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Set your paella pan in the direct heat zone of the barbecue and add a lug of olive oil. Throw in the chorizo and cook for 2 minutes, stirring briskly, to release its paprika-infused juices. Add the chicken or rabbit and brown on each side before adding the onion, garlic, peppers and chilli. Cook for 5–6 minutes, stirring as you go, until everything has softened but not coloured. Now add the paprika, rice and saffron and stir everything together well. Season with salt and pepper, then stir in the wine, sherry, stock and tomatoes and leave to cook for 12 minutes without stirring. The idea with paella is that you let the rice in contact with the base and sides of the pan lightly caramelize – unlike a risotto. Now stir the mussels into the rice and place the squid and prawns on top of the rice, without stirring them through. If the rice is looking too dry, add a little water at this stage. Throw a handful of wood chips onto the coals, then close the lid of the barbecue and cook the paella for 8 minutes, by which time the rice and seafood should be just cooked through. Squeeze over some lemon juice, sprinkle over the parsley and serve.> Barbecued pheasant in lardo with porcini, crispy garlic and truffle butter> > This is like autumn on a plate: pheasant, one of the finest and most eagerly anticipated of the game birds, served with mushrooms and some decadent black truffle, all evocative of the season's earthy charms.> > Game is generally very lean, since it is constantly on the move and truly wild. With this in mind, it's important to take care when cooking it to prevent the meat drying out. Here, the pheasant is brined and then wrapped in lardo (cured pork back fat) to baste and lubricate the meat during its time on the grill.
Serves 4 You'll also need a lump of hardwood and a temperature probe 1 quantityBrine for red meat 2 oven-ready pheasants 50g (2oz) lardo or pancetta, finely sliced into strips 200g (7oz) porcini mushrooms, or other large meaty mushrooms, such as king oyster, cleaned and thickly sliced 2 garlic cloves, very finely sliced olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper For the truffle butter 100g (½ cup) unsalted butter, softened to room temperature 1 Tbsp white truffle oil 3g ( 1/8 oz) black truffle, finely chopped – optional, but delicious! Submerge the pheasants in the brine in a non-reactive container and leave in the fridge for 2½ hours. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place the lump of wood on the ashen coals to start smoking. Make the truffle butter by mixing all the ingredients together and seasoning to taste. Lift the pheasants out of the brine and pat dry with paper towels. Drizzle the pheasants with olive oil and season all over with salt and pepper. Lay the strips of lardo out on a tray so they overlap and form two rectangles large enough to wrap around the birds. Spoon about a teaspoon of truffle butter onto the breast of each pheasant, then lay breast-side down in the middle of the lardo rectangle. Fold over the ends of the strips of lardo to seal, pressing carefully to 'mould' the fat to the birds, then transfer to the fridge and leave to firm up for 20 minutes.
Place the pheasants, breast-side up, on the grill in the indirect heat zone and close the lid (the temperature inside the barbecue should be about 170°C/ 340°F). Leave to cook for 25 minutes, then transfer to the direct heat zone, breast-side down, and cook each breast for 2–3 minutes to caramelize. Check the internal temperature: a temperature probe inserted into the leg should read about 60°C (140°F). Remove the pheasants from the barbecue, slather with plenty of truffle butter (but save some to cook the mushrooms!) and leave to rest in a warm spot for 10 minutes. Place a heavy-based frying pan on the grill in the direct heat zone and add the remaining truffle butter. When it's foaming, add the mushrooms and season well. Cook the mushrooms until tender and starting to caramelize, then add the garlic slices and continue to cook until the mushrooms and garlic are golden brown. Immediately remove from the heat and transfer the mushrooms and garlic to a serving platter. Pour the cooking juices from the pan over the pheasants.
Serve the pheasants whole on the platter with the mushrooms and garlic. Pour the buttery resting juices into a jug and serve on the side. > Having just cooked, tested and eaten all the recipes here, I think many could almost be stand-alone dishes. However, the original idea behind this chapter was – and still is, for the most part – that it would be great to serve one or more of these alongside the larger plates to share, in effect making a lovely family-style sharing meal that you might have for Sunday lunch or, if you're lucky, a few times a week. Anyway, these dishes are very simple to prepare, and as most of them require some kind of barbecue action – whether grilling, smoking or cooking over charcoal to infuse them with flavour – it makes sense to factor them into a bigger meal, so you're not lighting your barbecue just to cook some potatoes. Other dishes are simply cooked on the stovetop in your kitchen, but will still complement whatever else you're cooking on the barbecue. And if you want to incorporate some of these dishes into a small-plate tapas or mezze spread, then I think that would be fantastic too.
My recommendations are purely to get you started; it all comes down to what you want to do and experimenting to see what works. Oh, but there's one absolute must-have combination that really shouldn't be messed around with, in my humble opinion, and that's serving Smoked mashed potato with Hot-smoked pork belly with cider, apple and marjoram – that one's written in stone! > Cavolo nero gratin with cream and gorgonzola> > An indulgent side, if ever there was one, but so delicious. You can use any other seasonal cabbage for this, such as savoy, hispi or even Brussels sprouts. The chunky breadcrumbs add a great crunch. I like to cook and serve this in an ovenproof, terracotta pie dish. Serve with lamb, beef or pork. Serves 4 500g (18oz) cavolo nero, or other cabbage 250ml (generous 1 cup) double (heavy) cream 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 100g (3½oz) gorgonzola, or other creamy blue cheese 2 slices of day-old bread, crust removed olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper Trim any tough stalks from the cabbage and tear the leaves from the stems. Cook the leaves in boiling salted water on the stovetop for 3 minutes until just cooked and then rinse under the cold tap to refresh. Drain the leaves, squeezing out all the excess water, then chop roughly and reserve.
Pour the cream into a small saucepan and add the garlic. Place over medium heat on the stovetop and reduce by half – watch it carefully, as cream has a tendency to boil over! Transfer the cabbage to a pie or gratin dish and season well. Dot the gorgonzola in lumps among the cabbage, then pour over the reduced cream (including the sliced garlic). Place in the fridge to chill for at least 1 hour. Light the barbecue and set for indirect cooking. Pulse the bread to coarse, irregular crumbs in a food processor, then toss with a little olive oil, salt and pepper. Sprinkle over the top of the cabbage, then put the dish in the middle of the indirect heat zone of the barbecue and close the lid. Cook the gratin for 20 minutes, or until the cream is bubbling and the breadcrumbs are golden brown.> Olive-oil mash with slow-cooked garlic> > I've been making olive-oil-whipped mash for many years, so I thought I'd develop it with the addition of some slow-cooked, caramel-y garlic. If you get a taste for this, throw some garlic bulbs on the barbecue when you're doing other stuff and have them ready to use in the fridge, where they'll keep for at least a week.
Serves 4 1 large garlic bulb 1kg (2¼lb) Desiree potatoes, peeled 100ml (generous 1/3 cup) double (heavy) cream 50g (3½ Tbsp) diced unsalted butter, at room temperature 2 Tbsp good-quality extra virgin olive oil sea salt and black pepper Light the barbecue and set for indirect cooking. Wrap the garlic in foil and use long-handled tongs to nestle it in the coals. The garlic will take about 1 hour to become soft and tender. Remove and leave to cool slightly before unwrapping the foil, cutting the very top off the bulb and then squeezing the soft cloves of garlic out onto a chopping board. Chop to form a rough paste. Evenly dice the potatoes and cook slowly in a pan of simmering salted water on the stovetop, until nice and tender. Drain then return to the hot pan and let the potatoes steam-dry for a few minutes before pressing through a potato ricer or masher. Heat the cream in a small saucepan over medium heat to reduce by about a third before stirring into the mash, along with the butter. Finally, whisk in the olive oil and stir in the garlic paste. I really like garlic, so I add the lot, but you may like a little less. Season the mash and serve immediately.> Crispy artichokes with lemon and sage> > You can use either baby globe artichokes or larger ones for this recipe. To be honest, this could just as easily have made its appearance in the 'Tapas and small plates' chapter, as these artichokes are delicious on their own or as a salty snack with an aperitif. I love serving them with grilled fish as a take on good old fish and chips. Cook these either on your barbecue or on the stovetop.
Serves 4 8 baby globe artichokes or 4 regular ones,prepared and cooked plain (all-purpose) flour, for dusting olive oil, for deep-frying 16–20 sage leaves 1 lemon, cut into wedges sea salt and black pepper If cooking on the barbecue, light and set for direct/indirect cooking. Drain the cooked artichokes and leave to cool, then slice them very thinly lengthwise using a sharp knife. Dust with flour, ensuring the artichoke slices are completely coated. Heat a 3cm (1¼in) depth of olive oil in a medium saucepan until very hot, either in the direct heat zone of your barbecue or on the stovetop. Check the oil is hot enough by carefully, with a pair of tongs, dipping the corner of an artichoke slice into the oil: if it sizzles straightaway, the oil is ready. Quickly fry the sage leaves in the hot oil until crisp. Scoop them out with a slotted spoon and drain well on paper towels. Working in batches, gently slip the artichoke slices into the oil and cook until crisp and golden brown. Using a slotted spoon, remove from the oil and drain on paper towels.
Season the artichokes with salt and pepper, then scatter over the crispy sage leaves and serve with lemon wedges on the side.> Slow-cooked autumn roots with maple syrup> > Really you can use any root vegetables you have around for this but I'd avoid red beetroot, simply because they have a tendency to stain anything they're cooked with. Try to select roots of roughly the same size, or cut them down accordingly. These are perfect with a big roast, such as chicken or beef – just pop them on an hour or so before the roast will be ready. Alternatively, they can be cooked in advance and reheated. Serves 4–6 1.2kg (2¾lb) mixed root vegetables, such as carrots, swede (rutabaga), turnips, celeriac, parsnip 1 garlic bulb, cut in half 4 sprigs thyme 1 sprig rosemary 50g (3½ Tbsp) unsalted butter, diced 1 Tbsp maple syrup sea salt and black pepper Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Wash and peel the vegetables, then cut up as needed to make them all roughly the same size. Place the vegetables in a roasting tin, along with the garlic, thyme and rosemary. Dot the butter over the vegetables and season with salt and pepper.
Cover with foil, place in the indirect heat zone and close the lid of the barbecue. Cook for about 1 hour, then open the lid and check the vegetables – they should be tender and have started to caramelize and turn golden. If they are softening but not browning, remove the foil and transfer to the direct heat zone for a few minutes to speed up the process. Drizzle over the maple syrup and stir the vegetables to coat before serving.> Patatas aliñadas with piquillo peppers and wild garlic> > I've given this classic Spanish potato dish a twist by cooking the potatoes over charcoal first (as opposed to boiling them), before crushing them with smoked hot paprika and two different peppers: raw green for freshness, and piquillo for smoky-sweetness. Wild garlic leaves are in season for only a few weeks of the year, at the start of spring. They're delicious and fresh-tasting, adding a different type of garlicky kick, but don't worry if they're not around – you can use some young new season's or 'wet' garlic instead.
Serves 4 600g (21oz) Charlotte, Pink Fir Apple or other waxy potatoes, cleaned but skins on 80g (3oz) piquillo peppers, roughly chopped 1 small green (bell) pepper, deseeded and finely chopped small handful of wild garlic (ramsons) leaves, chopped, or 3 'wet' garlic cloves, finely sliced 2 tsp smoked hot paprika 2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp red wine vinegar sea salt and black pepper Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place the potatoes on the grill in the centre of the indirect cooking zone and close the lid of the barbecue. Cook the potatoes for 45 minutes or until the skins have crisped and lightly charred and the flesh is soft and tender. Transfer the potatoes to a bowl, cover with cling film and leave to steam for 10 minutes. Roughly crush the potatoes, still with their skins on, with the back of a fork, then add both kinds of peppers, along with the garlic, paprika, oil and vinegar. Mix well, crushing the potatoes a little more with the fork to ensure their flesh is exposed to all the flavours. Season well, then cover and leave to marinate at room temperature for an hour before serving.> Smoked peppers, shallots and tomatoes with oregano> > This is simply a selection of grilled peppers, firm-fleshed tomatoes and sweet shallots that's perfect with my Florentine-style steak. Use plenty of oak wood chips if you want to create a super-smokiness. I tend to make a good amount of this and store it in jars in the fridge, as the flavour only improves over time – just transfer the marinated vegetables to Kilner-style jars, then seal and keep in the fridge for up to 4 weeks.
Serves 4–6 You'll also need some oak chips, if you want an extra-smoky flavour 3 medium red (bell) peppers 3 medium yellow (bell) peppers 3 banana shallots, cut in half, skin intact 3 plum tomatoes, cut in half 3 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar 2 tsp oregano leaves Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. If you want to boost the wood-smoke flavour, sprinkle a handful of oak chips over the charcoal. Place the whole peppers on the grill in the indirect heat zone, along with the shallots, skin-side down. Place the tomatoes, skin-side down, in the direct heat zone. Close the lid of the barbecue and cook for 5 minutes before turning all the vegetables over and adding another handful of wood chips. Close the lid and cook for 5–6 minutes or until the peppers and shallots have started to soften and the tomatoes have caramelized. Remove the tomatoes from the grill and set aside. Continue to cook the peppers and shallots until they are soft. Transfer the peppers to a bowl, cover with cling film and leave to steam for 10 minutes. Peel off the skins and discard the seeds, then slice the peppers into rough strips. Peel the shallots and cut each one into 3 or 4 pieces. Place the peppers, shallots and tomatoes in a bowl and add the olive oil, vinegar and oregano. Stir gently to coat the vegetables in the oil and vinegar, then leave to marinate in the fridge for at least 4 hours.
Bring to room temperature before serving. > Barbecued mushrooms with rosemary, garlic and soy butter> > My favourite mushrooms for cooking on the barbecue are the meaty ones: porcini, king oyster or big flat portobellos. You need firm, sturdy fungi to stand up to the heat of the charcoal and develop a crust while staying juicy inside – rather like a good piece of meat. These would be heavenly with the Slow-cooked and charcoal-grilled beef rib. Serves 4 100g (½ cup) unsalted butter, softened 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 3 rosemary sprigs, leaves chopped, stalks reserved 8–12 portobello or flat-cap meaty mushrooms, stalks intact 2 tsp dark soy sauce olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place the butter in a bowl and stir through the garlic, chopped rosemary leaves and soy sauce, then season with pepper. Reserve at room temperature. Wipe the mushrooms with damp paper towels to clean, if necessary, and trim the very ends of the stalks. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
Dampen the rosemary stalks with a little water and throw them onto the charcoal. Place the mushrooms gill-side up on the grill in the direct heat zone and divide half the butter between the mushroom cups, then close the lid of the barbecue. Cook for 5 minutes, then check to see if the mushrooms are cooked through; this will depend on their size – larger ones may need another minute or so. Transfer the cooked mushrooms to the perimeter of the indirect heat zone. Divide the remaining butter evenly between them and leave for a minute or two to let the butter melt before serving.> Italian-style seasonal greens with garlic, chilli and lemon> > This is actually one of my favourites: a selection of vibrant seasonal greens tossed in good olive oil with a kick of garlic and chilli and a burst of lemon. You can vary the greens, but spinach, sprouting broccoli, chard and kale make for an interesting and delicious mix. Serve this hot, as the Italians do, or cold as a salad. Serves 4 500g (18oz) mixed seasonal greens, such as cavolo nero, kale, chard, turnip tops, sprouting broccoli
ice 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 red chillies, deseeded and thinly sliced finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon 50ml (3½ Tbsp) extra virgin olive oil – if serving as a salad olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper On the stovetop, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Check through the greens and trim any stalks as necessary. If you are using broccoli, cut the stalks into thin-ish strips that will cook in the same time as the leafy greens. Fill a sink or large bowl with iced water, ready for refreshing the vegetables after blanching. In two batches, plunge the vegetables into the boiling water and cook for 2–3 minutes, then use tongs or a strainer to transfer them to the iced water. When the greens have completely cooled, drain well, squeezing gently to extract any excess water. If you are making the cold salad, place the greens in a bowl with the garlic, chilli, lemon zest and juice, and season well. Drizzle in the extra virgin olive oil and toss before serving. If you are serving the greens hot, heat a large sauté pan over low heat and add a lug of olive oil. Add the garlic and chilli and cook slowly for a minute or so to soften. Add the greens, stirring well to coat in the oil and heat through without crisping or colouring the leaves. Season, then stir in the lemon zest and juice. Serve immediately.> Charcoal-grilled chicory with pomegranate molasses> > I find chicory (or Belgian endive) to be much-underrated. It is generally used raw in salads –which is no bad thing – but cooked over charcoal, it is a revelation. I think it's something to do with the layers of leaves being exposed to charring and the natural bitterness being tempered. Sweet, sticky pomegranate molasses is the perfect accompaniment.
Serves 4 4 heads red chicory 3 heads white chicory 2 Tbsp pomegranate molasses olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper Light the barbecue and set for direct cooking. Cut each head of chicory into quarters lengthwise. The yellow chicory will likely be bigger with a thicker stalk, so trim any excess stalk before cooking. Rub the chicory with olive oil, season well and then place on the grill in the direct heat zone and cook for 3 minutes on each side to soften and char. Don't be afraid to blacken the leaves here – chicory really benefits from this depth of flavour. When the chicory has softened, you should be able to splay out the leaves like a fan. Cook like this for a further 2 minutes on each side. Drizzle with the pomegranate molasses before serving. > Charcoal-baked potato and fresh herb gnocchi> > A great way to cook baked potatoes is to nestle them among the coals you're using to barbecue something else until the skin crisps and the flesh is soft and tender. This slow charcoal-baking really intensifies the potato flavour, and gives gnocchi made from them a distinctive smokiness. With plenty of fresh herbs and a final tossing with smoked butter or pan-frying in olive oil, these gnocchi make a great accompaniment to lighter dishes.
Serves 4 A plastic piping bag is handy here 1kg (2¼lb) Desiree potatoes 200g (1½ cups) plain (all-purpose) flour, sifted 2 eggs, lightly beaten 2 Tbsp chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, dill, mint, tarragon 50g (3½ Tbsp)Smoked butter, or a lug of olive oil sea salt and black pepper Light the barbecue and set for direct cooking. Prick the potatoes all over with a fork, then wrap them individually in foil, adding a good sprinkle of sea salt. Nestle the potatoes among the hot coals and close the lid of the barbecue. Cook for 1½ hours or until the potatoes are tender and soft – the skin will be crisp, so insert a small knife into the flesh to check it's done. Remove the potatoes from the barbecue and when they are just cool enough to handle, scoop out the potato flesh and press it through a potato ricer or masher into a bowl. (Eat the potato skins as a snack with some alioli – delicious!) While the potato flesh is still warm, mix in the sifted flour and eggs to form a dough. The consistency should be similar to bread dough; if it feels too wet, add a touch more flour. Season with salt and pepper and mix in the herbs.
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil on the stovetop, then turn down to a simmer. Take a small piece of gnocchi dough and drop it into the water. After a minute or so, it should rise to the surface, which indicates it is cooked. Scoop it out with a slotted spoon and taste, then adjust the seasoning of the rest of the gnocchi dough if needed. Dust a tray or chopping board with flour. If you're using a piping bag, scrape the dough into it, then cut off the end to a make an opening about the width of a thumb and pipe the dough onto the tray or board in two or three lengths. Alternatively, just roll the dough by hand. Cut the lengths of dough into 2cm (¾in) gnocchi with a sharp knife, then slide them all into the simmering water to cook. When the gnocchi have all risen to the surface, drain well. Either transfer to a bowl and toss with the smoked butter and a little more seasoning, or spread them out on a tray to cool before dusting with a little flour and pan-frying over medium heat in olive oil until golden brown.> Wood-roasted potatoes with thyme and garlic> > These potatoes are simmered with lots of garlic and thyme to infuse them with flavour, then roasted over hot charcoal and oak wood chips with more garlic and thyme. This wonderful dish is brilliant straight from the grill with barbecued or roast chicken.
Serves 4 You'll also need some beech or oak chips, if you want an extra-smoky flavour 800g (1¾lb) Charlotte, Pink Fir Apple or other waxy potatoes 1 garlic bulb, cut in half, plus 4 extra garlic cloves, peeled 6 sprigs thyme 50g (3½ Tbsp) unsalted butter olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper Place the potatoes in a medium saucepan, cover with cold water and add the halved garlic bulb and 3 of the thyme sprigs. Bring to the boil on the stovetop and cook until tender. Drain well and leave to cool, then cut the cooled potatoes into bite-size chunks. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Throw a good handful of wood chips onto the coals, if you like. Take a roasting tin or ovenproof frying pan large enough to hold the potatoes and place in the direct heat zone. Add a good lug of olive oil and, when the oil starts to smoke, add the potatoes and season well. Toss the potatoes in the oil to coat, then close the lid of the barbecue. Cook for 4 minutes before tossing the potatoes again and adding another handful of wood chips, if using. Cook for a further 3 minutes, then add the butter, extra garlic cloves and the leaves from the remaining 3 thyme sprigs. Toss the potatoes again, then transfer to the indirect heat zone and cook for 2 minutes, or until they are crisp and golden brown.
Serve the potatoes immediately, spooning over any butter, garlic and thyme left in the tin or pan. > Seasonal salad of heritage carrots, organic leaves, radish and cumin dressing> > I love using heritage carrots. Their interesting shapes and colours make for an exciting presentation, and cooking the carrots in a foil parcel helps retain all their natural sweetness and flavour. You can of course use bunched organic carrots or any other tasty organic variety. The cumin dressing is an unusual but highly successful pairing. Serves 4 1.2kg (2¾lb) mixed heritage or bunched organic carrots, stalks removed (save any feathery tops for the salad), washed 50g (3½ Tbsp) unsalted butter 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1½ Tbsp cumin seeds 50g (2oz) French Breakfast or White Icicle radishes, trimmed 2 handfuls of mixed salad leaves, washed 1½ Tbsp blossom honey 1½ Tbsp red wine vinegar 1½ Tbsp extra virgin olive oil olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Spread out a double layer of foil large enough to enclose the carrots. Place the carrots on the foil, then dot with the butter and add a drizzle of olive oil. Scatter over the garlic and 1 tablespoon of the cumin seeds, then season well before wrapping up the foil to make a well-sealed parcel.
Using long-handled tongs, nestle the parcel into the coals and cook for about 35–45 minutes, depending on the thickness of the carrots. When they are ready, they should be nice and tender. Carefully remove the parcel from the barbecue, then leave to rest and cool for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, use a pestle and mortar or spice grinder to coarsely crush the remaining cumin seeds. Finely slice the radishes and place in a bowl, along with the salad leaves. Cut the carrots into small chunks or slices and add to the bowl. Whisk together the honey, vinegar and extra virgin olive oil to make a dressing, then stir in the crushed cumin seeds. Pour the dressing over the salad and toss well, mixing in any carrot tops. Season before serving.> Roasted buttermilk parsnips with manchego and rosemary> > Parsnips are one of my favourite root vegetables, as they're incredibly versatile and delicious. This is a take on _poutine_ , the French-Canadian mélange of chips with grilled cheese and other bits and bobs, but I've given it a Spanish twist with manchego. The real revelation, though, is cooking the parsnips in buttermilk – not only does it give the parsnips a rich, slightly acidic flavour, but also the curds separate and turn into nuggets of deliciousness when roasted on the barbecue. A final flourish of truffle honey might be considered an indulgent step too far by some. I disagree.
Serves 4 600g (1lb 5oz) parsnips, peeled 400ml (1¾ cups) buttermilk 400ml (1¾ cups) full-cream (whole) milk 40g (½ cup) grated manchego cheese 2 tsp finely chopped rosemary leaves 4 Tbsp honey, ideally truffle honey olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper Cut the parsnips into long thin strips about the size of French fries. Place the parsnip 'chips' in a medium saucepan and pour over the buttermilk and milk. Add some salt, then place the pan over medium heat on the stovetop. Bring to the boil, then turn down to a simmer and cook until the parsnips are nice and tender. Drain the parsnips and spread out on a tray or plate to cool – you'll notice little nuggets of curd on the parsnips that will cook to crispy delights! Light the barbecue and set for direct cooking. Place the parsnips in a roasting tin or large ovenproof frying pan – ideally one that will accommodate them in a single layer – then drizzle generously with olive oil and season well. Place the tin or pan on the barbecue and roast the parsnips for about 18–20 minutes, stirring occasionally to ensure they don't burn. You want the parsnips to be golden brown, and the curds deeper brown and crispy. If they need longer, close the lid of the barbecue and cook for a few more minutes, then check them again. When the parsnips are done, sprinkle over the cheese and rosemary and toss well, then give them anothe minute, with the lid closed, for the cheese to brown.
Remove the parsnips from the barbecue, immediately drizzle with the honey and sprinkle on a little more salt. I like to serve this in the tin or pan, so people can help themselves – just be sure to put a cloth underneath before putting it on the table! > Ember-cooked beetroot with horseradish pickle> > This is partially inspired by my Jewish grandmother, Ada, who passed away at the grand old age of 103. She came from a strict Jewish background, and she was a fantastic cook. One of her classics was a beetroot and horseradish pickle called _chraine_ , which she served with everything from fried fish to roasts and cold meats, and everything in-between. I've cooked the beetroot in embers to put my twist on it, and added some caraway, but the memory of Ada's repertoire lives on! Serves 4 (makes about 475ml/ 2 cups) 3 medium beetroot, washed and stalks trimmed 1 tsp caraway seeds 1 x 7.5cm (3in) piece fresh horseradish, peeled and roughly chopped – or more if you like it really hot and punchy! 1 garlic clove, roughly chopped
3 Tbsp Cabernet Sauvignon vinegar or other red wine vinegar 1½ tsp caster (superfine) sugar 2 tsp fine salt olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper Light the barbecue and set for direct cooking. Wrap the beetroot individually in foil, adding a splash of olive oil, some salt and pepper and a third of the caraway seeds to each one before sealing. When the charcoal is ashen grey, use long-handled tongs to carefully nestle the beetroot parcels into the coals, burying them so they are completely covered. Cook for about 1 hour or until tender – a knife inserted into the beetroot should glide in without any resistance. Leave the beetroot parcels to cool, then remove the foil and peel the skins; save the caraway seeds for the pickle blend. Roughly chop the beetroot, then transfer to a food processor, along with the horseradish, garlic, vinegar, sugar and salt, and the reserved roasted caraway seeds. Blend to a rough purée, then check the seasoning. Transfer to a Kilner-style jar, then seal and leave to marinate for at least 2 hours in the fridge before using. The pickle will continue to improve and develop over time and will keep for up to 4 weeks in the fridge.> Grilled courgettes with parmesan> > Courgettes are wonderful grilled on the barbecue. I find they can be a little watery and insipid at times, but cooking them slowly over charcoal intensifies the flavours and sweetens them to great effect. Grating over some parmesan a minute or so before they come off the grill adds a salty tang. This makes a great accompaniment to pork and chicken dishes.
Serves 4 4 medium courgettes (zucchini), cut in half lengthwise olive oil, for cooking 25g ( 1/3 cup) finely grated parmesan sea salt and black pepper good fruity extra virgin olive, for drizzling – optional Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Sprinkle the courgettes with a little salt and let them sit for 20 minutes to extract any bitter juices and excess liquid. Pat the courgettes dry, then drizzle them with olive oil and place, cut-side down, on the grill over the direct heat zone and char for 3 minutes, then turn over and cook for a further 3 minutes. The courgettes should be starting to soften by now. Transfer them to the middle of the indirect heat zone and close the lid of the barbecue. Cook for a further 3–4 minutes to soften further and caramelize – this will sweeten the courgettes and make them tastier. Just before they're ready, sprinkle over the cheese and briefly close the lid again to melt the cheese. Serve with a little more sea salt – and a good drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, if you like.> Slow-cooked carrots with cardamom and orange> > Over the years, I've found that carrots go particularly well with exotic spices, and this dish of colourful carrots caramelized slowly over the grill and basted with a cardamom-and-orange-infused butter is a case in point. If this doesn't transport you to somewhere far-flung, hot and exciting, then nothing will! I love serving this with Grilled free-range chicken with yogurt, lemon and North-African spices or Slow-cooked hogget shoulder.
Serves 4 100g (½ cup) unsalted butter 6 cardamom pods, crushed grated zest and juice of 1 large orange 800g (1¾ lb) mixed heritage or regular carrots olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Over low heat on the stovetop, melt the butter in a small saucepan, then add the cardamom pods, the orange zest and half of the orange juice. Cook the butter very slowly for 5 minutes to infuse it with the cardamom and orange, then remove from the heat and reserve in a warm spot. Wash the carrots and give them a little scrub if needed, but don't peel them. Rub with olive oil and season, then place the carrots on the grill in the direct heat zone. Cook for 5 minutes, turning regularly, until the carrots have charred and started to caramelize. Now brush the carrots all over with some of the infused butter and move them to the indirect heat zone. Cook for 4 minutes, then brush with more of the butter. Repeat twice more until the carrots are glazed, tender and nicely caramelized. Squeeze over the rest of the orange juice and serve straightaway.> Smoked mashed potato> > This wickedly naughty mash comes with the added bonus of smokiness from oak-smoked milk and cream – it works a treat and adds a natural sweetness to the potatoes. My favourite potato for mashing is the red-skinned Desiree as it has firm, creamy flesh that doesn't absorb too much water on cooking; Maris Piper makes a good substitute.
Serves 4 You'll also need a cold-smoking device and some oak chips 100ml (generous 1/3 cup) double (heavy) cream 75ml ( 1/3 cup) full-cream (whole) milk 600g (1lb 5oz) Desiree potatoes, peeled 50g (3½ Tbsp) unsalted butter, diced sea salt and white pepper Set up the cold-smoking device in the barbecue with the oak chips and get it going, then place the grill rack on top. Pour the cream and milk into a medium bowl, then place on the rack and close the lid and vent of the barbecue. Cold-smoke for 1 hour, then remove the bowl from the barbecue and leave to rest for 1 hour. Cut the potatoes into even chunks, then place in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Season with salt. Bring to the boil on the stovetop, then simmer until the potatoes are nice and tender. Drain, then return the potatoes to the hot pan and let them steam-dry for 2 minutes. Mash the potatoes or press through a potato ricer or masher into a bowl. Pour in the smoked cream and milk and stir in the butter. Season to taste, then serve immediately. > Creamy white polenta with fennel seeds and chilli> > A heart-warming bowl of smooth creamy polenta infused with aromatic fennel seeds and spiked with chilli, this cries out to be paired with something braised or slow-cooked. It's the ultimate Italian-style, winter comfort food. If you prefer, you can use yellow or instant polenta – just remember to adjust the cooking time accordingly.
Serves 4–6 750–900ml (3¼–4 cups) full-cream (whole) milk 250g (1½ cups) white polenta 1 Tbsp fennel seeds ½ fresh red chilli, finely chopped ¼ tsp dried chilli flakes 30g (½ cup) finely grated parmesan 25g (1½ Tbsp) unsalted butter olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper Pour 750ml (3¼ cups) of the milk into a medium saucepan and season. Place over medium heat on the stovetop and bring to the boil, then pour in the polenta in a steady steam and whisk until fully incorporated. Turn the heat down to low and cook slowly for about 30 minutes, stirring regularly. While the polenta is cooking, heat a lug of olive oil in a heavy-based frying pan and slowly fry the fennel seeds, fresh chilli and chilli flakes for 2–3 minutes, just to release their natural oils. When the polenta is nearly ready, whisk in the cheese and butter, along with the fennel and chilli oil. Check the seasoning and adjust as necessary. If the polenta seems too thick, whisk in the rest of the milk. Serve immediately. > Admittedly, barbecues aren't generally associated with desserts, but all the more reason to show you what you can do.
When I decided to write this book, I talked to a few of my friends and colleagues about it and, happily, everyone thought it was a great idea. However, one subject that kept cropping up was desserts – or puddings, as I still like to call them. It seemed like a bit of a cop-out to just tack a list of sweet treats on to the end of the book that had no connection to barbecuing. So the only thing to do was create some delicious, mouth-watering puddings that involved the lick of an open flame or the aroma of smoke. I hope this puts the doubters firmly back in their place! Most things you can do in an oven you can do on the barbecue, given a bit of know-how. Softer fruit, such as strawberries, figs and plums, work particularly well cooked directly over hot charcoal, as their natural sugars caramelize into jammy heaven. Harder fruit, such as apples and pears, require a little longer on the barbecue or in the coals but benefit all the more for that; wrapping them in a protective foil jacket while they slowly bake shields the fruit from the fiery heat while also helping them to cook more evenly.
I urge you to try the smoked-milk ice cream, which was inspired by one of my food jaunts to the Spanish Basque Country, where I had a memorable meal at Asador Etxebarri. The chef there, Victor Arguinzoniz, is a genius, producing refined grilled food that is consistently sublime. The puddings are always seasonal, made by treating the very best local produce very simply, with just a little twist of smokiness to enhance, rather than mask, its taste. The chocolate recipes proved really interesting: I've discovered that cocoa butter takes on smokiness really well. However, the resulting complexity of flavour is difficult to sum up in words, so I'm afraid you'll just have to get cooking and eating – you'll soon understand what I mean! In case you develop a taste for smoke with your chocolate, I've also included a recipe for cold-smoking your own chocolate, so you can experiment with using it in other recipes, or just have a bar or two around to munch on. It's dangerously addictive stuff. All the recipes in this section are straightforward to prepare and cook. There are no perplexing techniques; just simple cooking and fantastic flavours. It may have become somewhat of a cliché now, but it's still so very true: when you have fantastic ingredients, you don't need to mess around with them – let them sing.
> Chargrilled pineapple with yogurt mousse and pistachio praline> > There's nothing like pineapple to transport you to exotic climes and holidays in the sun. Here, the fruit's naturally sweet juices are caramelized over charcoal with the aid of a vanilla basting syrup. The yogurt mousse makes a delicious, fresh-tasting foil for the rich pineapple, and crunch comes from a scattering of praline flecked with green pistachios. Serves 4 1 medium pineapple For the yogurt mousse 2 gelatine leaves, soaked in cold water for about 5 minutes 350g (1½ cups) thick, Greek-style yogurt 50g (¼ cup) caster (superfine) sugar 200ml (generous ¾ cup) double (heavy) cream For the vanilla syrup 50g (¼ cup) caster (superfine) sugar 1 vanilla pod (bean), split For the pistachio praline 100g (½ cup) caster (superfine) sugar 50g ( 1/3 cup) roughly chopped pistachios Trim the top and bottom from the pineapple, then stand it upright on a board and use a long sharp knife to cut away the skin. Cut the pineapple into quarters lengthwise, then trim away the central core from each piece before cutting into 6 slices. Lay the slices on a paper-towel-lined tray or plate in the fridge for an hour to dry a little.
Next make the yogurt mousse. Drain the gelatine from the water and squeeze out any excess. In a small saucepan on the stovetop, gently heat 50g (¼ cup) of the yogurt until it is very warm (but don't let it get too hot or it may split), then whisk in the gelatine. When the gelatine has completely dissolved, transfer to a medium bowl and whisk in the sugar and the remaining yogurt. In a separate bowl, whip the cream to soft peaks, then fold this into the yogurt mix. Transfer to the fridge to set – this will take about 1 hour. For the vanilla syrup, place the sugar in a small saucepan with 3½ tablespoons water. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla pod and add to the pan, along with the pod. Bring to the boil on the stovetop, then let it simmer for a few minutes until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat and set aside. For the pistachio praline, lightly oil a baking sheet. Place the sugar in a small heavy-based saucepan with 3½ tablespoons water and cook over medium heat on the stovetop, shaking the pan every now and then until it melts into a caramel and turns a deep golden brown. Don't stir it, or the sugar might crystallize. Throw in the pistachio nuts and shake the pan to coat them in the caramel, then carefully pour onto the prepared sheet and leave to cool completely. Transfer the praline to a clean tea towel, then cover and bash with a rolling pin or the heel of a knife to break it up. Ideally, you want some irregular shards, along with some more finely crushed pieces.
Light the barbecue and set for direct cooking. Brush the pineapple slices with vanilla syrup, then place them directly on the grill and cook for 2 minutes to char before turning. Brush again with syrup and continue to cook and turn until the pineapple is evenly charred and very tender. Brush the grilled pineapple with the syrup once more to glaze, then serve it with the mousse and praline on top.> Cherry and almond tart> > This tart is great fun to make – and once you've mastered it, you've got a really versatile base to work with, varying the fruits with the seasons. Cherry and almond is a classic match, though, and this cries out for a glass of something sweet and strong, to wash it down with, such as a Frangelico or Amaretto.> > Sitting the tart on a soaked wooden plank to cook in the barbecue protects its base from burning. Serves 4 You'll also need a 20cm (8in) nonstick tart (flan) tin or frying pan, a lump of hardwood and a length of soaked wooden plank 1 quantitySweet pastry, at room temperature
125g (½ cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus extra for greasing 125g ( 2/3 cup) caster (superfine) sugar, plus extra for dusting 3 free-range eggs 125g (scant 1 cup) plain (all-purpose) flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting 220g (1¾ cups) cherries, pitted 125g (1¼ cups) ground almonds (almond meal) Grease the tin or pan with butter and dust with flour, then put in the fridge to chill. Place a large sheet of baking paper on a work surface and dust with sugar, then sit the pastry on top and cover with another sheet of baking paper. Roll out the pastry between the two sheets of paper to a thickness of about 3mm (1/8 in) and with a circumference large enough to line the tin with some overhang. Carefully transfer the pastry to the tin. Don't worry about any small holes or tears – just patch them up as best you can with a little of the excess overhanging pastry. Press the pastry into the base and sides of the tin, then prick the base all over with a fork. Cover the tart shell with a crumpled sheet of baking paper and refrigerate for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Make a frangipane by creaming the butter and sugar until light and fluffy (either using an electric mixer or by hand), then beat in the eggs one by one. Finally, fold in the flour and almonds until fully incorporated. Fill the lined tart shell with baking beans or uncooked rice, then blind bake for 10–15 minutes, or until the base and sides are cooked and crisp but still pale. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place the lump of wood to the side of the charcoal to start smoking. (You want the temperature inside the barbecue to be about 180–190°C/350–375°F; regulate with the vents and lid during the baking time, if needed.) Remove the tart shell from the oven, take out the paper and beans or rice and leave to cool for 10 minutes before cutting away the crust overhang with a small knife. Spoon the frangipane into the tart shell and dot the cherries on top. Wrap the base and sides of the tin in a double layer of foil to help buffer the fierce heat rising from the coals. Sit the tart on the plank, then transfer to the indirect heat zone and close the lid of the barbecue. Cook the tart for 35–40 minutes or until the crust has browned, the frangipane has just set (a skewer inserted in the centre should come out fairly clean) and the cherries have started to bleed their juices.
Remove the tart from the barbecue and leave to cool for an hour before serving. > Smoked-milk ice cream with seasonal berries> > This very unusual and intriguing recipe pairs smoky milk with berries of your choice. My particular favourites are blackberries and blueberries. I'm afraid there's a little trial and error involved when the milk meets the smoke. I tend to aim for a fairly faint background flavour that comes through at the end, as I feel that a strong, in-your-face smokiness can overwhelm sweeter things. Of course, it's all subjective, so have fun experimenting – just remember to allow time for the smoked milk to rest overnight. Serves 4 You'll also need a cold-smoking device and some wood dust 125g ( 2/3 cup) caster (superfine) sugar finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon 400g (14oz) mixed seasonal berries, such as blueberries, blackberries, small strawberries, raspberries, redcurrants For the smoked-milk ice cream 500ml (generous 2 cups) full-cream (whole) milk 15g (1 Tbsp) caster (superfine) sugar
70ml (5 Tbsp) condensed milk First make the smoked-milk ice cream. Set up the cold-smoking device in the barbecue with the wood dust and get it going. Pour the milk into a wide heatproof bowl or tray and place in the barbecue, then close the lid and vent and leave to cold-smoke for 1 hour. Cover the bowl of smoked milk, then chill in the fridge overnight to rest and balance. Next day, place the smoked milk and the sugar in a saucepan over low heat on the stovetop and carefully reduce by half – keep a close eye on it, as it can easily boil over. Pour into a bowl, then whisk in the condensed milk and leave to cool before transferring to an ice-cream machine and churning according to the manufacturer's instructions. (If you don't have an ice-cream machine, freeze the ice cream in a shallow container, whisking it every hour to break up the ice crystals until you are happy with the consistency.) When the ice cream is ready, place the sugar, lemon zest and juice, along with 125ml (½ cup) water, in a non-reactive saucepan and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and add all the berries, then cover the pan and leave for 15 minutes to macerate and cool slightly.
Divide the berries between the bowls and serve with a scoop of smoked-milk ice cream on top. Delicious!> Grilled strawberries with mascarpone and black pepper> > An unusual dessert maybe, but a really quick and delicious one. The spicy black pepper really heightens the sweetness of the strawberries. For the best flavour, buy local strawberries for this, and choose ones that aren't over-ripe. If they're too soft, you might end up with barbecued strawberry jam! Serves 4 250g (2½ cups) large strawberries 150g ( 2/3 cup) mascarpone 40g (¼ cup) icing (confectioners') sugar, plus extra for dusting about ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper 25ml (1½ Tbsp) balsamic vinegar Light the barbecue and set for direct cooking. Hull the strawberries and cut in half lengthwise. Spread them out on a tray or plate, cut-side up, and chill in the fridge for 20 minutes to dry the surface. Whisk the mascarpone with the icing sugar and a grinding or pinch of black pepper. Set aside in the fridge. Using a sieve or dredger, dust some icing sugar over the strawberries, then place them cut-side down on the grill. Cook for 4 minutes to char before carefully flipping them over and cooking for a further minute. The strawberries should still be a little firm, but the juices should have started bubbling from them.
Transfer the hot strawberries to a serving platter, drizzle over the balsamic vinegar and grind over 3 turns of the pepper mill or 2 pinches of black pepper. Leave the strawberries for 10 minutes to macerate and then serve along with the balsamic-strawberry juices and a dollop of the mascarpone.> Smoked-chocolate salami with shortbread, almonds and raisins> > This is my take on the chocolate 'salami' found across Italy and Portugal, which resembles – in looks only – the cured meat sausage of the same name. This keeps well in the fridge and is great brought out at the end of dinner, to be enjoyed with some coffee and a digestif. Makes a 700g (1lb 8oz) log that will serve about 10 people 250ml (generous 1 cup) double (heavy) cream 250g (9oz)Smoked bitter chocolate 30g (¼ cup) raisins, soaked in a little warm water for about 15 minutes 50g ( 1/3 cup) Marcona almonds or blanched almonds 100g (3½oz) good-quality all-butter shortbread biscuits Pour the cream into a small saucepan and bring to a simmer on the stovetop. Place the chocolate in a heatproof bowl and pour the cream over, then stir well until the chocolate has melted and the mixture is smooth and glossy.
Drain the raisins and add to the chocolate. Roughly chop the almonds and the shortbread and add these to the chocolate as well, mixing to fully incorporate. Transfer to the fridge and chill for about 40 minutes until the mixture has started to firm up and is malleable. On a work surface, lay out two large sheets of cling film. Spoon the mixture onto the centre of the cling film, then use your hands to shape it into a log. Fold both layers of the cling film over the log, then roll up as tightly as possible to create a tight, compact cylinder, without any gaps in the cling film. Tie the ends of the chocolate 'salami' with string and leave in the fridge for at least 1 hour to chill and rest. Bring the salami back to room temperature before slicing and then serving. > Smoky rice pudding with pomegranate molasses> > The perfect winter pudding, or indeed an indulgent breakfast! Rice pudding has its roots firmly in comfort-pudding territory, but sometimes it can be a little too stodgy. My version is quite light, and the pomegranate molasses adds a sweet-sour tang to cut through the sweet, milky pudding. I like to use Spanish Calasparra rice for a great, nutty texture – it's available in some supermarkets and online. But, failing that, a good-quality short-grain pudding rice will do well.
Serves 6 You'll also need a sturdy, heavy-based ovenproof saucepan or ceramic dish and a lump of hardwood 300g (1½ cups) Calasparra rice or short-grain pudding rice 1 vanilla pod (bean), split and seeds removed 2 cinnamon sticks zest of 1 orange, peeled off in fine strips zest of 1 lemon, peeled off in strips 175g (1 cup) caster (superfine) sugar 1.5L (6¼ cups) full-cream (whole) milk 2 Tbsp pomegranate molasses Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Add the lump of wood to the ashen charcoal to start smoking. Combine all the ingredients, except the pomegranate molasses, in the dish. Place in the indirect heat zone, close the lid of the barbecue and cook slowly for 30 minutes. Top up with about 200ml (¾ cup) of water and stir well before cooking for a further 30 minutes. When it is ready the pudding should be thick and creamy and the rice grains just tender. Serve the rice pudding immediately, drizzled with pomegranate molasses.> Barbecued apples with muscovado, raisins, pine nuts and clotted cream> > These are fantastic served directly from the barbecue in their foil jackets, but let them cool a bit first so you're not juggling them around! I like to cook these apples during the winter months – they're great for a bonfire-night or Thanksgiving gathering, especially with some hot, mulled cider to wash them down.
Serves 4 50ml (3½ Tbsp) sweet, syrupy sherry, such as Pedro Ximénez 50g ( 1/3 cup) raisins 100g (½ cup) dark muscovado sugar finely grated zest of 1 lemon 50g ( 1/3 cup) pine nuts 4 large Cox's Orange Pippin apples 25g (1½ Tbsp) unsalted butter 150g ( 2/3 cup) clotted (heavy) cream 30g (¼ cup) icing (confectioners') sugar, sifted Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Pour the sherry over the raisins, then mix in 75g (1/3 cup) of the muscovado sugar and the lemon zest. Lightly toast the pine nuts over a low heat in a small frying pan until golden brown. Leave to cool, then chop roughly and add to the raisin mixture. Remove the cores from the apples using a corer or small knife – you want to create a cavity right through the middle of the apple to stuff. Lay out 4 sheets of foil, each large enough to wrap an apple well, then sit an apple on each one. Stuff the cavities generously with the raisin mixture; if a little spills down the sides, that's fine. Top the apples with the remaining muscovado sugar and dot with the butter, then wrap them up tightly so they are well sealed.
Place the apples in the indirect heat zone and close the lid (the temperature inside the barbecue should be about 170°C/340°F). Cook for about 40 minutes, until the apples are soft to the touch, rotating them a couple of times to ensure they cook evenly. Remove from the barbecue and leave to cool for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk the clotted cream with the icing sugar to combine. Open the foil, top the apples with the sweetened cream and serve.> Smoky bitter-chocolate puddings with melting whipped cream> > This is my go-to dessert when indulgence is the order of the day. You can't help being seduced by molten chocolate with a light smoky edge, served with some cooling rich cream. There are always oohs and ahhs when these are served – and to think you cooked them on the barbecue too! Serves 4 You'll also need 4 ramekins or other ovenproof dishes, 5cm (2in) deep and 9cm (3½in) in diameter 75g (2¾oz)Smoked bitter chocolate 60g (¼ cup) unsalted butter, plus extra for the ramekins 2 whole free-range eggs
2 free-range egg yolks 70g ( 1/3 cup) caster (superfine) sugar, plus extra for dusting the ramekins 30g (scant ¼ cup) plain (all-purpose) flour, sifted 150g ( 2/3 cup) double (heavy) cream Grease the inside of each ramekin with the extra butter, then dust with the extra sugar. Place the chocolate and butter in a large heatproof bowl and melt slowly over a pan of simmering water, making sure the base of the bowl isn't touching the water. Once melted, leave to cool slightly. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, egg yolks and sugar until light, fluffy and pale (an electric whisk is ideal for this), then fold into the melted chocolate mixture. Finally, fold in the flour as gently as possible. Divide the mixture evenly between the prepared ramekins, then chill in the fridge for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, whip the cream to just beyond soft peaks, so it will hold its shape when spooned on top of the hot puddings. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking (the temperature inside the barbecue should be about 180°C/350°F). Place the puddings in the indirect heat zone, close the lid and cook for 7 minutes. The puddings should have risen like a soufflé, have a light crust and still be molten in the centre.
Use a small spoon to carefully break the crust on top, then add a dollop of the whipped cream and serve immediately. > Charcoal-grilled peaches with lavender honey and mascarpone ice cream> > This is a real favourite of mine, inspired by summer travels in northern Spain. Charred, smoky peaches with a light, cooling ice cream and the fragrance of lavender make for a beautiful, contrasting combination. Serves 4 You'll also need a handful of wood chips 4 firm peaches 100ml ( 1/3 cup) lavender honey 1 tsp dried lavender flowers – optional For the mascarpone ice cream 150ml ( 2/3 cup) double (heavy) cream 250ml (generous 1 cup) full-cream (whole) milk 5 free-range egg yolks 75g ( 1/3 cup) caster (superfine) sugar 100g (scant ½ cup) mascarpone First make the mascarpone ice cream. Pour the cream and milk into a saucepan and bring to a simmer on the stovetop. In a heatproof bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until pale and fluffy. Pour over a third of the cream and milk, whisking to incorporate, then slowly whisk in the remainder. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly until smooth and thickened – when it's ready, the custard should coat the back of a spoon. Pour into a bowl and leave to cool for 5 minutes before whisking in the mascarpone.
Transfer to an ice-cream machine and churn according to the manufacturer's instructions. (If you don't have an ice-cream machine, freeze the ice cream in a shallow container, whisking it every hour to break up the ice crystals, until you are happy with the consistency.) Cut the peaches in half, remove the stone and then cut each half again so you get four round slices from each peach. Lay the slices on a paper-towel-lined tray or plate in the fridge for 30 minutes to dry a little. Light the barbecue and set for direct cooking. Throw the wood chips onto the coals, then lay the peach slices on the grill and close the lid of the barbecue. Cook the peach slices for 5 minutes before turning them over and cooking for a further 3 minutes – they should be soft and well charred. Meanwhile, take the ice cream from the freezer to let it soften slightly. Transfer the peaches to a serving platter, drizzle over the honey and sprinkle with the lavender flowers, if you're using them, then serve with the ice cream.> Caramelized oranges with orange flower yogurt and honeycomb> > When they are in season, I like to use ruby-tinged blood oranges for this, but you can use any oranges with a good flavour. Orange flower water is a by-product of the distillation of fresh orange blossom for its essential oil. Used for many years in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine, just a few intense drops add an exotic, almost otherworldly taste and aroma. This makes more honeycomb than you need here, but it will keep for a few days and is great added to any dessert to give it a sweet-caramel crunch, or eaten as a snack.
Serves 4 4 small oranges, such as blood oranges, or 2 large navel oranges 200g (1 cup) caster (superfine) sugar, plus extra for dusting 150g (¾ cup) thick Greek yogurt 1 tsp orange flower water For the honeycomb 100g (½ cup) caster (superfine) sugar 35g (4 tsp) liquid glucose 20g (3 tsp) honey 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) First make the honeycomb. Lightly grease a baking sheet. Place the sugar, glucose, honey and a tablespoon of water in a medium-sized saucepan and cook over high heat on the stovetop until the mixture turns golden brown. Immediately add the bicarbonate of soda and give it three sharp whisks – the honeycomb will rapidly expand and rise up like an erupting volcano. When this happens, give it another quick whisk then remove the pan from the heat and pour the frothing honeycomb onto the prepared sheet. Leave to settle and cool completely. The honeycomb will keep for up to a week in an airtight container (but don't put it in the fridge, or it will lose its crunch). Light the barbecue and set for direct cooking.
Slice the top and bottom off each orange, then sit it on a chopping board. Using a sharp paring knife, carefully cut away all the skin and pith from the oranges, then slice each one into 4 even rounds. Dust with sugar, then place on the grill and cook for 3 minutes either side until charred and tender. Meanwhile, place the sugar and 200ml (generous ¾ cup) of water in a large non-stick frying pan. Heat on the barbecue, without stirring, until you have a deep-brown caramel. Carefully transfer the oranges to the pan and move it to the edge of the barbecue to cook slowly for 5 minutes or until the oranges are syrupy, soft and delicious. Remove from the heat but leave the oranges to cool in the syrup. Whisk the yogurt with the orange flower water and serve with the oranges. Drizzle with some of the syrup and strew some chunks of honeycomb over the top.> Walnut and coffee cake with salted caramel and clotted cream> > The flavours and textures in this dessert tick all the boxes for me and work incredibly well together. Who doesn't like salted caramel?! You'll need to monitor the temperature of the barbecue quite closely and use the top vents to regulate the heat as necessary.
Serves about 8 You'll also need a 22cm (8¾in) loaf pan, a lump of hardwood and a length of soaked wooden plank 2 Tbsp good-quality instant coffee 100g (¾ cup) walnut halves 225g (1 cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature 225g (1 cup, firmly packed) soft brown sugar 4 free-range eggs, lightly beaten 225g (1¾ cups) plain (all-purpose) flour 3 tsp baking powder pinch of salt 100g (½ cup) clotted (heavy) cream 30g (3½ Tbsp) icing (confectioners') sugar 1 quantitySalted caramel Mix the coffee with a splash of boiling water to form a thick syrup, then leave to cool. Place the walnut halves in a small frying pan and lightly toast over low–medium heat on the stovetop until they smell nutty. Allow to cool slightly, then roughly chop. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking (you want the temperature inside the barbecue to be a fairly constant 210–220°C/410–425°F). Grease the loaf pan and line the base with baking paper. Either using an electric mixer or by hand, cream together the butter and sugar until light and airy. Gradually add the beaten eggs, mixing constantly, until incorporated. Sift in the flour, baking powder and salt, then gently fold in with a spoon.
Finally, fold in the coffee syrup and two-thirds of the walnuts. Spoon the mixture into the prepared pan carefully and cleanly – try to avoid getting any drips on the side of the pan, as this can affect the cooking of the cake. Place the lump of hardwood to the side of the ashen coals to start smoking. Wrap a double layer of foil around the bottom half of the pan to help the fierce heat rising from the coals. Place the pan on the plank, then transfer to the indirect heat zone and close the lid of the barbecue. Cook the cake for 1 hour and 10 minutes, monitoring the heat as you go: the temperature should be about 210–220°C (410–425°F), but will fall to around 160°C (325°F) towards the end of the cooking time. This is fine – in fact, it finishes the cake nicely. Check that the cake is done by inserting a thin knife into the centre; it should come out fairly clean – a few crumbs of cake mix residue is absolutely fine. Remove the cake from the barbecue and cool in the pan for 10 minutes before turning out onto a wire rack and leaving for 30 minutes to cool completely.
Meanwhile, whisk the cream with the icing sugar. Cut the cake horizontally through the middle and spoon in the clotted cream. Sandwich the two halves together, then pour over as much of the salted caramel as you like and sprinkle over the remaining walnuts. Serve immediately.> Caramelized fig tart with cinnamon ice cream> > A tarte Tatin by any other name, this uses sweet jammy figs and dark, rich muscovado sugar. There's plenty of good-quality, readymade puff pastry out there – just make sure it's the all-butter variety, so it will be properly flaky and rich. Serves 4–6 You'll also need a medium-size non-stick frying pan and a lump of hardwood 1 sheet ready-rolled puff pastry 20g (1 Tbsp) cold unsalted butter, thinly sliced 80g ( 1/3 cup) dark muscovado (brown) sugar 6 black figs, cut in half 1 cinnamon stick finely grated zest of ½ lemon 1 free-range egg, lightly beaten For the cinnamon ice cream 250ml (generous 1 cup) full-cream (whole) milk 250ml (generous 1 cup) double (heavy) cream 1 cinnamon stick
½ tsp ground cinnamon 8 free-range egg yolks 125g ( 2/3 cup) caster (superfine) sugar First make the ice cream. Place the milk, cream, cinnamon stick and ground cinnamon in a saucepan and bring slowly to the boil on the stovetop. Simmer for 5 minutes, then leave to cool for 5 minutes before discarding the cinnamon stick. Meanwhile, in a heatproof bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until pale and fluffy. Pour over a third of the cinnamon-infused milk and cream, whisking to incorporate, then slowly whisk in the remainder. Pour back into the pan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until smooth and thickened – the custard should coat the back of a spoon. Transfer to an ice-cream machine and churn according to the manufacturer's instructions. (If you don't have an ice-cream machine, freeze the ice cream in a shallow container, whisking it every hour to break up the ice crystals, until you are happy with the consistency.) Light and set a barbecue for direct/indirect cooking and place the lump of wood onto the ashen coals to start smoking.
On a sheet of baking paper, roll out the puff pastry into a rough circle about 3mm (1/8 in) thick. Prick the pastry all over with a fork, then chill in the fridge for 30 minutes. Lay the sliced butter in the pan and sprinkle over the sugar. Arrange the figs on top, cut-side down, pressing them down a little so they are snug in the pan. Insert the cinnamon stick among the figs and grate over the lemon zest. Set the pan of figs on the grill in the direct heat zone and close the lid of the barbecue. Cook for 8 minutes or until the sugar has turned a deep caramel colour and the juices have just started to bleed from the figs. Remove the pan from the barbecue and leave to cool for 5 minutes before laying the pastry on top of the figs. Tuck the edges of the pastry down between the sides of the pan and the figs, then brush the top with the beaten egg. Place in the indirect heat zone of the barbecue and close the lid. Cook for 30 minutes until the pastry is crisp and deep golden brown. Remove from the barbecue and leave to cool for 5 minutes before carefully flipping the tart out onto a plate and serving hot with the cinnamon ice cream.> Buttermilk pannacotta with grilled rhubarb> > A lovely refreshing pudding, which puts a spin on the classic pannacotta by using sweet-acidic buttermilk and then adding some delicious, grilled, day-glow sticks of forced rhubarb. The charring of the rhubarb makes for a really interesting flavour contrast. If you can't get forced rhubarb, or it's out of season, then regular is fine – it will just need longer to cook.
Serves 4 You'll also need 4 plastic dariole or pudding moulds, or small teacups finely grated zest of ½ orange 100ml (generous 1/3 cup) orange juice 50g (¼ cup) dark brown sugar 200g (7oz) forced rhubarb, cut into 10cm (4in) lengths For the pannacotta 300ml (1¼ cups) double (heavy) cream 1 vanilla pod (bean), split and deseeded 70g ( 1/3 cup) caster (superfine) sugar 2½ sheets of leaf gelatine, soaked in cold water for about 5 minutes until softened 300ml (1¼ cups) buttermilk First make the pannacotta. Place the cream and the vanilla seeds and pod in a saucepan and slowly bring to the boil on the stovetop. Remove the pan from the heat, then whisk in the caster sugar and the squeezed-out gelatine leaves until completely dissolved. Leave to cool for 10 minutes, then remove and discard the vanilla pod and whisk in the buttermilk. Divide the cream evenly between the moulds and place in the fridge to set for at least 3 hours. Light the barbecue and set for direct cooking. Place the orange zest, juice and brown sugar in a small saucepan. Bring to the boil on the stovetop and simmer for 5 minutes until syrupy.
Brush the rhubarb with the syrup, then place directly on the grill over the coals. Grill for 3 minutes, then turn over and brush again with the syrup. Cook for another 3 minutes until just starting to soften. Transfer to a tray or plate and pour over the remaining syrup. To turn out the pannacottas, either flash a blowtorch around the outside of the moulds or quickly run hot water over them. Turn out onto individual plates, then serve with the rhubarb and the remaining syrup spooned over. Alternatively, serve in teacups if that's what you've used.> Caramel-glazed pears with Vin Santo ice cream> > A spin on the Tuscan classic of pears poached in Vin Santo: whole pears cooked in caramel to soften, then glazed to golden perfection. I like to use Conference or Packham pears in early autumn as they hold their shape well through cooking. The ice cream can be made in the freezer without a machine, if required. Serves 4 4 large pears 150g (¾ cup) caster (superfine) sugar For the Vin Santo ice cream
250ml (generous 1 cup) double (heavy) cream 250ml (generous 1 cup) full-cream (whole) milk 8 free-range egg yolks 125g ( 2/3 cup) caster (superfine) sugar 75ml ( 1/3 cup) Vin Santo First make the Vin Santo ice cream. Pour the cream and milk into a saucepan and bring to a simmer on the stovetop. In a heatproof bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until pale and fluffy. Pour over a third of the cream and milk, whisking to incorporate, then slowly whisk in the remainder. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly until smooth and thickened – when it's ready, the custard should coat the back of a spoon. Transfer to an ice-cream machine and churn according to the manufacturer's instructions. If you don't have an ice-cream machine, freeze the ice cream in a shallow container, whisking it every hour to break up the ice crystals, until you are happy with the consistency. When the ice cream is almost ready, churn (or whisk) in the Vin Santo to incorporate and freeze for at least 30 minutes before serving.
Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Peel the pears, cut them in half lengthwise and then carefully cut out the core with a small knife. Pour the sugar into a medium frying pan, along with 150ml (2/3 cup) of water and place in the direct heat zone of the barbecue. Bring to the boil and cook until you have a golden-brown caramel. Carefully lay the pear halves, cut-side down, in the caramel, then move the pan to the indirect heat zone and close the lid of the barbecue. Cook the pear halves for 6 minutes, then turn them over and top up the pan with a tablespoon or two of water. Close the lid again and cook the pears for a further 5 minutes, then baste the pears with the caramel. When they are ready, they should be glazed with the caramel and quite tender. Serve the pears in bowls with the caramel spooned over and the ice cream scooped on top.> Goat's cheesecakes and slow-cooked plums with sherry> > Everybody loves a cheesecake, right? This one is very light and uses an easy no-cook method. The goat's cheese adds an unusual grassy tang and is really delicious – just make sure it's a very light, soft-textured one. As the plums are cooked nice and slowly to the side of the charcoal, doused with sherry and infused with some wood smoke along the way, you can put them on just as you're finishing cooking your main-course dishes. Couldn't be easier.
Serves 6 You'll also need six 4.5cm (1¾in) ring moulds or individual tart tins, and a lump of hardwood 6 Victoria plums, cut in half and stones removed 100ml ( 1/3 cup plus 1 Tbsp) Pedro Ximénez (PX) sherry For the biscuit base 150g (5½ oz) amaretti biscuits 85g (3oz) digestive biscuits (graham crackers) 85g ( 1/3 cup) unsalted butter, melted For the cheesecake mixture 85ml ( 1/3 cup) double (heavy) cream 150g ( 2/3 cup) cream cheese 75g ( 1/3 cup) mascarpone 60g (¼ cup) caprini fresco or other soft, light, rindless goat's cheese 75g ( 1/3 cup) caster (superfine) sugar seeds from ½ vanilla pod (bean) For the biscuit base, crush the amaretto and digestive biscuits under a clean tea towel with a rolling pin, or pulse in a food processor; you want the crumbs to be imperfect and fairly rustic, though, so go easy with the food processor. Place the crumbs in a bowl and mix in the butter. Place the ring moulds on a tray and divide the crumb mixture between them pressing it down with the back of a spoon so the bases are firm and level. Transfer to the fridge and chill for an hour.
For the cheesecake, whip the cream in a bowl until it forms stiff peaks. In a separate bowl, whisk together all the other ingredients – an electric mixer is good for this – until smooth and fully incorporated. Using a spatula or large metal spoon gently fold in the whipped cream. Spoon the cheesecake mixture into the moulds, tapping the outside of each ring to make sure the mixture settles into the mould, leaving no air gaps. Place the cheesecakes in the fridge for a couple of hours to set. Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place the lump of hardwood onto the ashen coals to smoke. Place the plum halves, skin-side down, on the grill in the indirect heat zone of the barbecue and drizzle with some of the PX. Close the lid and cook for 10 minutes before drizzling with more PX and cooking for a further 10 minutes, still with the lid down. Finally, move the plums to the direct heat zone to char for 5 minutes, placing them skin-side up. Transfer to a tray or plate, drizzle over a little more PX and leave the plums to macerate for 20 minutes.
Carefully remove the cheesecakes from the moulds by warming the outside of the rings with a blowtorch or hot towel. Place on serving plates, along with the slow-cooked plums and syrupy PX juices.> Milk chocolate and grilled apricot tart> > It's a joyous occasion when fresh apricots arrive in our markets. These little amber stone fruits epitomize the balmy days of late summer. They really showcase what the power of the sun can do to a fruit – the best apricots come from the warmer Mediterranean climes, and they should still feel firm to the touch when you buy them. Serves about 6 You'll also need a 24cm (9½in) loose-based tart (flan) tin, two lumps of hardwood and a length of soaked wooden plank plain (all-purpose) flour, for dusting 1 quantitySweet pastry, at room temperature 300g (10½oz) good-quality milk chocolate buttons 200g (¾ cup) unsalted butter, melted, plus extra for greasing the tin 5 free-range eggs 50g (¼ cup) caster (superfine) sugar, plus extra for dusting 5 apricots, cut in half and stones removed
Grease the tart tin with butter and dust with flour, then put in the fridge to chill. Place a large sheet of non-stick baking paper on a work surface and dust with sugar, then sit the pastry on top and cover with another sheet of paper. Roll out the pastry between the sheets to a thickness of 3mm (1/8 in) and with a circumference large enough to line the tin with some overhang. Transfer the pastry to the tin. Don't worry about any small tears – patch them up with a little of the excess overhanging pastry. Press the pastry into the base and sides of the tin, then prick the base all over with a fork. Cover with a crumpled sheet of baking paper and refrigerate for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Fill the lined tart shell with baking beans or uncooked rice, then blind bake for 10–15 minutes, or until the pastry is cooked and crisp but still pale. Remove the tart shell from the oven, take out the paper and beans/rice and cool for 10 minutes before cutting away the crust overhang with a knife.
Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place the lumps of wood on the ashen charcoal to start smoking. For the chocolate filling, place the chocolate in a large heatproof bowl and melt over a pan of simmering water (make sure the base of the bowl isn't touching the water), then whisk in the melted butter. Using an electric mixer, whisk the eggs and sugar in a separate bowl until pale, light and fluffy, then fold into the melted chocolate a third at a time. Place the apricot halves, cut side down, on the grill in the direct heat zone of the barbecue and char for 3 minutes on each side. Arrange the apricots in the tart shell, then pour over the chocolate filling. Wrap the base and sides of the tin in 2 layers of foil to help buffer the fierce heat from the coals. Sit the tart on the plank, then transfer to the indirect heat zone and close the lid of the barbecue (you want the temperature inside to be about 200°C/400°F; regulate with the vents and lid during the baking time, if needed). Cook for 50 minutes or until the filling has just set – it will continue to cook in the residual heat after it has been removed from the barbecue.
Leave the tart to rest for at least 2 hours before transferring to a large plate and slicing to serve.> Grilled and barbecued autumn fruit with honey sabayon and thyme> > Autumn-time sees an abundance of delicious fruit to enjoy, such as apples, pears and quince. Because these are slightly more robust, they work particularly well grilled on the barbecue. The thyme may seem an unusual edition in a dessert recipe, but its fragrance goes brilliantly with the fruit and sweet honey sabayon. Serves 4 1 medium quince 1 large apple, such as Braeburn, Cox's Orange Pippin or Ruben 1 large pear, such as Packham, Comice or Anjou ½ lemon 2 plums, such as Victoria, halved and stoned 150ml ( 2/3 cup) runny honey ½ small bunch thyme 4 free-range egg yolks 50ml (2½ Tbsp) Marsala or sweet white wine Light the barbecue and set for direct cooking. Wrap the quince in foil. When the coals are ashen-grey, use long-handled tongs to carefully nestle the parcel into them, making sure it's fully covered with the coals and ash. Close the lid and leave for 40 minutes or until cooked.
Quarter the apple and pear, core them and squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over them, rubbing it over the cut surfaces to prevent them from turning brown. Spread out the apple, pear and plums on a large plate and place in the fridge for 20 minutes to dry them slightly. Pour half the honey and 5 sprigs of the thyme into a small saucepan, along with 2 tablespoons water. Bring to the boil over low–medium heat on the stovetop and simmer for 5 minutes to infuse, then set aside. Pick the leaves from the rest of the thyme, reserving the stalks for the barbecue. For the sabayon, whisk together the egg yolks, Marsala, thyme leaves and the remaining honey in a large heatproof bowl. Set the bowl over a pan of simmering water and whisk constantly (hand-held electric beaters are good for this) until the mixture thickens and increases in volume; it's important to keep whisking, so the mixture doesn't 'cook' on the base of the bowl, scrambling the egg yolks. When it's ready, the sabayon should be light, pale and airy. Reserve and keep warm.
Brush the apple, pear and plums with the thyme syrup. Throw the reserved thyme stalks onto the charcoal to smoke, place the fruit on the grill and close the lid of the barbecue. Cook for 5 minutes or until lightly charred, then turn over and brush with more thyme syrup. Cook the plums for a further 3 minutes, and the apple and pear for about 5 minutes, or until they are all soft and charred. Meanwhile, check that the quince is cooked through and tender – a knife should glide in without any resistance – then leave to cool for 5 minutes before removing the foil. Cut the quince into quarters and remove the core with a small knife or spoon, then drizzle the quince quarters with thyme syrup. If the skin of the fruit looks overly charred, just peel it off. Serve with the sabayon and any remaining thyme syrup. BASICS > Brines and cures> > Salting and brining are age-old processes that were used to preserve meat and fish in the days before refrigeration, as salt naturally stops bacteria from growing by dehydrating the cells in the proteins. We now mainly use this process to add intrinsic seasoning and flavour to whatever we are working with. Due to salt's dehydrating properties, it also changes the texture of proteins and makes them easier to cook when grilling or pan-roasting.> > Salting is an important part of the cold-smoking process, particularly if what you are cold-smoking won't be cooked afterwards.> > We usually dilute wet brines before using them for larger cuts, such as a whole chicken, so the meat can spend longer in the brine without becoming too salty. The recipes include diluting instructions where needed.> > Make sure any containers you use for brining are non-reactive – that is, not aluminium – as this can react with the brine and taint the meat.
Dry fish cure Makes about 500g (1lb 2oz) 250g (1¼ cups) coarse sea salt 250g (1¼ cups) caster (superfine) sugar finely grated zest ½ lemon ½ tsp fennel seeds, crushed ¼ tsp black peppercorns, crushed Mix everything together, then use to cure fish as per the recipe requirements. This can be stored in an airtight container for 3 months. Blackening rub Makes about 100g (3½oz) 80g (3oz) smoked hot paprika 2 cloves garlic, finely grated 1 tsp thyme leaves, finely chopped 1½ Tbsp dark muscovado (brown) sugar 2½ tsp coarse sea salt Mix everything together in a bowl. This will keep in an airtight container for 3 months. Brine for red meat – duck, lamb, beef, game Makes about 1L (4¼ cups) 100g (½ cup) coarse sea salt 50g (¼ cup) demerara (brown) sugar 1 Tbsp honey 2 bay leaves 8 black peppercorns 4 cloves Place all the ingredients in a medium non-reactive saucepan with 1 litre (4¼ cups) of water. Slowly bring to the boil, stirring as you go to dissolve the salt and sugar. Remove from the heat and allow to cool before using.
Brine for white meat – chicken and pork Makes about 1L (4¼ cups) 100g (½ cup) coarse sea salt 50g (¼ cup) caster (superfine) sugar zest of 1 lemon, peeled off in long strips 2 bay leaves 1 tsp coriander seeds 1 tsp fennel seeds Place all the ingredients in a medium non-reactive saucepan with 1 litre (4¼ cups) of water. Slowly bring to the boil, stirring as you go to dissolve the salt and sugar. Remove from the heat and allow to cool before using. Smoked salt Smoked salt is a fantastic condiment to have on hand for when you want to add a little smoky nuance and a crunch. I love it on grilled steaks. Makes about 250g (9oz) You'll also need 2 lumps of hardwood and a length of soaked wooden plank 250g (9oz) Maldon salt or other flaky sea salt Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place the lumps of wood onto the ashen coals to start smoking, and set the plank on the grill in the indirect heat zone. Spread the salt evenly over a baking sheet, then place on the plank and close the lid of the barbecue. Hot-smoke the salt for 1 hour or until it has turned a dark brown colour.
Remove from the barbecue and leave to cool before transferring the salt to a sealed container. The flavour of the smoked salt will improve and balance after 24 hours of resting time. This keeps very well! Smoked butter As this will keep well in the fridge for several weeks, even improving in flavour, I recommend you smoke two packs of butter at a time. You'll be surprised how quickly it gets used up! Makes 500g (about 1lb) You'll also need a cold-smoking device and some wood chips 500g (about 1lb) cold unsalted butter Set up the cold-smoking device in the barbecue with the wood chips and get it going. Dice the butter evenly and lay it out on a baking sheet in a single layer. Place the sheet on the rack in the barbecue, close the lid and vent and cold-smoke the butter for 1 hour. Transfer the butter to a container, cover and leave in the fridge for at least 2 hours before using. Chorizo ketchup Here is my spicy version of the classic tomato ketchup. The chorizo adds an interesting, smoky tang. This is great with burgers, breakfasts, grilled fish and just about everything else!
Makes about ½L (4¼ cups) ½ large red (bell) pepper, cored, deseeded and sliced ½ red onion, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 1 red chilli, finely chopped 150g (5½ oz) spicy cooking chorizo, peeled and finely diced ½ Tbsp ground cumin 1 Tbsp smoked hot paprika 750g (1lb 10oz) ripe plum tomatoes, cut into quarters 1 Tbsp tomato purée (paste) 50ml (3½ Tbsp) cider vinegar or white wine vinegar 50g (¼ cup) demerara (brown) sugar olive oil, for cooking sea salt and black pepper Light the barbecue and set for direct/indirect cooking. Place a saucepan on the barbecue in the direct heat zone and add a lug of olive oil. Add the pepper, onion, garlic and chilli and cook, stirring, for 7–8 minutes until softened. Now add the chorizo, cumin and paprika and cook, stirring, for 10 minute, or until the chorizo and spices are cooked and the natural fat from the chorizo has been released. Stir in the tomatoes, tomato purée, vinegar and sugar, then move the pan to the indirect heat zone and cook for about 1–1½ hours, stirring every so often, until the ketchup is rich and thick. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
The ketchup will keep for approximately 2 weeks in a sealed container or jar in the fridge. Alioli Alioli is simply a mayonnaise flavoured with garlic. This simple sauce is incredibly versatile and a great base for adding your favourite flavours – chopped fresh herbs, grain mustard, chilli, horseradish, you name it. Makes 200ml (about ¾ cup) 1 large free-range egg yolk ½ garlic clove, very finely chopped 1 small teaspoon Dijon mustard 100ml (generous 1/3 cup) vegetable oil 100ml (generous 1/3 cup) extra virgin olive oil white wine vinegar, to taste lemon juice, to taste sea salt and white pepper In a bowl, whisk the egg yolk with the garlic and mustard. Slowly add the oils, whisking constantly to emulsify. When all the oil has been added, season with salt and pepper and add vinegar and lemon juice to taste. Mojo verde This exotic salsa hails from the Canary Islands where the North-African influence on food and culture is prominent. I use this on most things but it's especially recommended on grilled meats – straight from the BBQ, the hot flesh of the meat absorbing the hot, piquant flavours of the salsa on contact.
Makes about 400ml (1¾ cups) 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley 1 small bunch coriander (cilantro) ½ bunch mint 1 garlic clove, peeled 1 tsp ground cumin 1 green chilli, deseeded 50ml (3½ Tbsp) red wine vinegar 120ml (½ cup) extra virgin olive oil sea salt and black pepper, for seasoning Place all the ingredients except the oil and seasoning into a food processor and start to process. Gradually pour in the oil until you have a thick green purée. Season to taste. Crunchy shallot and garlic salsa cruda This really simple salsa is an ace accompaniment to grilled meats and fish, adding texture, freshness and a punch of flavour. Makes 50–60g (about 4 Tbsp) 1 large banana shallot, or 2 medium-sized ones, finely chopped 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 Tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 Tbsp olive oil juice of ½ lemon sea salt and black pepper Just mix all the ingredients together, seasoning to taste and adding the lemon juice at the last minute. Sweet pastry My pastry stalwart, this recipe has been with me for many years. It's a classic and makes the best, crispest pastry for tarts.
Makes enough for one 20cm (8in) tart 250g (1¾ cups) plain (all-purpose) flour, plus extra for dusting 50g ( 1/3 cup) icing (confectioners') sugar pinch of salt 125g (½ cup) unsalted butter, cut into cubes 1 egg, lightly beaten 4 tsp full-cream (whole) milk Sift the flour, sugar and salt into a bowl, then add the butter and rub in to form rough crumbs. Add the egg and milk and mix to incorporate. Bring the dough together into a ball and dust lightly with flour, then wrap in cling film and chill for at least 30 minutes. Bring the pastry back to room temperature before rolling it out. Smoked bitter chocolate Smoked chocolate is a revelation, whether you eat it raw or melted and cooked into a pudding. At Ember Yard, we tried several methods and types of chocolate but found that those with a cocoa content of 70% or more works best. I've used pistols (buttons) as they are all the same size, so they absorb the smoke evenly. It's imperative that you leave the chocolate for 24 hours after smoking to allow the flavours to settle and balance.
Makes about 250g (9oz) You'll also need a cold-smoking device and some oak wood dust 250g (9oz) bitter chocolate (at least 70% cocoa) buttons, or a block cut into small, even-sized chunks Set up the cold-smoking device in the barbecue with the wood dust and get it going. Place the chocolate in a single layer on a baking sheet. Transfer to the barbecue, then close the lid and vent and cold-smoke the chocolate for 45 minutes. Transfer the chocolate to a container, seal and leave for 24 hours before using. Salted caramel Salted caramel has become a food fashion icon of late and is ubiquitous on menus up and down the land. I have to say I absolutely love the combination (call me a fashion victim if you like) of sweet, burnt caramel and salt. It's one of those very few flavours that send your taste buds to heaven and back. Makes about 350ml (1½ cups) 250g (1 1/3 cups) golden caster (superfine) sugar 120ml (½ cup) double (heavy) cream 25g (1½ Tbsp) unsalted butter ½ tsp sea salt flakes Place the sugar and 80ml (1/3 cup) water in a small heavy-based saucepan. Bring to the boil over medium heat and cook until you have a deep golden-brown syrup. Don't stir it, or the sugar might re-crystallize, but swirl the pan every so often.
Remove the pan from the heat and pour in the cream (be careful – it will spit). Stir to incorporate, then whisk in the butter and salt. This will keep for up to 2 weeks in the fridge. SUPPLIERS OF WOOD, CHARCOAL AND BARBECUES UK When sourcing charcoal, a good starting point is the fairly ubiquitous Big K Products, which is leaning more and more towards environmentally friendly products. As well as offering quality charcoal, including a new variety of sustainable lump-wood charcoal, they supply compressed cardboard/wax firelighters that are super ecofriendly. However, because their charcoal comes from woodlands across South America and Africa, it needs to be heavier so it doesn't break up in transit; this is achieved by distilling it of impurities to a lesser degree. The downside is that when you burn this charcoal on your grill, the remaining gases are released, which can adversely affect the charcoal flavour on your food. English woodland-produced charcoal is becoming more and more popular; some supermarkets have even started to stock it now. And by ordering from specialist suppliers online, it's very easy to get deliveries up and down the country.
bigk.co.uk Charcoal, lighters, lump wood londonlogco.com English charcoal, single species, lump wood – and advice hotsmoked.co.uk Large selection of smoking chips, ceramic grills, smokers and accessories amazon.co.uk Charcoal, lump wood, smoking chips, barbecues/ grills, accessories treewoodcharcoal.com British charcoal, lump wood and smoking chips weberbbq.co.uk Barbecues/grills, smokers and accessories drumbecue.co.uk Barbecues/grills, smokers, chimney starters biggreenegg.co.uk Barbecues/grills, charcoal, smoking chips US and Canada atbbq.com Barbecues/grills, charcoal, smoking chips, chimney starters mapleleafcharcoal.com Canadian maple and other lump wood, charcoal rockwoodcharcoal.com Charcoal from Missouri realmontanacharcoal.net Smoking wood and charcoal weber.com Barbecues/grills, smokers and accessories biggreenegg.com Barbecues/grills, charcoal, smoking chips amazon.com Charcoal, lump wood, smoking chips, barbecues/ grills, accessories INDEX A alioli grilled crab with fennel, lemon and alioli paprika-rubbed smoky quails with alioli
saffron alioli almonds: beetroot with blood orange, almonds and chard cherry and almond tart smoked-chocolate salami with shortbread, almonds and raisins anchovies: anchovy, garlic and rosemary pesto pizzette with sprouting broccoli, smoked anchovies, egg and oregano apples: barbecued apples hot-smoked pork belly with cider, apples and marjoram morcilla, apple and potato pancakes apricots: milk chocolate and grilled apricot tart artichokes: crispy artichokes with lemon and sage grilled baby artichokes with pine nut purée and poached eggs asparagus: smoky eggs with asparagus and sweet shallots on sourdough aubergines: lamb chops with smoky aubergine and salsa verde pizzette with tomato, aubergine, chilli and goat's cheese B beef: brine Ember Yard smoked burger Florentine-style steak marinated and grilled beef bavette slow-cooked and charcoal-grilled beef rib beetroot: beetroot with blood orange, almonds and chard ember-cooked beetroot blackberries, slow-cooked blackening rub booze and barbecues bottarga: cold-smoked sea bream with pomegranate, bottarga and coriander
bread: charcoal-grilled pancetta and sausage with fried morcilla sandwiches grilled sardines on toast brill: barbecued brill with seaweed butter brines and cures – broad beans: chargrilled duck breast with peas, broad beans and hot mint sauce 88 broccoli: pizzette with sprouting broccoli, smoked anchovies, egg and oregano 39 spatchcocked chicken with fig glaze, figs and sprouting broccoli burgers, Ember Yard smoked butter: jamón butter seaweed butter smoked butter , , soy butter truffle butter buttermilk: buttermilk dressing buttermilk pannacotta grilled buttermilk and chestnut pancakes roasted buttermilk parsnips vanilla-infused buttermilk butternut squash: cuttlefish with squash, nduja and marjoram hot-smoked butternut squash with ricotta and grape jam C cake, walnut and coffee cannellini beans, fennel and pork sausages with capers: salsa verde caramel: caramel-glazed pears salted caramel , carrots: seasonal salad of heritage carrots, organic leaves, radish and cumin dressing slow-cooked carrots with cardamom and orange
cavolo nero gratin charcoal – chard, beetroot with blood orange, almonds and cheese: cavolo nero gratin Ember Yard smoked burger grilled courgettes with Parmesan pizzette with nduja, pecorino and fennel pizzette with tomato, aubergine, chilli and goat's cheese roasted buttermilk parsnips with manchego slow-cooked blackberries with creamed sheep's cheese slow-cooked chicken legs with polenta, gorgonzola and oregano _see also_ ricotta cheesecake, goat's cherry and almond tart chestnuts: grilled buttermilk and chestnut pancakes chicken: brine grilled chicken with yogurt, lemon and North-African spices paella slow-cooked chicken legs with polenta, gorgonzola and oregano spatchcocked chicken with fig glaze, figs and sprouting broccoli chicory: charcoal-grilled chicory with pomegranate molasses chillies: chilli-spiked grilled mackerel creamy white polenta with fennel seeds and chilli Italian-style seasonal greens pizzette with tomato, aubergine, chilli and goat's cheese thyme-smoked mussels with samphire, fino and chilli
chocolate: milk chocolate and grilled apricot tart smoked bitter chocolate smoked-chocolate salami smoky bitter-chocolate puddings chorizo: baked eggs with chorizo chorizo ketchup , paella smoked and grilled chorizo cider: hot-smoked pork belly with cider, apples and marjoram cinnamon ice cream cod: smoked cod with white beans, clams and parsley coffee: walnut and coffee cake courgettes: grilled courgettes with Parmesan crab: grilled crab with fennel, lemon and alioli cuttlefish with squash, nduja and marjoram D duck: brine chargrilled duck breast with peas, broad beans and hot mint sauce honey-basted duck with fondant fennel E eggs: alioli baked eggs with chorizo, tomato, peppers and spinach charcoal-grilled pancetta and sausage with fried morcilla sandwiches and eggs grilled baby artichokes with pine nut purée and poached eggs pizzette with sprouting broccoli, smoked anchovies, egg and oregano smoky eggs with asparagus and sweet shallots on sourdough Ember Yard smoked burger F fennel: fennel and pork sausages with cannellini beans
grilled crab with fennel, lemon and alioli grilled fennel with goat's curd, honey and hazelnut picada grilled mackerel with fennel, yogurt and sumac salad honey-basted duck with fondant fennel pizzette with nduja, pecorino and fennel figs: caramelized fig tart granola with grilled black figs spatchcocked chicken with fig glaze and figs fish: dry fish cure _see also_ brill; mackerel, etc flatbreads: flatbreads with anchovy, garlic and rosemary pesto potato and honey flatbreads Florentine-style steak fruit, grilled and barbecued autumn G game, brine for garlic: alioli anchovy, garlic and rosemary pesto barbecued mushrooms with rosemary, garlic and soy butter barbecued pheasant in lardo with porcini, crispy garlic and truffle butter crunchy shallot and garlic salsa cruda Italian-style seasonal greens with garlic, chilli and lemon olive-oil mash with slow-cooked garlic wood-roasted potatoes with thyme and garlic gnocchi, charcoal-baked potato and fresh herb goat's curd, grilled fennel with granola with grilled black figs and vanilla-infused buttermilk
grape jam gremolata, horseradish H hazelnuts: honey and hazelnut picada herbs: charcoal-baked potato and fresh herb gnocchi mojo verde salsa verde hogget, slow-cooked honey: honey and hazelnut picada honey-basted duck honey sabayon honeycomb horseradish: horseradish gremolata horseradish pickle horseradish sauce I Ibérico presa with jamón butter ice cream: cinnamon ice cream mascarpone ice cream smoked-milk ice cream Vin Santo ice cream Italian-style seasonal greens J jam, grape jamón butter K ketchup, chorizo , L lamb: brine lamb chops with smoky aubergine marinated and roasted salt-marsh lamb leg with wild garlic pesto leeks: young leeks with romesco lemons: grilled free-range chicken with yogurt, lemon and North-African spices lemon pickle lobster: grilled lobster with smoked butter M mackerel: chilli-spiked grilled mackerel grilled mackerel with fennel, yogurt and sumac salad mascarpone: grilled strawberries with mascarpone and black pepper mascarpone ice cream milk: pork shoulder cooked in milk smoked-milk ice cream smoky rice pudding
mint sauce, hot mojo verde , morcilla: charcoal-grilled pancetta and sausage with fried morcilla sandwiches morcilla, apple and potato pancakes mousse, yogurt mushrooms: barbecued mushrooms barbecued pheasant in lardo with porcini scallops in their shells with wild mushrooms mussels, thyme-smoked N nduja: cuttlefish with squash, nduja and marjoram pizzette with nduja, pecorino and fennel O octopus: grilled octopus with mojo verde and peperonata oranges: beetroot with blood orange, almonds and chard caramelized oranges with orange flower yogurt and honeycomb P paella pancakes: grilled buttermilk and chestnut pancakes morcilla, apple and potato pancakes pancetta: charcoal-grilled pancetta and sausage with fried morcilla sandwiches grilled buttermilk and chestnut pancakes with pancetta pannacotta, buttermilk parsnips, roasted buttermilk pastry, sweet patatas aliñadas with piquillo peppers and wild garlic peaches, charcoal-grilled pears, caramel-glazed peas: chargrilled duck breast with peas and broad beans peppers: baked eggs with chorizo, tomato, peppers and spinach
patatas aliñadas with piquillo peppers and wild garlic peperonata smoked and grilled chorizo with roasted peppers smoked peppers, shallots and tomatoes with oregano pesto: anchovy, garlic and rosemary pesto wild garlic pesto pheasant: barbecued pheasant in lardo with porcini, crispy garlic and truffled butter picada, honey and hazelnut pickle, horseradish pide, Turkish pinchos morunos pine nuts: barbecued apples with muscovado, raisins, pine nuts and clotted cream grilled baby artichokes with pine nut purée pineapple: chargrilled pineapple with yogurt mousse and pistachio praline piquillo peppers, patatas aliñadas with pistachio praline pizzettes – polenta: creamy white polenta with fennel seeds and chilli slow-cooked chicken legs with polenta, gorgonzola and oregano pomegranate, cold-smoked sea bream with porcini: barbecued pheasant in lardo with porcini, crispy garlic and truffled butter pork: brine fennel and pork sausages with cannellini beans hot-smoked pork belly with cider, apples and marjoram pinchos morunos
pork shoulder cooked in milk roasted and grilled pork ribs with quince glaze potatoes: charcoal-baked potato and fresh herb gnocchi morcilla, apple and potato pancakes olive-oil mash with slow-cooked garlic patatas aliñadas potato and honey flatbreads smoked mashed potato wood-roasted potatoes with thyme and garlic praline, pistachio Q quails, paprika-rubbed smoky quince glaze, roasted and grilled pork ribs with R radishes: seasonal salad of heritage carrots, organic leaves, radish and cumin dressing rhubarb, buttermilk pannacotta with grilled rice: paella smoky rice pudding ricotta: hot-smoked butternut squash with ricotta and grape jam romesco, young leeks with rosemary: anchovy, garlic and rosemary pesto barbecued mushrooms with rosemary, garlic and soy butter roasted buttermilk parsnips with manchego and rosemary rubs, blackening S sabayon, honey salads: grilled mackerel with fennel, yogurt and sumac salad seasonal salad of heritage carrots, organic leaves, radish and cumin dressing salsa cruda, crunchy shallot and garlic
salsa verde salsas: mojo verde salt: dry fish cure smoked salt salted caramel , samphire: thyme-smoked mussels with samphire, fino and chilli sardines: grilled sardines on toast with tomatoes and basil sausages: charcoal-grilled pancetta and sausage with fried morcilla sandwiches fennel and pork sausages with cannellini beans scallops in their shells with wild mushrooms and horseradish gremolata sea bream: cold-smoked sea bream with pomegranate, bottarga and coriander salt-baked wild bream with orange and basil seaweed butter shallots: crunchy shallot and garlic salsa cruda shortbread, smoked-chocolate salami with smoking – spinach: baked eggs with chorizo, tomato, peppers and spinach chilli-spiked grilled mackerel with lemon pickle, young spinach and sumac strawberries: grilled strawberries with mascarpone and black pepper T tarts: caramelized fig tart cherry and almond tart milk chocolate and grilled apricot tart thyme-smoked mussels with samphire, fino and chilli tomatoes: baked eggs with chorizo, tomato, peppers and spinach
grilled sardines on toast with tomatoes and basil pizzette with tomato, aubergine, chilli and goat's cheese smoked peppers, shallots and tomatoes with oregano truffle butter Turkish pide V vegetables: slow-cooked autumn roots with maple syrup Vin Santo ice cream W walnut and coffee cake watermelon, smoky grilled white beans: smoked cod with white beans, clams and parsley wild garlic: patatas aliñadas with piquillo peppers and wild garlic wild garlic pesto wood , – Y yogurt: grilled free-range chicken with yogurt, lemon and North-African spices grilled mackerel with fennel, yogurt and sumac salad orange flower yogurt yogurt mousse ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This book couldn't have happened without the unfailing energy and enthusiasm of Jacques Fourie, my head chef at Ember Yard and an inspiration for this book. Jacques was also intrinsic in some of the beautiful recipes in this book. Always ready with a cup of green tea for me at 7.30am – a priority on recipe testing days – and managing to keep them coming, endlessly, whilst juggling one hundred recipes.
To my lovely wife Nykeeta, who puts up with all my foodie nonsense and is my biggest (constructive) critic and the best friend and partner a husband could want. Also chief recipe tester in our house, along with Piglet. I love you both dearly. Thanks to Simon Mullins, co-founder of Salt Yard Group. Thanks for the wine knowledge in these pages, the brilliant support and for allowing me to get on with this book. I thoroughly enjoy our working dynamic and look forward to more restaurant adventures alongside you. Mark Parr (Lord Logs) of London Log Company (londonlogco.com) who has supported this project (and Ember Yard) from Day One, not just with his amazing charcoal and wood, but with his vision, locations and endless enthusiasm. He's a great person to know in the world of charcoal and a lovely guy to boot. To the amazing team that helped get this project to the finishing line: Martine Carter at Sauce Management; Céline Hughes, Helen Lewis and Nikki Ellis and the team at Quadrille; Kris Kirkham for his brilliant photography and his love of a glass of rosé; Tamzin Ferdinando for her wonderful props; all my suppliers who supply the best produce in the UK, especially George at Rare Breed Meat Company, Brindisa, Deli Station, Direct Seafoods and Debono Foods.
Our PR team at Sauce: Jo, Nicky, Laura and Fran who have been intrinsic in our PR strategy. All my teams at the restaurant who have in some way or another helped in the process of this book and are always an inspiration. They say that you are only as good as your team and these words are very true indeed. Everything we do is a team effort. My mentors and great friends Jason Atherton, Stephen Terry and Mark Sargeant – fantastic chefs and even nicer people. I undoubtedly would not be where I am today or have written this book without your inspiration and influence. How you didn't kill me in the process I don't know. All our foodie friends and journalists who have helped us over the years and written such nice words. Finally, all our restaurant's customers who have been coming for years and continue to come back. We have such a loyal following and we so appreciate it. Publishing Director: Sarah Lavelle Creative Director: Helen Lewis Senior Editor: Céline Hughes Designer: Nicola Ellis Photographer: Kris Kirkham
Prop Stylist: Tamzin Ferdinando Illustrator: Martin Hargreaves Production: Vincent Smith, Stephen Lang First published in 2016 by Quadrille Publishing Pentagon House 52–54 Southwark Street London SE1 1UN www.quadrille.co.uk Quadrille is an imprint of Hardie Grant www.hardiegrant.com.au Text © 2016 Ben Tish All photography © 2016 Kris Kirkham Illustration © 2016 Martin Hargreaves Design and layout © 2016 Quadrille Publishing The rights of the author have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this book shall be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted by any means – electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise – without written permission from the publisher. Cataloguing in Publication Data: a catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. eISBN: 9781849498159 </s>
Gate of the Dead - David Gilman Start Reading About Gate of the Dead Character List Historical Notes About David Gilman Reviews About the Master of War Series Coming soon from David Gilman Table of Contents www.headofzeus.com Contents Cover Welcome Page Epigraph Character List Map Part 1: City of Spears Chapter 1 Chapter 2 Chapter 3 Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Chapter 6 Chapter 7 Chapter 8 Chapter 9 Chapter 10 Chapter 11 Chapter 12 Chapter 13 Chapter 14 Chapter 15 Chapter 16 Chapter 17 Chapter 18 Chapter 19 Chapter 20 Chapter 21 Chapter 22 Chapter 23 Chapter 24 Part 2: Tournament of Kings Chapter 25 Chapter 26 Chapter 27 Chapter 28 Chapter 29 Chapter 30 Chapter 31 Chapter 32 Part 3: The Terror Chapter 33 Chapter 34 Chapter 35 Chapter 36 Chapter 37 Chapter 38 Chapter 39 Part 4: Blood Oath Chapter 40 Chapter 41 Chapter 42 Chapter 43 Chapter 44 Chapter 45 Chapter 46 Chapter 47 Chapter 48 Chapter 49 Chapter 50 Chapter 51 Chapter 52 Historical Notes Acknowledgements About Gate of the Dead Reviews About David Gilman About the Master of War Series Coming soon from David Gilman An Invitation from the Publisher
Copyright...as skilled in war as any man could be, wonderful men at planning a battle and seizing the advantage, at scaling and assaulting towns and castles, as expert and experienced as you could ask for... Bascot de Mauléon, man-at-arms, relating the skills of men of the Free Companies to Jean Froissart, fourteenth-century French chronicler Character List Sir Thomas Blackstone Christiana, Lady Blackstone Henry: Blackstone and Christiana's son Agnes: Blackstone and Christiana's daughter Thomas Blackstone's men Sir Gilbert Killbere Gaillard: Blackstone's Norman captain Meulon: Blackstone's Norman captain John Jacob: Blackstone's captain Perinne: wall builder and soldier Elfred: master of archers and bowyer Will Longdon: centenar and veteran archer Jack Halfpenny: archer Robert Thurgood: archer German knights Werner von Lienhard Conrad von Groitsch Siegfried Mertens Gascon knights and men-at-arms Jean de Grailly: Captal de Buch, Gascon lord and English ally *Beyard: Jean de Grailly's captain Gaston Phoebus: Count of Foix
French knights John, Lord of Hangest: French protector of the French royal family at Meaux Loys de Chamby: French knight at the siege of Meaux Bascot de Mauléon: fought with the Captal in Prussia and then at Meaux Sir Marcel de Lorris: minor French lord, mentor to Henry Blackstone English noblemen, knights and squires Henry of Grosmont, Duke of Lancaster Ralph de Ferrers: English Captain of Calais 1358–61 Sir Gilbert Chastelleyn: knight of Edward III's royal household Stephen Cusington: Edward III's representative. Roger Hollings: a squire Samuel Cracknell: messenger, sergeant-at-arms. Lord Robert de Marcouf *Sir Robert de Montagu English rulers King Edward III of England Edward of Woodstock, Prince of Wales Isabella of France (Isabella the Fair), dowager Queen of England French rulers King John II (the Good) of France The Dauphin: the French King's son and heir The Duchess of Normandy: the Dauphin's wife Charles, King of Navarre: claimant to the French throne, King John's son-in-law Philip of Navarre: Charles of Navarre's brother.
Italian noblemen, knights, clerics, merchant and servants Galeazzo Visconti: ruler of Milan Bernabò Visconti: ruler of Milan Marquis de Montferrat: Piedmontese nobleman Pancio de Controne: physician to Edward III's father. Niccolò Torellini: Florentine priest Paolo: Torellini's servant Fra Stefano Caprini: Knight of the Tau Brother Bertrand: monk *Oliviero Dantini: silk merchant of Lucca English physician Master Lawrence of Canterbury: Queen Isabella's physician. Mayor of Meaux Jehan de Soulez Leader of the Jacquerie uprising Guillaume Cale Indicates fictional characters Map Part 1 City of Spears The screams echoing down the stone walls sounded as if souls were being cast into the devil's fire pit. Mercenaries hurled burning torches into buildings and cut down those who tried to escape. The town was aflame and its citizens had no chance of survival against the invaders who had descended from the mountains like a river of blood. The mixed force of German and Hungarian killers hurled aside the flimsy defences. Small knots of men tried to defend their homes but were overwhelmed. Some were hamstrung and forced to watch the violation and murder of their families. The horror made men beg for a quick death. None was given.
These humble townspeople had dared protest at their winter supplies being seized without payment by mercenaries returning to Milan through the mountain passes. As the column of troops made their slow progress home their commander had left men behind in Santa Marina. A lesson needed to be taught, so the slaughter began. The mercenaries took to the task as savagely as any battlefield barber-surgeon hacked off a gangrenous leg. No artisan or farmer could stand up to the might of these soldiers contracted by the Visconti, Lords of Milan, and there would be little chance for another mercenary force to oppose them. To the south of the town ran a broad river fed by the mountain snows. Cold, and in places deep, it formed a natural barrier to anyone attempting to relieve the stricken town. Men would have to traverse narrow mountain tracks into Santa Marina, and such an approach would be seen. No one would dare risk traversing goat paths by night. Except Thomas Blackstone and a hundred of his handpicked men.
* Five captains each had twenty men behind them; each group was led by a scout who trailed a hemp rope held by every man to guide them along different paths through the darkness. When daylight came they slept hidden among the boulders and scrub from which they could spy out where their route would take them that night. Step by stumbling step – tripping and cursing beneath their breath, ignoring the cuts and wounds to hands and legs – they finally reached the near bank of the river that skirted Santa Marina's southern edge on the third night, guided by the campfires of the thirty or more tents encamped between river and town. Beyond these mercenary billets the town still smouldered, and the dull crimson glow of deep-seated fires tinged the night sky. Shrieks still reverberated down the streets. There could be no more than about seventy men left in the town. The odds favoured Blackstone. 'Bollocks,' said John Jacob, Blackstone's English captain, as he lay in the grass peering across the river. 'Wet feet.'
'And arse,' said Sir Gilbert Killbere, who was at Blackstone's other shoulder. 'Sweet Jesus, Thomas, did you have to bring us this way? That's a hundred paces across if it's a yard.' He rolled onto his back and pulled his helmet free. The going had been hard enough up until now. He dragged a grubby paw over his grizzled stubble. Blackstone lay watching for shadows moving between the tents. There were few to be seen and he guessed that most of the killers would be in the town. The campfires burned brightly enough to cast their glow across the river. His attack would be exposed to anyone who came out of a tent and looked the wrong way. No matter how quickly his lightly armed men could move, a boulder-strewn river would take time to cross. 'The river won't flood for months. It'll be waist-deep at worst. Where's Will?' he said. There was a scuffle of movement behind them in the reeds that grew on the shore. 'Here,' answered Will Longdon. He belly-crawled closer and peered over the low bank. 'Ball-ache time, Sir Gilbert. That mountain water will be bloody cold,' he said.
'Aye, for short-arsed archers like you,' said the veteran knight. 'The fires will guide us in,' said Blackstone. 'Deploy your archers, Will. Three hundred yards downstream. That's the shallowest part and those who escape us will run for it come first light. Half the men there, half here. Snap shut like a wolf trap.' He looked down the line of men who lay on the embankment. Gaunt from lack of sleep, dirt-engrained faces, fists clutching sword, axe or mace ready for the slaughter. The firelight's glow caught their eyes. They looked frightening enough to scare the scales off a devil's imp. Without another word Blackstone clambered to his feet and, as one, the men followed. He waded into the shallows, finding what footing he could among the stones underfoot. The near-darkness made the crossing even more difficult but Blackstone and his men had forded more dangerous rivers in the past – times when French crossbowmen had loosed a sky full of quarrels down onto them – but still they had gone on and beaten their enemy. No man who had ever made that journey would think this to be anything more than an inconvenient, cold soaking. They would warm soon enough when they started to kill.
The gentle sloshing of men's feet soon gave way to silence as they waded waist-deep into the river and the sound of their passage was hushed by the water gurgling over the shallows. Blackstone glanced left and right at the ragged line of men who followed him. Spear and sword were used to steady themselves against the current. Once he was satisfied that they were all across, he pushed his way through the grass and reeds that gave them the final few moments of flimsy cover. The sixty fighting men slipped silently between the tents, quickly pulling back the flaps to see if any mercenaries slept. Blackstone and others ran on, ignoring the grunting cries of men who thought themselves safe in their blankets. The closer he got to the town, the louder the screams he heard. Blackstone ran into the first square. Bodies lay strewn: smashed heads, slit stomachs, dark streams of blood glistening on the cobbled surface; men, dogs, women and children – all had been put to the sword. A dozen soldiers taunted a man with their spear points as he crawled on all fours, a mass of entrails billowing below him. They jabbed and cut at him, inflicting ever more pain and misery. They guzzled wine from clay pots and laughed at the man's agony. Left and right, narrow alleys echoed with similar cries. Torches flickered here and there, their light throwing night demons up against the walls as the Visconti men heaved women from doorways and butchered children who ran screaming for their mother's skirts.
One of the soldiers half turned as he heard the sound of pounding boots. Thinking they were men from the tents coming into town to enjoy the slaughter, he grinned, but his leer gave way to a look of puzzlement as he squinted into the uncertain light at the charging, silent men. By the time he realized they were not his own his warning scream was too late. Blackstone's men fell on them with a suddenness that gave no time for defence. 'Left!' Blackstone ordered, moving around the men's bodies, running towards the sound in one of the alleys. The wounded townsman rose to his knees, bloodied hands holding his entrails, blinded eyes lifted to a bearded giant of a man, as tall and broad as Blackstone, a man he would never see and who swiftly cut his throat in an act of mercy. 'Meulon!' Blackstone shouted. 'Five men! Over there!' The throat-cutter looked quickly to where several men in another side street had turned towards them. The half-obscured killing in the square had alerted them but like their fallen comrades their moment of uncertainty lost them any advantage they might have had. They fumbled as they saw that the men who attacked looked more vicious than their own kind; fear made them falter. By the time they advanced against the intruders they were shoulder to shoulder in the narrow confines of the alleyway and no match for lunging spears followed by axe and sword blows.
Blackstone wore an open-faced bascinet and his men's clothing was little different from that of the men who had attacked and torched the town. Some wore greaves to protect their legs and pieces of armour on their shoulders and upper arms; all had a mail haubergeon beneath a jupon bearing Blackstone's coat of arms – a gauntleted fist grasping a sword blade like a crucifix – cinched at the waist with a belt from which hung a fighting axe and dagger. Halfway down another narrow passage a woman clawed and kicked against her attacker as a second man relieved himself against a wall, a burning torch in his free hand. He looked over his shoulder as the darkness from the alleyways seemed to move. He turned and pushed the torch forward and then felt the warmth flood against his leg. By the time he had dropped the torch and fumbled for his sword John Jacob had swung his blade in an upward arc and taken the man between the legs. The pain from his slashed genitals made him bend double, grasping the bloody mess, and another of Blackstone's men swung his axe down across the man's exposed neck. Blackstone rammed the soldier attacking the woman, throwing him off balance, then smashed Wolf Sword's pommel into his snarling mouth. Bones and teeth cracked, the man's head snapped back, and Killbere's sword lunge took him in the throat. Blackstone's men moved forward; all ignored the half-naked woman.