes, then transfer to the indirect heat zone. Close the lid and vent and cook for 40 minutes, stirring occasionally. When ready, the vegetables should be soft and starting to caramelize, and there shouldn't be too much liquid – if there is, move the pan to the direct heat zone and let the liquid reduce for a few minutes. Carefully tip the contents of the roasting pan into a blender. Add the nuts, vinegar and seasoning, then purée until smooth.
Toss the leeks in a little olive oil and season them well. Place directly on the grill in the direct heat zone and cook for 4 minutes on each side until charred on the outside and tender inside. Serve straightaway with the romesco sauce. Serve with Pinchos morunos; Grilled baby artichokes with pine nut purée and poached eggs> Lamb chops with smoky aubergine and salsa verde> > Lamb features heavily on my menus, whether it's super-sweet and delicate new-season lamb; brinier salt-marsh lamb from sheep grazed near the seashore; or the year-old-plus hoggets that are a little more toothsome but gamier in flavour. Whatever you get, lamb makes the perfect grilling meat. Start this the day before, to give the smoked chops plenty of resting time. Serves 4 You'll also need a cold-smoking device and some oak wood chips 4 large lamb chops or 8 smaller ones 1 quantityBrine for red meat 1 large or 2 medium aubergines (eggplants) juice of ½ lemon sea salt and black pepper For the salsa verde 1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked
1 bunch mint, leaves picked 1 bunch basil, leaves picked 3 salted anchovies 1 garlic clove 1 Tbsp capers in brine, drained 100ml (generous 1/3 cup) extra virgin olive oil 1 Tbsp Muscatel vinegar or white balsamic vinegar Place the chops in a large non-reactive bowl and pour over the brine, then cover and leave in the fridge for 1 hour. Set up the cold-smoking device in the barbecue with the wood chips and get it going. Remove the chops from the brine and pat dry with paper towels. Lay them directly on the grill, close the lid of the barbecue and cold-smoke for 1½ hours. Transfer to a clean bowl, cover and leave in the fridge to rest for at least 6 hours, or overnight. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Prick the aubergines with a fork, then cook in the direct heat zone until the skin is blistered and charred all over. Carefully move the aubergines to the indirect heat zone, close the lid of the barbecue and cook for about 1 hour or until the aubergine is soft and has started to collapse. Transfer the aubergines to a bowl. When they are cool enough to handle, remove the stalks, then roughly chop the rest, skin included. Return to the bowl, season with salt and pepper, and stir through the lemon juice. Keep warm.
Place all the salsa verde ingredients in a blender and process to a thick, green purée. Season to taste and reserve. Season the smoked lamb chops, then place them directly on the grill in the direct heat zone and cook for 3 minutes on each side to caramelize. The lamb will be pink; if you want it well done, cook for a further 2 minutes on each side. Serve the lamb chops on the chopped aubergine, then spoon over the salsa verde. Serve with Ibérico presa with jamón butter; Grilled fennel with goat's curd, honey and hazelnut picada> Hot-smoked butternut squash with ricotta and grape jam> > An unusual but stunning recipe, courtesy of Jacques and Michelle Fourie at Ember Yard. At the restaurant, we bake the squash, then cold-smoke it and finish it over the grill. For home cooking, the hot-smoking process followed by a quick grilling works beautifully. The sweet-sour grape jam and creamy ricotta complement and cool the smokiness. Serves 4 You'll also need a lump of oak hardwood and some oak wood chips
1 medium butternut squash 500g (3 1/3 cups) seedless black grapes 125g ( 2/3 cup) dark brown sugar 125ml (½ cup) red wine 125ml (½ cup) red wine vinegar 60g (¼ cup) ricotta 1 tsp oregano leaves, to serve sea salt and black pepper Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place the wood to the side of the charcoal to start smoking. Cut the squash in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds and then score the flesh in a criss-cross pattern with a sharp knife, being careful not to cut right though. Season with salt and pepper and place on the grill in the indirect heat zone. Close the lid and the vent and cook for about 1½ hours (the temperature inside the barbecue should be 180°C/350°F), throwing a handful of oak chips onto the charcoal halfway through the cooking time. When the squash is nearly done, put the grapes, sugar, wine and vinegar into a small saucepan. Open the lid of the barbecue, place the pan in the direct heat zone and bring to the boil, then move into the indirect heat zone and simmer for 20 minutes until the grapes have a jammy, syrupy consistency.
The squash is ready when it's nice and tender – the tip of a small knife should go in easily. Cut the squash halves in half lengthwise again, then serve with the ricotta, some grape jam and a sprinkling of oregano leaves. Serve with Scallops in their shells with wild mushrooms and horseradish gremolata; Grilled baby artichokes with pine nut purée and poached eggs; Marinated and grilled bavette with smoky salad onions > Scallops in their shells with wild mushrooms and horseradish gremolata> > Placed on a hot grill, scallop shells act as a great conductor of heat and smoke, quickly cooking the delicate meat inside to pearly succulence. What's more, you'll have perfect vessels to serve them in! Some might say scallops in the shell are a tad retro, but why would you part them from their natural homes? The earthy mushrooms and punchy horseradish are magic with the scallops.> > If you can't find hand-dived scallops with their shells, some plump dredged scallops will suffice – just place them directly onto the grill to cook.
Serves 4 120g (4 oz) mixed wild mushrooms olive oil, for cooking 50g (3½ Tbsp) unsalted butter juice of 2 lemons 8 large hand-dived scallops, shucked, half-shells reserved sea salt and black pepper For the horseradish gremolata ½ bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked and finely chopped 1 garlic clove, finely grated 2 tsp finely grated fresh horseradish 1 Tbsp dried coarse breadcrumbs finely grated zest of 2 unwaxed lemons 1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil Light and set the barbecue for direct/indirect cooking. For the horseradish gremolata, mix together the parsley, garlic, horseradish, breadcrumbs, lemon zest and extra virgin olive oil. Season to taste and reserve. Sort through the wild mushrooms, checking they are nice and clean, before slicing them into thin strips. Place a frying pan in the direct heat zone and add a lug of olive oil. When the oil is smoking, throw in the mushrooms and sauté until they are cooked through and have started to turn golden brown. Season to taste and add the butter to the pan. When the butter starts foaming, move the pan to the indirect heat zone, squeeze over about half of the lemon juice and keep warm at the edge of the barbecue.
Place the scallop shells on the grill in the direct heat zone and add a little splash of olive oil to each one. When the oil is smoking-hot, add a scallop to each shell and season well. Cook for 2 minutes, then turn the scallops over in the shells, close the lid of the barbecue and cook for another 3 minutes until the scallops are just cooked. Squeeze a little lemon juice on each one. Serve the scallops in their shells with the buttery wild mushrooms spooned over and a sprinkle of the gremolata. Serve with Marinated and grilled bavette with smoky salad onions; Hot-smoked butternut squash with ricotta and grape jam > Grilled baby artichokes with pine nut purée and poached eggs> > Violet baby artichokes are a joy to cook in the spring, and they make the perfect seasonal _tapa_. After we've removed the woody stalk and leaves, we cook them in water, wine and vinegar with plenty of fresh herbs until soft and tender, then grill them over hot coals. The pine nut purée is a great thing to have in your armoury – it works wonders with grilled lamb or chicken, and is also delicious eaten as a rich, hummus-like dip. Some beautiful flatbreads would go brilliantly with this.
Serves 4 4 small artichokes or 8 baby violet artichokes juice of ½ lemon 300ml (1¼ cups) white wine 300ml (1¼ cups) white wine vinegar, plus a splash extra 5 black peppercorns 1 bay leaf 1 sprig thyme 65g (½ cup) pine nuts 175ml (¾ cup) full-cream (whole) milk 4 free-range eggs, each cracked into a cup olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper Trim the ends of the stalks from the artichokes, then keep trimming away the woody, dark-green leaves until you reach the pale-green hearts. With a sharp peeler, peel from the base of the heart to the ends of the stalks, to reveal the tender, pale-green flesh. Use a teaspoon to scrape out the hairy choke, if there is any. Immediately rub the artichokes all over with lemon juice to stop them discolouring, then place in a non-reactive saucepan. When all the artichokes are prepared, add the wine, vinegar, peppercorns, bay leaf, thyme and a sprinkle of salt to the pan, then pour in enough cold water to cover. Place on the stovetop and bring to the boil, then turn down to a simmer and cook for 12–14 minutes, or until the artichokes are tender (a small knife inserted into the fattest part of the artichoke shouldn't meet any resistance). Drain the artichokes, then leave to cool and dry on paper towel before cutting in half lengthwise.
Light and set a barbecue for indirect/direct cooking. Place a small frying pan in the indirect heat zone and slowly toast the pine nuts, controlling the heat by moving the pan between heat zones until they have released their natural oils and turned golden brown. Pour in the milk and bring to the boil, then simmer for 3 minutes until the milk has reduced slightly. Pour the pine nuts and milk into a blender, season and process to a smooth purée. Back on the stovetop, bring a saucepan of water to the boil and add a splash of vinegar. Turn down to a simmer, then carefully slide in the eggs and poach for 3–4 minutes for soft yolks, or 6–7 for more set yolks. Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain well. While the eggs are poaching, lightly drizzle the artichokes with olive oil and season them. Lay them on the grill in the direct heat zone and cook for 2–3 minutes on each side until lightly charred. Serve the grilled artichokes alongside the pine nut purée and finish with the poached eggs. Serve with Young leeks with romesco> Ibérico presa with jamón butter> > This is another Ember Yard classic. Now relatively easy to get hold of, Ibérico pork's incredible fat marbling and sweet-nutty flavour is largely due to the pigs' foraged diet, which includes woodland acorns. Their meat is best cooked to medium-rare, just as you would for beef. If you can't get Ibérico pork, I'd suggest beef rib eye as an alternative.> > This whipped jamón butter is super-versatile. We've even been known to spread it thickly on toast for a naughty, indulgent late-night treat.
Serves 4 2 x 200g (7oz) steaks of Ibérico presa (shoulder) or beef rib eye 2 tspBlackening rub 1 Tbsp runny honey small handful of thyme stalks juice of ½ lemon sea salt and black pepper For the jamón butter 25g (1 oz) jamón Ibérico, Serrano ham or prosciutto, finely diced 150g ( 2/3 cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature Place the steaks in a bowl with the blackening rub and massage into the meat. Drizzle over the honey and lightly massage again until the meat is fully coated. Cover and leave to marinate in the fridge for 1½ hours. For the jamón butter, place a small frying pan over medium heat on the stovetop. Add the jamón and gently sauté for 2–3 minutes to lightly caramelize and release its natural fats. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly before mixing with the soft butter and seasoning with a little salt (remember the ham is salty). When fully incorporated, cover and leave at cool room temperature. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Take the meat out of the fridge 10 minutes before cooking, to bring it to room temperature.
Throw the thyme stalks onto the charcoal. Season the steaks with salt, then place them on the grill in the direct heat zone. Close the lid of the barbecue and leave the steaks for 4 minutes to caramelize and 'blacken' before turning over and cooking for a further 4 minutes, still with the lid closed – the meat should be medium-rare. Move the steaks to the edge of the barbecue and leave to rest for 3 minutes, then squeeze over some lemon juice. Cut the meat into thick slices and serve with the jamón butter on the side. Serve with Lamb chops with smoky aubergine and salsa verde> Thyme-smoked mussels with samphire, fino and chilli> > Choose large, plump mussels for this and make sure they are all tightly closed when you buy them. Then it couldn't be simpler: just throw the mussels on a nice hot barbecue and close the lid. As soon as they open they are ready, and they will have taken on the smokiness of the coals. I like to sprinkle the thyme stalks on the charcoal for an extra burst of flavour as well.
Serves 4 1kg (2¼lb) large mussels, scrubbed and debearded 375ml (1 2/3 cups) fino, or other very dry sherry 50g (3½ Tbsp) unsalted butter 1 small bunch thyme, leaves picked and stalks reserved 2 red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped 100g (3½oz) samphire juice of ½ lemon olive oil, for cooking black pepper Wash the mussels in running cold water for 30 minutes. Light and set a barbecue for direct cooking. Pour the sherry into a small saucepan and reduce by half on the stovetop, then whisk in the butter and reserve. Drain the mussels thoroughly and check them over, discarding any broken or open shells, then place in a bowl and toss with a little olive oil. Scatter the thyme stalks onto the hot charcoal. Throw the mussels on the barbecue – watch out for flames – and use long-handled tongs to spread them out into one even layer. Close the lid of the barbecue and cook for 6–7 minutes or until the mussels have opened, then immediately transfer to a large bowl and add the sherry butter, chilli, samphire, thyme, lemon juice and some pepper. Cover the bowl and leave for 2 minutes, shaking once or twice to make sure everything is mixed well together and the samphire gets lightly steamed.
Divide the mussels and samphire evenly between the plates, pouring over any juices that have collected in the bottom of the bowl. Serve with Chilli-spiked grilled mackerel with lemon pickle, young spinach and sumac; Grilled fennel with goat's curd, honey and hazelnut picada; Grilled baby artichokes with pine nut purée and poached eggs; Scallops in their shells with wild mushrooms and horseradish gremolata> Pinchos morunos> > Popular across the Spanish regions of Andalucia and Extremadura, these marinated meat skewers trace their origins to the Moorish occupation of Spain, the cumin and coriander telltale signs of an exotic influence. They are fantastic grilled over charcoal or wood, as the spicy meat really benefits from the lick of an open flame. We make these with Ibérico pork, but you could use lamb leg, a fattier cut of beef such as rib eye, or rare-breed British pork like Gloucester Old Spot. These are delicious with Mojo verde. Serves 4 You'll also need four metal kebab skewers 400g (14oz) pork loin, either Ibérico or British rare-breed
2 Tbsp smoked paprika 2 Tbsp ground cumin 1 tsp coriander seeds, crushed 1½ Tbsp red wine vinegar 100ml (generous 1/3 cup) extra virgin olive oil juice of ½ lemon sea salt and black pepper Cut the pork into 2cm (¾in) cubes, then thread onto four metal kebab skewers, dividing the meat evenly between them. Place the meat skewers on a tray or plate. Season well, then sprinkle over the paprika, cumin, coriander, vinegar and oil. Mix well, massaging the spices into the meat, then leave to marinade in the fridge for at least 2 hours. Light and set the barbecue for direct/indirect cooking. Drain the marinade off the pork, then place the skewers on the grill in the direct heat zone and cook for 2 minutes on each side until the meat is nicely charred and just cooked – make sure it's still slightly pink in the middle, so it will be juicy. Move to a warm spot to rest for 2 minutes and then squeeze over the lemon juice just before serving. Serve with Young leeks with romesco> Chargrilled duck breast with peas, broad beans and hot mint sauce> > I love cooking this dish in early summer, when peas and beans are at their sweetest and most vibrant; however, for convenience or out of season, you can use good-quality frozen peas and beans. As well as adding extra flavour, brining the duck breast beforehand helps to keep it succulent. To get the skin nice and crisp, it's best to score it and render the fat over a low heat, then you can ramp up the fire to cook the meat quickly so it stays pink. The hot mint sauce has an exotic North-African edge to it that works well with fatty meats – the acidity of the hot vinegar cuts through the richness.
Serves 4 You'll also need some cherry wood chips 2 x 200g (7oz) Gressingham or Barbary duck breasts ½ quantityBrine for red meat 70g (½ cup) fresh or thawed frozen peas 70g ( 2/3 cup) fresh or thawed frozen broad beans, outer skins removed sea salt and black pepper For the hot mint sauce 75ml ( 1/3 cup) extra virgin olive oil 1 large garlic clove, thinly sliced 1 bunch mint, stalks and leaves separated 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp coriander seeds, lightly crushed 50ml (3½ Tbsp) Cabernet Sauvignon vinegar or other red wine vinegar Trim the duck breasts of any excess fat and sinew, then use a very sharp knife to lightly score the skin in a criss-cross pattern, without cutting into the flesh. Put in a non-reactive bowl, pour over the brine and refrigerate to cure for 1 hour. For the hot mint sauce, place the extra virgin olive oil, garlic, mint stalks and the cumin and coriander seeds in a small, non-reactive saucepan and place over medium heat on the stovetop. When the garlic starts to turn golden, remove the pan from the heat and carefully pour in the vinegar. Season well, then set aside for an hour or so to infuse.
If you are using fresh peas and beans, cook them in boiling salted water for 2 minutes. Refresh in iced water, then drain. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Remove the duck breasts from the brine and pat dry with a paper towel. Place the duck, skin-side down, on the grill in the indirect heat zone and throw a small handful of cherry wood chips onto the charcoal. Close the lid of the barbecue and cook the duck for 4 minutes to render some of the fat and lightly caramelize the skin. Open the lid, transfer the duck to the direct cooking zone, throw another small handful of wood chips onto the charcoal and close the lid. Cook for 5–6 minutes, still skin-side down, then turn the duck breasts onto the flesh side and cook for 2 minutes or until cooked to medium (if you press your finger into the meat, it should bounce back); give it another 3–4 minutes if you want it well done. Move the duck to a warm spot to rest for 5 minutes. Strain the infused mint sauce into a clean saucepan, then add the peas and broad beans and bring to the boil in the direct heat zone. Season the sauce well, throw in the mint leaves and remove from the heat as soon as the mint has wilted.
Spoon some of the peas and beans onto the plate, then thickly slice the duck breasts and place on top. Spoon over the rest of the peas and beans, drizzle over the hot mint sauce and serve. Serve with Grilled fennel with goat's curd, honey and hazelnut picada; Lamb chops with smoky aubergine and salsa verde > Beetroot with blood orange, almonds and chard> > By far the best way to cook beetroot is to wrap them in foil and bake them very slowly in the dying embers of the charcoal. I often put some in at the end of a cooking session and leave them overnight, in the morning you'll have some super-tender, sweet, delicious beets, or pop them in the coals at the start of cooking and they'll be ready in a couple of hours. This is the ideal dish to cook in the background while you're cooking your other stuff. Serves 4 1kg (2¼lb) small beetroot (beets) – a selection of red, yellow and candy is nice 50ml (3½ Tbsp) Cabernet Sauvignon vinegar or other red wine vinegar 50ml (3½ Tbsp) extra virgin olive oil
2 blood oranges or 1 regular orange 1 red chilli, deseeded and thinly sliced 100g (3½oz) baby chard, collard greens or other seasonal leafy greens handful of Marcona almonds or blanched, salted almonds, roughly chopped olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper Wash the beetroot and trim off any leaves. Wrap each beetroot in foil, adding a sprinkle of salt and a splash of vinegar to each parcel before sealing. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Using long-handled tongs, you can either bury your beetroot parcels among the coals when they reach optimum cooking temperature, or at the end of a cooking session when the embers are dying down. Just make sure the parcels are surrounded by coals and nestle them in well, so they cook properly. They will take around 2 hours to cook through; check by inserting the tip of a small knife into the centre – it shouldn't meet any resistance. Once they're done, let them cool slightly before unwrapping the foil and peeling off the skin while the beetroot is still warm.
Slice the beetroot and place in a bowl, along with the remaining vinegar and the extra virgin olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Use a sharp knife to cut away the skin and pith of the oranges, then slice into rounds and reserve. Place a frying pan over medium heat on the stovetop. Add a splash of olive oil, followed by the chilli, chard and some salt and pepper. Cook briefly for 2 minutes, just until the chard has wilted, then transfer to the bowl with the beetroot and toss through well. Divide the beetroot and chard evenly between four plates, then top with orange slices and scatter over the almonds. Serve with Chilli-spiked grilled mackerel with lemon pickle, young spinach and sumac; Paprika-rubbed smoky quails with caramelized onions and alioli; Ember Yard smoked burger with smoked Spanish cheese; Marinated and grilled bavette with smoky salad onions> Grilled fennel with goat's curd, honey and hazelnut picada> > As these thick slices of fennel soften and char on the grill, their natural juices are concentrated and caramelized, with delicious results. Picada is a North-African kitchen stalwart; it can be used to thicken stews and sauces, or to add an interesting, crunchy element to a dish, as I've done here.
Serves 4 2 medium fennel bulbs olive oil, for cooking 1 slice of day-old bread, crusts removed 50g ( 1/3 cup) hazelnuts, roughly chopped 2 Tbsp red wine vinegar 2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp runny blossom honey 125g (4oz) goat's curd or very mild, soft goat's cheese sea salt and black pepper Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Trim the fennel bulbs and cut them into thick slices lengthwise. Season the fennel slices and drizzle them with olive oil, then lay them on the grill in the direct heat zone. Grill for 2 minutes on each side to char, then move to the indirect heat zone and close the lid of the barbecue. Cook for 7 minutes before turning the fennel and cooking for a further 5 minutes until it is very tender and nicely charred. When the fennel is done, move it to the edge of the barbecue to keep warm while you make the picada. Place a frying pan in the direct heat zone and add a good lug of olive oil. Rip the bread into small pieces and throw into the pan. Season well and fry until the bread turns a light golden brown before adding the hazelnuts. Cook for 3–4 minutes until both the bread and the nuts are a deep golden brown, moving the pan from direct to indirect heat as needed, so the nuts don't burn. Transfer the nuts and bread to a bowl and add the vinegar and extra virgin olive oil. Using a potato masher or the back of a spoon, roughly crush the bread and nuts into the oil and vinegar to make a rough, loose paste.
Place the grilled fennel on plates, spoon over the picada and drizzle with honey, then serve with the goat's curd on the side. Serve with Chilli-spiked grilled mackerel with lemon pickle, young spinach and sumac; Cuttlefish with squash, nduja and marjoram; Smoked cod with white beans, clams and parsley; Lamb chops with smoky aubergine and salsa verde> Chilli-spiked grilled mackerel with lemon pickle, young spinach and sumac> > In various guises, this dish has served us well over the years. Like many other oily fish, mackerel works brilliantly over a grill as the natural oils lubricate the flesh as it cooks. The lemon pickle is one of my favourite condiments, relying solely on beautiful-quality lemons. It's so easy to make – and the remainder will last in the fridge for a good couple of weeks, ready to serve with any grilled or roasted meat or fish. Serves 4 2 unwaxed organic lemons (Amalfi are wonderful, if they're in season), cut into quarters and seeds removed about 2 Tbsp caster (superfine) sugar 100ml (generous 1/3 cup) extra virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp marjoram or oregano leaves, stalks reserved 2 small mackerel, pin-boned and skin lightly scored ¼ tsp dried chilli flakes juice of ½ lemon 2 handfuls baby spinach leaves ¼ tsp sumac olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper First make the pickle. Place the lemons, sugar and extra virgin olive oil in a blender, blitz to a purée and then quickly blend in the marjoram or oregano. Season to taste with salt and pepper, adding a little more sugar if you'd like it sweeter. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Throw the reserved herb stalks onto the charcoal. Rub the mackerel with olive oil and season all over with salt and pepper and the chilli flakes. Like sardines, the skin on mackerel is quite delicate, so make sure your grill is clean and hot to help avoid sticking. Lay the fish on a clean grill in the indirect heat zone. Cook for 4 minutes on each side, or until the skin is crispy and charred and the flesh is starting to become opaque. Mackerel benefits from being left a little pink in the middle. Remove the mackerel from the grill, squeeze over some lemon juice and leave to rest while you prepare the spinach.
Place a medium saucepan in the direct heat zone. Add a lug of olive oil and the baby spinach leaves. Season and cook, stirring, until just wilted. Serve the mackerel on a bed of spinach with the lemon pickle on the side. Sprinkle with the sumac and some more fresh marjoram leaves, if you like. Serve with Beetroot with blood orange, almonds and chard; Smoked cod with white beans, clams and parsley> Cuttlefish with squash, nduja and marjoram> > Cuttlefish is relatively under-used in the UK, which is a real shame. Similar to squid, but perhaps a little more toothsome and with a richer, deeper flavour, it's equally good cooked quickly over a high heat or slowly braised in a stew. The Spaniards eat cuttlefish by the bucket-load... and they know their seafood. Ask your fishmonger to get some cuttlefish for you, and to clean it, separating the head and body – they're usually delighted to help. Failing that, some meaty, fresh squid will do the trick. Sweet squash, fiery nduja and herby marjoram complete the package here, making an excellent dish.
Serves 4 ½ butternut squash 50g (2oz) nduja or soft, spicy chorizo, skin removed 240g (8½oz) cuttlefish or squid, cleaned juice of ½ lemon small handful of marjoram leaves olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper Remove any seeds from the squash, then cut it into quarters lengthwise. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Rub the squash with olive oil and season, then place directly on the grill in the direct heat zone and cook for 2 minutes on each side to lightly char. Transfer to the indirect heat zone, close the lid of the barbecue and cook for 25–30 minutes, checking and turning it every now and again until the squash is soft and tender. Meanwhile, slowly heat the nduja in a small saucepan with a splash of water on the stovetop until it has just melted into a thick sauce. Keep warm. When the squash is done, move it to the edge of the barbecue to keep warm. Check the charcoal is hot enough (it needs to be very hot to quickly sear the cuttlefish); if not, add a little more charcoal.
Cut the cuttlefish into chunks, drizzle with olive oil and season well. Place the cuttlefish directly on the grill in the direct zone and cook quickly for 2 minutes on each side to lightly char. Don't cook for any longer, or it will become chewy. Squeeze some lemon juice over the cuttlefish, then serve with the squash, some nduja sauce and a sprinkling of marjoram. Serve with Grilled fennel with goat's curd, honey and hazelnut picada; Slow-cooked chicken legs with polenta, gorgonzola and oregano> Marinated and grilled beef bavette with smoky salad onions> > I find bavette to be one of the tastiest cuts of beef around. Cut from the animal's strong, well-exercised abdominal muscles, the meat should be sliced against the grain to maximize tenderness; a little brining also helps. Don't expect melt-in-the-mouth fillet here, though. This is beef that needs a little chewing, but the flavour more than makes up for that, and the smoky onions and zingy-crunchy salsa are the perfect accompaniments. Delicious.
Serves 4 4 x 100g (3½oz) pieces of beef bavette, onglet or thinly sliced rump 1 quantityBrine for red meat 100ml (generous 1 3 cup) extra virgin olive oil 2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 1 small red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped finely grated zest of 1 lemon 1 tsp thyme leaves 8 large salad onions or large, bulbous spring onions 1 quantityCrunchy shallot and garlic salsa cruda olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper Place the beef in the brine and leave, covered, for 1 hour. Drain and transfer to a clean bowl. Add the extra virgin olive oil, garlic, chilli, lemon zest and thyme, then leave to marinate for at least 1 hour. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Remove the beef from the marinade, season with salt and pepper and place on the grill in the direct heat zone. Keep a close eye on the steaks: bavette cooks quickly as it is quite thin, and it shouldn't be cooked past medium-rare otherwise it'll be tough. Grill for 2 minutes on each side to char, then move to the cooler edge of the barbecue to rest for a couple of minutes.
Cut the onions in half lengthwise, keeping the stalks intact. Toss them with a little olive oil, season with salt and pepper and place directly on the grill in the direct heat zone and cook for 3–4 minutes until charred and tender. Thickly slice the steaks and serve with the grilled onions and salsa cruda. Serve with Slow-cooked chicken legs with polenta, gorgonzola and oregano; Beetroot with blood orange, almonds and chard > Cold-smoked sea bream with pomegranate, bottarga and coriander> > This is a beautiful, light dish that's perfect for a summer's evening. The bream is simply cured and then delicately cold-smoked with apple wood chips to add a subtle fragrance, rather than a full-on smoked salmon effect! Just remember to allow time for the fish to rest after smoking – it needs at least 6 hours.> > The Sardinian speciality of bottarga is cured and air-dried mullet roe. Incredibly delicious, it is well worth seeking out, but if you can't find it, salted and dried anchovies will give you a similar briny-umami hit.
Serves 4 You'll also need a cold-smoking device and some apple wood chips 2 large (each 180g [6oz]) fillets of very fresh sea bream 30g (2 Tbsp)Dry fish cure ½ pomegranate (or 1 blood orange when in season) small handful of coriander (cilantro) leaves ½ tsp grated bottarga or ½ tsp finely chopped dried anchovies extra virgin olive, for drizzling sea salt and black pepper Place the fish on a tray or plate and scatter over the dry cure. Ensure the fish is coated all over with the cure, then cover and leave in the fridge for 1 hour. Set up the cold-smoking device in the barbecue with the wood chips and get it going. Remove the fish and rinse very briefly under cold water to remove any excess cure, then pat dry with a paper towel. Place the fillets, skin-side down, on the grill, then close the lid and vent of the barbecue. Cold-smoke for about 1½ hours – the fish should take on a pale yellow hue. Transfer the smoked fish to a clean tray or plate, cover and leave in the fridge to rest for at least 6 hours, or overnight.
To serve, finely slice the fish slices with a long, sharp knife, discarding the skin Divide the fish slices between plates, season well and drizzle with olive oil. Remove the seeds from the pomegranate, working over a bowl to collect any juices. Dot the pomegranate seeds around the fish, pouring over any juices, then finish with coriander leaves and bottarga or anchovies. Serve immediately. Serve with Paprika-rubbed smoky quails with caramelized onions and alioli; Grilled fennel with goat's curd, honey and hazelnut picada; Grilled baby artichokes with pine nut purée and poached eggs> Paprika-rubbed smoky quails with caramelized onions and alioli> > Quails make a perfect little _tapa_ and are becoming readily available in the UK. Go to any bar in Spain and you'll likely find quails with garlic and oil on the menu – they're as ubiquitous as chorizo and anchovies. For this recipe, I've brined the quails first to help them stay moist and plump on the grill and then spatchcocked them so they cook quickly and evenly. Don't forget to allow time for the quails to rest after cold-smoking; they need at least 6 hours, but can be left overnight if that's more convenient.
Serves 4 You'll also need a cold-smoking device and some oak wood chips 2 large quails, spatchcocked – ask your butcher to do this for you 1 quantityBrine for white meat 3 medium onions, finely sliced 2 tsp dark brown sugar 2 Tbsp smoked hot paprika juice of ½ lemon olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper 1 quantityAlioli, to serve Place the quails in a non-reactive bowl and pour over the brine. Cover and leave in the fridge for 1 hour, then drain and pat dry with a paper towel. Set up the cold-smoking device in the barbecue with the wood chips and get it going. Lay the quails, skin-side up, on the grill, then close the lid and vent of the barbecue and cold-smoke for 2 hours. Transfer the quails to a clean tray or plate, cover and leave in the fridge to rest for at least 6 hours or overnight. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place a medium saucepan in the indirect heat zone, then add a lug of olive oil, along with the onions and sugar. Cook slowly for 1 hour, stirring occasionally and varying the heat as necessary, until soft and lightly caramelized. When the onions are done, move the pan to the edge of the barbecue to keep warm.
Rub the quails with olive oil, season and then rub them with smoked paprika. Lay the quails, skin-side down, on the grill in the direct heat zone and cook for 3 minutes until the skin starts to crisp and lightly char. Turn over and cook for a further 3 minutes, then move to the indirect heat zone and rest for 2 minutes. The quail meat should still be slightly pink. Squeeze over some lemon juice, then cut each quail in half lengthwise. Serve with the caramelized onions and a dollop of alioli. Serve with Smoked and grilled chorizo with roasted peppers and saffron alioli; Cold-smoked sea bream with pomegranate, bottarga and coriander> Slow-cooked chicken legs with polenta, gorgonzola and oregano> > A great autumn _tapa_ : free-range chicken legs cooked long and slow, so the skin is burnished and crisp, and the meat is soft and tender with a delicate smokiness. Delicious with some warming, creamy polenta infused with blue cheese. Serves 4 You'll also need a lump of oak wood 4 small free-range chicken legs
1 quantityBrine for white meat 500ml (generous 2 cups) full-cream (whole) milk 30g (2 Tbsp) unsalted butter 90g ( 2/3 cup) instant polenta (cornmeal) 50g (¾ cup) finely grated parmesan 50g (½ cup) crumbled gorgonzola 2 tsp oregano leaves, to serve sea salt and black pepper Place the chicken in a large bowl and pour over the brine, then cover and leave in the fridge for 1 hour. Light and set the barbecue for direct/indirect cooking. Place the wood to the side of the charcoal. Remove the chicken legs from the brine and pat dry with a paper towel. Place them, skin-side down, on the grill in the direct heat zone and cook for 2 minutes, just to start caramelizing the skin. Transfer the chicken legs to the indirect heat zone, still skin-side down, and close the lid of the barbecue (the temperature inside the barbecue should be 180°C/350°F). Cook for 1–1¼ hours or until the skin is crisp and deep brown, the meat is very tender and the juices run clear. About 20 minutes before the chicken should be ready, pour the milk into a saucepan and bring to the boil on the stovetop. Add the butter and whisk until melted, then whisk in the polenta. Continue to whisk until the polenta is fully incorporated, then turn down the heat to a simmer and cook slowly for 5–6 minutes, depending on the brand. The polenta should be quite thick, smooth and not grainy. Finally, whisk in the parmesan and gorgonzola and season to taste.
Divide the polenta evenly between warmed bowls, top with a chicken leg and serve sprinkled with oregano leaves. Serve with Smoked cod with white beans, clams and parsley; Marinated and grilled bavette with smoky salad onions; Beetroot with blood orange, almonds and chard; Cuttlefish with squash, nduja and marjoram > Smoked cod with white beans, clams and parsley> > Here we salt-cure the cod before cold-smoking it with oak chips. The cod is then grilled to smoky deliciousness. This dish was inspired by the cuisine of the Spanish Basque Country, where cod, parsley and clams are considered the holy trinity of the gastronomic world. Serves 4 You'll also need a cold-smoking device and some fine oak wood chips 4 x 100g (3½oz) fillets of cod, skin on 40g (3 Tbsp)Dry fish cure 200g (1¼ cups) dried white beans, soaked overnight, or 400g (2½ cups) good-quality, cooked white beans, rinsed and drained 1 large shallot, finely sliced 1 garlic clove, chopped 100ml (generous 1/3 cup) dry cider 200g (7oz) clams in the shell, scrubbed
50g (3½ Tbsp) unsalted butter 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped juice of ½ lemon olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper Place the cod on a tray or plate and scatter over the dry cure. Ensure the fish is coated all over with the cure, then cover and leave in the fridge for 1 hour. Set up the cold-smoking device in the barbecue with the wood chips and get it going. Remove the cod and rinse very briefly under cold water to remove any excess cure. Place the fillets, skin-side down, on the grill, then close the lid and vent of the barbecue and cold-smoke for 1 hour and 20 minutes. Transfer the smoked cod to a clean tray or plate, cover and leave in the fridge to rest for at least 6 hours, or overnight. If you are using dried white beans, cook them in simmering unsalted water for about 1½ hours or until tender, then drain well and reserve. Light and set the barbecue for direct/indirect cooking. Place a medium saucepan in the direct heat zone and add a lug of olive oil. Add the shallot and garlic and cook gently, without colouring, until soft (you may need to move the pan into the indirect zone to regulate the heat). Pour in the cider, then tip in the clams. Cover the pan and steam until the clams open, discarding any that don't. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the clams to a bowl, leaving the cider and cooking liquid in the pan. Add the beans to the pan, along with the butter and parsley, and leave to simmer gently while you cook the cod.
Season the smoked cod fillets and brush with olive oil, then place them, skin-side down, on the grill. Cook for 2–3 minutes on each side, depending on the thickness of the fillets. When it is done, the flesh should be opaque with a nicely charred and caramelized exterior. Squeeze over some lemon juice. Tip the clams back into the pan with the beans to heat through. Check the seasoning and add a squeeze of lemon juice, if it needs it, then divide the beans and clams evenly between the plates. Sit the cod on top and serve. Serve with Chilli-spiked grilled mackerel with lemon pickle, young spinach and sumac; Slow-cooked chicken legs with polenta, gorgonzola and oregano> Smoked and grilled chorizo with roasted peppers and saffron alioli> > You can buy ready-smoked chorizo, but I prefer to cold-smoke fresh cooking chorizo with apple wood chips and then grill it quickly over a high heat. There's nothing quite like the smell of grilling chorizo for causing a stir and an impromptu gathering around the grill! A cooling saffron alioli is just the thing for dipping the hot chorizo, and the vivid yellow looks great with the paprika-red meat.
Serves 4 You'll also need a cold-smoking device and some apple wood chips 350g (12oz) soft, spicy cooking chorizo (about 6 sausages), peeled 1 large red (bell) pepper 1 large yellow (bell) pepper 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1 tsp thyme leaves 50ml (3½ Tbsp) extra virgin olive oil 50ml (3½ Tbsp) white balsamic vinegar 2 pinches of saffron strands, infused in a splash of warm water sea salt and black pepper 1 quantityAlioli, to serve Set up the cold-smoking device in the barbecue with the wood chips and get it going. Place the chorizo on the grill, then close the lid and vent of the barbecue and cold-smoke for 2 hours. Transfer the smoked chorizo to a tray or plate, cover and leave in the fridge to rest for at least 6 hours, or overnight. Set and light the barbecue for direct/indirect cooking. Place the peppers directly onto the grill in the direct heat zone and grill on all sides to blacken. Transfer the peppers to the indirect heat zone, close the lid of the barbecue and cook for 20 minutes or until the peppers are soft and have started to collapse. Place the peppers in a heatproof bowl and cover with cling film while they are still hot. Leave to steam for 15 minutes, then peel off the skins and remove any seeds.
Roughly slice the peppers, then place in a clean bowl, along with the garlic, thyme, extra virgin olive oil, vinegar and seasoning. Set aside to marinate for 15 minutes before you start to grill the smoked chorizo. Cut the chorizo in half lengthwise, place on the grill in the direct heat zone and cook for 2 minutes on each side until lightly charred and cooked through. Whisk the saffron-infused water into the alioli. Spoon the marinated peppers onto the plates, then serve with the hot-grilled chorizo and a dollop of the alioli. Serve with Grilled octopus with mojo verde and peperonata; Paprika-rubbed smoky quails with caramelized onions and alioli> Ember Yard smoked burger with smoked Spanish cheese> > Since we do tapas at Salt Yard Group, I never thought we'd become known for our burgers. But times change, and now we've got two hits under our belt: the Opera Tavern's Ibérico pork and _foie gras_ burger, and this one from Ember Yard – which is not just any old burger, as you'll see. We decided to cold-smoke the beef rump before grinding it with some lardo (pork back fat) and shaping it into burgers. Topped with the smoked Basque sheep's cheese called Idiazabel, and served with lashings of alioli and chorizo ketchup, it's been such a success that we daren't take it off the menu.
Serves 4 You'll also need a cold-smoking device and some fine oak wood chips 400g (14oz) good-quality minced beef (ideally aged rump, freshly minced – ask your butcher nicely) 1 medium shallot, finely diced 1½ Tbsp dried breadcrumbs 2 tsp full-cream (whole) milk 40g (1½ oz) chunk of lardo or fatty pancetta, frozen 60g (2oz) Idiazabel, or other good smoked cheese, grated 4 small, soft burger buns 4 tspAlioli, or quality storebought 4 small leaves of butterhead or gem lettuce 4 tspChorizo ketchup ½ small red onion, very finely sliced into rings 4 pickled guindilla peppers or green chillies, to serve – optional sea salt and black pepper Set up the cold-smoking device in the barbecue with the wood chips and get it going. Spread out the mince on a small baking sheet. Place in the barbecue, close the lid and vent and cold-smoke for 1½ hours. Remove the smoked mince from the barbecue, cover and leave in the fridge to rest for at least 6 hours, or overnight. Light and set a barbecue for direct/indirect cooking.
Transfer the smoked mince to a bowl and add the shallot, breadcrumbs, milk and plenty of seasoning. Grate the frozen lardo or pancetta directly into the mince, then mix everything together very well. Before shaping the burgers, I like to fry off a little bit of the mince mixture to check the seasoning. Taste and adjust as necessary, then divide the mince into quarters and use your hands to mould into four burgers. Place the burgers on the grill in the direct heat zone and cook for 2 minutes on each side to lightly char, then transfer to the indirect heat zone. Sprinkle a quarter of the cheese on top of each burger, then close the lid and leave for 5 minutes until the cheese has melted and the burgers are cooked to medium (good mince can happily be left a little pink). To check if they're done, press one with your finger – the meat should spring back into shape. Rest the burgers in a warm spot for a couple of minutes while you get everything else ready. Cut the burger buns and quickly grill the cut side to add a little char. Spoon some alioli on the base of each bun, followed by a lettuce leaf, a spoonful of the ketchup, then a burger, some red onion slices and the top of the bun. For a natty, restaurant-style presentation, spear a guindilla pepper or green chilli onto a skewer, then push the skewer right through the burger. A crowd-pleaser, if ever there was one!
Serve with Beetroot with blood orange, almonds and chard; Ibérico presa with jamón butter > For all my experience in, passion for, and knowledge of the world of tapas and small plates, my absolute favourite way to share food is family-style. Everybody sits around the table with a hunk of meat or fish as the focal point. For me, there's nothing quite like a beautifully cooked piece of meat, rested to perfection, then carried almost ceremonially to the table and finally carved... Even just writing this, I'm salivating at the thought and wishing it were Sunday. Now. This love of the traditional family roast dinner stems from my particular food culture, which may be less exotic than the sprawling mezze spreads of the Middle East, and a far cry from the fancy restaurants that now dominate my working world, but is just as remarkable. When I was growing up, meal times were usually rushed affairs, slotted in between other things and treated essentially as a means of sustenance, often eaten in front of the TV, perhaps on my own and sometimes with my very busy parents. But Sundays were an exception, when we'd all gather at the table. These are the times that have stayed with me, and which I now love to replicate at home with my wife and friends. There would always be a roast of some description: beef, lamb or pork (rarely chicken, come to think of it). And it would be served with a large selection of seasonal vegetables – we lived in Lincolnshire, where seasonal vegetables were the norm, even 25 years ago, and were dirt-cheap. Plus potatoes, of course: always roasted and then mashed and/or boiled, depending on who was in charge of the cooking; my dad was definitely more ambitious when it came to the spuds. Not forgetting thick gravy and all the condiments, which I still crave: mint sauce, apple sauce and peppery horseradish. Usually, my dad would carve the roast in front of us and hand out the accompaniments.
Happy memories. As a child, I loved the whole ritual, especially the sense of anticipation created by the lengthy cooking time. My slow-burning excitement was fuelled by the smells of caramelizing fat and meat that permeated every room in the house, which always had me checking on progress, getting more and more hungry as the hours slipped by. Back then, I honestly think the idealized image of sitting down as a family and breaking bread together played second fiddle to the thrill of devouring a hunk of roasted meat, but these days I'm a little more family orientated! Now, every Sunday (and occasionally on other days too), I like to labour and fuss over the roast beef, pork or lamb – or a casserole or pie, sometimes even a whole fish – before sitting down for a family-style feast with a nice bottle of wine and relishing the whole process. So when we opened Ember Yard, how could we resist including such dishes on the menu, despite it putting a slight dent in our concept of 'small plates and tapas for sharing'? The thinking behind it was that large cuts of meat, or indeed fish, cooked for a good long time in a barbecue, and cooked well, is the stuff of dreams. Of course – brining and cold-smoking aside – it makes sense that the longer something stays in the barbecue, and the slower it cooks, the more delicious smoky flavour it's going to take on board. According to barbecue purists in the USA, cooking something for less than two hours isn't even considered barbecuing, just plain old grilling, but I won't get into the nitty-gritty of that here. For me, it all comes down to sharing – whether it's small or large plates – and the excitement that encourages.
Imagine a glorious, Florentine-style bistecca, or aged T-bone steak, cooked medium-rare, then sliced and served simply with garlic, rosemary and lemon zest; with our added twist of a little brine and smoke, and the meat reassembled around its prehistoric-looking bone, it's just such an impressive thing to bring to the table. Then there's a rich, full-flavoured hogget shoulder with North-African spices, or a leg of salt-marsh lamb with wild garlic pesto – both cooked long and slow, with the addition of a little oak wood, to intensify and naturally sweeten the flavours. When it comes to barbecued chicken, spatchcocking the bird beforehand makes for more even cooking, and brining helps to keep the meat succulent. Whole fish and shellfish hold their own on the barbecue too: try a luxurious grilled lobster for a special occasion, or a whole brill with seaweed butter for an alternative Sunday lunch. This is where you get to show off your barbecue technique, with lots of preparation, leisurely indirect cooking and temperature checking. But then we all know that the really good stuff comes to those who wait...
The dishes in this chapter are designed to be eaten family-style, with a choice of accompaniments from the 'Sides' chapter. Compared to grazing on small plates, this may be a different way of sharing, but it's equally sociable, interactive and delicious. > Spatchcocked chicken with fig glaze, figs and sprouting broccoli> > It really is worth spending a little more to buy a quality chicken. Not only is it better ethically and flavour-wise, but also a slightly older, free-range, well-fed chicken will actually cook better on the grill. Fact. This is because the water content of a battery-raised chicken will hinder the cooking and charring process as it leaches out. Here, the fruity sweetness of slowly cooked figs and fig glaze contrasts beautifully with the savoury chicken. Serves 4 You'll also need a lump of hardwood, a temperature probe and a water tray 1 large (2kg/4½lb) free-range chicken, spatchcocked – ask your butcher to do this 1 quantityBrine for white meat 400g (14oz) sprouting broccoli, trimmed
4 large black figs, cut in half olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper For the fig glaze 250g (¾ cup) fig jam or preserved figs 50ml (3½ Tbsp) red wine vinegar Pour the brine into a non-reactive container big enough to hold the chicken and pour in enough cold water to cover. Leave in the fridge for 7 hours, or overnight. To make the fig glaze, place the fig jam or preserved figs, vinegar and 90 ml (1/3 cup) of water in a medium-sized saucepan and bring to the boil on the stovetop. Stir until the jam has melted. If you are using preserved figs, blend the glaze to a purée in a blender. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place the lump of wood onto the ashen charcoal to start smoking. Lift the chicken out of the brine and pat dry with paper towels. Rub over a third of the fig glaze and season with salt and pepper. Place the chicken, skin-side down, on the grill in the direct heat zone and cook for 4 minutes, to start caramelizing the skin. Turn the chicken over and transfer it to the indirect heat zone. Place a water tray in the direct heat zone and close the lid of the barbecue (the temperature inside the barbecue should be about 170°C/340°F).
After 10 minutes, baste the chicken with fig glaze and continue to cook for an hour or so, glazing it twice more during the process. When it is ready, the internal temperature of the chicken should be around 80°C (175°F), and it should be nicely glazed and caramelized. Rest the chicken in a warm spot for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, toss the broccoli with olive oil, salt and pepper and throw onto the grill in the direct heat zone, along with the figs. Cook for about 15 minutes until the figs are soft and sticky and the broccoli nicely charred and _al dente_. Serve the chicken on a platter with the broccoli and roast figs.> Slow-cooked and charcoal-grilled beef rib with horseradish sauce> > If I'm going to have beef for Sunday lunch, then it's got to be rib, on the bone. It's got everything going for it: plenty of fat and beautiful meat, with more chew to it than tender cuts like fillet. What's more, the meat between the rib bones cooks to sticky-crispiness and is perfect for nibbling on. It's got to be the most impressive-looking thing too. I like to season the beef generously and then cook it really, really slowly in the oven, keeping the meat beautifully pink, before finishing it over a fierce heat on the barbecue to crisp-up and char the fat, caramelize the meat and add a barrage of smoke! This takes around 7 hours in total, so plan your day around it...
Serves 6–8 You'll also need a temperature probe and some oak or chestnut wood chips 1 x 3.5–4kg (7¾–9lb) beef fore-rib with 4 bones, trimmed, rolled and tied 5 sprigs rosemary, leaves picked and chopped, stalks reserved 1 garlic bulb, cloves separated and crushed olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper For the horseradish sauce 1 Tbsp finely grated fresh horseradish, or more to taste 1 Tbsp Cabernet Sauvignon vinegar or other red wine vinegar 250ml (generous 1 cup) crème fraiche Preheat the oven to 90°C (195°F/gas mark ¼). Remove the beef from the fridge an hour before cooking and place in a roasting tin. Rub with olive oil and season well, then sprinkle with the chopped rosemary and rub over the garlic cloves, allowing some of them to drop into the tin. Cook the beef in the oven for about 4½ hours. Use the temperature probe to check the internal temperature: it should be around 55°C (130°F) for medium-rare, 60°C (140°F) for medium. Remove the beef from the oven and leave to rest for 40 minutes.
Light the barbecue and set for direct cooking. Rub the beef with more olive oil and seasoning, then place on the grill, fat-side down, and let it caramelize for 5 minutes before turning and repeating on the other side. Now throw the reserved rosemary stalks and a handful of wood chips onto the coals, close the lid of the barbecue and hot-smoke the beef for 7 minutes. Open the lid and, using long-handled tongs, turn the beef onto its ends to caramelize for 2 minutes each before turning it back onto the fat side. Close the lid and cook for a further 7 minutes. When it's ready, the meat and fat should have a beautifully caramelized crust. Remove the beef from the barbecue and leave to rest for 20 minutes. For the horseradish sauce, place the horseradish in a small bowl with the vinegar and allow to steep for 5 minutes before whisking in the crème fraiche and seasoning well. Serve the beef on a wooden board at the table with the horseradish sauce on the side. Wood-roasted potatoes with thyme and garlic are a great side for this, as is Cavolo nero gratin with cream and gorgonzola.
> Marinated and roasted salt-marsh lamb leg with wild garlic pesto> > I urge you to try salt-marsh lamb when it's available – generally during the latter part of spring and into early summer. The sheep graze on coastal marshland, which is abundant in herbal grasses, samphire, sorrel and sea lavenders. Such a rich and varied diet gives their meat a sweet-briny, almost floral, note. The wild garlic pesto ties in nicely with the season for salt-marsh lamb, and is a fresh, punchy counterpart to the unctuous meat. Regular new season's lamb would, of course, work brilliantly here too. Serves 8 hungry people You'll also need a lump of hardwood and a temperature probe 1 x 2.5kg (5½lb) boned leg of salt-marsh or other lamb, skin on 3 Tbsp olive oil 5 garlic cloves, finely chopped finely grated zest of 2 lemons 40g (1½oz) salted anchovies, finely chopped ½ bunch thyme, leaves picked 1 Tbsp black peppercorns, crushed 2 Tbsp red wine vinegar sea salt and black pepper For the wild garlic pesto 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked
handful of wild garlic (ramsons) leaves 20g (2 Tbsp) pine nuts 20g ( 1/3 cup) finely grated parmesan 50ml (3½ Tbsp) red wine vinegar about 100ml (generous 1/3 cup) extra virgin olive oil squeeze of lemon juice To butterfly the lamb leg, lay it skin-side down on a board and cut halfway through the centre of the leg to where the bone was. Open the meat out and cut incisions into each side of the leg to open it out further until you have a thick, even slab of meat. Lay the lamb leg, skin-side up, in a tray or dish. Using a very sharp knife, lightly score the skin in a criss-cross fashion – this will help the marinade to penetrate. Drizzle with the olive oil, then spread over the garlic, lemon zest, anchovies, thyme, peppercorns and vinegar. Massage the marinade into the meat, then cover and transfer to the fridge. Leave for at least 3 hours, or overnight. When ready to cook, light the barbecue and set for direct/ indirect cooking. Place a lump of hardwood onto the ashen charcoal to start smoking.
Remove the lamb from the fridge 20 minutes before cooking, to let it come to room temperature. Reserve the marinade for basting later. Season the lamb with salt, then lay it skin-side down on the grill in the direct heat zone and quickly sear for 5 minutes. Turn it over and sear the other side for 5 minutes, then transfer to the indirect heat zone, still skin-side down. Close the lid of the barbecue and cook for 25 minutes (the temperature inside the barbecue should be about 170°C [340°F]). Turn over the lamb and cook for a further 20 minutes, basting with the remaining marinade a couple of times. Meanwhile, make the wild garlic pesto. Put the parsley, garlic leaves, pine nuts and parmesan in a blender and turn on to maximum speed. Add the vinegar and then slowly pour in the olive oil. You may need to scrape down the sides and re-blend to ensure it's quite smooth. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice and set aside. Check the internal temperature of the meat – it should be around 65°C (150°F) for pink. Remove the lamb to a plate or platter and leave to rest in a warm spot for 20 minutes. Cut the meat into chunks and serve with the pesto and any resting juices. > Salt-baked wild bream with orange and basil> > Baking fish, or indeed meat, in a salt crust is an age-old cooking method that's mainly practised in Spain and Italy. Don't be concerned about saltiness; the salt crust gently seasons the fish during the cooking, imparting a surprising sweetness. The salt cocoon also protects the fish from fierce direct heat while gently steaming it in its own self-contained 'oven'.> > This is a dead-cert knockout dish for a dinner party. For maximum impact, carry the bream in its salt jacket to the table and crack open the crust, releasing the fragrant, heady aromas of the orange and basil, and revealing perfectly cooked, moist fish. Serve with Italian-style seasonal greens and Creamy white polenta.
Serves 4–6 You'll also need 6 cocktail sticks and a temperature probe 2 large (each 1kg [2¼lb]) sea bream (or sea bass), gutted and scaled 800g (4 cups) coarse sea salt 1 small orange ½ bunch basil First make the salt crust by mixing the salt with a tablespoon of water to loosen. Gradually add more water – up to 3½ tablespoons altogether – until the consistency of the salt is something like wet-ish sand. You should be able to press the salt together in your hand and it will hold its shape. Slice the orange into rounds and then cut each round in half to create semi-circles. Stuff these into the cavities of the bream, just below the head, then rip up the basil and stuff this into the cavities too. Use the cocktail sticks to skewer the cavities closed. Take a baking tray large enough to hold the fish and spread about one third of the salt crust over the tray. Sit the bream on top, then cover the top and sides of the fish with the rest of the salt crust, leaving their tails and mouths exposed. It's very important that the main body of the fish – the part you'll be eating – is completely sealed in the salt crust to ensure it cooks properly: check it carefully, patting the crust around the fish. The fish is now ready to cook, but can be safely left in the fridge up to 4 hours before cooking.
Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Wait until the temperature inside the barbecue reaches 170–175°C (340–350°F; regulate with the vents, if needed), then place the tray in the indirect heat zone and close the lid. Cook for 25 minutes or until the salt crust is a pale golden brown and the internal temperature of the fish reaches 50°C (122°F) – use a temperature probe to pierce through the salt crust and check this. Remove the tray from the barbecue and leave the fish to rest for 5 minutes – it will continue to cook in the salt crust, so it's important to take it off the grill while it's still slightly under-cooked. To serve, carry the tray to the table and, using a spoon or small knife, pull away the salt crust, starting from the head. The crust should come away easily, pulling the skin off with it; if the skin doesn't come off with the crust, just scrape it off. Once you've eaten the top half of the bream, pull out the central bone to expose the rest of the flesh. Just be careful not to eat any of the salt crust!> Grilled lobster with smoked butter> > A luxurious and majestic centrepiece to a meal, if ever there was one! Shellfish is fantastic cooked over charcoal, and the lobster shell imparts a sweet-smokiness as it becomes charred; it also helps to protect the delicate white meat against the intense heat, keeping it beautifully moist. For me, grilled lobster just has to be slathered with melted butter, and here it's smoked...> > Serve this with some Crispy artichokes with lemon and sage or Roasted buttermilk parsnips with manchego and rosemary.
Serves 4 You'll also need some oak or apple chips 2 x 750g–1kg (1¾–2¼lb) lobsters, preferably native 100g (3½oz)Smoked butter, at room temperature sea salt and black pepper If you have live lobsters, put them in the freezer for an hour or so (but be careful not to freeze them) – this will put them to sleep, so they can be dispatched as humanely as possible. Light the barbecue and set for direct cooking. On the stovetop, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil over high heat. Plunge the lobsters into the boiling water and cook for 3 minutes before removing and plunging into cold water to stop the cooking process; the lobsters will only be partly cooked at this stage. Place the lobsters on their backs on a chopping board and, using a large, heavy-bladed knife, cut them in half lengthwise. Start by inserting the tip of the knife at base of the tail behind the head and cutting down through the tail. Next turn the lobster around and cut cleanly through the head; depending on the thickness of the shell, you may need to press the knife down to chop through it. Discard the coral and intestine from the head and crack each claw with the heel of a knife or a claw cracker. Be careful not to smash the claws completely – you just want to crack the shell and expose the meat.
Season the lobster meat and smear the tails with some of the smoked butter. Throw a good handful of wood chips on the charcoal and place the lobsters, shell-side down, on the grill. Close the lid of the barbecue and cook the lobsters for 6 minutes until the meat is just cooked through and the shell has started to blacken. Remove the lobsters from the grill and serve with the rest of the smoked butter on the side. A lobster pick or metal skewer is handy for getting out all the small pieces of meat from the knuckles.> Slow-cooked hogget shoulder with cumin, smoked paprika and buttermilk dressing> > Still relatively unknown, hogget is the term for a sheep between 12 and 24 months – which makes it quite specific, neither lamb nor mutton. I've always sought out hogget, as I think you get the best of both worlds: a stronger, gamier and more intensely flavoured meat with more bite than lamb, but not as in-your-face as mutton.> > This dish is a bit of a weekend project, when you have plenty of time to potter about whilst your meat is marinating, and then time for the long, slow cooking that renders it meltingly tender. It's my kind of cooking.
Serves 4–6 You'll also need 3 lumps of oak wood, a chimney starter, a water tray and a temperature probe 1 x 2.5–3kg (5½–6¾lb) whole hogget or lamb shoulder, bone in 50ml (3½ Tbsp) olive oil 3 Tbsp smoked paprika 4 Tbsp crushed coriander seeds 2 Tbsp ground cumin 8 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 50ml (3½ Tbsp) red wine vinegar sea salt and black pepper For the buttermilk dressing 100ml (generous 1/3 cup) buttermilk 20ml (1½ Tbsp) white wine vinegar 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped Lay out a large double layer of foil and place the hogget on top. Rub the meat with the olive oil, season well with salt and pepper, then rub all over with the paprika, coriander and cumin. Rub the garlic all over. Drizzle with the vinegar, then wrap up the foil to completely enclose the hogget. Leave to marinate in the fridge for at least 5 hours or overnight. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place the water tray in the direct heat zone and put 2 lumps of wood onto the ashen charcoal to start smoking. Place the meat in the indirect heat zone and close the lid of the barbecue. (The temperature inside the barbecue should be about 180–190°C/350–375°F; regulate with the vents, if needed.) The hogget will take around 4 hours to cook. You need to turn it every hour and, after 2 hours, you'll need to top up the coals with a fresh batch from the chimney starter and add another lump of wood. Take off the foil for the last hour, to allow the meat to brown and caramelize. The hogget will become incredibly tender and melting: when it can be 'cut' with a spoon, it's ready. To be on the safe side, use the temperature probe to check the internal temperature, which should be around 75°C (167°F).
For the buttermilk dressing, simply whisk together the buttermilk, vinegar and garlic and season well. Rest the hogget in a warm spot for 30 minutes before serving with the buttermilk dressing. I like to serve this 'pulled' into shreds using two forks and then wrapped in Potato and honey flatbreads with a crisp green salad and finely sliced red onions. > Florentine-style steak> > This is inspired by both the _bistecca Fiorentina_ found the length and breadth of Florence and across the rest of Tuscany, and by a love of brilliant beef. The classic Fiorentina is a T-bone cut from local beasts, usually the Chianina breed, and then grilled very rare, sliced and served with chopped raw garlic, rosemary and maybe some lemon. The dish has acquired something of a cult status in Italy, where there are several staunch schools of thought on its preparation and execution. This passionate debate is typical of the Italians' approach to food and its wider cultural context, and I love them for it.> > I've added a quick brining, followed by some cold-smoking to give it a super-smoky boost. After this, you'll need to rest the meat for a few hours – but, boy, is it worth it!
Serves 4 You'll need a cold-smoking device and some oak wood dust for this recipe 2 x 1kg (2¼lb) T-bone steaks or 2 x 600g (1¼lb) sirloin or rump steaks of similar thickness 1 quantityBrine for red meat 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 sprigs rosemary, leaves finely chopped finely grated zest of 1 lemon olive oil, for cooking extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling sea salt and black pepper Submerge the steaks in the brine in a non-reactive container and leave for 1 hour. Light and set the cold-smoking device in the barbecue. Place the steaks on the rack in the barbecue and smoke for 2 hours and 20 minutes. Transfer the steaks to a bowl, then cover and allow to rest in the fridge for at least 4 hours, or overnight. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Season the steaks, rub with a little olive oil and then place on the grill over the direct heat zone. Cook for 3 minutes until nicely charred and caramelized, then turn over and cook for a further 3 minutes before moving to the perimeter of the indirect heat zone for 2 minutes to rest. These cooking times will give you medium-rare steaks – if you want them cooked further, i.e. medium, then add another 2 minutes on each side to the cooking time.
Transfer the steaks to a chopping board. Cut the meat off the bone, then thickly slice each piece before reassembling. Transfer to a clean board or platter, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and sprinkle over the garlic, rosemary and lemon zest. This is great with Wood-roasted potatoes with thyme and garlic, which you can cook just before the steak goes on and keep warm for a few minutes – all seriously delicious.> Barbecued brill with seaweed butter> > Brill is the unsung hero of the flat-fish world. Not as glamorous (or as expensive) as its cousin the turbot, it is equally sweet and delicious, with firm, meaty flesh. I first tried whole brill cooked over charcoal at a restaurant in San Sebastian in Spain. It was fantastic, and I loved it so much that I came home with a specially designed fish-grilling basket. You can pick these up at kitchenware stores and online, but alternatively some careful spatula action will work fine.> > The seaweed butter is an unusual but relevant intriguing addition to the brill. Sea lettuce is the preferred seaweed for this, although you could also use samphire or sea purslane; your fishmonger should be happy to help.
Serves 4 You'll also need a fish-grilling basket, if possible, or just a large spatula 70g (2½oz) seaweed, any dry stalks removed if using purslane 125g (½ cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 x 1.6kg (3½lb) whole brill, guts and fins removed juice of ½ lemon sea salt and black pepper Light the barbecue and set for direct cooking. Roughly chop the seaweed, then mix it through the butter. Season well with salt and pepper and set aside. Season the brill on both sides and clamp into the fish-grilling basket, if you have one. Put the fish on the grill and cook for 6 minutes on each side until the skin is charred and the flesh is opaque – check this just below the head, where the fish is at its fattest. Generously dot the butter onto the fish and let it melt over the flesh before squeezing over the lemon juice and transferring to a serving board or platter. > Honey-basted duck with fondant fennel> > Is it me, or has a whole roast duck become little more than a distant memory from the 80s? Chinese restaurants excluded, you rarely see them now – it always seems to be breasts and legs cooked separately – but, for me, there's nothing like a glistening, mahogany-lacquered bird with crispy skin and succulent meat. I think it's the fattiness that scares some people; however, if you render the fat properly there won't be an excessive amount, and it will be balanced by the meat and skin. The aniseed note of the fennel helps to cut the richness, and is a match made in heaven.
Serves 4–6 You'll also need a temperature probe, 2 lumps of hardwood and a roasting pan large enough to hold the duck and fit in your barbecue! 1 x 2.5kg (5½lb) oven-ready duck 3 quantitiesBrine for red meat 2 medium fennel bulbs 2 star anise 2 bay leaves 100ml (6½ Tbsp) runny honey sea salt and black pepper Place the duck in a non-reactive container and pour over the brine. Cover and leave to cure in the fridge for 5 hours. Lift the duck out of the brine and pat dry with paper towels. Using a roasting fork or a skewer, prick the skin of the duck all over – this will help to release the fat from under the skin during cooking, resulting in crispier skin. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place the lumps of wood onto the ashen coals to start smoking. Trim the ends from the fennel, then cut each bulb lengthwise into quarters. Place the fennel in the roasting pan and sit the duck on top. Season with salt and pepper, then pour about 250ml (1 cup) of water around the fennel and add the star anise and bay leaves. The water will help to cook the fennel and steam the underside of the duck, keeping the meat moist and creating a delicious gravy. Very useful!
Place the pan in the direct heat zone and close the lid of the barbecue (the temperature inside the barbecue should be about 220–230°C/425–450°F). Cook the duck for 20 minutes, then brush with honey and cook for a further 20 minutes, still with the lid down. Transfer the pan to the indirect heat zone and cook for 20 more minutes, topping up the water as necessary to keep about 200ml (¾ cup) in the base of the pan. When it's ready, the duck should have a crisp, mahogany skin, the fennel should be very tender and glazed, and the fatty juices in the pan should have started to reduce. To be on the safe side, use the temperature probe to check the internal temperature of the duck, which should be around 60°C (140°F). At this temperature, the duck meat will still be pink; for well done, cook the duck for another 20 minutes. Remove from the barbecue and leave to rest in a warm spot for 20 minutes. Place the duck on a chopping board, transfer the fennel to a serving dish and keep both warm. Strain the cooking juices through a fine sieve into a small saucepan and place over medium heat on the stovetop. Carefully skim off the fat with a ladle and, if necessary, simmer the juices for a couple minutes to reduce to a gravy consistency.
Serve the duck and fennel with a jug of gravy alongside.> Roasted and grilled pork ribs with quince glaze> > Writing a barbecue book, I just had to include some ribs. These have been on the menu at Ember Yard since we opened, and will probably never come off. We use Ibérico pork and if you can source this online or at a specialist butcher, then I highly recommend it. Membrillo (quince cheese, paste or jelly) is a classic Spanish condiment to accompany cheese. It is made by cooking quinces, long and slow, to a puree, then set with natural pectin from the fruit. It's available at Spanish food suppliers or good supermarkets. Melting it down to a thick syrup and adding vinegar for acidity makes a brilliant rib glaze, and it's easy too! Serves 4 You'll also need a lump of oak or beech hardwood 1 x 1.2kg (2¾lb) rack of Ibérico or Gloucester Old Spot pork ribs 1½ Tbsp coarse sea salt 10 black peppercorns 3 bay leaves For the quince glaze 200g (7oz) quince paste (membrillo) 50ml (3½ Tbsp) white balsamic vinegar
50g (¼ cup) dark brown sugar Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/gas mark 4). Place the rib racks in a large roasting tin and pour in 3 litres (3 quarts) of water, then add the salt, peppercorns and bay leaves. Cover the tin with foil, transfer to the oven and cook for about 1½ hours, or until the ribs are very soft and tender – you should be able to pull out a bone quite easily. Remove the ribs from the tin and leave to cool for an hour or so to firm up. Meanwhile, make the quince glaze. Place all the ingredients in a medium saucepan with 300ml (1¼ cups) of water and stir over low heat on the stovetop until the quince paste has completely melted. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place the lump of wood onto the ashen charcoal to start smoking. Brush the ribs with the glaze, then place on the grill in the direct heat zone. Cook for 2 minutes on each side before moving them to the indirect heat zone and basting with the glaze. Close the lid of the barbecue and continue to cook the ribs, turning and basting them every 3 minutes or so, until they are beautifully glazed and lightly charred with a good crust.
I like to serve these ribs with extra warm glaze on the side for dipping, and perhaps a Seasonal salad of heritage carrots and Patatas aliñadas. > Hot-smoked pork belly with cider, apples and marjoram> > The classic combination of pork, apple and cider has been around for years. It is said that this culinary triumvirate first came into being in Normandy, where all three elements are in plentiful supply. When I was young, my parents would cook pork chops with grilled apples and cider gravy, and I remember thinking how exotic and interesting the dish was (I think it's still rolled out in the Tish senior household on special occasions). You'll need to start this recipe the day before.> > There's only one non-negotiable in this book... and that's serving this pork with Smoked mashed potato. Serves 4 You'll also need a lump of hardwood, a chimney starter, a water tray and a temperature probe 1.2 kg (2¾lb) boneless pork belly, skin on 1 quantityBrine for white meat 4 small apples ½ bunch marjoram, leaves picked, to serve
sea salt and black pepper For the cider glaze 100g (½ cup) dark brown sugar 50ml (3½ Tbsp) cider vinegar 500ml (generous 2 cups) dry cider Using a very sharp knife, score the skin of the pork belly in criss-cross fashion. Place the pork in a non-reactive bowl or container, then pour over the brine and 3 litres (3 quarts) of water. Leave for 7–8 hours in the fridge. For the cider glaze, place the sugar and vinegar in a non-reactive saucepan and heat on the stovetop until the sugar has dissolved. Pour in the cider. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook until thick and syrupy. Reserve and keep warm. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place the lump of wood onto the ashen charcoal to start smoking. Lift the pork out of the brine and pat dry with paper towels. Rub the meat all over with some of the glaze, then place skin-side down on the grill in the direct heat zone. Cook for 3 minutes before turning and cooking for 3 minutes on the other side. Transfer the pork, skin-side down, to the indirect heat zone. Place a water tray in the direct heat zone. Baste the pork with the glaze, then close the lid (the temperature inside the barbecue should be about 170–175°C/340–350°F; regulate with the vents, if needed) and cook for 1 hour before turning and basting the pork again. Cook for another hour, then turn and baste again.
At this stage, check if the water tray needs topping up, and add a fresh batch of coals from the chimney starter and another lump of wood. Place the apples on the grill around the pork and cook with the lid closed for a further hour, then baste the pork again. Check to see if the pork is very tender – it should be soft enough to cut with a spoon. If not, keep cooking and basting for another hour or so. To be on the safe side, use the temperature probe to check the internal temperature of the pork, which should be around 75°C (167°F). Finish with a final glaze, then remove the pork from the barbecue and leave in a warm spot to rest for 20 minutes. The apples can come out at the same time as the pork, as long as they are nice and soft. Cut the pork into into four thick slices, and serve each one with an apple and a sprinkle of marjoram leaves. > Grilled crab with fennel, lemon and alioli> > You can buy pots of white and brown crabmeat in supermarkets, and they are certainly convenient. However, pristine meat picked straight from a fresh crab is a revelation. Sure, it's quite messy, but there's much fun to be had breaking and cracking the shells, then getting stuck into the sweet flesh. This is a dish of two halves: the legs and claws grilled; then the brown crabmeat (my favourite), mixed with raw fennel and grilled in the shell. Serve with plenty of flatbreads to mop up the juices. Absolutely delicious!> > Your fishmonger should be able to source live coastal crabs, such as brown and Dungeness. If a live crab is a bit too much, frozen crabs make a good substitute.
Serves 4 2 x 1.5kg (3¼ lb) brown or Dungeness crabs 100ml (generous 1/3 cup) extra virgin olive oil 2 tsp fennel seeds 1 garlic clove, finely sliced 2 unwaxed lemons 1 small fennel bulb, finely sliced sea salt and black pepper 1 quantityAlioli, to serve If you have live crabs, put them in the freezer for an hour – this will put them to sleep, so they can be dispatched as humanely as possible. On the stovetop, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil over high heat. Plunge the crabs into the boiling water and cook for 3 minutes before removing and plunging into cold water to stop the cooking process; the crabs will only be partly cooked at this stage. Drain the crabs, then place them on their backs on a chopping board. Remove the triangular flap from their base and then insert your thumb or a rounded knife into this same spot and prise off the top of the crab shell (carapace). Remove the feathery gills and any intestine – you just want to keep the creamy brown crabmeat. Break off the claws and legs and discard the central body. Crack each claw and leg with the heel of a knife or a claw cracker and each of the legs. Be careful not to smash them completely – you just want to crack the shell and expose the meat. Now you are ready to grill.
Light the barbecue and set for direct cooking. Pour the olive oil into a small saucepan and add the fennel seeds, garlic and the zest and juice of one of the lemons. Heat the pan on the barbecue until the oil starts to bubble, then cook for 2 minutes before pouring into a bowl. Brush the shells of the crab legs, claws and the inside of the carapace with the fennel oil. Stuff the sliced raw fennel into the carapace, along with the brown crabmeat, some seasoning and another good drizzle of the fennel oil. Place all the crab parts on the grill and cook the legs for 2 minutes each side, and the claws for 3 minutes each side. Cook the carapace (without turning it!) for 5 minutes or until bubbling and the brown crabmeat is thickened and creamy. Serve all the crab bits together on a platter, along with the alioli, the remaining fennel oil and lemon quarters. > Pork shoulder cooked in milk with bay and cinnamon> > This old-fashioned and unusual Italian method of cooking meat is a real joy. As the meat slowly cooks, the aromatic milk boils down, mixing with the porky juices and creating delicious rich curds and its own sauce. Cooking this way requires some time, but once you've got it going you can just sit back and wait, in anticipation of a good feed. Creamy white polenta with fennel seeds and chilli is my favourite accompaniment here.
Serves 4–6 You'll also need 3 lumps of hardwood, a chimney starter and a good, sturdy ovenproof pot or casserole large enough to hold the big lump of pork 1 x 3kg (6½lb) pork shoulder, bone in and skin on 2 quantitiesBrine for white meat about 4L (4qt) full-cream (whole) milk 8 bay leaves 2 cinnamon sticks Pour the brine over the pork in a non-reactive container, then cover and leave to cure in the fridge for 3 hours. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place 2 lumps of wood onto the coals to start smoking. Remove the pork from the brine and dry with paper towels. Place the pork, skin-side up, in the ovenproof pot and pour in some of the milk – leave the top of the pork protruding, so it will caramelize during the cooking. Drop the bay leaves and cinnamon sticks into the milk around the pork, then place the pot in the direct heat zone and bring the milk to the boil. Move the pot to the indirect heat zone and close the lid of the barbecue (the temperature inside the barbecue should be about 170°C/340°F; regulate with the vents, if needed). Cook for 2 hours, then check on it: the milk should be bubbling away and separating into curds, and the pork skin should have taken on a golden hue. Top up the pot with some more milk, still leaving the top of the pork uncovered. At this stage, you'll also need to top up the coals with a fresh batch from the chimney starter and add another lump of wood. Close the lid again and cook for a further 1½ hours.
When it's done, the pork meat should be soft and tender, and the skin browned and crisp. To be on the safe side, use the temperature probe to check the internal temperature, which should be around 75°C (167°F). If the pork needs longer, top up the milk again and keep cooking until it's ready. Remove from the barbecue and leave to rest for 30 minutes. Using a ladle, skim off the fat from the milky-curd sauce and transfer the meat to a serving platter. Taste the sauce and season, if necessary, then whisk to break up the curds (the sauce will look separated, but this is as it should be).> Grilled free-range chicken with yogurt, lemon and North-African spices> > Over the past couple of years I've really got into the flavours of North Africa and the Levant – something to do with being challenged by the different, unusual and exciting spices, I suspect. They are also delicious, and I love spending time travelling in and experiencing this part of the world.> > Spatchcocking a chicken is by far the best way to go when cooking it on a barbecue – it's quicker and the chicken cooks much more evenly. Your butcher should be able to this for you. Start this recipe a day ahead.
Serves 4 You'll also need a lump of hardwood, a water tray and a temperature probe 1 large (2kg [4½lb]) free-range chicken, spatchcocked 1 quantityBrine for white meat 1½ Tbsp fennel seeds 1 Tbsp coriander seeds 2 tsp cumin seeds 2 Tbsp smoked paprika 2 Tbsp sumac 1½ Tbsp ground cumin 1 Tbsp dried chilli flakes 100g (½ cup) Greek yogurt 3 unwaxed lemons 75ml (scant 1/3 cup) extra virgin olive oil sea salt and black pepper extra yogurt, seasoned with salt, pepper and sumac, to serve Pour the brine into a non-reactive container big enough to hold the chicken. Immerse the chicken in the brine and pour in enough cold water to cover. Leave in the fridge for 7 hours, or overnight. Remove the chicken from the brine, pat dry with paper towels and place in a bowl or on a tray. Using a pestle and mortar, roughly crush all the spices (if you don't have a pestle and mortar, improvise with a small bowl and the end of a rolling pin), then mix with the yogurt. Squeeze the juice of one of the lemons over the chicken, then smother it with the yogurt-spice mix and the olive oil. Cover and leave to marinate in the fridge for at least 2 hours.
Set and light a barbecue for direct/indirect cooking. Place the lump of wood onto the ashen charcoal to start smoking. Season the chicken with salt and pepper and place it, skin-side down, on the grill in the direct heat zone. Cook for 5 minutes to char the skin, then turn it over a cook for a further 5 minutes before moving it to the indirect heat zone. Position the water tray in the direct heat zone and close the lid of the barbecue. Cook the chicken for about 1 hour (the temperature inside the barbecue should be about 170–175°C/340–350°F; regulate with the vents, if needed). To be on the safe side, use the temperature probe to check the internal temperature of the chicken, which should be around 75°C (167°F). Remove the chicken from the grill and leave to rest in a warm spot for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, cut the remaining lemons in half and place them, cut-side down, in the direct heat zone. Cook for 20 minutes until soft and caramelized. Pour the resting juices from the chicken into the extra seasoned yogurt and stir through. Serve the chicken with the yogurt and the caramelized lemon halves for squeezing over.> Paella> > Done well, this is really the perfect party dish – and cooking paella on the barbecue adds that extra touch of smoke and flame to proceedings. It's highly visual, exciting, mouthwateringly delicious, and everyone can serve themselves with as much or as little as they like. I'm a big fan of meat and fish combinations – and the paella traditionalists I've spoken to would argue it's not paella unless there's a mix – but feel free to make this your own by increasing the quantities of whichever seafood or meat you like and leaving out the rest. A proper paella pan makes all the difference, of course, and the good news is they're cheap and widely available.
Serves about 6 You'll also need a paella pan or large ovenproof frying pan and some oak, apple or birch wood chips 250g (9oz) spicy cooking chorizo, skin removed, roughly chopped 2 large chicken thighs or rabbit legs, boned, cut into bite-size pieces 1 large onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 small red (bell) peppers, deseeded and finely chopped 1 chilli, finely chopped 1 Tbsp smoked paprika 500g (18oz) paella [ie Bomba] or Calasparra short-grain rice 1 tsp saffron threads, infused in 1 tsp warm water 200ml (generous ¾ cup) dry white wine 200ml (generous ¾ cup) dry sherry, such as fino 200ml (generous ¾ cup) good fish or chicken stock, ideally homemade 500g (18oz) plum tomatoes, finely chopped (with skin and seeds) 200g (7oz) mussels, cleaned and debearded 200g (7oz) squid, cleaned and cut into bite-size pieces 6 large tiger prawns (shrimp), shell on juice of 1 lemon ½ bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped, stalks and all olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper Light the barbecue and set for direct cooking.